Hearts in the Desert (Video Added)

[Minxy]

Tuesday the 17th of September 2019 (continued)

I take HSK to the Van Zyls campsite to show him where we stayed on the Honda Quest in 2017.

This was such an awesome place to stay. It really feels like you are miles away from civilization. I remember it was freezing cold that year too, oh it was sooooo cold. [member=61]Kamanya[/member] still put hot coals under our camping chairs to keep us warm! Coudn't believe the Kaokoland got that cold. This place is the reason I have been riding around with a thermal sleeping bag liner in my backpack all this time

Anyway, it is literally 10am. We have made ridiculously good time :ricky: We will not be staying here today. We'll push on to Marble Camp.

While we are here, let me share a good tip. If you don't have a sand foot on your bike, and there is nothing nearby you can use, just fold your glove and Bob's your uncle :biggrin:

 

[Minxy]

The last step of Heartbreak Hill is the killer. It is fairly rough going up and if your line is not perfect that last ledge will catch you out.

Especially if you are too lazy to walk it first haha! We just went for it :imaposer: When I saw those big rocks right up top (and I swear they got bigger...) I was like, oh crap, but the bike just went over them no problem :ricky: The 500s really made mince meat of Heartbreak Hill and all the other obstacles. I don't want to make this RR sound like an accolade to the 500, but damm I love that bike, I wouldn't want to be here on anything else.

 

[Oubones]

Yip that last piece of Heartbreak hill is not so easy. eepwall:
I like your glove idea for a sidestand foot, I did the hillbilly thing and just spun my back wheel in as if I was parking on the beach. eepwall:
Nice to see the familiar places again, thanks! :thumleft:
:sip:

 

[Xpat]

...

Anyway, there was also another option I very briefly looked at when doing route planning (please see highlighted below in yellow). I didn't plot it though as I have no idea what conditions etc are like. I don't quite recall seeing anyone go that way in the ride reports that I've read before. It would actually be nice if somebody who knew this road, and could share more info on it. I see there is also an Aap river? Does that part of the track follow the riverbed? It could be nice to go explore on a next outing.

I have looked at that track when I was planning our trip with Bertie and Justin. But then I found out about the route running through Robbie pass, and that was it.

To be honest, that track was my only my third choice of getting to Opuwo from Sesfontein. Apart from Robbies pass route, I was seriously considering riding from Sesfontein to Puros on D3707 (the main road to Puros you did on the Quest) and then taking Huarusib river up all the way to Opuwo (i.e. not turning off west over to Khumib river about 25 km north of Puros, but rather continue in that riverbed that would eventually deliver you to the dirt road between Opuwo and Etanga dozen or so km west of Opuwo. Yes, in this route I would ride the same 25 km of Huarusib on the way up as well as later on on the way down, but to me that is probably the most attractive route as it runs in Huarusib riverbed for over 100 km or so, and those 25 km from Puros to Khumib turnoff are one of my favourite places in Kaokoland (together with Hoanib river), so I have no problem to ride them up and down - especially early in the morning or late in the evening.

So your route east of C43 would be my third choice - but of course still way preferrable to the C43 highway (at least on 500). But I would not connect to it in Ongongo (Warmquelle) as shown on your map, but rather ride from Khowarig lodge east through the Khowarib gorge (your last day) and at the end of the gorge where you turned right to another riverbed, I would turn left (north and follow riverbed up north toward those roads on your map).

Another option if you are starting from Palmwag and want to go all the way to Opuwo, would be to do the Little Serengeti loop (the one you did on your last day in oposite direction), but not turn into Khuwarig gorge west, but continue north as described above. Justin almost did that when he missed the turnoff to Khuwarib (Hoanib riverbed) and I had to chase him down to turn him back.

 

[Minxy]

Tuesday the 17th of September 2019 (continued)

We continue to traverse the pass.

The scenery and views are just spectacular, it is really something else.

And before we know it, we make it to the Van Zyls Pass viewpoint. It is just before 12am.

We are so happy to be here, it is almost surreal. It is not every Tuesday afternoon that you get to spend time on top of Van Zyls Pass with your other half.

From here we look out over the Marienflus.

We also take the time to empty our fuel bladders into our tanks. As mentioned before, we started from Okangwati with a full 17L in our tanks, and extra 5L in our fuel bladders.

The fun isn't over yet though, the hardest part is still to come.

 

[Minxy]

...

Anyway, there was also another option I very briefly looked at when doing route planning (please see highlighted below in yellow). I didn't plot it though as I have no idea what conditions etc are like. I don't quite recall seeing anyone go that way in the ride reports that I've read before. It would actually be nice if somebody who knew this road, and could share more info on it. I see there is also an Aap river? Does that part of the track follow the riverbed? It could be nice to go explore on a next outing.

I have looked at that track when I was planning our trip with Bertie and Justin. But then I found out about the route running through Robbie pass, and that was it.

To be honest, that track was my only my third choice of getting to Opuwo from Sesfontein. Apart from Robbies pass route, I was seriously considering riding from Sesfontein to Puros on D3707 (the main road to Puros you did on the Quest) and then taking Huarusib river up all the way to Opuwo (i.e. not turning off west over to Khumib river about 25 km north of Puros, but rather continue in that riverbed that would eventually deliver you to the dirt road between Opuwo and Etanga dozen or so km west of Opuwo. Yes, in this route I would ride the same 25 km of Huarusib on the way up as well as later on on the way down, but to me that is probably the most attractive route as it runs in Huarusib riverbed for over 100 km or so, and those 25 km from Puros to Khumib turnoff are one of my favourite places in Kaokoland (together with Hoanib river), so I have no problem to ride them up and down - especially early in the morning or late in the evening.

So your route east of C43 would be my third choice - but of course still way preferrable to the C43 highway (at least on 500). But I would not connect to it in Ongongo (Warmquelle) as shown on your map, but rather ride from Khowarig lodge east through the Khowarib gorge (your last day) and at the end of the gorge where you turned right to another riverbed, I would turn left (north and follow riverbed up north toward those roads on your map).

Another option if you are starting from Palmwag and want to go all the way to Opuwo, would be to do the Little Serengeti loop (the one you did on your last day in oposite direction), but not turn into Khuwarig gorge west, but continue north as described above. Justin almost did that when he missed the turnoff to Khuwarib (Hoanib riverbed) and I had to chase him down to turn him back.

Thanks for your insight Xpat, I will most definitely have a look at those options for next time :thumleft:

 

[Ri]

I must admit I was just a little thankful to be in a 4x4 when we climbed Heartbreak Hill - it was hard to imagine having to conquer those boulders on a motorbike

My heartbreak on that trip was missing out on Van Zyl's Pass and the Marienfluss, rather than my broken ankle - I was sent around the long (but also beautiful) way with the back up vehicles, and just caught the butt-end of the fairy circles :'(

 

[Amsterdam]

The last step of Heartbreak Hill is the killer. It is fairly rough going up and if your line is not perfect that last ledge will catch you out.

Especially if you are too lazy to walk it first haha! We just went for it :imaposer: When I saw those big rocks right up top (and I swear they got bigger...) I was like, oh crap, but the bike just went over them no problem :ricky: The 500s really made mince meat of Heartbreak Hill and all the other obstacles. I don't want to make this RR sound like an accolade to the 500, but damm I love that bike, I wouldn't want to be here on anything else.

And the video shows that.  That bike has such an amazing low rev tractor-like climbing ability.  This write up makes me want to go back again. 

I have seen others also strap the 5 litres around the front head light.  How does this affect the steering when trying to do manoeuvres over/around rocks etc?

 

[Minxy]

The last step of Heartbreak Hill is the killer. It is fairly rough going up and if your line is not perfect that last ledge will catch you out.

Especially if you are too lazy to walk it first haha! We just went for it :imaposer: When I saw those big rocks right up top (and I swear they got bigger...) I was like, oh crap, but the bike just went over them no problem :ricky: The 500s really made mince meat of Heartbreak Hill and all the other obstacles. I don't want to make this RR sound like an accolade to the 500, but damm I love that bike, I wouldn't want to be here on anything else.

And the video shows that.  That bike has such an amazing low rev tractor-like climbing ability.  This write up makes me want to go back again. 

I have seen others also strap the 5 litres around the front head light.  How does this affect the steering when trying to do manoeuvres over/around rocks etc?

I thought the fuel strapped to the front would be more problematic, it wasn't. Everything handled fine. We had toolbags on our front fenders too, so quite a bit of weight there and everything was surprisingly good. We borrowed the idea from [member=25017]Das Alpha Tier[/member] and [member=11625]Damaraland[/member] . They had it strapped to their bikes the same way on their Angola trip.

I must admit I was just a little thankful to be in a 4x4 when we climbed Heartbreak Hill - it was hard to imagine having to conquer those boulders on a motorbike

My heartbreak on that trip was missing out on Van Zyl's Pass and the Marienfluss, rather than my broken ankle - I was sent around the long (but also beautiful) way with the back up vehicles, and just caught the butt-end of the fairy circles :'(

Ri, you will have to go back again! Our trip in 2018 also didn't work out, we didn't even get that far. You must not give up. And... I thought you fit quite lekker on that 500 when you were here, and mine isn't even lowered. Just a thought

 

[Ri]

Ri, you will have to go back again! Our trip in 2018 also didn't work out, we didn't even get that far. You must not give up. And... I thought you fit quite lekker on that 500 when you were here, and mine isn't even lowered. Just a thought

I know, I have been thinking too :ricky:
But unless I can swap one for a few DR650s it will have to remain a thought - my finances are kaput for now. Maybe Xpat can lend me his... :imaposer:

 

[adamktm]

I see HSK has his fuel bladder strapped onto the tank bag later in the trip, why did he do that and you kept yours on the front?

Loving the RR, I really wish I could ride as often as you 2  :biggrin:

 

[Grunder]

I see HSK has his fuel bladder strapped onto the tank bag later in the trip, why did he do that and you kept yours on the front?

Loving the RR, I really wish I could ride as often as you 2  [emoji3]

I saw that too. Wonder if it was not empty at that time.

 

[schalk vd merwe]

Hi Minxy how lekker is all this.

 

[schalk vd merwe]

Hi Minxy I also move some of my luggage onto my front fender when I was in Livingstonia in Malawi. I had to ride out a very steep hill from the camp and the bike would just wheelie due to the weight at the back. Moving luggage on to the front fender solved the problem.

 

[schalk vd merwe]

Looking at your videos, you guys and girls can ride.

 

[adamktm]

I see HSK has his fuel bladder strapped onto the tank bag later in the trip, why did he do that and you kept yours on the front?

Loving the RR, I really wish I could ride as often as you 2  [emoji3]

I saw that too. Wonder if it was not empty at that time.

It definitely looks full, unless HSK has it filled with air so he can have a lay down when they stop cos keeping up with Minxy is tiring him out  :imaposer:

 

[Grunder]

I see HSK has his fuel bladder strapped onto the tank bag later in the trip, why did he do that and you kept yours on the front?

Loving the RR, I really wish I could ride as often as you 2  [emoji3]

I saw that too. Wonder if it was not empty at that time.

It definitely looks full, unless HSK has it filled with air so he can have a lay down when they stop cos keeping up with Minxy is tiring him out  :imaposer:

Haha

 

[hondsekierie]

I see HSK has his fuel bladder strapped onto the tank bag later in the trip, why did he do that and you kept yours on the front?

Loving the RR, I really wish I could ride as often as you 2  [emoji3]

I saw that too. Wonder if it was not empty at that time.

It definitely looks full, unless HSK has it filled with air so he can have a lay down when they stop cos keeping up with Minxy is tiring him out  :imaposer:

Haha, to be honest - I was just too lazy to strap it on the front. 

You have to be quite careful when attaching it to the front as you don't want it to interfere with the break line's movement.  I thought I'll just strap it to my tank bag and see how it goes and it actually worked out perfect.  I barely noticed it and almost worked better as one could see the front fender for a change which makes for a bit more accurate riding in the more technical stuff.  It does however have other advantages like Schalk said, not that we ever had problems with misbehaving bikes.

Can I also say it - I really love my 500 :ricky:

 

[punisher]

fantastic RR im loooooooving itttttttttttttttt  :thumleft:

 

[adamktm]

I see HSK has his fuel bladder strapped onto the tank bag later in the trip, why did he do that and you kept yours on the front?

Loving the RR, I really wish I could ride as often as you 2  [emoji3]

I saw that too. Wonder if it was not empty at that time.

It definitely looks full, unless HSK has it filled with air so he can have a lay down when they stop cos keeping up with Minxy is tiring him out  :imaposer:

Haha, to be honest - I was just too lazy to strap it on the front. 

You have to be quite careful when attaching it to the front as you don't want it to interfere with the break line's movement.  I thought I'll just strap it to my tank bag and see how it goes and it actually worked out perfect.  I barely noticed it and almost worked better as one could see the front fender for a change which makes for a bit more accurate riding in the more technical stuff.  It does however have other advantages like Schalk said, not that we ever had problems with misbehaving bikes.

Can I also say it - I really love my 500 :ricky:

I'd be too scared the fuel leaked onto my knackers  :imaposer: :dousing: