KLR 2008 ff wiring loom issue and how to fix it

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lecap

Bachelor Dog
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Suzuki DR650
I finally decided to post this after a customers bike received a new wiring loom on warranty and it was fitted just like the old one - not fixing the problem. I heard rumors that Kawasaki issued a recall to fix some wiring loom issues but I am not sure if it deals with this issue. If you know better feel free to reply.

Update: All the way to the very last KLR's which were imported in late 2013 and sold until early 2015 Kawasaki has only partially fixed the problem by routing the wiring loom a few centimetres lower around the coolant reservoir frame. Work performed on the reservoir or any other component located on the frame can easily move the wiring loom back into harm's way. Means: No matter which year model your new shape KLR is proceed as described below or make sure some one else has done it already.

Tools needed: Normal workshop tools.
Parts needed: A few strong cable ties.
Time to fix for a reasonably skilled and tooled mechanic: One hour from the full assembled bike. Five minutes if the frame covers, radiator cowls, seat and tank are off already whilst servicing the bike.

The problem is the main wiring loom running over the subframe assembly that holds the water bottle, regulator / rectifier and horn and gets pinched by the tank. It affects all "new" Kawasaki KLR650 of the type KL650E with VIN's starting JKA KLEE... :

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In combination with the wobbly KLR tank rubbers this lets the tank get hold of the wiring and sea saw its way through the looms armour, munch, munch,

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taping, munch, munch and finally the wires, causing a lekker shortcut and a cellphone call for a bakkie or trailer:

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The fix is dead simple and takes only about an hour from the fully assembled bike, five extra minutes if it's done together with a service (tank already off).

Remove frame side covers, seat, radiator cowls (side fairings), tank and water bottle cover.

Remove the bolt holding the top of the water bottle subframe to the frame:

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Loosen the bolt holding the bottom of the subframe to the frame:

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Remove the two bolts holding the water bottle to the frame:

pic006.jpg


Cut the plastic holder attaching the wiring loom to the frame of the front fairing in front of the horn. Remove the bolt holding the right side of the fairing to the frame (from the inside of the fairing).
Remove and discard the surplus wiring clamps from the horn mounting bolts (marked with X). Pull the water bottle subframe a few centimetres away from the frame as indicated to allow pushing the wiring underneath the subframe tube:

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Reroute the wiring loom to the inside of the front fairing frame as shown (It will be much better protected in case of a fall with damage to the plastics). Make sure the wiring loom clears the horn as indicated by the red arrow. Attach the wiring with a few cable ties to avoid interference with moving parts of the steering (near impossible, plenty of space) and to avoid chafing from vibration:

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As a final measure consider fitting two 10mm washers on top of the rear tank rubbers underneath the large 6mm OEM washers, on top of the tank rubbers and fitting around the steel spacer tubes. Ideally use stainles steel or at least zinc plated ones.
This modification will make the wobbly KLR tank mount a bit more sturdy by eliminating the play in the rear tank mount, reducing or eliminating squeaking of the tank rubbers, and preventing fairing bolts attaching to the tank from vibrating out.
I have done the modifications with the washers on all my KL650A and C which accumulated a lot of mileage over the years, as well as on some customers KL650A, C and E without noticing any ill effects.
 
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