Damaraland & Kaokoland – Finally!

[NIMMO]

Jy seker dat dit ekke was? Ek onthou nie fesh-fesh nie, ek was ook waarskeinlik verdwaal. Ek het jou min gesien?

Jip was jy old buddy, en jy my nie gesien nie want ek was onder die fesh. All is forgiven.

 

[Rooies]

@NIMMO, @P.K. and I end up riding a large section of the river together, having an all-round blast. @P.K. decides he needs more zen-time and will sit around a bit longer under a tree at one of our stops to wait for Jaco and the Cruisers, aligning his chakras. This is where @NIMMO and I end up riding together for the rest of day. Was it not for @NIMMO, my day would have been veeeery long. I suspect his probably too because his GPS had given up the ghost.

The exit out of the Ombonde river is easy to miss. To stay upright in the sand you can’t crawl. I found that the minimum speed (for me) to ride at is +/-35km/h and up. Navigating the riverbed as it snakes its way through the wilderness becomes possible, but this also means that you need to concentrate, and you can’t always keep your eyes on the GPS. This is also where @Parkinoff went on his own personal walkabout in the greater Damaraland when he followed the wrong line on his GPS, as told in his ride report.

Both @NIMMO and I overshoot the exit, but only by a little and eventually we are out of the river. We are deposited into the Klein Serengeti offering a welcome relief as the riding is now quite relaxed. Bliss, I think to myself. The tough part is now behind us and from here it is plain sailing all the way to Palmwag. Good grief, how wrong I was… I heard the boys saying that this part should not be underestimated but thought maybe they are just talking it up a bit. Anyway, ignorance (of what is to come) is bliss, and I thoroughly enjoy this ride.

We leave the Klein Serengeti behind us and the riding gets a lot more technical. I think that if I should do this route on a regular Saturday with mates, well rested and in one piece, it would still be a challenge, but a lot easier. However, by now we have been riding for more than a week, my shoulder is sore and my body is aching from the fesh-fesh-fall two days previously. My newly acquired personal riding partners, being my challenged left hand and left foot, is becoming increasingly painful. I can’t shift gears up with the front part of my foot anymore, I am hooking the gear lever with the lip of the sole under the arch of my foot. My two-liter hydration pack, which I filled up at Khowarib Lodge, is empty and I am starting to dehydrate. I’m getting a bit worried. Your mind starts playing tricks on you: Surely I can just wait for the Cruisers to catch up with me, they’ve got water. But what if we somehow miss each other, and I wait and wait and things get worse? And, surely, but surely, the exit onto the gravel highway, which will take us the last odd 50km to Palmwag, must be just over the next hill. It is a bizarre kind of anxiety that drives your thinking when thirst takes over. So I push on.

@NIMMO graciously shares his last bit of water with me, but I remain parched. @NIMMO, thank you very much! Ek is opreg dankbaar, meneer, jy het my oor daardie bulte en deur daardie klippe getrek!

It must now be said that, despite all of the above, I am having the time of my life. I am truly enjoying it. The entire experience is so extremely special. Since I’ve been a small boy, I have loved both the bushveld and motorcycles. I have been dreaming for decades (really) of an experience like this, and I am at all times fully cognizant of the fact that this dream of mine is being realised, in real time. And it's even better than I thought it would be.

There was no scripting here, @NIMMO recording I had fallen there and was just completely spent.



Oh well, let's go.

We finally reach the "highway".




This little piggy will ripen nicely.

I limp my way to the bar to have a beer with more awesome human beings, as @Gerryb would say.

My recovery ward for the night.

 

[Rooies]

One of the first stories I told my wife upon my return was that of someone, without me even asking, coming to my aid when I really needed it. This touched me deeply.

I arrived at Palmwag late that afternoon. I was dehydrated, exhausted and my toe was very, very sore. I parked my bike and hobbled over to the nearest tap to quench my, by now, almost insatiable thirst. That done, I next needed to set up my camp for the night. This means having to walk the odd 40/50 meters to the Unimog, pick up a stretcher, a mattress, my duffle bag, and carry it back to where my bike is standing and then set it all up. It sounds simple, but as I was walking up to the Unimog I knew I was not going to be able to do that. Carrying my own weight was painful, every second step was on pieces of glass. Having to carry all my gear seemed to be a mountain insurmountable.

Getting to the Unimog I encountered @Striggs sitting on his stretcher doing this and that. Ellio gave me one look, and without saying a word or making reference to anything he was seeing he got up, started making small talk and walked over to the Unimog. He picked up a stretcher, a mattress and my duffle bag and said: “Okay, let’s go”. I couldn’t even protest. We walked to where my bike was standing and again, without saying anything, Ellio set up my stretcher for me. Sitting down on the stretcher, spent, I was extremely grateful for this act of kindness and care.

Ellio, I thank you, sir. You are indeed a gentleman and a scholar. It meant the world to me.

 

[BuRP]

Thank you (and Elio too for helping the bugger ) for posting that pic.
I've cut off your love just to highlight what one gets on this tour: the best stretcher I've seen yet, ditto the best armchair seats (wif nogals a cupholder ek se!), and add a mattress which 'has your back' so to speak, warm & comfort-adding!
Schlepp that with if you want to do this trip solo or with your mates, strapped to the bike I mean!
Oh, and the food we were fed, awesome indeed, even fresh crisp salads in the remote desert... jirre nou raak ek sommer honger!

 

[BuRP]

The exit out of the Ombonde river is easy to miss.

True that, plus it's also not soooo easy.
Oh yeah, it is with some speed, but getting that speed in that reallyveryloose sand there.... I had to ride to the opposite side and turn to get (riverbed not that wide there) sortof a run-up to clear that little walletjie there, also loose sand!

Gerry & me were riding together here.
Once out of the riverbed that grass was fantastic to ride in, but the wind bent it so we had no good view of the track itself - but oh well, all was good so we set a pace .... until the first blind lurker was encountered, some hole dug by some animal or why. We stayed on top yeah but our speed was less from there on!
Then somewhere we had to veer off 'right' - but no track! No problem, we went, of course slow, in the direction our GPS's said we had to... and found the track we must have missed.
This led us further through grass until we had to turn, again right, onto another track which turned rocky rather quick - blerrie lastig! I should have done here what I did some 8 km's further up this rotten rocky track - zoom OUT on the GPS!
What I saw was that the track we left, a smooth tweespoor inbetween the grass, led straight as an arrow to the main gravel road we were heading for, the road to Palmwag, and connected what, some 15 or 20 km's closer than where we were headed!
This would save us that rocky shite we were on.... shall we maar turn around then?
Oh well, we've got to go 8 km back on it, and the rest can't be much more..... idiots that we are, there was LOTS more to come!
Some a bit nasty even, and, quite like Roux has said, if this were done by a fresh-us, and with a willing wrist in my case, then it would have been fine, exciting even... but we were a bit worn by that time (we did have water still)!
We didn't kiss the road but did one better, hurried to Palmwag for there is cold beer!

I later told Hardy about this 'better' track but I got some unbelieving facial expression ..... next time I will take it, and I'll give him the tracklog plus my verdict!

 

[BuRP]

The ride through this rocky section - actually it is a stretch in itself, it is looong and taxing at times! - after the grassy 'Klein Serengeti' plain wasn't easy. Not for anyone mind, but my wrist had had enough by this time, and somewhere here Gerry took the lead.
We had been dicing each other in the river earlier and that was great, I loved it, we matched each other.
But, after a break under a 'tree' (lol, it was 1.5m high and dying of thirst), he led us up some rocky incline, and upon me facing a bad-looking climb he had cleared already I saw Gerry waiting for me - I thought that was rather nice!
He did same later after a long lastige looose-shite downhill but from a further distance - yes I noticed Gerry, and I thought "Nice of you"
Thank you for this, I'll ride with you any time again!

 

[Rooies]

True that, plus it's also not soooo easy.
Oh yeah, it is with some speed, but getting that speed in that reallyveryloose sand there.... I had to ride to the opposite side and turn to get (riverbed not that wide there) sortof a run-up to clear that little walletjie there, also loose sand!

Gerry & me were riding together here.
Once out of the riverbed that grass was fantastic to ride in, but the wind bent it so we had no good view of the track itself - but oh well, all was good so we set a pace .... until the first blind lurker was encountered, some hole dug by some animal or why. We stayed on top yeah but our speed was less from there on!
Then somewhere we had to veer off 'right' - but no track! No problem, we went, of course slow, in the direction our GPS's said we had to... and found the track we must have missed.
This led us further through grass until we had to turn, again right, onto another track which turned rocky rather quick - blerrie lastig! I should have done here what I did some 8 km's further up this rotten rocky track - zoom OUT on the GPS!
What I saw was that the track we left, a smooth tweespoor inbetween the grass, led straight as an arrow to the main gravel road we were heading for, the road to Palmwag, and connected what, some 15 or 20 km's closer than where we were headed!
This would save us that rocky shite we were on.... shall we maar turn around then?
Oh well, we've got to go 8 km back on it, and the rest can't be much more..... idiots that we are, there was LOTS more to come!
Some a bit nasty even, and, quite like Roux has said, if this were done by a fresh-us, and with a willing wrist in my case, then it would have been fine, exciting even... but we were a bit worn by that time (we did have water still)!
We didn't kiss the road but did one better, hurried to Palmwag for there is cold beer!

I later told Hardy about this 'better' track but I got some unbelieving facial expression ..... next time I will take it, and I'll give him the tracklog plus my verdict!

Lekker Bart! Ek is baie bly om te hoor ek was nie die enigste ou wat darem bietjie uitgedaag was deur daardie stuk van die rit nie.

 

[geopat]

I did that ride through little serengetri and the schlukt in the other direction on a solo trip a few years ago, these pics are bringing back awesome memories of hard riding days, thanks for taking the time to share

 

[hartebees]

@P.K. on top of a nice vista.

A herd of giraffe on the way to the main road.

The sun was setting when we did the last 50km to Palmwag. The sun was setting behind us and the full moon rising in front of us.

 

[Vis Arend]

@P.K. on top of a nice vista.

View attachment 776771

A herd of giraffe on the way to the main road.

View attachment 776772

The sun was setting when we did the last 50km to Palmwag. The sun was setting behind us and the full moon rising in front of us.

View attachment 776774View attachment 776773View attachment 776775

This as an awesome phodie.

 

[NIMMO]

Daar teen mini Van Zyls, toe Roux lê en rus, het ek ontdek my appels in my Hydra was nou Purity. Loshande was my seerste val toe ek (soos Bart genoem het) in daai gras 'n rut geslaan het en omgeneuk het. Daai val was OK, maar ek dink toe dadelik aan die warm exhaust en al daai gras en tel dadelik die bike op - toe hy staan toe trap ek in dieselfde rut wat my laat val het, en slaan neer soos 'n dooie OS. Seker daar waar die appels ver-purity het.

 

[P.K.]

That was a long day.: the schlugt was a highlight for me and I loved the sand riding (apart from the same patch of fesh fesh where I also fell my ass off).
Klein Serengeti was stunning, but as Roux said, the day got progressively tougher as we got tired and the last bit after Klein Van Zyl`s tested my resolve and the Palmwag camp was a welcome sight.

That said, I maintain that every trip like this should take you out of your comfort zone at some point. For me the feeling at the end of a day like this (after a shower, beer and chat with your riding mates) is not easily matched: lying on your stretcher after a day like this and thinking " fok...that was a good day.." is true success and contentment in my book.

This was my 3rd trip to Kaokoland and each trip has been special and each trip has it`s share of diverse personalities, but this was probably the most enjoyable for me ito the riding in particular...the CRF300 performed flawlessly and was a pleasure to ride, particularly in the rocky climbs and dropoffs which are usually a weak point in my riding. Complimenting that aspect was a good bunch of riders all of whom collectively made the trip special...THANKS CHAPS.

 

[ETS]

True that, plus it's also not soooo easy.
Oh yeah, it is with some speed, but getting that speed in that reallyveryloose sand there.... I had to ride to the opposite side and turn to get (riverbed not that wide there) sortof a run-up to clear that little walletjie there, also loose sand!

Gerry & me were riding together here.
Once out of the riverbed that grass was fantastic to ride in, but the wind bent it so we had no good view of the track itself - but oh well, all was good so we set a pace .... until the first blind lurker was encountered, some hole dug by some animal or why. We stayed on top yeah but our speed was less from there on!
Then somewhere we had to veer off 'right' - but no track! No problem, we went, of course slow, in the direction our GPS's said we had to... and found the track we must have missed.
This led us further through grass until we had to turn, again right, onto another track which turned rocky rather quick - blerrie lastig! I should have done here what I did some 8 km's further up this rotten rocky track - zoom OUT on the GPS!
What I saw was that the track we left, a smooth tweespoor inbetween the grass, led straight as an arrow to the main gravel road we were heading for, the road to Palmwag, and connected what, some 15 or 20 km's closer than where we were headed!
This would save us that rocky shite we were on.... shall we maar turn around then?
Oh well, we've got to go 8 km back on it, and the rest can't be much more..... idiots that we are, there was LOTS more to come!
Some a bit nasty even, and, quite like Roux has said, if this were done by a fresh-us, and with a willing wrist in my case, then it would have been fine, exciting even... but we were a bit worn by that time (we did have water still)!
We didn't kiss the road but did one better, hurried to Palmwag for there is cold beer!

I later told Hardy about this 'better' track but I got some unbelieving facial expression ..... next time I will take it, and I'll give him the tracklog plus my verdict!

Buttt then miss Klein Van Zyl's......

 

[TVB]

Uitstekend, great adventure!!

 

[BuRP]

Buttt then miss Klein Van Zyl's......

Korrek, but then this will be the Sissy-roete, I'll volunteer unashamedly to recce it!
Aaand, been there done KVZ's already now this time (note that I missed out on doing it last year! ) !

'New' is always better - as in proven to myself the day to White Lady camp on which I decided to do the shortest however super-sandiest route (for reason the rocky alternative may have been a bit much for me, sure...).
You did notice that eternal smile on me mug then that evening I hope?

 

[BuRP]

That said, I maintain that every trip like this should take you out of your comfort zone at some point. For me the feeling at the end of a day like this (after a shower, beer and chat with your riding mates) is not easily matched: lying on your stretcher after a day like this and thinking " fok...that was a good day.." is true success and contentment in my book.

Well said, worthy of a King!
Oh wait....

 

[hartebees]

Oh, and the food we were fed, awesome indeed, even fresh crisp salads in the remote desert... jirre nou raak ek sommer honger!

The food on these trips is the best I eat all year. The food is great, and it also tastes extra good when you feel you've earned it after a long day.

 

[Hardy de Kock]

That was a long day.: the schlugt was a highlight for me and I loved the sand riding (apart from the same patch of fesh fesh where I also fell my ass off).
Klein Serengeti was stunning, but as Roux said, the day got progressively tougher as we got tired and the last bit after Klein Van Zyl`s tested my resolve and the Palmwag camp was a welcome sight.

That said, I maintain that every trip like this should take you out of your comfort zone at some point. For me the feeling at the end of a day like this (after a shower, beer and chat with your riding mates) is not easily matched: lying on your stretcher after a day like this and thinking " fok...that was a good day.." is true success and contentment in my book.

This was my 3rd trip to Kaokoland and each trip has been special and each trip has it`s share of diverse personalities, but this was probably the most enjoyable for me ito the riding in particular...the CRF300 performed flawlessly and was a pleasure to ride, particularly in the rocky climbs and dropoffs which are usually a weak point in my riding. Complimenting that aspect was a good bunch of riders all of whom collectively made the trip special...THANKS CHAPS.

It was your 4th trip Pete.... You are getting old
It was awesome watching you and the 300 becoming best mates on this trip.
Khuwarib Schlught will test every aspect of your riding and you deserved that beer afterwards.
I agree with you on the personalities that joined you on this tour.

 

[P.K.]

It was your 4th trip Pete.... You are getting old
It was awesome watching you and the 300 becoming best mates on this trip.
Khuwarib Schlught will test every aspect of your riding and you deserved that beer afterwards.
I agree with you on the personalities that joined you on this tour.

Nope...3rd as a rider.
Working as crew doesn`t count in the context of the comment, but ja, technically the 4th, and definitely not the last.

 

[Aprilian]

Ek lees lekker en bewonder die great fotos - shout out Hartebees ook - spyt ek het die trip gemis!! Nekstaaim