By now it was late - way past 4 pm, so I decided to finish the last 10 km or so where the river entered into the mountains - followed by dirt track - and at the dam on the other side hit tar and gun it down to Steelpoort for overnight. The track running through the mountains was a welcome change to the flat plains I was mostly riding before:
Right at that last spot KTM true to its labels plastered generously all over by the prior owner decided to turn this into real adventure, and refused to start. The pump was pumping and the engine would turn, butl always only twice and the bike would not start. After a bit of headscratching I called the gentleman Koedoespoort, who is by now sufficiently habituated to accept my calls during his family time without too much fuzz. He diagnosed it - as it turns out correctly - as low batter voltage. It looked like my idiotic habit - against which he warned me strongly before - of switching off the engine by killswitch while leaving the key on (and therefore lights and whatever else was hooked up to that batter) finally caught up with me. I was stopping frequently for pictures, and the fan was running overtime during my stops will engine off, which I'm sure didn't help. So I got finally caught.
I let it sit for a bit and tried few more times, but no luck, so I packed up backpack, stashed my gear behind a tree and walked half an hour to the dam and water treatment plant at the end of that mountain range. There I found local security guards off duty chilling with beer and managed after lengthy and frustrating exchange persuade one of them to go back with me in their car. He was all the time looking for funny excuses, saying it is company car and he might damage it yada yada. Eventually I managed to persuade him to try at least. He didn't have jumper cables, but the agreement was that if the car will make it to the bike then he will drive back to nearby village where we will try to make a plan. Yes it was retarted, but that was what I was able to accomplish via gentle perseverance (I wasn't in position to bully him).
We made it all the way to the bike through some gnarly sections (it was Tazz) where I thought he would turn back. Once at the bike in the complete darkness he confirmed that the road is too hard and he is not coming back. Luckily for me, the KTM have rested a bit and did start on its own. So I gave the guys some beer money and send them on their way, while I geared up and made it out of the gully to tar without further incident. On the tar I gunned it to the local metropolis Ga-Nkoana, where I filled up at Total garage and contemplated my plans for the night. Google found number of places to stay nearby, but they were all of the 'African' variety - i.e. owned by locals, with the corresponding standards of hospitality. The gastrotourist in me was baying for a proper chow and naturally none of the establishments around offerent such a luxury as restaurant. I felt an urge to gun it to Steelpoort, but I would be there only past 9 - if I would manage to dodge all the local donkeys and drunk local population, so eventually I just bought few packets of biltong and peanuts and headed to one of the local guesthouses - Mohalapitsi guesthouse - to sleep over. At least I wouldn't have to commute back 80- 100 km back in the morning.
The guesthouse was fine, except with zero amenities, for example working fridge in the bar. I took three lukewarm beers anway and after delicious biltong / peanuts / Heineken combo, headed to bed early.