Cape Town to Swakop - solo

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Prototype

Pack Dog
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
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Bike
Honda XR400
I’m sitting at the office with not much to do other than day dream about riding and thus this story have finally been put down on e-paper. I’m still working on the last bit but should have the goods delivered during the day for your own day dreaming pleasure.

It’s been almost a year now since I rode my trusty KLR to Namibia from Cape Town, and not much has changed and a hell of a lot has changed at the same time. Africa is and always will be timeless in a certain way and it has the potential to slow one down and make you reflect, sometimes to the detriment of your own sanity. But life goes on and if we sit by the wayside the whole time we will be missing out on tons of riding time.

This story starts with finding a new job. Not me actually, but my fiancé at the time, now wife (one thing that changed…). She hails from the warm, sandy land of the brave. She struggled to land a job in SA, got one in Nam, I was gatvol of my boss and said, fuck it, let’s go!  Thus we moved to Namibia (another change).

My bike was in the hospital at the time getting an exhaust valve pedicure, so we packed everything in her car (I didn’t own a cage then, change yet again) and off we went. A few weeks later I hopped on a bus for about 28 hours and was reunited with my refurbished and faithful travel companion. It was winter in Cape Town and pouring down, actually horizontally, so I visited a few mates, said some second good byes, packed my tools and waited for the weather to clear (climate change) while being hung over most the time.

Day 1: Long story short, the day finally came to take my bike to its new home. I was off. But just ahead of me were the menacing remnants of the cold front that had just passed, so it was bloody freezing when I left.

Good thing about winter time in the Western Cape is its flower season, and barely an hour out of town I was treated to a spectacular display of colour while cruising along. My aim was to stay off of the main roads and do as much dirt travel as much as possible. And I wanted to pass by my boet in Nieuwoudtville. So I took the west coast road: Velddrif – Elandsbaai – Strandfontein and headed inland to the Ville. Pulling into the driveway here is always a treat. The flowers were out in full show, the dogs are always too happy to see you, a warm shower, a good 12 year old whiskey, homemade burgers, a fire place in the kitchen and off course family. Although my boet was actually offshore grafting like a slave, his energetic and very short and at the time pregnant wife was home.  All too quickly the next morning arose, as it does.
 

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More time to kill in the office and the journey continues...

Day 2: After a good strong cup of Java I had to say the say and be on my way. The aim: cross the border. The route: N’ville – Loeriesfontein – Springbok – see what the time is and decide form there. Once again I was bombarded with colour as the Namaqua put up a display of flower from white, pink, orange, purple, blue, yellow and red intermingled with the green foliage and the ever changing colour of the dirt from beige to Kalahari red. It was pretty damn spectacular.

Every time I stopped to take a picture of the flowers it seemed so dull. Then I’d get back on my bike and carry on riding and the colours would flash by and I would be in a state of bliss that most Buddhist monks strive to achieve their whole life long. It was almost sad when I got to Springbok and had to hit the tar and at the same time see the flowers diminishing as I went north. This stretch was the most boring of the trip (so far) and I wished the miles away. And as it happens when traveling through the time-space continuum while the sprocket is driving the chain hurtling the rider into a new existence every second on two very small contact patches of rubber, the border arrived. No problems here.

Refueled across the border and with the sun not too low in sky, I decided to leg it to Ai-Ais, there being hot springs and all. It was amazing how quickly the flowers disappeared after the border crossing. Now I’m in the desert, boom! Just like that. Made it to Ai-Ais with light to spare, bought some wood, boerie and a few brewskies and gave the bones a good soaking. It was a good night.


 

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janee, die storie kom 'n lang pad, letterlik. die kantoor het my ingesluk gister, eintlik was dit die swakop rivier waar ek moes gaan boorgate afsteek, heel lekker outing. hier is solank groter fotots...
 

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vir een of ander rede skryf ek soms lekkerder in engels as afrikaans. weetie hoekom nie maar dis noou maar so. elk geval, hier is nog bietjie lees materiaal vir die dag.

Day 3: This blue rollup matrass is way too thin! I need extra coffee today. At least Ai-Ais has fuel so I can give my bike a drink too. I’ve been told that not all the little towns in the region have fuel, even if it’s indicated on the map. And it was Sunday. Now the battle against the fuel tank began. I had about 400 km range on my KLR, including reserve, when the going is good. Sooooo, refuel where you can, every time! Onwards I went.

This first section was absolutely awesome; freshly scraped roads and not another soul in sight. Until I hit the B2 (the equivalent of the N7 in SA) again. Shit. Missed the D298 turn off. Too much day dreaming going on… Gunned it to Grunau, refueled and made my way to Seeheim. No fuel. In fact there’s not much here but an old fort that’s been converted into a guest house. Not a problem as I’ve only done about 130 k’s. Plenty fuel to spare. When I reached the next town, Goageb, the locals told me the town has not had fuel for the last 2 or 3 years. Damn, now I’m actually a bit worried. My tank is half and the desert only just began… Have to push on.

In Bethanie I had some luck and got my tank refilled at the only lonely fuel station in town. Luckily the attendant was having a siesta under the tree at the station and not at his home, so he woke up and helped me. I also drank as much water as I could stomach and refilled my camel back. There was not much in terms of shops in Behtanie, so I munched on my dwindling stash of jungle bars and biltong and set off again. Now I had enough fuel to reach my goal for the day: Maltahoë. The gravel roads in Nam are good and I felt comfortable cruising at 100 – 110, so within an hour I passed through Helmeringhausen. I did not stop seeing as I had enough fuel for me and Raasberry (my bike). Shortly after H’hasuen and while riding a very long, very straight and very flat gravel, the road started to feel really, really long.

Every now and then I would pass an oryx just grazing next to the road. They were super chilled and didn’t get a fright of the bike with its loud boisterous pipe and just stared at me. Other than that there was not much to stop for. The kilometers seemed to drag by. The road was flat and so was the landscape, I could do with some change right about now. I was totally zoning out. Then I spotted a lonely camelthorn tree, finally! I stopped, sat in the shade with my back against the sidewall of the road and promptly fell asleep. It was only a short nap, but I was knackered. Yet I couldn’t just camp out because I only had so much water with me and the next refill point was the next town. So a smoke and a chocolate later, on I went. 

What feel like countless hours of high speed dirt later, mixed in with Buddhist zen to stay awake, I pulled into the desolate one horse town of Maltahoë – roughly 550 km of dirt plus an unexpected detour of about 30 k’s on tar for the day. I stopped at the backpackers on the main road, where I was the only visitor, and ordered two beers. The first one literally didn’t touch sides, the second somewhat. So I ordered 2 more and perused the map while waiting for my kudu steak. The final push is here…

didn't take many photos that day, but below are one at the start of the day, and one at the end
 

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Altyd lekker om iets te lees van iemand wat ver & veilig gery het deur net rustig te wees.  :thumleft:

Jyt Namibia oorleef op tyres wat lyk soos Siracs/Trailwing en nie die hele huis agterop probeer laai nie.

Well done  :thumleft:
 
Ongelukkig kom elke avontuur tot 'n einde, maar dit maak tyd vir nuwes om te begin!

Day 4: it was freakin cold that morning and my body was complaining when I forced it to get out of the comfort of my sleeping bag. In a way I was actually glad because damn those blue rollup camping matrasses really aren’t comfortable. Today’s goal: Swakop! I boiled some water and had a good strong cup of cowboy coffee, munched some future life, refilled my water and my bike and kicked up some dust.

The day promised to be somewhat more exciting riding than day 3 in terms of landscape. There were at least 2 twisties on the map; the Gaub (I think) and Kuiseb passes. Leaving Maltahoë I was on the western side of the escarpment and to my right was old and heavily eroded hills, giving the skyline an ever changing appearance, a very welcome change to the day before. This didn’t last very long and soon the landscape flattened out and the vast space that the Namib occupies became very real. It was nice though, riding over this ancient landscape with yellow grass and patches of red sand pocking through, a few lonely shrubbaries and the odd camelthorn. Not bad at all old chap. Soon I was in Solitaire where I stopped for a coke (I hardly drink fizzy drinks, except the hopsy alcoholic kind) and a smoke and gave my steed a much deserved drink as well.

Shortly after leaving Solitaire I crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. I stopped and took some photos of a bunch of tourists posing at the signpost and they in turn took a snappie of me. From here up to the end of the Kuiseb pass the riding was superb. The road quality is really good and those two twisties really mixed things up very well. I’ve been told to watch it through these two passes as the road surface can be notoriously slippery and catch you unaware.

My experience was that there were far more treacherous corners in the twisties of the Western Cape than here. However, there were one or two corners in the Kuiseb pass that pinches towards the exit and there was quite a bit of loose sand on the road and I had to react quickly as I nearly came in too hot on both occasions. But nothing serious, I wasn’t going fast and was greatly appreciating this change from monotonous flatness to twisties rolling away under the wheels. Bliss! I stopped frequently at the lookout points and soaked in the view and all too quickly the passes flattened out and disappeared in the rear view mirror. And when I say it flattened out I mean it in every sense of the word comprehendible by the human understanding. Remember on day 2 when I said the stretch between Springbok and border was the most boring yet. Well, here comes the most boring section by far!

There seems no end to the vast open gravel plains. The road is flat, the landscape is flat, the road is straight, and this carried on for about 150 km. I’m getting tunnel vision and need change soon! By this point my arse was done for, despite wearing cycling shorts under my longs, and my mind was quickly slipping down the same slippery slope. I forced myself to do 10 stand up and sit downs on the pegs at least every 10 km’s. It helped to keep me awake and focused. I plugged in my earphones the day before for the time ever while riding and it helped so I blasted some rock and roll and kept going through this endless expanse of land.

Even though I have a camel back I stopped to have a sip of water after about 80 km’s. I just need to stretch the legs a bit and not have the non-ceasing drone of the wind in my ears and not look at the road for a bit. But I am so close. 10 minutes later I was back on the saddle giving my battered behind a last pounding.  As I got closer to the coast I could feel the temperature drop steadily. It was nice and warm the whole day and now I am starting to feel the chill in my bones. But that just reaffirmed my location and the cold woke me up a bit and pumped some new energy into me. The road was good and 4 days of gravel travel made me comfortable enough on the dirt to twist the ear of the bike squeeze some more juice out of the fuel lines.

And then I saw the dunes. Hazy under the light fog that seems to permeate the air persistently in this part of the world, but becoming ever clearer as the distance between us decreased. I finally reached the dunes proper, stopped and basically kissed the sand! I made it to Walvisbaai. I wanted to avoid the stretch of tar between Walvis and Swakop so took the salt road that goes behind the dunes. This road is as good a surface to ride on as most tar roads in SA, and much better than most in Mpumalanga and Limpopo… so needless to say I gunned it! I had beer on the mind. And a warm shower after that.

And so it happened that I rolled into Swakop, all in one piece and my trusty work horse of a KLR not missing one beat. That bike really is a beast and I have the utmost respect and love for that machine. It is reliable beyond measure and a faithful travel companion.
 
Nog so paar kiekies
 

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Lem said:
Altyd lekker om iets te lees van iemand wat ver & veilig gery het deur net rustig te wees.  :thumleft:

Jyt Namibia oorleef op tyres wat lyk soos Siracs/Trailwing en nie die hele huis agterop probeer laai nie.

Well done  :thumleft:

Janee, ek het dit rustig probeer vat, maar het elke dag ten minste 450 km gedoen. En ja, het op Trailwings gery en hulle het hulself uiters goed gedra.

Trip stats:

1950 km
4 dae
geen pap wiel of enige maganiese probleme
'n seer gat
ore wat dreun
'n MOERSE smile op my gevreet

Ek het my valve clearence gechek toe ek in Swakop aankom en als was in spec. Dit nadat die exorzt valves gereseat moes word en ek die bike reguit uit die Kaap op die oop pad gesteek het vir 4 dae straight. Glad nie kak nie Kawasaki!

Ek het twee ou spaar tyres saam gery, wat ek op die ou end dnk was onnodig, maar mens weet nooit...
My tool kit het bestaan uit:
2 tyre levers
standaard kit vir wiele ruil ens
'n paar klein sockets
leatherman
tyre repair kan
hipflask vol whiskey - is die enigste tool wat ek gereeld gebruik het  :lol8:

ek het 'n kamp stofie met koffie saam gery, future life, biltong, jungle bars, chocolates en ander snacks
slaapsak en blou kamp matras
winters handskoene
een t-hemp en een onderbroek
twee pare kouse
pad kaart
selfoon

Sal ek dit weer doen? Defnintief nie in 4 dae nie. Ek sal dubbel die tyd vat en by meer plekke aangaan en stop. Ek sal dalk seker maak dat ek meer onafhanklik is sodat ek in die veld kan kamp waar en waneer ek wil.

Maar dit was moerse lekker en 'n trip wat ek altyd sal onthou
 
Another one bites(breaths) the dust....................................................................as daai kampbike gogga eers gebyt en jy woon in Namibië sal jou vrou vir haar n stokperdjie moet kry, sy kan dalk soms alleen wees. ;) :deal: :thumleft:
 
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