Across the Roof of Africa

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S

shark_za

Guest
I left a little late on Wednesday and had to contend with rush hour traffic in JHB, it didnt bother me as I was on my way to go and enjoy riding across the little mountain kingdom of Lesotho.
I definately overloaded the bike, took a bit too much stuff with me and the bike was not handling as well as it should have.
I hit the N3 all the way to Harrismith, dual purpose riding is about being able to do both tar and dirt. I was out of Harrismith by 10H30 after having the customary Nandos, through the middle of town and out the other end to hit the first dirt.

Scenery was typical of the Free State right here where it borders Natal.
Flat with mountains in the distance
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I followed this dirt road for a few kilometers and then turned left onto the approach to Bezuidenhouts Pass.
Well if this is a pass, not many people pass down here. The track was quite overgrown but I could still make out the route and follwed if for another few km's.

The conditions of the approach
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The scenery was getting much better and instead of mountains in the distance I started riding between them
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I passed an unlocked gate and was greeted by the pass decending the same escarpment that Oliviershoek, Van Reenens, Normendien, etc passes go down.
Only difference was this one needed to be taken a little slower than the others. I would have loved an unladen bike or a proper dirt bike for this bit.
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I was alone out there and there were no people for miles, lovely!
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Some of the pass was tricky and specially so with the loaded KLR.
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This took me a little longer than I planned so in Bergville I let JonW know via SMS (no answer on the phone) I was running a little late and I headed for the N3 again to race to Mooi River.
Shooting the tollgate I arrived in Nottingham road at the arranged meeting spot to find nobody was there.
Cell phone on... 11 voicemails later and I heard Jon had headed to Himeville already.
So I turned around and took the Loteni road to Himeville myself, the time was around 14H30 by now.

The scenery on this road was also something else, but I was riding fast and didnt really have time to take awesome pics like the ones bmad did.

I did stop for a short bit to have some water and check cell messages , the typical scene along this road.
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One thing about this, and as it turned out it was the same all through Lesotho, was a lot of blind rises that almost always turn at the top.
I almost went plowing on one occasion and was almost high sided when a slide suddenly gripped and asked me to slow down.

I got word from Jon that he was heading up the pass and best I make it before 16H00 as it closes then.

I twisted the throttle and rode like someone trying to make the cutoff time in some race, arriving at the Border at about 15H59. JonW was there, he has even arranged for them to keep the place open for me for another 15 minutes if I didnt make it in time. 8)

Formalities done and we rode up the pass, even taking it really slowly had us at the top in short time. A bike is really the implement of choice for riding up there.
Even so, we could take it easy and enjoy the scenery. I was my first time up the pass and JonW says the conditions were pretty mild for Sani.
I could not comment, the road was average with a few sections of exposed rock but nothing to write home about. Nothing like Bez Pass thats for sure.
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The shadows were long at this time of day, the pub was calling.
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Must have a pic with the sign !
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At the top we went to the bar and had a few Maluti's, not a bad beer at all.
We met an American and his Australian g/f and ended up going to the backpackers lodge and having a Braai with them, American style.
Thanks to Ben and Mel for sharing thier grub, we appreciated it.
I did a B double E double R U N back to the bar and returned with a backpack full of the golden nectar for our consumption.

We spent the night listening to stories about thier travels (7th year on a Round The World yacht trip) and then went to bed.

Day 2 to follow...
 
Great stuff ! Those passes looks like great fun, how did the 606 hold up on the tar ?
 
ei! i am never tired of seeing these pics ....
beautiful :thumbright: :thumbright:
 
Aieee bwana what you do to me.
Magnificent shots - makes me wannna be there like you can't believe. Soon, hopefully :D :D
That Bez pass looks like an interesting ride - is it shown on maps?
Cheers
 
Great pics!

Maybe a bit of a risk taking on the Bez on your own? Looks quite technical. (For me anyway) :wink:
 
Welcome back Sharkie, some awesome pics there and the start of an awesome report. Keep it coming...

It IS LATER ALREADY!!!
 
Looks great, did the KLR have any problems with the altitude?

Give me a shout when you want to do the wheel bearings.

Welsh 8) :D
 
It was good meeting you Shark, nice to be able to put a face to the name. 8) Pity we did not ride together more.... We also had a great outing, will post a story once I have some more pics from the rest of the team.

Looking forward to the rest of your story! :)
 
Very nice report and beautiful pictures. I will take on these roads and Bez pass with nothing bigger than my TW200 Yammie I think, and without any luggage too! Thanks.

D 8)
 
AWESOME, but those rocks :shock: :shock: :shock:
Looking forward to the rest.
 
The beds and showers at the backpackers in Sani were ok, we packed up and headed to the chalet area for breakfast as the backpackers was down the road a little in the town.
We were hoping to meet MetalJockey who had apparently missed the border closing at 16H00. We had breakfast and hung around till just before 9:00 before we decided we should head out and start the days riding.
Pity we missed you MJ.

Jon on the green KLR sporting his new Airoh.
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Our plan was to ride from Sani in the east of Lesotho to Maseru in the west, come on its only 175km as the crow flies.
As it turns out we were not crows and had to follow the roads to get to the other side.
The roads were in good condition but we were only averaging 50kph-60kph as the roads were never straight for more than 200m at a time.
This was stunning riding, either decending or climbing the whole way. Up, over or around some of the most pectacular mountains I have been in.

This is looking back down Kotisephola Pass (I think) see the road snaking though the valley.
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While Sani is often called the highest pub in Africa we though we should open a pub at the top of this pass as its at least 400m higher.

The profile of the route Sani to Mokhotlong.
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As I didnt fill up in Himeville the day before I though it wise to get some fuel in Mokhotlong just in case there was none available in Thaba Tseka.
This had us doing a detour of 10.5km into the town and back out to find juice. I think the Lesotho people get confused with distances, a sign board said Excel fuel 1km to the right at the T junction and that turned out to be 5km. Hey, its thier country. :roll:
Guys were friendly and we filled up here. S29 17.301 E29 03.070

Typical winding road
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There is a lot of water in Lesotho, the road ran along rivers and every so often we would see streams crossing the road to feed it.
Can you see JonW riding out ahead of me? The scale of the landscapes was amazing.
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We stopped at "Crocodile" and had a cooldrink, here you can see the overloaded KLR, that bag on top of the top box was a last minute addition to handle the extra junk I took with.
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More of the roads, see JonW on the corner again. The thing with Lesotho is you want to travel 1km across the valley and you have to ride about 4km in a zig zag manner to get there. Awesome riding.
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Just a few more shots to show the road conditions. A lot of blind rises and as mentioned before the only thing that was almost certian at the top of these rises was a sharp turn to the left or right. The roads were in good shape overall, just certian areas on uphills where the rain had washed away the dirt and exposed a bit of rock.
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We then got to the mighty Senqu river and it was a bit of an anticlimax to see the whole bridge exposed and no dangerous river crossing for us.
Oh well, we were prepared at least.
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While filling up again in Thaba Tseka we bumped into a local DS biker. Although in Lesotho terms its all single sport, not much tar in this area at all.
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On the subject of the locals, we had absolutely no problems with stone throwing and the like, we slowed down when we approached people with livestock and waved at people who waved at us. It was a really friendly and everyone had a happy face. When we stopped to refuel we were approached by some dodgy looking guys out to make a buck but we just kept it all friendly and chatted. No problem.

Out there everything is done with horses, oxen or donkeys. Goats and sheep abound and my closest shave was with a frikken dog in Ramabanta just before I left there.

Speaking of close shaves, that bag that was strapped to the topbox decided it was time to get off the bike, this would be fine but it also decided to jump down onto the rear wheel and then get carried under the seat and lock up said rear wheel.
One bag ripped to shreds, the clothing inside was melted or ripped.
I tied it up and carried on. I thought it was my chain going and was almost relieved to see everything was still mechanically sound on the bike. Phew.

We were starting to run out of time, this little cross lesotho ride was starting to take longer than we thought and waiting till 9:00 to depart was something playing in our minds. We finally hit tar with about 85km to go to Maseru. This must be some of the best tar riding to be found, anywhere.
We were scraping the pegs on the KLRs through the twisties till it started raining. We put rain gear on and rode over Blue Mountain Pass, God Help Me Pass and Bushmans Pass in the wet.
As for passes ridden over while on the dirt, too many to name, Cheche, Jackals, well just about every 5km had a pass to negotiate, might as well say the whole thing was one big pass. Lesotho Pass.

This was at the top of God Help Me. A clearing in the rain.
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With the rain behind us we took of the rain kit at Roma and rode the last bit into Maseru.
We eventually found the club where we would be sleeping the night, and look who I bumped into as we drove in.
Nice Wild Dog sticker bru!
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It was just washed after the RTH and time trial had finished.
We set up camp and met up with the other guys, Popeye, SGB and whole bunch of guys from DBN. Nice friendly bunch , we ended up having pizza and then went to bed early as the plan was to leave at sparrows fart the next morning. I felt really kak as I didnt take a tripper with me and didnt drink enough during the day, definate signs of dehydration so only had a few beers before downing a could of cooldrinks and water and going to sleep.

End of day 2..... Distance Sani to Maseru was 347km (including 20km detour for fuel) - 9H00 to 17H00 with various stops in between.
 
shark_za said:
On the subject of the locals, we had absolutely no problems with stone throwing and the like, we slowed down when we approached people with livestock and waved at people who waved at us. It was a really friendly and everyone had a happy face. When we stopped to refuel we were approached by some dodgy looking guys out to make a buck but we just kept it all friendly and chatted. No problem.
suspected as much
 
He finished and came 18th in the pro novice class.
What a boykie !

And Ox too, doing the full national route on the KTM300.
Rexc-w also finished the seniors.

Well done to all the Wild Dog members!
We chat amongst class here !
 
My sticker , Thanks Shark , I got it on Friday night.
I will post more pics , when I get them , I must just say from a national competetors point of view the orginisation and saftey of the event was SHOCKING !!!!!
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