Wild Coast Adventure

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jverster

Pack Dog
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
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Location
Somerset West
Bike
KTM 990 Adventure
Six guys decided to trip from Durban to East London through the old Transkei. This is most probably one of the most well preserved nature sites in the country.
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Four of the six came from Somerset West  and Stellenbosch and the other two were locals from Durban. Getting the bikes to Durban was either going to be a long-haul or a trailer / local flight combo. We chose the latter as the trip from Stellenbosch to Durban would have added 3 days both ways and would also add some expenses that was not in the budget. So we trailered-up 4 bikes that we're kindly received at UMHLANGA MOTORRAD BMW.

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The dealer at BMW Umhlanga organised some Red Bull girls to see us off. Now that's service !!
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Packing up the gear in Umhlanga.
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Soon we were at Port Edward for the first night. The local camp site is situated on the beach with splendid facilities. The guys immediately started camping old school style. Beers and boerewors. This was going to be a fantastic trip.
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Home made bread was on the menu.
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To be continued ...
 
Jis boet, please don't quote the whole post, pics and all. Us okes on 3G suffer  :thumleft:.

Subscribed !!!!
 
So that first night I do a little inspection on the Dakars which days before had been serviced and had some off road tyres fitted. I found that both bikes had practically lost their front axle securing bolts. This is the one that fix the front wheel to the front fork. We’d been travelling from Durban to Port Edward with loose front bolts. We were seconds away from some serious pain.
Fortunately, some locals from Port Shepstone (who had not been braaiing) helped us out with spare bolts. They popped in, helped us fit the bolts and were off again. Nice guys.


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The next morning was crisp and we were ready at the crack of dawn. The South  Coast is absolutely beautifil and unlike the West Coast the sun wakes you up from across the ocean. Very special times.

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Now during June of every year something special occurs on the eastern shores of the country. It's Sardine Fever and millions of sardines move up close to the shore in what is known as the annual Sardine Run.
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For those of you knowledgeable  to makers of vino you will notice that Simonsig features in various pictures and this is certainly not by any chance. We had carefully selected our companions for this trip and no one other than Mr Pieter Malan from Simonsig accompanied us (with the necessaries) on the journey. Here Mr. Malan is carefully dispensing the contents of a glass vessel into a more practical plastic vessel in preparation for the journey.
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To be continued ...
 
Finally we get to the start of the REAL trip. And it's well signed posted as well.
Now you can cross the Wild Coast in many ways but try and hug the beach as close as possible (without going to jail) and you're in for something really different.


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Right from the start we knew the going was going to be tuff. We'd selected a route that almost neverallow the sea to leave our sight. That meant river crossings galore and single track which are actually local footpaths.

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Bart , the rider of the GS Adventure was aptly named "The Mahut" . It means the Elephant rider and later the Adventure was called the "Mahut" Now lugging a 400kg load on 2 wheels over soft sand was always going to ask a little bit more.
Here's Bart preparing to cross the first river.
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And here's Bart, Piet  and the Mahut all taking a break after the first crossing. I love the way the Mahut just sits and waits there. Like it knows there is so much more it's going to dish out it better give the guys a break.

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And then finally across the river and up the single track through the bush. You've got to love that for the first 5km on the trip.
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Having reached some higher ground and cleaning some sand and salt water from the bikes we soon learnt that hugging the coast meant exactly that. Without going into any geographical details I must just point out that the coastline in the Wild Coast is characterized by a fairly steep embankment were the land meets the ocean. This means that if the footpaths become unmanageable you have no choice but to head down onto the beach and briskly move on to the next “exit” where you’ll find some more acceptable footpaths.
I say this tongue in cheek but nowhere in SA are vehicles allowed on the beach and especially in the Wild Coast. This is one of our last sanctuaries and thanks to some wisemen have been protected from invasion.
So I feel really bad for laying some tracks on the unspoiled beaches but completely elated that I could have experienced at least a little bit of that freedom that riding next to the ocean brings.


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Another highly illegal move but without which would never have reached the campsite in time.
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And finally the campsite. The only other people here are the locals across the lagoon.
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After a fantastic lunch we head up the hills again. If the embankment is not rock it is sand. This one has both and is very tricky to get over without a tumble or two. He guys are still fresh and most of them can still pick their bikes up without the other coming to help lifting the heavy load. When the Mahut goes down it needs more than one  guy to pick her up. ***** = Elephant rider.

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The hills take their toll. Somehow the bikes fight the riders like wild horses. We have not yet made peace with these animals. Mr. Sinibaldi gets chowed on the inside of his leg and Pieter is drained from within.

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We finally arrive at Mtentu campsite. Bart is victorious and immediately starts celebrating. It’s Day 1 and we’ve got 8 more to go. Stadig oor die klippertjies (Slowly over the pebbles or something like that).

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The camping facilities at Mtentu are  first class. Chairs, tables and a proper fireplace. The guys quickly settle in for a proper rest.
Notice how that decanted Simopnsig in the plastic vessel has taken a beating. It must have sprung a slow puncture during all those rocky sections earlier the day.The manne are pretty stuffed and Mr. Sinibaldi is now bleeding freely between his legs. Eina !
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The view from the tented huts are spectacular. The Mtentu river feeds into the ocean down below.
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Another sunrise of grand proportions awakes the group. The showers here are solar heated and are still luke-warm after the night. Quite a pleasant surprise. Piet starts the morning with a little Yoga and prepares his mind to be blown away.


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To be continued ....
 
Now I know this is my first trip report  and so far I've gor 2 guys provding some motivation to continue with the story. I looked at the other posts and see tons of people subscribing and motivating for more.
Am I missing the point here or what ?
Please advise !    :( :( :(
 
Dude don`t stop now  ???

Most people are far away from their addiction that is Wilddogs and are busy riding their bikes, busy recording their trips  :ricky:

December is a quiet time on the forum as most are having fun  :thumleft:

Carry on please  :deal:
 
OK Glen . Point taken. I'm about halfway now. There's however a few other super trips that needs reporting on.
I'll try to persist in these quite times.  ;D
 
JP, it is because you need to beg the other guys to actually continue with the report :)
Some guys manage to post a 5 day report over a month :)

Good going and please continue
 
The government is finally spending some money on the roads in the Kei. That's quite surprising seeing that Madiba comes from there. Here we're riding through the smoke of a veld fire which never posed any risk at any time. The people of the Old Kei are very respectful towards their land. Something I missed in Mozambique and some of the other African countries.

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On the highlands a few km's from the coast the Wild Coast quickly becomes grasslands with almost no trees in sight. However, once you get close to the coast the landscape changes quickly and often you enter forest-like areas that are just amazing.  


Some more later...

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Awesome stuff!!! Man, I love the Transkei, nothing quite like it anywhere on earth.
 
Thanks Snafu and Buff.

So let me add a few tidbits more.

The previous pic is the road to Mbotyi. What a spot. Here we are settling in for another proper sit-down dinner. We don't hold back on travel cooking, camping style. The locals stores provide everything you need and more. The shebeens are loaded with all the best and outside locals offer goodies for a peace-pipe. Now who would have expected that....

We stay in huts and bungalows as much as possible. We don't have to skimp on these little luxuries, it's cheap and we can afford it. The locals have a share in these businesses , so support them I say.


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After a great rest we beat the the big red ball to the horizon. Not a soul in sight. This is the place for me.

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Some more pics later.
 
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