Day 1. Pretoria to Badplaas.
I scribbled the following on my blog in October of 2010.
I have a dream. I dream to take a motorcycle trip around rural South Africa, visiting all 9 provinces. The idea is to rarely going more than 400km on any given day. We will avoid all ‘N’ routes, popping into small, out of the way towns and finding out from the locals what makes them tick. I want to experience local food, and round it off with some good coffee and conversation. The emphasis will always be on stopping, rather than riding. I want to experience life away from the convenient. Gauteng , where I live, has become a fast-paced place of instant meals, instant cash, where ‘instant’ cannot happen fast enough. I want to experience life as it should be. There is just no way we can begin to plan this trip, save for a very vague outline of the intended route, and even that is not cast in stone. We intend to take pictures of people and places we come across, and listen intently to their story.
Coffee was the theme for the tour, and Mark and I stocked up on a lot of coffee. And I mean a LOT. We had 75 sachets made up. The idea was to consume as we went, but also to share the Java-spirit wherever we came. As you will find out as this story unfolds, we were ill-prepared for what lay ahead. But I guess that is what makes this an adventure.
The first day was going to be to Badplaas, unpack the bikes and ride through to the ghost-town on the other side of Barberton.
This is us, all packed and ready to go. The Harley carried the precious coffee and most of the tools we might need in case of a puncture. The rest of the luggage went on the Strom, and fully laden the bike coped perfectly. Coffee was supplied by Bean There and we had to get the T-shirt-shot.
As we snaked through the last bit of traffic, I felt the worries of the daily grind also leave me. We planned for this day for so long, and here we were. The Suzuki and the Harley rumbling along nicely. Past Cullinan we went, and onward to Bronkhorstspruit. We just kept going until we stopped at Balmoral. This place houses graves of people who died in concentration camps. There is a little museum depicting what life was like. As we dismounted we instinctively took cellphones out, worrying about work, but I had to force myself to say nay nay. There is something serene about a cemetery. I don't know if it just the wind through the trees, or the silence, but I, for one, simply cannot walk around a cemetery without being moved.
Because we wanted to avoid the N4, we went via Ogies, Kriel, Bethal, Hendrina, Carolina, and on to Badplaas. We stayed at Hlumu Lodge. A very basic setup away from the bustle of the Forever resort. The cabins are very basic but dinner and breakfast was skillfully prepared by Memory. He is the chef, and as far as I could gather, a Zimbabwean who became a chef in the Seychelles. His accent is very difficult to describe.
With so many roadworks holding us up, we knew Barberton was a bridge to far, so we took it easy and took some photos of the bikes, and went to the bar. We played a bit of pool and started chatting with the locals. Tamryn was serving behind the bar. An American girl all the way from Seattle. She was only in SA for 2 days, and still believed it was fun. I wonder how she's coping. Hlumu lodge is in the process of becoming a haven for animals and the place teemed with animals. But the star of the show was Bruce Banger. Little Bruce was the only survivor of a litter of 11 piglets. The owners thought none of the pigs were going to make it so the removed them from the mother. Because Bruce was taken away, he could not be reunited with his mother and is now hand-reared. One of the dogs adopted little Bruce and they are a comical combination.
After dinner we went to the cabin, only to discover that you can plan us much as you want, you always forget something. The laptop we carried with us, had no power. The cable neatly folded on my desk. At home. This meant that we could not download the daily tracklog. Well one thing is certain, nothing could prepare us for the cock-up Day 2 was going to be, but hey, ignorance is bliss !