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Do you mean the Maintenance CD that came with the bike? Altho that's not very descriptive. i have one but I'm sure others is RSA have one (I'm in UK). I've never seen a manual that describes functions: are you sure it exists?

For the instrument rdgs, do you have a GS-911? If so, or if a mate has one, hook it up and see what the fault codes are. And reset them. That might do the trick. Disconnecting the battery is not enough to reset everything: the settings like odometer, km/miles etc stay even after battery out...

What do mean by your "hub lugs"?

I'm about to do mine. And either the manual or the BMW parts place advises you to buy the sea/cover as well. I bought the bearings from FAG, but the advice was nice. And be quite careful about the pre-load and "setting" the bearings by moving the handlebars. The manual is not explicit enough...

Hi guys, I'm about to replace my clutch. Is only 32,000km but I abused it in deep sand and mud. I bought a ceramic clutch from Sachs Engineering (via Touratech). My question, mainly for those who do their own maintenance: has anyone else reading this post replaced an HP2 clutch? Or a GS1200...

I have a slightly used disc at a price just for you! C'mon, you want it, Admit it.....

Mine has some wear and it IS loose enough to cause a clunk. If I go over a bump at slow speed and brake: clunk. If no brake, no clunk. I think the floating disc is a bit of a gimmick, at least for our bikes. More problems than advantage. Maybe for super bikes that go 400km/h...:-} I'm going to...

Big Dom, Yes I think you're right: from the fiche they look like just one piece. I have an after-market one and it's a floater. And yes, it did also worry ME when I noticed it was loose...dang!!!! Very loose. So I thought about tightening, and then thought a bit more and realized what the idea...

As it heats up under breaking the disc expands and the slack disappears. If there's no slack (i.e. not a floater) you start to really stress the disk rotor ring. It can crack or warp. If it warps you reduce the efficiency of braking and it will vibrate. Obviously non-floating designs work too...

Is strange. I have the HPN tank with relocated oil cooler. I ran mine down thru Syria, Jordan, Egypt and Sudan in pretty hot conditions: 50-55 Celsius frequently. And a mixture of fast highway and slow mud or sand slogging. And mine didn't overheat, got hot sure, but not maxed out. I have the...

And before you cut anything out you can do a simple test to confirm that the switch is indeed the issue. When you have it open, trace the wires from it and where you can access them, touch a wire or something and momentarily mimic the action of the switch; just bridge the wires like a switch...

I had exactly this problem. It's almost certainly the small switch that sits inside the multi-function unit that has failed. The same type of micro-switch is used elsewhere and is known to fail. And I'd hold off on the contact cleaner unless it's really good stuff and mean't to be used on...

My tank was a tight fit too. But I used some ratchet-type straps to pull it in. If you are clever where you wrap them round then you can pull it in. It's plastic so it will deform. If you try to force it with a big shove it resists. But a steady pull eases it in. If you really struggle I think...

That's a very good price: ZAR 2,295 I think the cheapest Euro price is from Belgium at Euro 220, so that's about the same price. https://www.raceline.be/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1773

I said that. The two knobs are both for compression damping. They damp the speed at which you go down. Red is the same as Wilbers Blue: Low speed damping Gold is the same as Wilbers Red: High speed damping (Look I haven't seen this written down anywhere, but it doesn't need a rocket scientist...

The book details are in their catalog. But their online shop and the link to it are dead. I'm going to phone hem next week and see if I can order one.

Here's the page from their catalog. It's got the same knob setup as ours. The link I sent was from a different set-up, sorry bout that. I was looking at this page when I was figuring out the knobs. But our shock looks almost identical to this in set-up.

I think I have it, Watson!!! Correct, they are both compression adjusters: high and low speed. I also needed to find out which is which. I haven't tuned my suspension yet either. The rebound adjuster is the dial at the bottom end of the shock: right near the paralever assembly, where it bolts...

Thanks. I've tried to look for things like that, but good point. And my bearings are new: replaced in Joburg. I'm going to leave it as is with the clunking every time I go over a bump until the dealer can see me. It will be easier to diagnose then. And I'm HOPING they are willing to swap out...

Guys, Here's the sheet. I'm trying to document it a bit better. Is it a local build but with Wilber's internals??? Or Ohlins internals? I was told but forget now. I bought it as I was leaving RSA and my bike stayed there. And I never met the C2P guy, altho he did stop by my bike whilst stored...