AROUND Lesotho

[Roadhawg]

Joined Bonafide MotoCo on their "Around Lesotho" trip this weekend. Had a jol. Pushed myself a bit. ****** around a bit....Found out a bit.

Day 1 JHB to Wepener on Tar.
(Night before Day 1, I decide to add some preload to the rear shock, to compensate for some luggage. Stock setting is 3 turns of preload....I Discover the shock is set to ZERO. So add 5 turns (3 stock, plus 2 for the luggage).

Get out of JHB and the bike feels ok until we start getting deeper into the freestate and hitting shittier tar. It wants to start weaving at anything over like 125km/h. To be fair I also have some pretty aggressive dirt tyres on, but it's pretty unsettling, and even though the next couple days will be on dirt, I still have to ride home on the tar so I'm concerned.
Spend the night at Lord Fraser Guest House in Wepener. EPIC food. Good chats.
Day 1

Day 2 Wepener to Rhodes via a bunch fo Dirt and Lundeans Nek.
(Overnight I asked the 790/890/ktm guys on this forum what I can do for the weave. Consensus was to give the tyres a little more time to bed in, lower the pressures slightly, and back off the preload a bit. I went back to the std "3 turns" setting on the shock....Felt VERY soft. At the forst smoke break I went back up to 4 turns, and it felt spot on!!)
Onto the dirt like 500m out of Wepener and it's everything is grooving. Hit Zastron for fuel. Back onto a little dirt detour again. Lekker scenery (but very dry). Eventually we find a dry river bed with a fairly big bridge to eat out lunch under as it was the only shade we could find. We still had good long way to go, and Lundeans so I was keen to push on but guys like to stop and talk **** hahah.

Finally start getting into lundeans proper and riding through the little villages leading up to it I can see a proper storm building in the mountains....I'm keen to get to the top before that really starts. A mate on a 1290 and I push on when the others take the next break. That means we hit Lundeans on our own, which was actually lekker to take it nice and chilled at our own pace and enjoy the views. We were like little kids in the Helmer Comms ('OMG look at that Valley!! Look at that rock! Wow its a bit rocky here!")

Get to the top with no drama. It's pretty easy but It's been a long day so we stop for a good while. Drink all the water we had on our bikes, and then wait for the support vehicle to get some more.

Right. Time to head off down to Rhodes.

Initially pretty chilled and then the road smoothed out, and it had rained JUUUUUUUST enough to kill all the dust. The leader on the new Tiger 900 and A guy on a Multistrada 950 started pushing, riding right next to each other. I sat about 20m back from them and I was riding pretty much at the limit of my "safe" ability to keep up. Then there was a another guy on a Tiger 900 just behind me. We were all sending it through those twists. It was AMAZING riding. Once or twice ended up in a rut at a bit of a silly speed but the bike shaked itself straight and we kept going. Really really good riding.
Closer to Rhodes, Joe the leader really took off, I tried to follow him but there was no way I could safely keep up. Dude can ride, and has been SOLIDLY on the bike for the last month and a bit riding in India and Nepal. So he was FLYING.

Got to Rhodes (Walkerbouts) dusty, tired but flipping happy.


More coming.

 

[Fuzzy Muzzy]

Did a similar route in Dec.. looking forward to seeing where you went

 

[Roadhawg]

Day 3. Rhodes to Swartberg.

Joe had mentioned initially that we might do the TTT (Tiffendell Tenahead Traverse) if the weather was good. However on his reccie ride last year July, he hadn't been able to actually ride the TTT because a snow drift had completely covered the traverse. The weather was good, and I was very keen to do it!! "Come on Joe, lets do it. Apparently it's just a lekker high altitude road...nothing hectic" **** Stu, be careful what you ask for.

We decided whoever wanted to do the TTT would do it, an older guy on a 890s and another guy on a (different) Multistrada (on trail tyres) decided they would go straight to Naudes and meet us as Tenahead from the other side.

Right. Up Carlisleshoekspruitpas we go.


And I **** it up.

On literally the first dirt switchback, before you even get to the concrete bits, I am not concentrating, go a bit wide and end up half off the road against the mountain....I try muscle the bike back inline but there are 2 deep ruts in the road as well, and the thing bucks badly and chucks me off. FOR ****'S SAKE!!!! I'm VERY pissed with myself, but I'm fine and bar some scratches, so is the bike. I'm also very rattled though, as I know the TTT will be the hard part, and Ive just binned it on an absolute nothing corner on Carlisles. I want to pack it in and ride back down but the guys convince me there's no turning back. So we carry on. But I basically missed all the Views going up because I was all rattled and in my own head.

Get up to the turn to TTT. I'm STRESSING now because of the fall and knowing it's not gonna be easy. Man.....It was a slog. The TTT is basically my limit of adventure riding. I don't ever want to purposely be in tougher terrain than that. Some of those inclines look gentle but they're filled with big rocks, loose rocks, slippery rocks. Holy crap.
I think it took us around 3hrs to get to Tenahead. There were a good number of drops, and many many close calls. I never dropped the bike again, but Man going up some of those rocky hills was sketchy. It was just stand up, open up, pick a line and pray. (And 9times out of 10, the first rock you hit bounces you off that line and you just go straight up the new line that has now been given to you and just hang the **** on!!!)

At one stage, after a HECTIC rocky descent, we looked at the map and we had only done something like 4km. We were all kakking a bit, and I think we all knew that we had to carry on because there was no way we were getting back up the descent we just came (slid) down.

I didn't really take any pics besides one. I was still rattled from before. But I have never been so glad to see a hotel as I was to see Tenahead lodge. Chicken burger and a coke Zero and just sit for a bit.

Rained a bit while we were up there, but not enough to cause problems and we got onto Naude's neck on the way down. Again just appreciated the views (AMAZING views!) and enjoyed the ride down.

(The blue viking now sporting some battle scars on the plastics and bash plate)


Some guys had picked up punctures and another had an off so we ended up stopping and waiting quite a few times. Eventually near the bottom my mate and I on the 1290 decided to push on. We needed to get to Mount Fletcher for fuel, and then it was still like 150km to Swartberg and it was getting late!! We pushed on, eventually getting to Mount Fletcher (WHAT a ********) getting fuel, buying 2 quarts and then head off juuuuust as the others were arriving to the gas station.

Banging it on the tar (wearing only my Leatt soft armor as my jacket was still in the support truck) it's like 5pm, Saturday in the rural EC....I'm not very excited about it possibly getting dark before we reach Swartberg. Just as I'm settling into the ride and thinking about the day, I see movement on my left side and a young donkey trots into the road.......I remember thinking, Right, this is gonna suck, and he saw me panicked and ran further into the road, I'm now WELL into the oncoming lane, on the clamps, trying to avoid him, and about to try swerve back left when he stops and I go past him on the right.

My Heart is HAMMERING in my chest, and decide my buddy on the 1290 can go in front for a while.
We eventually turn onto a dirt road that looked to be about 30km from our destination. I check out riding group and Joe says we must stay on the tar to Swartberg because it's getting late....But that meant riding ALLL the way to Kokstad and then back around to Swartberg. Without the ability to find out why, we turn back onto the tar and go around the long, boring way. It was getting dark by the time we arrived at Flitwick Ranch and I only had a tinted visor so the last 20mins or so was less than fun (the rest of the guys rode like lunatics from Mount Fletcher and caught us before swartberg I still was not keen to push hard on the tar with those tyres (and ****** donkeys/dogs/drunks and goats). I'm really tired and a bit annoyed about ending up riding so late.
But dinner is great and Flitwick ranch might be one of the prettiest places I've ever seen.

 

[Roadhawg]

Day 4. Swartberg to Nottingham rd.
It's not a far day so the guys decided we'll go up and down Sani, before hitting Lower Lotheni to Notties for our final night.
All the guys are keen for Sani. "Man Sani is lekker chilled. Just a steep dirt rd" that sort of thing.

I know that Sani CAN BE a lekker steep dirt road, or it can be a ballache of quite epic proportions when conditions are bad. I decide to make a call when we get there. I'm still slightly annoyed from the night before, and again I got left right at the back going from Swartberg to Himeville because the okes were hammering it on the tar....But the fresh tarmac to the SA border post cheers me right up and it's an AWESOME ride to the border now.

Get to the border, as some of the officials how the pass is "No it's bad. Very rocky and loose".

Right. **** that, I had enough action yesterday. I decide to leave the Norden at the border and jump into the support bakkie with the guy with the Multistrada on rd tyres (he also decided not to attempt it).
About half way up I'm regretting not riding. It doesn't look too bad. We stop to help with a puncture and then get going a bit deeper into the pass and just before the switchbacks it starts getting much looser, and rocky as hell. Ok.....Now I'm glad I'm in the bakkie. I can confirm it's not in a good state right now. Lots of loose patches, and one or 2 nasty donga's just before a switchback which really ***** your rhythm up.

About the 3rd or 4th switchback in we come across all the guys. Even Joe is having to be pushed getting out of a rocky patch. There's the 890s parked on the switchback. Pieter the guy riding it has called it quits after 2 quite hard falls. He hops into the bakkie, we scrum okes a bit to get the bikes going and everyone eventually makes it to the top with a couple drops.
Pizza and a Maluti at the top. The guys are stressing about getting back down. My experience is that down has always been easier as you're not fighting against gravity as much with the rear wheel and traction. Pieter on the 890S practically begs me to ride his bike back down....I have my gear with me so ok cool. Stop to help a couple guys who have dropped bikes on the first few switchbacks going down, get to the 890 S and hop on. It's loose and rocky but staying on the begs, just dragging both brakes and it's really not that bad going down (granted I didn't have to do the worst of the switchbacks near the top though).

(Me on the 890S on the left....So nice and low! hahah)

Get the 890S down in one piece and hop back on the Norden and back to the main rd. Nice ride.

Another puncture and we're waiting around at the Sani turn off just riding up and down practicing wheelies haha.

 

[Roadhawg]

Eventually I'm tired of waiting. The 890s owner and another dude have already left a while ago, so I hit Lower Lotheni, and it's EPIC. Just belting it along that road, it's like the dirt equivalent of the 22. I loved every second of it. Pretending I was a dakar rider (Im dellusional I know) and just letting the Norden sing. It really was just about the best time I've had on the bike. AMAZING.

Near the top of one section I come round the corner and see poor Pieter again and the 890S on it's side. He managed to drop it just stopping to have a rest. I help him pick it up and get back on, and move on again.

Eventually get to the tar bit to Notties. The guys stop, but I carry on because I know they're going to BELT it and I would rather sit at 125 and just enjoy the ride and views.

I get to Notties about 2mins before them. BEEEEEEER O Clock and good food and chats.



A few of us decided we weren't ready for the reality of the N3 all the way home so we went past Sterkfontein and Clarens for lunch and then back home...Got home 5pm after a 580km day and I was TIRED. But happy.

All in all a great trip. I'm still angry at myself for dropping it so stupidly but that's the gig.

 

[Oubones]

Nice

 

[Roadhawg]

Oh ya some thoughts:

That Enduro Trail XT+ front tyre is absolutely amazing offroad. It grips ridiculously well. I evenr had moments on Lotheni where I'd run a bit wide going through a turn, into the "marbles" in the centre and it would slip momentarily and then find grip again. The rear Motoz ADV is just as good. It's actually quite hard to get it to LOSE traction when you want it to slide.


Also, Fuel consumption....Most of the trip down and in the dirt it was low 4L/100. Even 4.1 at one stage, but coming home on the highway it was really high, like 5l/100 and then getting onto the N3 6L/100 which came down to about 5.6 sitting on the highway at 125gps speed. I thought maybe it was the clogged prefilter so I actually quickly changed to a fresh one in Clarens but it made no difference (Bike felt happier though).

Weirdly enough, riding like an absolute loon through the JHB traffic coming into down it started dropping. It seems the bike doesnt really enjoy siitting above 120 constant throttle/cruise control.

 

[Roadhawg]

Some other Random pics:

Tyre still looks good after 2000kms

 

[Chrisl]

Great photos thanks for posting!!

 

[Roadhawg]

Great photos thanks for posting!!

As always, the Enduristan stuff was flawless

 

[Roadhawg]

Ohya reel from Sani


And a random one

 

[Roadhawg]

Check out Bonafide MotoCo for some awesome, well planned adventures. They now do tours in India and Nepal as well as SA and Namibia/Bots

 

[m0lt3n]

great! Thanks for sharing! some great pics there.
Like your helmet as well, looks a bit different, but cool.


but

a bit disappointed...can you please go to your bike now...hug it....take it out....and let it fall over! No babying, Sani should be a breeze!

 

[RobCrouch]

Great pics! It is always fun going round Lesotho, I especially like the rural bits up near the Berg.

 

[Roadhawg]

great! Thanks for sharing! some great pics there.
Like your helmet as well, looks a bit different, but cool.


but

a bit disappointed...can you please go to your bike now...hug it....take it out....and let it fall over! No babying, Sani should be a breeze!

Hahah

Yeh look Sani SHOULD be a breeze but when it's loose and rocky like that it's no fun man. I just wasn't feeling it that day.


It's also the problem having a bike half owned by the bank....you are much more scared of dinging it.

 

[Roadhawg]

Another one....Joe the master of riding AND videoing

 

[DirtyTeNeReLess]

thanks for sharing!

 

[johanp]

Awesome ride report!!