Baviaans and Die Hel 11 to 19 October 2008

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Beemer Mike

Race Dog
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Location
Hartbeespoort.
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BMW R1200GS
BAVIAANSKLOOF AND DIE HEL ADVENTURE TOUR: 11 T0 18 OCTOBER 2008.

The tour consisted of:
Darrell from GS Adventures on a BMW GS 1200 Adv.
Me, Mike, on a BMW GS 1150 Adv.
Emile on a KTM 950.
Uli on a BMW GS 1150.
Adrian on a BMW GS 1150 Adv.

Day 1: Sat 11 October.
Darrell, Emile and I met on the 14th Ave onramp onto the concrete highway in Northcliff at 0600. We left and arrived at the Blockhouse Engen at 0630. We grabbed a bite to eat and some coffee at the Engen Wimpy and waited for the others to arrive. Uli and Adrian soon arrived and with bikes and stomachs filled it was A for Away and G for Go. There had been a cancellation the previous evening so it was only the five of us.

We refueled at Ficksburg and decided to have lunch at Zastron as we had made good time. The locals in Zastron recommended Nells restaurant and pub, right next door to the Police station. Nells must make the best burgers in the world. After lunch we refueled and made our way to Lady Grey. The road, albeit tar was a stunning maze of twists, bends and curves.

We arrived in Lady Grey, topped up with fuel and checked into the Mountain View Country Inn at around 4pm. The Mountain View Country Inn is a stunning B&B almost at the foot of the mountainous backdrops in the area. The lawns in the Mountain View parking area were so lush that I decided to put my bike into the centre stand. That did not help. As we were checking in we were frantically called out to the parking area. My bike had fallen over and was now having a close look at the flower beds. Bike righted- damage none bar a divit in their lawn.

Although service in these small towns is often overlooked, the value for money is evident. My evening bill for food and drinks came to a measly R 130.00 including tip!!!

The rooms, albeit a bit old, were in good nick and by 9pm we were all in bed. Good night.

Odometer start: 61 754.
Odometer stop: 62 469.
Distance from Home: 715 kms.
Distance from Blockhouse: 655 kms.

Day 2: Sun 12 October.
After a huge breakfast we all checked out and hit the first of the many dirt passes that was on our itinerary to do: Jouberts Pass. This pass starts very close to the B&B and wow, what a start. The pass was stunning as it wound its way around the hills and mountains around Lady Grey. The area was unbelievably green with cattle and dairy farms littering the countryside.

As we had a long ride we didnâ??t dilly dally too much and had a quick lunch along the way.
We arrived at our camp site, Kabeljous in Jeffreyâ??s Bay at around 4pm and set up camp. For supper that night we visited the local steak and fish restaurant and the harsh reality of expensive Captain Morgan and Cokes soon left a hole in my pocket.

Odometer start: 62 469
Odometer stop: 63 125
Distance traveled: 656 kms.

Day 3: Monday 13 October.
Uli had a flat tyre. Obviously a slow puncture so 1x can of foam and it seemed to seal. Pumped up the tyre quite hard and kept an eye on it.  A quick ride down to Patensie and we stopped for breakfast at Tolbos. After breakfast we deflated tyres down to 170 and set off for Baviaans. In Patensie we found a Ko-operasie and quickly stopped to replace the can of foam that we used on Uliâ??s back tyre.

Evidently it had rained well the previous week soooooooooâ?¦ every water crossing had plenty of water in it Yeeeeeeha.
The first bit of Baviaans road had been repaired which meant soft sand and new road surfaces. Quite a lot of washaways and cutaways but I kept hearing Darrellâ??s talk over breakfast to keep the power on but constant and let the bike do the work. Wow these bikes literally go anywhere, even across nasty washaways. Hahâ?¦ easy.

Lesson to be learntâ?¦ donâ??t forget about your panniers! Taking a corner I moved to the inside to get a â??better lineâ?. As I exited the corner my left pannier box caught on a tree trunk and down I went. Now that felt stooped! Quickly get up and pick up the bike before anyone can catch me (or rather photo me). Schew sorted!!! Holy bejeepers but these bikes are strongâ?¦ no damage bar a small scratch on the tank. Carry on with two photo and smoke stops, holy but this is hard workâ?¦ the helmet is starting to drip with sweat.
Keep going and HALT! Here comes a 4x4. 4x4 passed and on we go, up and over.

On the down we hit the water crossings. The first couple were cool and easy. We stopped to cool off in the water.

Next crossing and Emile on the KTM managed to hit a rock and down he went. No time for photos. Go help. In hindsight I think that there is always time for photos!!! Picked up the KTM and the now floating Hepco and Becker pannier. The KTM started rather easily and Emily got it out of the water. Managed to get the pannier back on with the help of cable ties and a bit of force and off we went. All in all there were around twenty water crossings. No further incidents, including the big Baviaans river crossing.

We ended the day just out of Baviaans at Bakkraans where we were booked in at the cave for the night. This is the place that dreams are made of. WOW!!! The cave consists of a cave with a huge pile of mattresses to bed, a large fireplace two tables with chairs, a washing basin and a kitchenette. A small path takes us across the dry river bed, some 50 meters, to a gas bathroom consisting of a flushable toilet, basin and shower with hot and cold water.

The people that own the cave also own the local store so ice cold beers and iced Captain Morgan and coke became the order of the day. Upon buying some beers I was told, â??Sorri sir, but there can only like to be one case of beers in the fridge. I had to take the other beers out as we found a body in one of the river beds this morning and we put him in the fridge to keep cold until the Police arrive and take him away.â?

Interestingly enough the owner of the farm farms with Anatolian dogs. An Anatolian dog is a dog that is reared by a flock of sheep, and is reared without any human contact (except for when the farmer drops fodder and dog food). Now what happens is that the dog grow up believing that he is part of the herd, as a sheep, and so lives with the herd and protects it from the dangers of jackal, stock thieves and to some extent even leopards.

We settled in and the owner arrived with supper and breakfast as arranged, consisting of: Supper. Wors, chops, chicken kebabs, venison steaks, green salad, potato salad, rooster bread and sponge cake and custard for pudding. Breakfast as bacon, eggs, worsies, home backed bread, cerials, coffee, and etc.

Evidently there is was a troop of babboons that had made home in a cave above ours, and the local leopard has two cubs, so if we hear any odd noises we should merely ignore them but keep the fire burning. It has been said that leopards do not like the smell of humans or fireâ?¦ we will see if we can survive this tough place in toughest darkest Africa!!!

The next morning we marveled at the sounds of the previous night, something followed by 1x German sentry doing his good soldier rounds. Uli swears that he awoke during the night to see two leopards chewing at his toes. He had to hit them both between the eyes to get them to leaveâ?¦.. maybe there was something in the water.

Odometer start: 63 125
Odometer stop: 63 307
Distance: 182 kms

Day 4: Tuesday 14 October
An eventful day. First Darrellâ??s bike got a front puncture. Plugged and carried on. Breathtaking passes en route to and past Uniondale where we stopped for coffee. Then to Avontuur pass towards Knysna and â?¦ RAIN. The pass soon became slippery snot but slowly, slowly catchee monkey. Right at the top we stop to don rain jackets although I left mine off as it was actually too late. Someone on a BMW 1150 GSA comes up from the other side and warns us of the impending doom of rain and mud.
Emileâ??s KTM gives up the clutch, nothing, nada. He had to start the bike off the starter in first and take it from there. Luckily there is a KTM dealer in George.

After what seemed like an eternity we managed to all make it to the tar without further incident. From my point of view, first prize to TKC tyres. They were stunningâ?¦ not even as much as a twitch. However riding on TKCâ??s on tar in the rain made the ride very interesting.

We rode into Knysna and stopped off at the 1st garage. Re-pumped tyres, and phoned KTM George, â??Sure thingâ?¦ bring it in and we will have a look at it.â?

The group split up as I did not want Emile riding with a broken bike on his own, and the rest went off to the eveningâ??s camping spot in Vic Bay. Emile managed to ride it to George, yet stopped at the first of a few traffic lights. Another call to KTM and they had a van on the way to fetch the bike.

In my absence the rest of the team had an impromptu meeting and as it was still raining had decided that we would rather push on to Oudtshoorn and bed down there in a lodge of types where it should be dryer. The rest of the group caught up to us and so we left Emile waiting for the KTM van. Emileâ??s folks live in Sedgefield so he will spend the night with them and meet us tomorrow once the KTM has been fixed. There was a cut off time that we would have to leave: midday. Emileâ?¦ be there or catch up!!!

We pushed on and Darrell booked us into Kleinplaas in Oudtshoorn. Managed to arrive to a dry Oudtshoorn just before 5pm so shot off to the bottle store to refill with Captain Morgan (and Old Brown Sherry for the cold and wet).

Bonus: Kleinplaas has a laundrymat. Uli decided to play mother and soon the wet and other dirty clothes were washed and dried. Sorted!

A hot shower, one bottle of Old Brown Sherry and a couple of Captain later (our gallant and fearless leader only drinks coffee, pft) and I was ready for Oudtshoornâ??s worst. Bring on the Dros restaurant.

Odometer start: 63 307
Odometer stop: 63 643
Distance traveled: 336 kms.

Day 5. Wednesday 15 October
Up at around 8am. As nice as camping isâ?¦ the warm dry bed in a chalet after a hot shower was heavenly. Breakfast at Kleinplaas is in the form of a buffet and was relished by all.

Phoned Emile. Great news is that the KTM is almost ready and he should be able to join us before the cut off time of midday.

Oddâ?¦we walked the Ostrich capital flat without seeing any. Anyway enough waffle waiting for Emile. After checking out from Kleinplaas, we fuelled up, topped up with supplies, money, etc and waited for Emileâ??s arrival at a quaint coffee shop.

Emile joined us promptly at midday with nothing but praise for the George branch of KTM.

Once we hit dirt road and deflated tyres the fun began with stops along the way for umpteen photos. Turned left at the Gamkaskloof Die Hel road. Along the first section there were numerous whoopees which resulted in much wheelie and air time. â??Is all right innitâ? although there was quite a lot of traffic to contend with. At the top of the last hill Darrell stopped us all and re-emphasized to go slow and careful for the last bit. Holy bejeepers but the last descent into Die Hel was steep and the corners tight. A lot of loose rock but 1st gearâ?¦ and we were down. We rode to the local shop and I soon made friends with ice cold beer, biltong and dried fruit. Mental note, â??Pitch tent and sleep away from the othersâ?¦ this combination could result in extreme combustion and fartogenâ?.

Pitched camp and poured a Captain Morgan. Emile had bought ice from the shop and my goodnessâ?¦.. cold Captain and coke in this heat. The local Tannie will cook us supper. Sorted. Supper will be served at 6pmâ?¦ Donâ??t be late.

The ablutions were all nice and neat, but made out of stone so candles were placed in wire baskets protruding from the walls had to be lit as was the gas geyser system. Stillâ?¦ hot showers for all. One shit, shave and shampoo later we took a stroll to the dining room situated next to the local shop for supper. Real boerekos was the menu, baked bread, rys, vleis en aartappel, roast chicken and sweet carrots followed by sponge pudding and fresh custard to fill our stomachs.

After supper we bought some wood and retired to the camp site to relay stories of biking fare around the fire. One by one we faded and I brought up the rear by writing this journal.

Interestingly enough Die Hel and the road into it has no GPS satellite reception.

Good night.

Odometer start: 63 643
Odometer stop: 63 749
Distance: 106 kms.

Day 6: Thursday 16 October.
Up at 6am, pack up and hit the road after a quick coffee. The road out (same as in) was great as it started with the technical stuff and ended with stunning whoppee-dos, ensuring lots of air and wheelie time. Absolutely stunning as we rode through the clouds. Turn left back onto the Swartberg Pass road and down to Prince Albertâ??s hotel for breakfast. From there we climbed onto the tar and rode through Meiringspoort Pass and onto Graaf Reniet. In Graaf Reniet we stopped at the local bike shop to buy a can of Chain Lube as Emileâ??s can was by now finished and the KTMâ??s chain was starting to make funny squeaking noises. Once lubed up we continued to the Valley of Desolation. Not too much to do there but awesome views for photographs. We soon climbed back onto our sturdy iron steeds and moved onto the pretty B&B place of Ganora in Nieu Bethesda where we were booked in for the night.

As the weather closed in we took refuge in the barn that had been converted into the dining room and pub with its huge fireplace, and soon tucked into a supper of Karoo lamb with all the trimmings. Just before supper we were given a tour through the fossil museum. Holy Mackerel but we were ugly all those years ago.

Odometer start: 63749
Odometer stop: 64285
Distance: 536 kms.

Day 7: Friday 17 October.
After a huge breakfast consisting of cereals, yogurt, orange juice, tee or coffee, poached eggs wrapped in bacon, wors and mountains of toast we said our goodbuys to our gracious hosts and rode into Nieu Bethesda to see the famous Owl Ladyâ??s house. Personally I would have rather visited the local brewery but I was outvoted. Emile went into the local store and bought the last packet of cigarettes that was for sale in the entire town!

As Emile was not feeling too well we decided to take the shortest route back to tar and then onto Middelburg. Uli received a sms on his cell phone stating that he would be in a conference call meeting at 11am. Hmmm drinks on Uli tonight would be the penalty lol. We made ourselves comfortable at the Middleburg Hotel and awaited the end of Uliâ??s business call. Burgers were had by all for lunch.

From Middelburg we took the tar to Colesburg, refueled and got onto dirt roads. We stopped to deflate tyres and I discovered two nails in my bikes rear tyre. Out with the repair kit, two plugs and a top up from my air compressor and we were on our way. The dirt roads winded through the Free State flats and through numerous farm gates causing us to each take turns at opening and closing the farm gates in a leap frog manner. The road soon got narrower and narrower, and soon became a twin track before widening out again to form an actual road with the occasional sand monster of two. At the t-junction we turned left onto tar and into Koffiefontein where we were booked into a B&B for the night.

Oddly enough Koffiefontein had no meat available in its shops but our neighbor came to the rescue by selling us braai packsâ?¦. Hmmm, a bit convenient but hay we had meat.

Odometer start: 64285
Odometer stop: 64676
Distance: 391 kms.
Day 8: Saturday 18 October.
Up just before 7am to the sound of the B&B staff making us breakfast.

We left at 8am and the first stop was at the local petrol station to fill up the bikes. From there it was back onto farm roads towards Gauteng. We stopped in Hertzogville to pump up tyres and refuel. From there it was back onto tar roads and I found it amazing to see how quickly the kilometers were covered, having become used to the slower speed (not by much) of dirt roads, once the bikes were allowed to stretch their legs.

I had been invited up to the Pilanesberg for the rest of the weekend and so I split from the group at Bothaville. I was en route to Mogwase and the Pilanesberg National Park and the rest of the group towards Potchefstroom and onto Joburg and home.

I set the GPS for Mogwase and set off via Klerksdorp, Ventersdorp and Rustenberg. No sooner was I out of Klerksdorp when the GPS  had me back onto dirt roads to Ventersdorp. Having done so many miles on dirt roads, this was of no consequence.

Sooner than later I passed through the gates of Bakgatla Camp in the Pilanesberg and checked in. First call was to Darrell to notify my safe arrival. Yep, they were all safely home too.

Odometer start: 64676
Odometer stop: 65317
Distance: 641 kms.

Day 9: Sunday 19 October.
The friends that had invited me up to the Pilanesberg traveled in a Land Rover Discovery and so an early morning game drive was done.

During the drive we stopped at the newly rebuilt Pilanesberg Centre for breakfast.

Packed up and left Bakgatla Camp and the Pilanesberg at around 11 am and made it home in Joburg without and further adventure.

Odometer start: 65317
Odometer stop: 65499
Distance: 182 kms.

Total distance covered: 3745 kms.

 
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