Find piece of a spring on sump plug magnet

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Smittie2

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I am busy servicing my 990R and trying to locate an oil leak, thats been there since my valve clearances was done, check everything and replaced the starter o ring as well, nothing still there, I suspect the wrong amout of oil is in the bike, dont know anymore.

When I removed the sump plug, a piece of spring was sitting on the magnet, where the hel did that come from, it is not a very big one, definitely not a clutch spring. I was thinking maybe an tensioner spring like timing chain, maybe somebody has delt with this before, will be very sad if that motor needs to be stripped.

Please if somebody got an idea, will try and load a picture.
 

Dux

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What is the diameter and thickness of the spring
 

Kamanya

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I am busy servicing my 990R and trying to locate an oil leak, thats been there since my valve clearances was done, check everything and replaced the starter o ring as well, nothing still there, I suspect the wrong amout of oil is in the bike, dont know anymore.

When I removed the sump plug, a piece of spring was sitting on the magnet, where the hel did that come from, it is not a very big one, definitely not a clutch spring. I was thinking maybe an tensioner spring like timing chain, maybe somebody has delt with this before, will be very sad if that motor needs to be stripped.

Please if somebody got an idea, will try and load a picture

Strange!

Where’s the source of the leak?

How many k’s on the bike.

There’s no ways for the spring in the tensioner to get to the sump plug. The passages are too small.

Also, the tensioners have to be destroyed to get the spring loose too.
 

Dux

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The only springs I can think of are in the gear shift shafts and then in the arm of the gear lever shaft , numbers 7 and 9
IMG_20230121_124118.jpg
 

Dux

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The springs #7 are held in place by the casings so highly unlikely to be that , most likely it is a piece of #9 that broke off
 

Smittie2

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I suppose the engine need to be stripped for that?, had no issues with shifting?
 

Smittie2

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Strange!

Where’s the source of the leak?

How many k’s on the bike.

There’s no ways for the spring in the tensioner to get to the sump plug. The passages are too small.

Also, the tensioners have to be destroyed to get the spring loose too.
It's running around the back of the cylinder (the back one) and out at the front of the starter housing(on the gearlever side), it is not a lot, but here by the front sprocket it is a mess. The bike has got almost 40 000km on. I look through all the drawings and spare part list and think Dux is right, that it can be that spring #9. Will start stripping tonight if Eskom gives me a chance. Suppose you need to buy the whole unit and would not find the spring separate? But let me not worry about that now, first need to find the place it comes from.
 

Kamanya

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It's running around the back of the cylinder (the back one) and out at the front of the starter housing(on the gearlever side), it is not a lot, but here by the front sprocket it is a mess. The bike has got almost 40 000km on. I look through all the drawings and spare part list and think Dux is right, that it can be that spring #9. Will start stripping tonight if Eskom gives me a chance. Suppose you need to buy the whole unit and would not find the spring separate? But let me not worry about that now, first need to find the place it comes from.
I'm almost certain I might have a spare to sell you if that is the case. I'll have to go unearth my one trunk of parts.

As of for oil;

  • There is a syndrome that was far more apparent on the 950 than 990's. The base of the rear cylinder starts leaking and creates the exactly the same muck that you're seeing. This was because the cylinder pots microscopically moved/expanded against the base of the engine case. Along with crud and fuel (the carb overflow vents to the V) that get stuck in the V of the pots, the base gasket, being a different metal creates an electrolytic charge that "eats" into the casing and oil then can weep from the base of the rear especially.

The 990's have a tiny spigot on the case that slots into the cylinder base to prevent movement. They also don't have carb vents. So it's very unlikely to be this.

My 950 at 63k km -



  • Check your oil pressure sensor, it is mounted to the back of the front cylinder... not easy to get to if you want to snug it up with the spanner. I think, if I remember right, you have to take the left tank and airbox off to get to it.

  • I have found, that occasionally, the cam cover gaskets can be slightly off when the covers are seated, or there's crud that got in causing a leak, or the bolts aren't torqued to spec. But, you'd be able to tell from the leak stain trail.
I once powerhosed mine in that area and then once dry, tried baby powder and went for a ride. I can't remember if it solved my search for the leak, but it's an idea. You can leave off the right-hand tank for this, just block the crossover pipes.
 
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Roxtar

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Kamanya has it right I believe.... (y)
 

Rufus115

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@ Kamanya...I suppose you cant recall if the repair worked due to the fragrant smell of fresh baby powder wafting up from your otherwise manly smelling crotch...
 

Dux

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@ Kamanya...I suppose you cant recall if the repair worked due to the fragrant smell of fresh baby powder wafting up from your otherwise manly smelling crotch...
Manly smelling crotch !!! You know this ? How ? 🤣🤣🤣
 

Rufus115

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Dux, what goes on tour, stays on tour.

FWIW, spoke to a fellow adv touring mate who rides a 1290 today and asked how his recent tour went and he said, "I am never touring with another 950 cos another one broke on this tour and it wouldnt change gears or wouldnt hold a gear. We stripped the clucth side off and found a loose bolt on the selector shaft. Replacing it didnt solve the problem". I am wondering if somehow its similar to the above posters issue except his issue had not actually manifested itself yet. For context, my mate was bleeting about 950's cos on our last trip, my 950's clutch had thrown in the towel and needed a duct tape repair to limp off the pass and beg off the rest of the trip.
 

Smittie2

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Thanks Kamanya, if I think about it now, on start up the last few times and I engage 1st gear, the bike made a strange thing, as if the gear was not engaged properly, so I am pretty sure it is that spring now, it will be great if I can buy that spare from you, will contact you once stripped.

On the oil leak, all the culprits was checked, sensor, valve covers, base gasket every thing, I replaced the starter O-ring before, it still looks if the oil come out there, thats why I suspect overfill, these things is a bastard to get the right amount of oil in, the dipstick level is newer the same, but I am going to replace starter Oring again and this time measure the right amount of oil, not going according to the dipstick.
 

Roxtar

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On the oil leak, all the culprits was checked, sensor, valve covers, base gasket every thing, I replaced the starter O-ring before, it still looks if the oil come out there, thats why I suspect overfill, these things is a bastard to get the right amount of oil in, the dipstick level is newer the same, but I am going to replace starter Oring again and this time measure the right amount of oil, not going according to the dipstick.
The oil fill in actually straight forward. It only takes 3L of oil filled in 2 stages via the oil tank. First fill at 2.5L then run motor until warm, turn off and then top up to top of dipstick..... refer to manual if unsure. If done correctly it is virtually impossible to get wrong.
 

Cracker

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Thanks Kamanya, if I think about it now, on start up the last few times and I engage 1st gear, the bike made a strange thing, as if the gear was not engaged properly, so I am pretty sure it is that spring now, it will be great if I can buy that spare from you, will contact you once stripped.

On the oil leak, all the culprits was checked, sensor, valve covers, base gasket every thing, I replaced the starter O-ring before, it still looks if the oil come out there, thats why I suspect overfill, these things is a bastard to get the right amount of oil in, the dipstick level is newer the same, but I am going to replace starter Oring again and this time measure the right amount of oil, not going according to the dipstick.
I had that leak from the rear cylinder and stripped the motor, just to find I didn't have that problem but had a leak from the starter o-ring. Being a late model 950, I seem to recall those locator dowels??

Expensive little exercise but I learnt a helluva lot about the motor and its workings .................. so all was not lost. Ended up replacing quite a few parts while I could.

I trust my bike more than ever, now. But, ja, I've also spent way more I think should be spent on a bike.

You strange feeling in first may be a "dry" clutch on start up. Sort of a slip/jerk type motion?

If you're struggling with oil levels, check the 1-way valve on the oil tank. If that leaks, over-filling could easily follow.
 

Smittie2

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Back to Square 1, Strip the clutch side of the motor, everything is in tact and actually very neat, the spring on the selector shaft is 100% and also not the same as the piece I found.

Now my theory, I have an oil leak that I am struggling to find, I suspect as said previously that it is an oil level problem, so I suspect that the 2 problems is connected. Some where an non return valve or releave valve spring got damaged in the oil system, that is causing that there is too much oil in the engine, that result the oil being pushed out at the starter O-ring. When I drained the oil, there was about almost 500ml in the motor and the rest in the oil tank. Yesterday I checked the check valve at the tank, the little ball, I can push in by hand, very weak that spring, is that correct? I looked on the drawings and see on the oil pump is an releave valve, sitting right at the sump plug, that spring looks, on the drawing more or less the size of the piece I found. The piece I found, you can see is not a pap little spring, it will be strong, almost like the type of spring you get on hydraulic system that we work with, you will kak to push it in by hand if I can put it like that.

I do not even want to think about the low oil pressure that it will result on the motor, it does not look if there is wear on the motor, if I look at the oil.
 
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