Virgin Sand In Kaokoland (a post lockdown adventure)

[Greenshields]

There is of course the problem that that area is off limits.
You are only allowed to travel through with a concession holder group.

 

[BoskakBruce]

Thanks for the inspiring pics. What a trip that must have been. That's definintely somewhere I'll return too - next time with a LOT of fuel

This whole section could be much more doable by leaving all travel luggage and camping equipment at Ben’s shop.  Hypothetically speaking, this could be an interesting expedition.

I like your thinking. Hypothetically, of course!

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[stroke her]

There is of course the problem that that area is off limits.
You are only allowed to travel through with a concession holder group.

This was my impression as well but I do not have anything "in writing" to substantiate....

 

[Chrisl]

I did that section with a well organised 4wd convoy

I saw a documentary about that section done by 4x4's. There is some serious sand there towards the Kunene mouth!!

 

[ETS]

Bliksem! Very good very nice report thank you sooooo much

 

[Kingchi]

"....I was feeling very uncomfortable. I could see us finding a way over one or two dunes and then ending in a hole that would take us ages (and too much water and fuel) to get out of again. A breakdown at that point would be a bit more than a minor hassle.  I told Bruce he can go that way if he wants to but I am taking the easiest way out again. I am not stopping anyone else’s fun but I know when I want to get out of somewhere. And today was not my day.  As you will have read so far Bruce was determined that not a grain of Namibian sand would be missed. I was willing to leave a few for a future return trip.  And I was tired, very tired. In my usual enthusiasm I had not allowed for rest days in the planning. When Bruce and Marc suggested a rest day at Epupa I was wondering what kind of wussies they were. I had not realized how much this ride was taking out of me and how smart they were to suggest a day for rest and maintenance."

  ;D Oh boy! I know that feeling. When Bruce and I ride I usually blame that feeling on him..."In what kind of trouble are you getting me into now?" "Are we going to be able to get out of here?!" "No more exploring, please!" <3...I demand the easy route out and extra rest days in return for my suffering (which I secretly enjoy).

Although, after I look back on the experience, it wouldn't have been near as fun if I had a choice in it. You gotta love Bruce's determination!

I'm so grateful you were there for him and can't wait to meet you  :love4:

 

[BoskakBruce]

I wake up to the sound of birds chirping and replay yesterday’s incredible adventure in my mind while savoring my last moments in a comfy bed.

I make coffee while Marc prepares oats for us for breakfast.

Every morning, breakfast signals my bowels to empty themselves like clockwork.

Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about kakking… and if it’s OK with you, I’d like to share what I’ve learned about how to kak properly while on a bike tour.

A couple of years ago, I was Banting. Because Banting involves mostly eating fat, I started taking Psyllium Husk to supplement my fiber intake.

One of the may positive side effects of taking Psyllium Husk is that it makes your kak solid.

Why is this a good thing?

Boskakking!

There’s nothing worse than a boskak that doesn’t go well - especially in motorcycle gear. Psyllium Husk makes it a one-and-done deal. That also means that you pollute the bos less, because you use much less toilet paper.

I mix a teaspoon of Psyllium Husk with a teaspoon of dehydrated greens (a kind powdered salad that I always carry with me) in a shaker bottle each morning.

Try it! It will transform your boskaks. I digress…

 

[BoskakBruce]

We’re definitely getting slower at packing up in the morning. I think it’s the length and intensity of the trip catching up with us.
But spirits are still high.

Today’s big mission is to find fuel. The local guy we met in the campsite last night has agreed to sell us 15 liters of his fuel that he’s using to run his generator. What a legend.

That gets us 100km – 125km. But that’s not enough for what we have planned. The plan is to camp tonight near the Huab River and continue tomorrow to Palmwag – probably 400km in total before our next fuel station in Palmwag.

We don’t know if we can get fuel in Purros, so we’re going to stop everywhere we can today and buy as much fuel as possible. If we can’t find fuel, we’ll need to cut our route short, which none of us want to do.

Once loaded up, we head to the abandoned Marble Mine to check it out. It’s an impressive quarry, spoiled only by graffiti. It’s impressive how large the blocks of marble are.

 

[BoskakBruce]

We snap some photos and head on into the Otjiha Plains.

The morning light is gorgeous and I get left behind again taking photos, which means I have to blast to catch Marc and Jan Lucas, who are riding swiftly.

 

[BoskakBruce]

It’s really fun to be riding with a bunch of guys who are all at a similar skill level. There is no weakest link between us.
At this point in the trip, Marc hasn’t come off his bike once – and it’s not like he’s been riding slowly either. Jan Lucas has fallen a few times, and I’ve fallen almost every day.

My motto has become, “If you’re not falling, you’re not trying hard enough!” at least, that’s how I justify it

I usually fall because I’m doing dumb **** beyond my skill level – like when I exited a river-bed too fast a few days ago…

I came across a hole in the sand that would swallow my front wheel. There was no time to stop, so I instinctively lofted the front wheel over the hole, only to find a knee-height step right after the hole.

Miraculously, I gassed it and somehow lifted front wheel again - over and up the step… but just when I thought I was home free, the step turned into a rock garden that forced an unscheduled dismount. Fortunately, nobody was looking.

That’s the kind of dumb **** I’m always doing. Anyhow…

We arrive at the Orupenbe shop and ask around for fuel. Nobody has any, so we continue towards Purros.

 

[BoskakBruce]

We’re making a good pace down the Khumib 4x4 trail. The riding alternates between stony roads and sandy riverbeds.
   
Around 11:30, we find a small spot of shade (hard to do in the desert) and stop for tea and soup; now a crucial part of our group daily ritual.

 

[BoskakBruce]

Shortly after brunch, we enter the Hourusib Riverbed. I can see it in the distance as I descend the mountain track. It looks like an oasis in the distance. Just gorgeous.

 

[BoskakBruce]

As we enter the riverbed, we spot a guy standing next to a makeshift stall.

Marc immediately recognizes him from the previous time he was here and stops to buy a wooden toy. He chooses a really cool truck, with doors and a tailgate that open and close.

Marc collects these things and is thrilled with his purchase. The guy running the stand is happy too because I guess we’re the first people he’s seen in a while.

 

[BoskakBruce]

And then we hit the most epic sandy trail…

You know how a bull charges when it sees red? Well, I do the same when I see white – white sand.

The riding is so much fun and the contrast between the white sand, the brown mountains and the greenery is breathtaking.

 

[BoskakBruce]

We’re closing in on Purros as Marc hits reserve on his bike. That’s not good. He should have at least 10 liters left in his tank at this point.

This could be a problem because if we can’t get fuel in Purros, we’re not heading down the Purros Canyon.

We arrive in Purros and our first stop is to local shop to get supplies and find out where to buy fuel. The lady behind the counter directs us to Colin’s house not far away. Apparently, Colin does have fuel.

We’re relieved and decide to stock up on water and camp food for tonight’s campfire.

I suggest that we buy spaghetti. Jan Lucas grabs a few tins of Chakalaka. That’s good enough for me!

Marc stocks up his backup vehicle with pilchards – also a group staple at this point.

 

[BoskakBruce]

We head over to meet Colin and buy 45 liters of fuel.

Colin’s place is like every other place we’ve bought fuel on this trip – a back yard with a few drums of petrol.

We park the bikes under a shady tree and are prepared to pay Colin whatever he asks for the fuel. Surprisingly, he’s cheaper than Ben’s place on the Marienfluss and only R125 for 5 liters.

 

[BoskakBruce]

I’m relieved we have fuel because I’m really looking forward to riding through the canyon.
From all the photos I’ve seen of Purros Canyon, it looks lush and filled with wildlife.
We thank Colin and head off into the Canyon.

It’s so different from where we’ve come from – wet and green.

Within minutes, my boots are already dripping from 5 river crossings.

I begin practicing my wheelies over the river crossings. I still suck at wheelies. I can lift the front, but can’t keep it in the air for long. That means I can cross tree trunks, but I can’t impress the local kids who always want me to wheelie for them.

We spot gemsbok, donkeys, and birds everywhere. Sadly, we can’t see the lions or elephants. Perhaps they’re sleeping.

It’s turning out to be a great day – not as exciting or dramatic as yesterday, but lovely riding and great views nonetheless. We’re all feeling good.

 

[BoskakBruce]

As we exit the canyon, we begin blasting south. I can almost smell the sea air as we get closer and closer to the Skeleton Coast.

At one point, Marc and I are in the lead and we take a wrong turn. I quicky realize we’re going the wrong way and signal Marc to turnaround.

We backtrack to the place where we had missed the turnoff and see Jan Lucas ahead of us. I later find out that he hasn’t seen us, so still thinks that we are in front of him.

He speeds up, riding faster and faster to “catch up” with us. Except, we’re behind him trying to keep up with him, thinking that he’s just having fun.

This goes on for about 15 minutes – Jan Lucas never realizing that we’re chasing him. He’s a fast rider who used to race, so it’s hard work catching him. Eventually, when I
pass him, he looks puzzled to see me.

We stop and share the story. The wind is howling and we’re tired after our 15-minute “race”.

Marc needs comforting and so gets down in the sand and starts playing with his new toy. He provides some much-needed comic relief. We’re getting tired and it’s good to laugh.

 

[BoskakBruce]

The route opens up into a gorgeous sandy plain which keeps us entertained until we arrive at Amspoort Gorge – a beautiful spot on the Huab river.

 

[BoskakBruce]

We find a sheltered spot and set up camp in the sand.

After setting up my tent, I climb to the top of a koppie and snap these pics.