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The next day’s drive is long. We hand around at the border for an hour to get the results of our rapid COVID-19 test that we take in the a little van. We’re all COVID negative and are allowed back into South Africa without issue. Phew… because I haven’t worn a mask in two weeks.

We spend an hour trying to repair it, and we do. Our repair lasts about 150km until we hit Grunau. In fact, the axle broke loose 100 meters from the Grunau Hotel. While Jan Lucas inspects the damage, Marc runs over to the hotel and calls the local “Trailer Repair” guy. Seriously. He exists...

I’m awake at 4:30 already. ****, my ribs hurt. I make some coffee, shower and attempt to get dressed and pack away my tent. But because I can hardly move my left side without pain, it takes 90 agonizing minutes. I hit the road at 6am. My plan is to blast down the shortest route to Windhoek...

The night ends with a glutonous dinner and great conversation. I feel truly blessed. What started as a lonely day without my friends, ended as an evening filled with new friends. I awkwardly climb into my tent trying not to hurt myself in the process, set my alarm for 5am, and sleep like the dead.

Shortly afterwards, we jump in the support vehicle and drive to the top of a mine dump to watch the sunset.

To make things even more scary, the marsh area is sandy and I fall twice creeping slowly around the corners. My ribs are starting to hurt and picking up my bike is getting harder and harder. After ever corner I say a little “thank you” to the big man upstairs for sparing my life again...

It’s dry and eerie feeling. I’m scared that death awaits me around every corner. I’m probably totally safe, but those damn Rhino guys succeeded at scaring me. I’m not really enjoying this, but the GPS says that I have 75km to go. That’s two hours in the riverbed. A LOT can happen in two hours...

What if there are lions with cubs that chase me? What if I fall with two broken ribs and can’t pick up my bike? I’d be lunch for them. I enter the riverbed and ride fast. My goal is to get this over with, but try to enjoy it at the same time. I’m not successful.

“Are you heading to White Lady Lodge via the Ugab river?” one of them asks. “Yip” “You know that motorbikes are banned in the riverbed?” “Really? That’s not what I’ve heard…” “Yes. The signs will go up in two weeks. But there’s an alternative route you can take.” I pretend to listen to the...

I pass some Rhino conservation workers and have a quick chat. They are completely surprised to see me. I’m delighted to see humans instead of elephants.

I stop after a few minutes to adjust the forks. Perhaps the handlebar is not bent and it’s the forks. If that’s the case, I can just loosen the bolts on the triple clamps and give it a few pumps. I do that, but no dice. It’s the bars. I guess, I’m gonna have to go slow. I start smiling again...

I get on the bike and press the starter. She starts first time! Damn, I love my 500. But she’s been hurt. Her handlebars are bent. Not too badly, but enough that I need to adjust my riding. I need to get going quickly, before the pain kicks in. I still have a riverbed to ride – a long one...

Fuuuuucck! My baby! For some reason, I remember to snap a pic before rushing over to stop the fuel leaking form the tank. I rush over. Ouch. My ribs hurt. This is a familiar hurt. The same hurt I felt 2 months ago when I also flew superman style over my bars and broke my ribs. I’ve fractured...

I’ve found a nice slow pace and I’m feeling confident and comfortable. The track is a kind of soft, deep gravel, so steering is difficult. My front tire keeps riding up the center of the track and sometimes I feel as if I’m steering left, but riding straight. Weird. And then it happens… I...

I’m a little shaken, but I’m having a good time… It’s barren and gorgeous.

After dusting myself off I decide to take it easy… very easy. I’ve learned how quickly things can go south. “No more dumb ****, Bruce. OK?” OK. As I continue slowly on… The sandy tracks become windy, sandy tracks. I see elephant dung everywhere – like in this clip… https://youtu.be/EUk565XFLy4

I don’t (make it). I stop 2 meters from the top of the hill and I run out of steam. ****, it’s steep up here. How am I going to get down??? Here’s how… https://youtu.be/mbU_AundwwQ

I see a hill in the distance that looks like it will make a fun hill climb and a great vantage point for a photo. “This is probably a dumb idea.” I think to myself. I’m alone in Desolation Valley. No humans for hours. Why risk a rocky hill climb? Because it’s fun? I’m an *****. I start...

Now, all I want to do is get the hell out of this river bed. I’ve seen enough elephants for 100 lifetimes. I just want some open plains where I can see what’s ahead of me. 😊 Soon, I get what I asked for and arrive at a beautiful rocky plain.

But not 5 seconds later, she charges me again. She wants me gone. This time, I get the message. I plunge my phone back into my pocket, hit the starter and blast the hell out of dodge in a cloud of sand. But the river wasn’t done with me yet. Just around the corner, I stop dead in my tracks...