Schalk
Pack Dog
“Why don’t you and the family join us in Jacobsbaai during the October holidays?” Avontuur said.” Sounds nice, I said, let’s look at it.
A few days later I called him up.”Hey, let’s take the bikes and ride down there” After some silence, sounds great, let’s do it”
See the thing is we live in Ellisras in the Limpopo province. From here to Jacobsbay on the West Coast lies a lot of land.
We started planning and were looking at the most adventure route from the Bushveld to the west coast. Time was as always a factor and we had roughly 7-8 days.
The Molopo, Askam, Namakwa 4x4 route (Pella to Alexander bay), the west coast, was definite route markers.
The plan was to take the 990 “s on the trip and try and stay of tar as far as we could.
The plan was to ride down, have holidays with the family, and time freight the bikes back.
A little sleep deprived I left my farm 50km from Ellisras to meet up with Avontuur.
The 2 “fat chicks” felt heavy and cumbersome but spirits was high, anxious to get on the dirt roads. Through Steenbokpan, then left to Cumberland all along the Botswana Border.
As we turn off on the dirt road Avontuur stopped to make a few adjustments. I got going to let my dust settle before he followed.
Waited about 10 Km’s ahead at the next turn-off. It was hot and I was looking on the horizon for a white dust cloud with a black spot.
A lone farmer's bakkie came from the front and greeted lazily as he passed.
I waited another 15 minutes.Wasn't very concerned at first.
After another 5 minutes I decided to turn back and check it out. I saw the farmer’s bakkie coming back my way, I knew something was wrong.
He stopped in a dustcloud.”Hey, your buddy fell himself and his bike "Moertoe”
It sounded surreal. We just started.Avontuur is an expert and in the 5 years that we do riding together I have hardly ever see him take a tumble. Except the time that he tried to kill (and managed) a cow with his KTM 300.
Avontuur laid on one side of the road and the fat chick on the other. His 2009 990 adventure was looking less adventurous. Avontuur also lost his, and he was bleeding through the nose. He was Ok though.
I knew the spot. There was a deep sand hole in the middle of the road about 80 meters from where he laid. He hit the hole in the middle. The 990 bottomed out and on landing he was on the “middel-mannetjie” After about 15 meters of snaking the bike finally high sided him at 120km/h, stuck his nose in the dirt first and tumbled for 60 meters. With 1200km’s on the clock the bike seemed to be a write-off.
Avontuur was a little shocked, but the disappointment for the 2 of us was big. As we were about 100km from Ellisras somebody came to pick him .I rode home. My wife’s eyes wide when she saw me back at 14h00.
With a broken nose and sore arm Avontuur got out not too bad.
He was scheduled with an operation in Pretoria on Monday.
On Friday I called him again.
“If the nose op goes well and we could swing it, why don’t we send the 640's down to Cape Town and then ride back?” I said. On Monday the 2 640”s was on their way to Jacobsbay.
On the same day Avontuur had his operation.
By Thursday we were all in Jacobsbay, including the bikes.
We got a second chance!
As the 640”s were not 100% prepared for the trip, we spend a few days doing it. I needed new chain and sprockets, Front wheel bearings. We met Suzbox in Vredenburg as he has a dealership there. He helped us getting a new battery, as well as a few minor adjustments we needed. He and some other “dogs” have done a trip to Louriesfontein (player 23 in Louriesfontein) recently, and the local knowledge proved to be very valuable.
After a good few days with the families it was finally time to get going.
Day 1
On Friday 2nd October we Left Jacobsbay.2 fully loaded 640”s, and a LONG WAY to the Bushveld.
We filled the bikes at Velddrift and started immediately on dirt roads. First was Redelinghuys. Soon all the weight of saying good bye was lifting, and the adventure started kicking in!
From Redlinghuys we went through Aurora, Eendevlei, The old Piekenierskloof pass, the Paleisheuwel road which basically threw us out onto tar about 5km from Clan William.
We had lunch in town and asked around. I have always been fascinated by the Cederberg Mountains, and was something I wanted to see.
“What bikes do you have?” says the owner of the grill. “Mountain bikes or road bikes?” Me and Avontuur look to each other with a grin.” E..Desert Bikes” I say, and left it there.
It was late afternoon when we left our lunch spot.
S-E towards Algeria, Kromrivier, Dwarsrivier en then turn North through the Cederberg Mountains towards Wuppertal. The scenery was amazing and we both mentioned that it was the best dual sport roads we have ever seen… Till now! That will change everyday for the next few days!
We camped at Kromrivier .That night by our little fire we were finally totally relaxed and excited. It all came together, we got a second chance!
Total 300Kms, 37Km tar, and 263Kms dirt.
As I crawled in my tent that night something felt familiar, don’t know what triggered it. I suddenly remembered 1993. I was backpacking across Europe and USA. In Florida I bought a Suzuki GS 850.
I toured around the Southern states on my GS 850, and drove from one spring break to the other. When evenings approached, I would find the nearest camping spot and Pitch my tent. I did that for 3 Months.
Day 2
Our tents were a little wet. Took some time to get going. First we visit the “Stadsaal caves” We are ecstatic with the roads, the views and the unknown terrain were going to traverse today. No destination for today.
Check out these graffiti, are they for real?
As we turned North on the 4x4 route the road becomes a 640 heaven. The suspension bottoms out often, but still fun. The weight on the bike is something to get use to. It has almost no characteristics of a bike. We learn quickly to handle them, but with some respect. We still have to go more than 3000Km! We cross several streams. Stop often to smell the roses! The terrain is rugged, remote.
We found these falls somewhere towards Wupperthal, look out for a small hand painted sign “Falls”
The gorge is deep, the water clean. It tastes good.
The views on this stretch are awesome. I suddenly realize that this part of the country was made for dual sport adventures.
We have a late breakfast in Wupperthal.
From where we sit you can watch the white dirt roads snaking up the mountains. With this inviting picture we finish our meal and hop on.
The roads are great and the bikes enjoy the twisters and faster dirt sections.
The direction is towards Nieuwoudville, Louriesfontein. We visit he falls outside Nieuwoudville.
Just before Loeriesfontein we turn left.
These roads are graded, just had a bit of rain a few days before, and no hidden sand pots!
We realize in the afternoon we have no plan. Check the maps and shoot for Garies . We hang on the cables all afternoon, doing around 130kph. The roads take us through farms and gates, plenty of them.
We filled in Clanwilliam the day before. As the day stretches we realize that we just might not make it with Gas.
We stop at these guys and ask for gas. The first thing we got offered was a bath! Did the 350 km on dirt make us look dirty?
We got 3 liters each, they also offered a bed and sweet wine, but we declined.
We had another 50 km to garies.12 Gates and a beautiful road to Garies.
We pulled in Garies right at dark.
This must have been my best day on a bike in my Life!
Tar 40km
Dirt 360 km
Total 400km
We decided to book into the Garies hotel for the night. We envisioned open bar, friendly people and just a great Saturday night. First and only mistake on the whole trip!
The staff was nasty. They got promised a night off starting at 6pm. Here we arrive right at 6. Hungry, thirsty and dirty.
We were told to order quickly, both bar and restaurant, no service on Sunday and pay cash upfront.
OK, so we ordered, lamb chops, many beers and more beers.
The staff basically locked us in the hotel and left at 7h30.
We had the whole hotel for ourselves. Found some after hour beer salesman and enjoy the rest of the evening on the verandah watching over downtown Garies.
Whereto tomorrow?
Day 3
Sunday morning in Garies.
We find the Koperketel open for breakfast. Quite good.
Avontuur is extra slow this morning .The sjebeen beer must have something to do with it.
With full tanks we crawl unto the tar and find the turn-off to “Hondeklipbaai”.The scenery immediately turns fantastic with the last remains of the flowers. Roads are 640 heaven. We reach hondeklipbaai midmorning. Funeral goers look up when we slowly pass them towards the ocean. We stop at the edge and pass a few moments admiring the beautiful sight of the sea.
It lies quiet in the Sunday morning as the 2 desert bikes idle thru. We decide to try and stick to the coast.
As I read reports of locals it is quite a challenge to find coastal roads and traverse without permits. Soon we were cut off by mine fences and have to turn to the dirt roads that run further inland. I am amazed by the devastation of the mining industry in the area.
Koingnaas was sleeping too. We had no option but to take the tar road to Kleinsee. We find this backpacker’s camp at one of the bays,” Back to Basics”
The place has a lot of character and we find these 2 guys there.
They are Photographing Butterflies for a book they are putting together. They show us a very interesting “multi horned adder” (snake) which are only found in this area. Would be a very nice place to stay over.
We then took the dirt road inland to Port Nolloth. Nice dirt road. Saw a lot of mining activity along the coast, and with no knowledge of the area we were reluctant to enter the maize of fences and try and find a road along the coast. Maybe next time we will spend more time finding out about these different options.
It was late afternoon when we drove into Port Nolloth. We turned left and ended up in Mcdougal’s bay. Found this very eccentric character with his shack on the edge of the water.
Found this agency which rents out several flats, rooms and houses.
We got a real nice condo. Our last night at the sea.
Tar 70km
Dirt Road.200 km
Total 270km
Breakfast was also provided by Port Indigo and was excellent.
A few days later I called him up.”Hey, let’s take the bikes and ride down there” After some silence, sounds great, let’s do it”
See the thing is we live in Ellisras in the Limpopo province. From here to Jacobsbay on the West Coast lies a lot of land.
We started planning and were looking at the most adventure route from the Bushveld to the west coast. Time was as always a factor and we had roughly 7-8 days.
The Molopo, Askam, Namakwa 4x4 route (Pella to Alexander bay), the west coast, was definite route markers.
The plan was to take the 990 “s on the trip and try and stay of tar as far as we could.
The plan was to ride down, have holidays with the family, and time freight the bikes back.
A little sleep deprived I left my farm 50km from Ellisras to meet up with Avontuur.
The 2 “fat chicks” felt heavy and cumbersome but spirits was high, anxious to get on the dirt roads. Through Steenbokpan, then left to Cumberland all along the Botswana Border.
As we turn off on the dirt road Avontuur stopped to make a few adjustments. I got going to let my dust settle before he followed.
Waited about 10 Km’s ahead at the next turn-off. It was hot and I was looking on the horizon for a white dust cloud with a black spot.
A lone farmer's bakkie came from the front and greeted lazily as he passed.
I waited another 15 minutes.Wasn't very concerned at first.
After another 5 minutes I decided to turn back and check it out. I saw the farmer’s bakkie coming back my way, I knew something was wrong.
He stopped in a dustcloud.”Hey, your buddy fell himself and his bike "Moertoe”
It sounded surreal. We just started.Avontuur is an expert and in the 5 years that we do riding together I have hardly ever see him take a tumble. Except the time that he tried to kill (and managed) a cow with his KTM 300.
Avontuur laid on one side of the road and the fat chick on the other. His 2009 990 adventure was looking less adventurous. Avontuur also lost his, and he was bleeding through the nose. He was Ok though.
I knew the spot. There was a deep sand hole in the middle of the road about 80 meters from where he laid. He hit the hole in the middle. The 990 bottomed out and on landing he was on the “middel-mannetjie” After about 15 meters of snaking the bike finally high sided him at 120km/h, stuck his nose in the dirt first and tumbled for 60 meters. With 1200km’s on the clock the bike seemed to be a write-off.
Avontuur was a little shocked, but the disappointment for the 2 of us was big. As we were about 100km from Ellisras somebody came to pick him .I rode home. My wife’s eyes wide when she saw me back at 14h00.
With a broken nose and sore arm Avontuur got out not too bad.
He was scheduled with an operation in Pretoria on Monday.
On Friday I called him again.
“If the nose op goes well and we could swing it, why don’t we send the 640's down to Cape Town and then ride back?” I said. On Monday the 2 640”s was on their way to Jacobsbay.
On the same day Avontuur had his operation.
By Thursday we were all in Jacobsbay, including the bikes.
We got a second chance!
As the 640”s were not 100% prepared for the trip, we spend a few days doing it. I needed new chain and sprockets, Front wheel bearings. We met Suzbox in Vredenburg as he has a dealership there. He helped us getting a new battery, as well as a few minor adjustments we needed. He and some other “dogs” have done a trip to Louriesfontein (player 23 in Louriesfontein) recently, and the local knowledge proved to be very valuable.
After a good few days with the families it was finally time to get going.
Day 1
On Friday 2nd October we Left Jacobsbay.2 fully loaded 640”s, and a LONG WAY to the Bushveld.
We filled the bikes at Velddrift and started immediately on dirt roads. First was Redelinghuys. Soon all the weight of saying good bye was lifting, and the adventure started kicking in!
From Redlinghuys we went through Aurora, Eendevlei, The old Piekenierskloof pass, the Paleisheuwel road which basically threw us out onto tar about 5km from Clan William.
We had lunch in town and asked around. I have always been fascinated by the Cederberg Mountains, and was something I wanted to see.
“What bikes do you have?” says the owner of the grill. “Mountain bikes or road bikes?” Me and Avontuur look to each other with a grin.” E..Desert Bikes” I say, and left it there.
It was late afternoon when we left our lunch spot.
S-E towards Algeria, Kromrivier, Dwarsrivier en then turn North through the Cederberg Mountains towards Wuppertal. The scenery was amazing and we both mentioned that it was the best dual sport roads we have ever seen… Till now! That will change everyday for the next few days!
We camped at Kromrivier .That night by our little fire we were finally totally relaxed and excited. It all came together, we got a second chance!
Total 300Kms, 37Km tar, and 263Kms dirt.
As I crawled in my tent that night something felt familiar, don’t know what triggered it. I suddenly remembered 1993. I was backpacking across Europe and USA. In Florida I bought a Suzuki GS 850.
I toured around the Southern states on my GS 850, and drove from one spring break to the other. When evenings approached, I would find the nearest camping spot and Pitch my tent. I did that for 3 Months.
Day 2
Our tents were a little wet. Took some time to get going. First we visit the “Stadsaal caves” We are ecstatic with the roads, the views and the unknown terrain were going to traverse today. No destination for today.
Check out these graffiti, are they for real?
As we turned North on the 4x4 route the road becomes a 640 heaven. The suspension bottoms out often, but still fun. The weight on the bike is something to get use to. It has almost no characteristics of a bike. We learn quickly to handle them, but with some respect. We still have to go more than 3000Km! We cross several streams. Stop often to smell the roses! The terrain is rugged, remote.
We found these falls somewhere towards Wupperthal, look out for a small hand painted sign “Falls”
The gorge is deep, the water clean. It tastes good.
The views on this stretch are awesome. I suddenly realize that this part of the country was made for dual sport adventures.
We have a late breakfast in Wupperthal.
From where we sit you can watch the white dirt roads snaking up the mountains. With this inviting picture we finish our meal and hop on.
The roads are great and the bikes enjoy the twisters and faster dirt sections.
The direction is towards Nieuwoudville, Louriesfontein. We visit he falls outside Nieuwoudville.
Just before Loeriesfontein we turn left.
These roads are graded, just had a bit of rain a few days before, and no hidden sand pots!
We realize in the afternoon we have no plan. Check the maps and shoot for Garies . We hang on the cables all afternoon, doing around 130kph. The roads take us through farms and gates, plenty of them.
We filled in Clanwilliam the day before. As the day stretches we realize that we just might not make it with Gas.
We stop at these guys and ask for gas. The first thing we got offered was a bath! Did the 350 km on dirt make us look dirty?
We got 3 liters each, they also offered a bed and sweet wine, but we declined.
We had another 50 km to garies.12 Gates and a beautiful road to Garies.
We pulled in Garies right at dark.
This must have been my best day on a bike in my Life!
Tar 40km
Dirt 360 km
Total 400km
We decided to book into the Garies hotel for the night. We envisioned open bar, friendly people and just a great Saturday night. First and only mistake on the whole trip!
The staff was nasty. They got promised a night off starting at 6pm. Here we arrive right at 6. Hungry, thirsty and dirty.
We were told to order quickly, both bar and restaurant, no service on Sunday and pay cash upfront.
OK, so we ordered, lamb chops, many beers and more beers.
The staff basically locked us in the hotel and left at 7h30.
We had the whole hotel for ourselves. Found some after hour beer salesman and enjoy the rest of the evening on the verandah watching over downtown Garies.
Whereto tomorrow?
Day 3
Sunday morning in Garies.
We find the Koperketel open for breakfast. Quite good.
Avontuur is extra slow this morning .The sjebeen beer must have something to do with it.
With full tanks we crawl unto the tar and find the turn-off to “Hondeklipbaai”.The scenery immediately turns fantastic with the last remains of the flowers. Roads are 640 heaven. We reach hondeklipbaai midmorning. Funeral goers look up when we slowly pass them towards the ocean. We stop at the edge and pass a few moments admiring the beautiful sight of the sea.
It lies quiet in the Sunday morning as the 2 desert bikes idle thru. We decide to try and stick to the coast.
As I read reports of locals it is quite a challenge to find coastal roads and traverse without permits. Soon we were cut off by mine fences and have to turn to the dirt roads that run further inland. I am amazed by the devastation of the mining industry in the area.
Koingnaas was sleeping too. We had no option but to take the tar road to Kleinsee. We find this backpacker’s camp at one of the bays,” Back to Basics”
The place has a lot of character and we find these 2 guys there.
They are Photographing Butterflies for a book they are putting together. They show us a very interesting “multi horned adder” (snake) which are only found in this area. Would be a very nice place to stay over.
We then took the dirt road inland to Port Nolloth. Nice dirt road. Saw a lot of mining activity along the coast, and with no knowledge of the area we were reluctant to enter the maize of fences and try and find a road along the coast. Maybe next time we will spend more time finding out about these different options.
It was late afternoon when we drove into Port Nolloth. We turned left and ended up in Mcdougal’s bay. Found this very eccentric character with his shack on the edge of the water.
Found this agency which rents out several flats, rooms and houses.
We got a real nice condo. Our last night at the sea.
Tar 70km
Dirt Road.200 km
Total 270km
Breakfast was also provided by Port Indigo and was excellent.
