Himalayan Heights: Aug 28 to Sep 9 2023

[Chrisl]

That wheat(grain) on last photo still cut with sickle?

 

[Airguitar]

That wheat(grain) on last photo still cut with sickle?

Yes, all cut by hand. No implements to be seen up there.. Hand dried on the roof or the road.

 

[Airguitar]

There's been something in the back of my mind that needs to get out, and I hope I can articulate this in a way that makes sense, as well as providing entertainment and context to the reader.

I was in my early teens in the late seventies, and came from a very musical family. As such we were surrounded by music from broad and varied genres. Quite often these old songs made references to places which I could only imagine.

"Travelling in a fried out Kombi, on a Hippie Trail, head full of Zombie.."
The Manali-Keylong-Leh road is THE hippie trail. I didn't even realize that the river we followed to Leh is the Indus river. I really should have paid more attention!
Although, honestly, who would of thought that this stretch of road would be a hippie's dream?

Here's the Map reference: Note the Indus river and the Dalai Lama's residence.
We never went there. Too busy being Adventure Bikers to be Tourists..

Then, every second hotel in the Manali area was called the "Shambhala", not to mention riverside resorts, getaway cabins, etc.
So, tell me, how does your Light shine, on the road to Shambala?
For info: Shambala is the Buddhist version of Paradise..

This song ran through my head more than once..

 

[Airguitar]

If you taks a close look at the road and how it has become so deformed, you realize the battering the mountains give these roads!

Some pics, like this one, make me pinch myself and ask if I was really there.

So, back to the business at hand. The day arrived to go from Panggong to Nubra valley, 180 odd kilometers.. Easy, right?

 

[Airguitar]

I'll be updating the thread again soon. I'm back at work so time is limited. There are plenty more photos and videos to process so I'll get onto later this week.

 

[Airguitar]

Looking through the thread so far, the pics could make you think that we only rode on tar. While we did about 60% tar roads, there was a significant amount of dirt roads and offroad riding. The problem is that riding in those conditions doesn't lend itself to taking pics, because you're busy trying to stay upright, whilst competing with trucks, cars, military vehicles, construction workers and other bikers. As a result, most photos are taken where conditions permit, and do present a skewed version of what we actually did. I hope to rectify that by adding video clips of sections where the going is harder.
The ride to Nubra valley was very dusty, rocky and hard going. Mike and Ryan were on the way back to Leh while we set off early that morning after saying a sad goodbye to them. Once again, the solidarity was amazing. I remember us all walking quietly with them to the vehicle to see them off, and then walking silently back to the bikes. It's hard to be both bummed that your mates are not with you, but still excited for the ride.

The clouds from last night seem to have dissipated. We were hoping for a dry ride. It was very dry indeed!

Backup vehicle waiting for us..

After seeing mike off I took a short walk along the lake shore.

Not long after, we were off!!

Despite the melancholy of seeing Mike and Ryan off, the road beckoned and the mountains sang a greeting to us.
I was listening to Tom Petty: Into the great wide open.. under the skies of blue..

Brand new roads after the monsoon..

WE were backtracking along the lake the way we entered before turning across the river to pick up the Nubra. The first of several Chai stops.

 

[Airguitar]

These mountains are extremely hard on the roads. Here's an older bridge alongside a new one. I was not even confident enough to step onto it..

I was a bit slow on the draw as a travelling monk on a scooter came by..

Pierre also had a turn at the tassels. I don't recall what his transgression was..
These scenes are to be found around every corner, and yet we stop and marvel.

I almost fell on this road when I hit a patch of thick sand and went squiggly for a few meters!!

 

[Airguitar]

Looking back at the road we just came on, you see it was a long stretch of gravel. If you have any doubts, look at the fatigue on Steve's face, It speaks volumes. We were all shook up!!

Waiting for the road works crew to repair a section covered by a fresh landslide.

When even Manoj and Rob are tired, you know the riding was hard.

It doesn't look like much but we rode on a LOT of marbles!!!

However, the rewards outweighed the fatigue, by a LOT!

Camels????

On the approach to the resort in Nubra Valley, at Hunder..

Feeling satisfied, and so tired..

Iron backed Alfie, constantly watched over by his brother/guardian angel, Derrick.

Lots of rest camps and resorts here in Hunder.. It's a truly specual place!

My beautiful room key! And my beautiful room!!!

This place is truly a little garden of Eden!

 

[Airguitar]

Every morning we were greeted with a little note on the doorstep.
"Jullay" means Hello, goodbye, or thanks, depending on the context.

These cooking stalls produced the most awesome food imaginable. Indian food is the best. I rate Italian food a close second..

The following day, a ride to Turtuk, very near to the Pakistan border, was arranged. I opted to stay in the resort and chill. Steve did the same, but most guys took to the road.

It was on this day that Sandro collided with a car and broke his left wrist and right knee. They took him to a military hospital, where he was put in a cast.
All in all, he got back to the resort in good spirits, notwithstanding the fact that he had just had a bad accident!!
His son, Martino, took it all in stride and handled everything well. Next day both of them took a car back to Leh. What was it with the fathers and sons??

On the mend in Italy..


A few more pics from various moments of the tour, provided by Mike, Pierre, Siddo and others..

Mike in the Leh military hospital.

I was looking for something.....

Beautiful downtown Leh..

Druk Ladakh hotel on first arrival in Leh.

Feeling a bit low whilst sitting on top of the world...

Some goons did all this on bicycles.. must have been french..

Can you feel the mountains calling you? I can already!

Oh, the places you can pee...

You could be on another planet somewhere, speaking Klingon..

But,, the places you can pee...

Phil on a photo stop..

 

[Airguitar]

The second last day of the ride was a trip to Turtuk. Steve and me decided to stay and chill in Nubra for a day, simply because we knew it was all tar and "an easy ride". As it turned out, it was not as easy as implied, simply because the most disastrous event of the ride took place..

Sandro was taking a corner whilst passing slower traffic and opposing traffic in the form of a Suzuki Swift (I think..) was coming the other way.
According to eyewitnesses, the collision resulted in a severely mangled car, a barely affected Royal Enfield, and an elderly Italian gentleman with a broken left wrist and right knee. Sandro was temporarily patched and splinted by Rob, the tour leader and trained Medic. After that he was taken to a military hospital, thankfully very close by, who put him in a cast. He was advised to get proper treatment in Italy, which he did and is on the mend.
His Son, Martino, elected to leave his bike and travel with dad in a taxi back to Leh the following day.

That's not all. As they came up to a checkpoint somewhere near to Turtuk, which is about 6km from the Pakistani border, one of the lads (Derrick, I believe?) was a bit eager on the brakes and washed out the front wheel. The current bearer of the Bear and Tassels rode up to him (still lying on the ground) and simply tossed teddy bear and tassels at him without offering a helping hand. Apparently the laughter went on long and hard.

On the ride back, Phil decided to plod on ahead, promising to stop and wait at the turning back to the accommodation, but misjudged his navigational abilities and got himself good and lost, which had his two sons searching until nightfall for the man.

Methinks staying in camp for the day was a good call.
That night some traditional song and dance was presented to us.

The ladies sang in a high pitch and the band played with drums and a horrible sounding trumpet/flute thingy..

Oh how we cheered when it was over..


The food was insane!

And then, suddenly, it was the last day of riding. I put my little flower on the bike but it didn't hang around very long.

Leaving Hunder, with a sad sensation that I'll never be here again.

The previous day had been a holiday, so no fuel stations were open. Now, 10,000 people looking to fuel up, including us.

As it turns out, we were OK, so we pressed on.

We took an unplanned return route via Warila Pass back to Leh, as the one over Kardang La pass would be very busy, with some insane bastards running a Marathon over the pass..
The road was pretty good!

..until it wasn't. Some hasty repair work brought us to a stop for about 15 minutes..

And then some more..

We also waited a good while here. Lots of traffic on this route, obviously avoiding Changla and the Marathon..

Everybody had input into the proceedings, but the military were the decision makers..

Make hay while the sun shines..

Some sand riding to the top of the pass..

Getting high again..

The boys enjoying our last high mountain pass. Once again, a bittersweet sensation. This adventure was drawing to a close and we all could feel it.

Pierre and me enjoying a joke together. Probably taking the piss out of Mike back in Leh.

I do believe this is the only photo of Derek and Derrick.

Phil and his boys making the most of it

These guys were instantly labeled: See no Evil, Hear no evil, Speak no Evil..

and then we were off down the mountain. Interesting that they brick paved these roads..

 

[Airguitar]

Immediately apparent that we were at 300 meters again, the green trees of Shakti up ahead.

This was at the bottom of the pass, which had excellent roads and we all enjoyed speed and many, many curves all the way down.


Pretty little towns dot the landscape and always the coloured flags everywhere.

Waiting for everyone to catch up. We were happy and hungry at this point.

I think it must be quite an adventure doing a road trip in one of these. They look completely alien..

That evening after a hot shower in the hotel and making contact with Mike and Ryan, we headed into Leh to wander around the market area.

The Tibetan market ladies enjoying a dance.

The Tibetans have been refugees in India for more than 20 years.

The end point of yesterday's marathon was here in Leh. This was the remainder of the setup, not yet taken down.

Evidence of Christian, Buddhist and Muslim culture. Naturally Buddhism is the main religion here. I didn't notice any tension between the different groups, and it was a really peaceful and happy place.

Having a pre-dinner snack and catching up with Mike. You can see he is much better now.

The post-snack dinner. I have no explanation for the way Derrick is dressed. He just didn't feel the chill in the evening air like the rest of us.

This is me in the taxi, saying goodby to the bikes and headed for the airport..

Sandro and Martino were also there but I took no pics after this. I will continue adding photos shared by the other guys as and when I get them..
I'll also write some thoughts and answer questions in the next few days too.

This was an unbelievable experience that words and photos only go part of the way to express. I hope to do something like this again before my time is done. The guys in their seventies proved that it's not too late to do this. Just maybe realize your limitations and work within them. Alfie did exactly this and did the WHOLE ride.

The Himalayas are amazing and mysterious, but the most important thing was that they gave us the space to be a bunch of boys having an adventure and maybe answering a call inside of ourselves to not be ordinary and never be defined by our age, origin or bank balance.

The Road Not Taken​

BY ROBERT FROST

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

 

[punisher]

wowo

thank you for this RR

amazing stuff man

if you dont mind ........ what did a trip like this cost all in ?

 

[Airguitar]

wowo

thank you for this RR

amazing stuff man

if you dont mind ........ what did a trip like this cost all in ?

I hit pretty close to the 6000 Euro mark:
Flights were 1200 Euro
Extra days in Delhi - hotels - 300 Euro.
Some gear was purchased, about 400 Euro
Drinks, shopping, etc.. 500 Euro.
Tour Fee about 3500 Euro.

 

[EssBee]

Thank you, Derek, for taking us with you. Wow...WOW....this was a really awesome RR. I could SO do this.

 

[Airguitar]

Thank you, Derek, for taking us with you. Wow...WOW....this was a really awesome RR. I could SO do this.

It's a very special experience. I cannot overstate how all of us agreed that the best part was the people.

Another word about the cost: I am sure that this ride could be done for 3000 EUR and maybe even less. We found India to be very cheap as far as accommodation, eating and renting bikes is concerned. I would be content to do this privately with a bunch of guys I can trust and who will stand together when things go south. From Shimla onwards there are so many bike rental companies it's incredible.

 

[Nodrog 74]

Awesome Ride Report

I was on a tour with Ride The Himalayas from 1st September to 14th September. Slightly different route but same major attractions and road side stops. Probably crossed paths along the way?

Most amazing experience and mind blowing scenery with some great people from all walks of life from all over the world.

Would definitely do it again.

 

[Splash]

Just brilliant. Thanks.

 

[Airguitar]

Awesome Ride Report

I was on a tour with Ride The Himalayas from 1st September to 14th September. Slightly different route but same major attractions and road side stops. Probably crossed paths along the way?

Most amazing experience and mind blowing scenery with some great people from all walks of life from all over the world.

Would definitely do it again.

I agree.

I wonder if, or more likely where we might have crossed over. There were a few places where I saw other guys on the route and thought to myself "That looks like a Saffa". We tend to get around.

What was your favourite part? I think mine was the Gata loops, The ride from Panggong to Nubra valley, and just hanging around Leh.
Of course, crossing the high passes was a big thrill as well, especially Changla. It was like landing on another planet!

 

[Nodrog 74]

Definitely Spiti Valley, the pass going into Leh, Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake. Early parts of the trip from Manali were also great but the vastnest and scale of the Spiti and Nubra Valleys is just mind blowing.

Definitely recommend to others wanting to do this.

 

[Chrisl]

Thank you for taking the time to post this RR. Love the photos and your witty writing.