Leo's trip down memory lane (Not a ride, but a rather a recent travel report)

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Leo

Grey Hound
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Joined
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Location
Brakpan, South Africa
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BMW R1200GS HP2
I recently had the privilege to re-visit Oshakati for business and jumped at the opportunity as I was rather curious as to what had happened to all the military structures we left behind when the SADF pulled out of Namibia in â??89.

As regular forum members might know, I served for several years in the armoured corpse and we did most of our border duties either at 61 Meg or at 10 Pantser in Oshakati.

We were upgrading computer software for a big customer in Ondangwa, Oshakati and Oshikango, so it was just logical for me to volunteered to do the upgrade at the Oshakati branch.

We arrived at a fairly hot Ondangwa and it immediately became apparent that there was little or nothing left of all the military installations that stood all over the place when last I was there.

My colleagues were staying in the Protea hotel in Ondangwa while I was booked in at the Oshandira Lodge in Oshakati.

The Protea hotel was opened by Sam Njoma and Robert Mogabe. No wonder his country is in such as state, heâ??s travelling all over Africa opening hotels.

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While I was waiting for my lift to Oshakati, my colleagues hit the pool while we ordered a few cold ones. Of course we had to remove a dead mole from the pool and the water was rather dirty, and the walls very slimy, but it was so hot, nobody was complaining. 

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My lift arrived late afternoon as we set off for Oshakati. I was in for a big surprise.
Oshakati was about 100 times bigger and like th erest of Owamboland, was expanding at a tremendous rate. The place is still as hot as I recall, the sand just as white and the mosquitoes still a nuisance. I had decided not to take anti malaria tables, so I had to be very careful not to fall prey to any of these little fuckers, so I had ample supplies of citronella candles, peaceful sleep and doom.

10 Pantser was situated right next to the runway, but today this structure has become obsolete and no traces of our base were anywhere to be seen. The area just left of the runway before the hanger was where our base was situated.

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The tall telecommunications tower is still standing

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Most of the streets are still gravel

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There are still several of the old PF houses standing and they are mostly occupied by locals, some with high walls and expensive looking houses, but some in a very poor state.

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These old bunkers were one of a few military structures from the past

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Water is still pumped into these towers to provide pressure

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A visit to the Ruacana falls provided little or no excitement; the falls was as dry as a nunâ??s eyes.

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Check where this Baobab tree was trying to grow

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The border into Angola

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Ruacana town have about 10 houses standing, the rest have all been taken down. All that remains are the cement platforms where the houses previously stood

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Did I mention that Owamboland is flat?

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In fact itâ??s very flat  :3some:

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Some of the roads are being tarred, so if you want to travel some of the 37000 kmâ??s of gravel roads left in Namibia, do it soon as they are rapidly decreasing.

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Yes there are still many ant-heaps and their tips still point north.

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Ever heard the story about the best 4X4Xfar is a rental car?  :mwink:

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We were on our way to Oshikango and were travelling parallel with the Angolan border.

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Oshikango is a buzzing metropolis where bribery is thriving and many U$ are changing hands. These guys can move 30 tons of cement across the border in one day using their bicycles. Reason being - everything less than N$500 crosses the border with zero import tax, so on the Angolan side the cement is re-loaded onto a truck and moved inland. Violla, lotsa moola saved. Their record is 7 bags of cement on one bicycle  :eek:

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The whole town is blocked by heavy truck trying to get across the border, so you have to be very wakeup when driving.

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One can basically buy anything in town, OK anything you would want to export to Angola.

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We popped in at a local lodge and had to fork out N$45 for this oily Prego.

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Huge American pick-ups and Land Cruiser imported from Dubai are being sold at more than half their SA cost, but theyâ??re all LHD and there is no motor plan, etc.

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Check the price for these 5 ton run-arounds  :deal:

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At least theyâ??re selling the good stuff  :thumleft:

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This structure outside Ondangwa is also of a bygone era. Funacide, being an ex-budgie gunner will recognise. Anti aircraft guns was placed on these all over Owamboland, but these days this was the only one I saw that still remained.

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Very dilapidated and basically falling apart

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One of the shade nets where our Mirages were parked in the days of the border war

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Some controversial advertising for safe sex

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As mentioned I was staying at the Oshandira lodge, which is busy expanding, but the building is currently jeopardized by the rains and the clay sand where water doesnâ??t drain

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If youâ??re in the area, go stay there â?? reasonable value for money â?? hereâ??s the contact details.

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In Ongwediwa between Ondangwa and Oshakati we discovered Bennieâ??s Entertainment World. Fairly tame springbok roam between guests while you sit having a cold one.

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N$20 entry fee ensures the place is not flooded by hooligans

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If you have a room without a bar fridge, one have to improvise

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In main road Oshakati, several pick ups are sold to the highest bidder.

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Interesting fact - their plates indicate theyâ??re from Cape Town or Bellville  ???

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Our accommodation was from a previous era, but as mentioned, new ones are being built.

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Our menu had mopanie worms listed as a started, and of course we had to give it a try. Let me just say, I doubt Iâ??ll ever eat it again.

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A few shots as we passed over the Etosha pans â?? interesting shapes and patterns

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Owamboland is still scarred by hundreds of little kraalâ??s where every headman reins supreme. The entire area is crisscrossed with little footpaths and roads. 

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In summary, it was a great trip down memory lane and something that I have always wanted to do; hopefully next time I visit Iâ??ll be on the bike.  :thumleft:






 
Die algemene verval in Afrika bly maar hartseer en 'n probleem!
 
Ek dreig nou al baie lank om terug te gaan soontoe. Was 18 maande by 53 batteljon op Ondangwa in.
Hoe het hulle daai tyd gese? "Join the army. See the world. Meet interesting people and................." Onthou nog baie goed daardie Ack-ack torings by die lughawe op Ondangwa en die gunships wat loopskoonmaak nadat hulle opgstyg het. Ek verondestel, selfs in 'Wamboland verander baie dinge in 29 jaar.
Nou sit ek hier, so paar honderd kilometer noord van Ondangs en werk saam die mense wat daardie tyd ons grootste vyande was. Nogal weird watse draai die lewe met mens kan loop..............
 
I would love to go back my self and see those areas again.  I was at Oshivelo for 18 months and did many camps up there. On the camps I always made sure I ended up as Kwêvoël driver delivering Afgas all over. Lots of fun.
 
Nice one Leo.  Was at Ondangs and Oshakati a number of times with the SAAF EW crowd.  Some of you may remember the 'spook' ;)

Did a number of MAOT operations from Ondangs with the Pumas, rat drops etc.
 
Eish, the memories - Ondangwa, Ruacana (Hurricane base probably long gone?)

Will never forget climbing off a Buffel getting ready for a 7- day patrol and seeing a group of motorcyclists cruising past in the main road obviously on holiday whilst we were engaged in warfare. Surreal.

I think I too must go back on day. Thanks for the report :thumleft:

 
Nice pics Leo...

Wouldn't catch me climbing that platform as it stands there.. looks a bit scary.


The pic of the radio tower reminds me of climbing one of those things at Miershoop (sp?)

1st Pic below

The second pic was taken early morning at Oshikati I think it was Feb 89

 

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Hey Leo nice report.

I remember it being sooo flat around 61 that we had 1:50 000 maps with a single contour on the grid. I used to gives the guns a bearing and elevation to shoot on just to work out where I was. Fortunately not where the rounds landed!
 
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