Malawi or bust... turned out bust

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Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
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Location
KZN
Well... the plan was simple really. pack my rucksack with as little as possible, tie it to the back of my bike and head for Malawi with as many dirt roads as i could find on the way. A great ride on my own to clear my head and recharge the batteries. Sounds easy enough and to start with it was just that. But nooo!! there just had to be one small hickup that would, in the end lead to a complete and utter mission failure. So anyways... this is what hapenned

My mate Dave, came round a while back to visit, and it was the first time he had seen my shiny new bike( new second hand i guess). So as guys do when there is a new gal to stare at and admire and do the usual oohing and aaahing, i mentioned that i planned to ride up to Malawi, going through Botswana, Zambia, into Malawi then back home via mozambique and swaziland. Well needless to say a huge grin dawned on his mug and he said he was coming as well. About a week later i recieved an email from him, saying that his mate Eric from the cape wanted to ride with us as well, and would be arriving in KZN a few days before the set off date. But there was one small hitch... Eric hasnt ridden offroad before. He has a new GS adventure with all the trimmings, but it has yet to pop its dirt track cherry. I did at this point begin to wonder if having a complete novice along for the trip was such a good idea after all. I mean c'mon, what if the old boy broke a hip when his bike had a lie down in the middle of nowhere? how was i going to carry him out, could i do any good if the worst should happen, blah blah blah. All the usual worst case scenarios ensued, and before i knew it, i was stressing much better, but coulnt quite bring myself to mention my misgivings to the two retirees. But with a bit of meditating on the matter and plenty of breathing into a paper bag to calm my nerves, i decided that whatever happens, happens and just to go with the flow. A client of mine from Dubai, called me about a week or so before departure date, and asked if i could do a photoshoot for him in Maputo. So i accepted the job, and made a quick change to the route. Swaziland and Mozambique first, then off to malawi, and back through the other countries i planned to visit.

And then the waiting game started, two weeks to go, and all i can do is daydream of what is to come... endless miles of great riding and good company, and a heap of new people to meet along the way.

then about three or four days before departure, Dave calls me up and says that Eric has left his bike registration papers at home. And he has come down with some sort of ear infection thingy that causes poor balance and such. So eric decided to ride up to joburg to see family instead, but dave would ride with me for a few days, if he was up for it, then head back home. So as it turns out, it was going to be a solo ride after all. I have to admit i was a bit dissapointed with the news, as i had met eric over lunch and he is a great bloke, and i was kinda looking forward to the mishaps and adventures that come with riding in the rough with decent folk. yet at the same time thrilled to the gills that i would be on my own for a while. sorry if that sounds selfish.

In the end dave rode out to my place and we set off with great weather and plenty of time to see where the road would take us.

Day one: We left at about 10:am after a hearty breakfast, and headed up the karkloof valley and once we hit the tar road on the other side, we turned right and headed for greytown. A quick stop in greytown for a coke and then we headed off to dundee, via tugela ferry on the R33.( take note here, the stretch of road that goes through tugela ferry and pomeroy is no longer a safe place to ride. heard of riders getting stoned off therir bikes and robbed at gunpoint. hopefully this changes soon, as its a decent stretch of tarmac). seems we were lucky that day, as we had a great ride up to dundee, with no hassels at all. By the time i rode into dundee, my ass was killing me. The XTZ 750 has one hell of a butt buster for a seat . i think i would have been better off sitting on a plank of wood. by the time we got to dundee it was mid afternoon or so, and we decided to find a spot to pitch our tents. And the sooner i was off my seat the better. i saw a sign for a campsite about 10kms outside dundee and made a dash for it. I kept thinking to myself as the miles eeked their way past, that if i am suffering on the first day from an uncomfy seat, how is it going to be in two weeks time. either get used to it, or trade the bloddy thing for a pony somewhere in mozaqmbique.

we rode into the campsite at about 15:30 or so. Checked in at reception, then set about pitchng my tent. When dave unrolled his sleeping mat and a sorry excuse for a blanket, i had to laugh. the weather was starting to turn for the worst, and if it rained, he was going to have a cold and wet night. But hats off to the geezer, i cant say i would be too keen to have a night out in the piss pouring rain. been there, done that too many times to remeber during my travels a few years back. Once we got camp set up, we headed off in search of a cold beer and some grub.

this is what i took with me
1 tshirt
1swiming shorts
3 pr undies
3 pr socks
micro towel
camera
paperwork + passport etc
gps
first aid
tent
s/bag
thermarest
gas cooker + 2 pots
tool kit + tyre irons
and my toothbrush

the heavy duty tubes i fitted the day before we left. I fitted new Karoo's while i was at it. Damn, but that back tyre took me bloody ages to get on the rim.
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the following day, dave and i say a quick cherrio to my mother and sister before heading off.... obligatory photo if you please.

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and

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a quick stop for a breather and a coke in greytown

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this is on the stretch of road near tugela ferry. hasnt seen rain in a very long time!!

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this sorry looking bedroll is what dave carried with him. Respect! But i will still keep my tent  thank you very much. ANd my god, but can this dude snore! woke up at about 4 am to the sounds of the appocalypse... turned out to be dave!

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more to come.......
 
Malawi or bust... turned out bust « on: Today at 02:12:17 AM »

Thats a great time of the day to write a ride report !!!!!!  cant wait to hear the rest  ;D
 
was looking foward to this one .... what a pity it all well burst  :dousing:
 
you're already my hero, that's some of the lightest packing i've seen by anyone doing a ride as far as malawi.  :thumleft:
 
Sorry for the delay on the RR. however i do have a valid excuse :deal: i have just arrived back home from my ride down to the west coast  and back.... i will post that report in a few days. So am off for a snooze and some grub, and will continue this report shortly.

oh yes...... Happy new year to you all. I hope 2011 brings you many, many great miles in the saddle!
 
charliegreger said:
Sorry for the delay on the RR. however i do have a valid excuse :deal: i have just arrived back home from my ride down to the west coast  and back.... i will post that report in a few days. So am off for a snooze and some grub, and will continue this report shortly.

oh yes...... Happy new year to you all. I hope 2011 brings you many, many great miles in the saddle!
Hm, and after so long with only two pairs of underthings charlie...i must say...bath , soak.....good to hear you are back..i thought it was only tomorrow...? glad you are safe. xx
 
wonder if hes back yet  ::) want to see the rest!
 
yes i am back at home after my far too short holiday, which was absolutely the poodles privates!!

anyways, where was i? aah yes, had just arrived at a spot just outside of Dundee.... hold on a sec, let me get my coffee... right then!

So Dave and i made camp at the spot in dundee and i must admit i was actually glad to not be sitting in the saddle. I know, i know, saying that is practically a moral sin, but you must understand something here first. sitting on that seat for the day eventually becomes something akin to being kicked in the arse by an angry donkey everytime you ride over so much as a pebble. So it was with great relief from me and some rather unsubtle sarcasm from dave that we went in search of a cold beer and some grub. Turned out the food was great and the beers went down a treat. We were tempted to go for a swim in the pond/pool/dam but ended up calling it a day and got our heads down early.

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Dave

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yours truly

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Day Two:  after a quick breakfast and good coffee, i had a look at the map and decided that i would head through swaziland and enter Mozambique via the Namaacha border. Dave was undecided at this point if he would ride into swaziland and spend another night on the road, or perhaps start making his way home. In the end it was decided that we would ride to the border at Mahamba and then decide what the plan would be. So we packed up and loaded the bike with our kit, and were all set to hit the road, and as luck would have it, i could not start my bike :BangHead:
Needless to say, this was somewhat irritating as i was keen to get back on my oh so comfy seat and ride for the day. Off with the luggage, open it up and pull out my toolbag. after a bit of a fiddle, i found that there was no fuel bieing pumped to the carbs but after a fashion i managed to get her going and we headed off.

we followed the R33 past Vryheid, and came across a great dirt road and ended up at the hot springs near Paulpietersburg. We came across three other bikers there who had decided to stay over. seems like a nice enough place, but its a bit posh for my tastes. They said that it was raining on the otherside of Paulpietersburg, but other than that the weather was good. We rode off after a bit of a chat, and i decided to stop in Paulpietersburg to see if i could get a length of hose as i was thinking that perhaps i had a semi-clogged fuel pipe or perhaps a hole in the vacuum line of the fuel pump. to be honest i didnt actually have a clue as to why i was having this problem, but i figured i should start with the basics.
I stopped at a petrol station and walked over to a fellow sitting in his car filling up at the pump. All i said was 'excuse me sir, would you by any chance know if there is a bike shop or a spares shop of sorts around here?" And can you believe this... he just turned his head slowly towards me and said "no, now please go away".... just like that.  :eek7: what that dudes problem was, i will never know, but i think it was rather rude.

We met the rain just as the biker trio had said, it was here that i discovered that i forgot my rain gear at home....sigh... not so organized after all it seems. but the rain was short lived and we ended up at the border post at about 3pm. Dave decided that he would ride with me into Sawziland and then head home the following day. After a quick and painless process at the broder on both sides, we headed into the first new country on the trip.

this is the dirt road off the R33 which gets you to the road just short of the hot springs

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We rode the few kms to Nhlangano, and decided that we would find a spot to camp and chill out for the rest of the day. I stopped outside a shop to ask for directions to a place i found on my GPS, and when i got back on my bke wouldnt start again!!! Damnit man, i have been planning this trip for ages and the bike hasnt so much as had a moments trouble till now. I turned the ignition on, pressed the start button, and all i got for my efforts was a faint click from the starter motor. so i walk over to dave and ask for a tow.... much to his delight at the thought of his humble KLR pulling the not so mighty after all Super Tenere. while he was digging out the rope from his bag, i tried the starter just for the hell of it, and sure enough she purred into life as she has faithfully done so countless times before. After a fair amount of cursing into my helmet, we set off in seach of our campsite. all the while me thinking of what in the world is happening to my bike. One minute it wont start for love nor money, the next its as if nothing is wrong at all and get the feeling that if it could speak, it would probably ask me what i was stressing about cause everything is just fine and dandy but thanks for asking, can we go now

Ten minutes later we arrived at a lodge of sorts, and as it turned out, they dont offer camping at all and wanted R450 for a room. the thought of having to share a room with that snore of daves was enough to convince me to keep looking, and besides, this trip is not about finding the first place to stay and paying whatever the going rate is, but to stick to my budget and that ment pitching my tent as often as possible.....
 
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