IRISH
Race Dog
- Joined
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Again, absolutely awesome, Charl.
East London to Cairo
- Thread starter charlw
- Start date
charlw
Race Dog
Thanks guys. Appreciate the positive comments. Will try to add more when I can - moving into silly season now.
GIDEON
Race Dog
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2006
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- Gauteng, Pretoria Tuine
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- Triumph 800 XC
Great
Keep up this awesome work.
Ride Safe :thumleft:
Keep up this awesome work.
Ride Safe :thumleft:
charlw
Race Dog
A trip to the Blue Nile Falls was discussed. We were not that keen to go as we heard that most of the water was now diverted to a hydro electric station. But after speaking to a couple of German tourists who said it was spectacular, we decided to go. It was about 20 minutes ride out of Bahir Dar and then you had to cross this old bridge that was built by the Portuguese hundreds of years ago.
The mighty falls that once were mighty. Hardly worth the effort. And you have to pay to see this! What were those tourists thinking? They need to visit Vic Falls - it will blow them away.
The most interesting part of the trip to the falls was this beggar. Begging is a way of life in Ethiopia. So much so that this palm stretched out will soon become the national salute of Ethiopia. Do these people have no self-respect?
What really puzzled me about this guy was that there was plenty of food growing in the surrounds but he still persistently kept indicating that he was in need of food. There were trees of fruit and fields of cultivated land in this area so I struggled to understand why all these people begged.
Another problem that the Ethiopians have is that they will feed you mis information. Ask how far to the next town and they will tell you 120 km - turns out is 60 km. Ask about the condition of the road ahead and you are told it is the worst in Ethiopia, but it turns out to be fine. Ask how much a Coke is, you are told 6 birr; when they bring it to you it now costs 9 birr. Crazy people. Just before crossing into Sudan, an Ethiopian asked where we were going. When we replied we were going to Sudan, he insisted on organising soldiers to protect us. At a price. He was politely told to keep on walking. All this misinformation to get you to stay in their town so they can organise a place for you to stay and they take a commission.
Next day it was out of Bahir Dar and on the road to Lalibela, where the churches are hewn into rock. A very busy road.
Still saw plenty of weapons being carried around. From AK-47's to old .303's.
More old volcanic pipes leaving spectacular scenery.
And rusted tanks still lay on the road's edge.
As we climbed into the mountains, the scenery changed as did the building styles of the houses - almost an African-Alpine fusion:
The mighty falls that once were mighty. Hardly worth the effort. And you have to pay to see this! What were those tourists thinking? They need to visit Vic Falls - it will blow them away.
The most interesting part of the trip to the falls was this beggar. Begging is a way of life in Ethiopia. So much so that this palm stretched out will soon become the national salute of Ethiopia. Do these people have no self-respect?
What really puzzled me about this guy was that there was plenty of food growing in the surrounds but he still persistently kept indicating that he was in need of food. There were trees of fruit and fields of cultivated land in this area so I struggled to understand why all these people begged.
Another problem that the Ethiopians have is that they will feed you mis information. Ask how far to the next town and they will tell you 120 km - turns out is 60 km. Ask about the condition of the road ahead and you are told it is the worst in Ethiopia, but it turns out to be fine. Ask how much a Coke is, you are told 6 birr; when they bring it to you it now costs 9 birr. Crazy people. Just before crossing into Sudan, an Ethiopian asked where we were going. When we replied we were going to Sudan, he insisted on organising soldiers to protect us. At a price. He was politely told to keep on walking. All this misinformation to get you to stay in their town so they can organise a place for you to stay and they take a commission.
Next day it was out of Bahir Dar and on the road to Lalibela, where the churches are hewn into rock. A very busy road.
Still saw plenty of weapons being carried around. From AK-47's to old .303's.
More old volcanic pipes leaving spectacular scenery.
And rusted tanks still lay on the road's edge.
As we climbed into the mountains, the scenery changed as did the building styles of the houses - almost an African-Alpine fusion:
X Banana Boy
Race Dog
Very very cool report. Keep it coming. :thumleft:
charlw
Race Dog
We were now in the 'Ethiopian Highlands' and this was the first day of four days of adventure riding nirvana. You would see mountains in front of you and as you ride you try to predict where this road will cross these mountains. You look for a saddle or a low point and think that this road will cut through that gap. But every time you are wrong! The road goes to the HIGHEST point of the mountain every time! It was incredible. Twisting roads with hairpins that take you higher and higher. What is more incredible is that once you get to the top of the mountain there is another mountain higher than this one and beyond that is another higher than the one before and then you repeat the process going downhill to a river and up again.
These four days of riding from Bahir Dar to Gondor (one huge loop - look at the map) were awesome and it will be difficult to find another ride in the world to match it. It must rate as one of the "7 adventure riding wonders of the world". If such a list exists. If not, this will get the ball rolling.
Here are some photos of this awesome riding country:
Even up here on the highest mountains on the steepest slopes the farmers work the land by hand with the help of their oxen.
At the bottom of a valley with some friendly locals sitting on a bridge. This lot were friendly. Before this photo I had been stoned about 10 times on this day. The stone throwers become more numerous up here in the mountains. Kind of understandable, as it was in these highland areas where the Italians met their match as did the communist derg. This is Tigray country. Tigray being a region that was shunned by the derg and allowed to starve to death in the 80's. There was food from the other regions but the derg wanted to punish this region and withheld food. It was this political act that led the world to believe Ethiopia is a country where everyone starves. Not the case.
Heading to Lalibela and not so green any more:
Lalibela is on the upper slopes of this mountain:
In Lalibela, a weaver still operating his machine by hand:
One of the churches hewn from rock hundreds of years ago and in daily use:
This is a world heritage site and a roof has been erected by the UN to protect some of the churches. Here worshippers engage in mass outside after the service which was held inside the church.
Another view of this incredible structure:
The church of St George:
These churches reminded me of the churches of Gerome in Cappadocia in Turkey and when you consider that St George was a Turk from Cappadocia you wonder if there is a connection.
Doug with the resident priest in the St Georges church:
Leaving Lalibela on their cobblestone road:
These four days of riding from Bahir Dar to Gondor (one huge loop - look at the map) were awesome and it will be difficult to find another ride in the world to match it. It must rate as one of the "7 adventure riding wonders of the world". If such a list exists. If not, this will get the ball rolling.
Here are some photos of this awesome riding country:
Even up here on the highest mountains on the steepest slopes the farmers work the land by hand with the help of their oxen.
At the bottom of a valley with some friendly locals sitting on a bridge. This lot were friendly. Before this photo I had been stoned about 10 times on this day. The stone throwers become more numerous up here in the mountains. Kind of understandable, as it was in these highland areas where the Italians met their match as did the communist derg. This is Tigray country. Tigray being a region that was shunned by the derg and allowed to starve to death in the 80's. There was food from the other regions but the derg wanted to punish this region and withheld food. It was this political act that led the world to believe Ethiopia is a country where everyone starves. Not the case.
Heading to Lalibela and not so green any more:
Lalibela is on the upper slopes of this mountain:
In Lalibela, a weaver still operating his machine by hand:
One of the churches hewn from rock hundreds of years ago and in daily use:
This is a world heritage site and a roof has been erected by the UN to protect some of the churches. Here worshippers engage in mass outside after the service which was held inside the church.
Another view of this incredible structure:
The church of St George:
These churches reminded me of the churches of Gerome in Cappadocia in Turkey and when you consider that St George was a Turk from Cappadocia you wonder if there is a connection.
Doug with the resident priest in the St Georges church:
Leaving Lalibela on their cobblestone road:
- Joined
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- I would rather be in Great Brak...
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Great this RR ! 8)
spoedvark
Grey Hound
Mooi Meneer!!!! 17th is getting closer and closer. Cant wait. Put the new tyres on yesterday. Hydenhaus. :ricky:
charlw
Race Dog
charlw
Race Dog
spoedvark said:
You should get there on your Heidis!
charlw
Race Dog
In Lalibela we stayed at the New Jerusalem Hotel. Very neat and tidy place. We did not camp at all in Ethiopia as it was within our buget to stay in hotels. Some towns we stayed in really shabby places, saved a bit there and then splashed out on others. This was one of the more fancy places.
Tourism is starting to take off in this region and this hotel being built is proof of this. Many people fly in to this area but they miss out on the most appealing part which is to ride the incredible roads of these mountains on two wheels.
The road out of Lalibela with another new hotel top left.
Fly in to Lalibela and you miss these sights:
Mountains ahead. Where will this road take me? Answer:To the top of the highest mountain on the horizon.
Almost at the top:
Still going up:
Beyond are higher peaks and the road goes there as well dropping into valleys along the way. Notice how the steep mountain sides are tilled.
Even the oxen are coaxed to work these steep slopes. Look carefully and you will see two men working this slope.
Over the mountain and down into a valley and back up to next mountain, passing through the village below.
I love these mountains.
Life is tough for the locals. Here is an Ethiopian carrying his wooden plough. All ploughs I saw were made from wood!! Did the Iron Age skip this country?
The women collect the firewood, their source of fuel:
Not easy living here:
Tourism is starting to take off in this region and this hotel being built is proof of this. Many people fly in to this area but they miss out on the most appealing part which is to ride the incredible roads of these mountains on two wheels.
The road out of Lalibela with another new hotel top left.
Fly in to Lalibela and you miss these sights:
Mountains ahead. Where will this road take me? Answer:To the top of the highest mountain on the horizon.
Almost at the top:
Still going up:
Beyond are higher peaks and the road goes there as well dropping into valleys along the way. Notice how the steep mountain sides are tilled.
Even the oxen are coaxed to work these steep slopes. Look carefully and you will see two men working this slope.
Over the mountain and down into a valley and back up to next mountain, passing through the village below.
I love these mountains.
Life is tough for the locals. Here is an Ethiopian carrying his wooden plough. All ploughs I saw were made from wood!! Did the Iron Age skip this country?
The women collect the firewood, their source of fuel:
Not easy living here:
Chuck U Farley
Race Dog
charlw said:
Fakit school? Fakit, school's out!
spoedvark
Grey Hound
Fakit u say? First its back to the "Mighty Greens" for me!!! Will be taking kid so bike is gonna be standing!!! 
:'( :'( :'( :xxbah: :xxbah: :xxbah:
Keep the RR coming. Your pics are awesome just like the ADVENTURE being told!!
Thanks Charl.
Ps. Did not enjoy the Heidis on the first ride back from the Bike shop, but after a week of tar they are getting knocked in and the grip is amazing me, even on the wet tar yesterday !!!!!!!BradM told me he got just over 30 000 km out of his back Heidie??? wow!!
:'( :'( :'( :xxbah: :xxbah: :xxbah:Keep the RR coming. Your pics are awesome just like the ADVENTURE being told!!
Thanks Charl.
Ps. Did not enjoy the Heidis on the first ride back from the Bike shop, but after a week of tar they are getting knocked in and the grip is amazing me, even on the wet tar yesterday !!!!!!!BradM told me he got just over 30 000 km out of his back Heidie??? wow!!
TVB
Grumpy Mutt
- Joined
- May 27, 2009
- Messages
- 21,612
- Reaction score
- 6,720
- Location
- Brits - North West
- Bike
- Honda XL650V Transalp
Awesome RR!! I was hoping when I got to the Ethiopian part that you would have visited Lalibela for this is just amazing - no words can do justice to this old churches and surroundings
Nice to see that you guys did not ‘race through Africa’ but actually done your homework and visited places of history and interest. Impossible to cover all but I like your overall selection.
Nice to see that you guys did not ‘race through Africa’ but actually done your homework and visited places of history and interest. Impossible to cover all but I like your overall selection.
charlw
Race Dog
Some more photos of the route between Lalibela and Mekelle:
One of numerous mountain villages:
Serious horns:
Ethiopian donkey. Note the brakes.
Main mode of transport in the highlands is the donkey.
Village life.
This guy must have seen it all - from the Italian occupation to the communist rule. He probably fought them both?
The distrust of foreigners is filtered down to these little tykes. Some will wave and greet, others will wave and pelt you with stones. Luckily their aim is very bad.
Down into another valley - brilliant riding. Now and then you would come to a corner covered with very small almost ball-bearing stones. It does not matter what braking system you have, it will not stop you. Only the well rubberised sole of a Caterpillar boot digging into the gravel as an extra anchor prevented a plunge down a steep incline!
One of numerous mountain villages:
Serious horns:
Ethiopian donkey. Note the brakes.
Main mode of transport in the highlands is the donkey.
Village life.
This guy must have seen it all - from the Italian occupation to the communist rule. He probably fought them both?
The distrust of foreigners is filtered down to these little tykes. Some will wave and greet, others will wave and pelt you with stones. Luckily their aim is very bad.
Down into another valley - brilliant riding. Now and then you would come to a corner covered with very small almost ball-bearing stones. It does not matter what braking system you have, it will not stop you. Only the well rubberised sole of a Caterpillar boot digging into the gravel as an extra anchor prevented a plunge down a steep incline!
charlw
Race Dog
Riding with camera in hand produces some dud shots, but I like this one as it gives a sense of what it feels like to be riding and looking around at the same time.
Doug taking in some shade, it was rather hot.
These women asked for a lift! I told them they could hop on if they had a helmet. No helmet, no ride!
Heading for the hills.
The KTM's were in their element.
What is at the top of these high mountains? More oxen ploughing.
The road on the top of the mountain.
Doug taking in some shade, it was rather hot.
These women asked for a lift! I told them they could hop on if they had a helmet. No helmet, no ride!
Heading for the hills.
The KTM's were in their element.
What is at the top of these high mountains? More oxen ploughing.
The road on the top of the mountain.
charlw
Race Dog
Back on the tar and still hairpin heaven.
Hatse Yohannes Hotel in Mekelle. Hatse Yohannes was the nephew of Emperor Yohannes IV. Good value for money hotel.
Room with a view. The view.
The room.
The bill. Note the year. Divide totals by 4 to get rands. Quart of beer R4! Brandy was R2. I think I may retire here one day.
Out of Mekelle and building style changes to one of stone houses. A town with political influence.
A town with no political influence.
Hatse Yohannes Hotel in Mekelle. Hatse Yohannes was the nephew of Emperor Yohannes IV. Good value for money hotel.
Room with a view. The view.
The room.
The bill. Note the year. Divide totals by 4 to get rands. Quart of beer R4! Brandy was R2. I think I may retire here one day.
Out of Mekelle and building style changes to one of stone houses. A town with political influence.
A town with no political influence.
Whethefakawe
Race Dog
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2006
- Messages
- 621
- Reaction score
- 2
- Bike
- KTM 950 Adventure S
Fascinating - and brilliant shots!
I've lived and/or worked everywhere in East Africa EXCEPT Ethiopia. BEEG oversight, it seems.
A few observations:
Roads seem to be excellent, especially for being so far up in the mountains - unlike the rest of East Africa.
View from the Hotel - streets almost deserted - unlike the rest of East Africa.
Streets are clean - unlike the rest of East Africa!
Little to no motorised vehilce traffic in general - unlike the rest of East Africa.
Incredible mountains - I'm aware there are some mean mountains there but these photos are really an eye-opener.
I worked very closely with an Ethiopian when I lived in Kenya - what a gentleman - he had been a MiG pilot in the Eth AF and his bad luck was, it was during the Communist regime's time. He, and every other Ethiopian who had worked "for" the communist government, were driven to the nearest border and told to never come back. Abebe had a UN refugee passport and lived under difficult conditions in Nairobi.
Ethiopians are different from the rest of Africa....
Please continue :biggrin:
I've lived and/or worked everywhere in East Africa EXCEPT Ethiopia. BEEG oversight, it seems.
A few observations:
Roads seem to be excellent, especially for being so far up in the mountains - unlike the rest of East Africa.
View from the Hotel - streets almost deserted - unlike the rest of East Africa.
Streets are clean - unlike the rest of East Africa!
Little to no motorised vehilce traffic in general - unlike the rest of East Africa.
Incredible mountains - I'm aware there are some mean mountains there but these photos are really an eye-opener.
I worked very closely with an Ethiopian when I lived in Kenya - what a gentleman - he had been a MiG pilot in the Eth AF and his bad luck was, it was during the Communist regime's time. He, and every other Ethiopian who had worked "for" the communist government, were driven to the nearest border and told to never come back. Abebe had a UN refugee passport and lived under difficult conditions in Nairobi.
Ethiopians are different from the rest of Africa....
Please continue :biggrin:
dougd
Puppy
Hey Goofy, Whats up? Why have the pic's dried up. I seriously need some more vitamin "p" - pictures, the memory bank is getting fuzzy. Hows the KTM going after its repairs? Regards Doug - conspirator.
