Day 4
Makkedaat Caves, Baviaanskloof to Joubertina = 326km
We slept like logs in the clean fresh air of the clear night. The stars here in the kloof are just amazing and they provide so much light during the dark of night. I took a walk in the morning to smell the “veld” and listen to all the sounds around me.
I knew we had a long day ahead of us, I had no idea how long Baviaans would take us and I had no idea about the condition of the road. I have heard so many stories and opinions on Baviaans ranging from “It cannot be done on a motorcycle”, “ONLY 4x4 vehicles will be able to cross it” to “It can be done in a normal sedan car” – I really had no idea and decided not to make anything of what everyone said and just see what the road dishes up and just deal with it. It cannot be all that hard in any case.
The tannie told us that they had some rain and that the river was flowing. We were happy to hear this as Baviaans is famous for all its water crossings. We could not wait to get going.
The first part was just normal open dirt roads with not much happening apart from one noteworthy water crossing although the road was very badly corrugated.
Some pics of the first water crossing, they are all cemented at the bottom – so all a bit boring.....
Marnus
Me – like I said, the crossings are smooth cement below.....
I was having a lot of fun and riding pretty hard on all the long open stretches, but as I slowed down for the Western Entrance Gate to the Reserve, I just smelled petrol. When I looked down, petrol was pissing out everywhere under my seat, on both sides, dripping on the exhaust and the inside of my pants. I immediately switched off everything and wiped the petrol from the exhaust. Just then Marnus arrived and we proceeded to remove my luggage and tank bag to take off the seat. I told Marnus, “dis seker die “f*kken petrol pomp”. When we removed the seat we saw this:
Petrol EVERYWHERE........... and this was my reaction – “Eish – wat nou?”
Marnus had a look and said we must start the bike to see where the petrol is coming out, we did this and immediately we saw it coming from the fuel hose attached to the fuel pump. We were relieved that it was just the hose and not the pump. The fuel hose has rubbed through against the frame and tore open. I am not sure if this should have been picked up by the dealer on the check-over but if they looked at the hose they would have seen that it is on the way out. I have now also learned a lesson to make sure these hoses are in top shape before a trip.
We fixed the broken pipe with some duct tape and cable ties and were on our way again.
We were happy to be back on the road again, and ready to tackle some more water crossings. Baviaans did have some rain, but none of the water crossings were that full or all that technical, I have done more hectic water crossings on Gauteng tar roads after a thunderstorm before....
Marnus
And me
I was surprised by the number of shaded tree covered areas in Baviaans, I thought it was just going to be mountains and serious water crossings, but some areas were very nice and green
Marnus having some fun around the corners
The road condition in Baviaans was very good, although heavily corrugated
Very soon after my fuel incident my fuel light came on, this means that I actually lost quite a bit of petrol. I have no idea how long before the gate I picked up the fuel leak.....ignorance is bliss they say.... Luckily I had Marnus and his fuel tanker along for the ride and I decided to stop for a re-fuel on top of the mountain.
The fuel station with the best view in the world
Marnus swinging the fuel hose dry
As we were filling up we heard a helluva commotion of roaring engines down in the valley, and we immediately though it is guys doing it on Harleys. As they rounded the corners we saw this:
Two guys from the Northern Cape on a V-Max and a Boulevard doing one massive trip and sommer did Baviaans as well. Good on them. We met up with them the next day again and they made it through without any problems at all.
After a quick chat with the guys we made our way down again to see what else Baviaans can offer us. We arrived at the famous Smitskraal water crossing, but it was very dry and no challenge at all. They have also started digging draining trenches to let the water drain – WHY ????
Marnus going through Smitskraal
And me going through
We carried on to the top of the very beautiful, but disappointing road condition pass, some bone head decided to cement the 2spoor track all the way, you can drive this road in a dropped Ford Escourt now...... But they cannot cement the views – thank goodness!!
We the carried on to the top of the last pass and yet again the views are just spectacular
We even saw some baboons in Baviaans
I was having lots of fun around the corners
Some more big cliffs in Baviaans
So, what did I think of the Baviaanskloof?
It is really spectacularly beautiful, and I feel every Dual Sport rider should go and ride it. I just wished I could have done it before they fixed the whole thing up. It takes all the thrills, skills and excitement out of the ride and makes it well, for lack of a better word, boring. You can do the entire Baviaans in a sedan if you ride nicely. I have done it now and next time I will just do it in the car or bakkie to share the beauty with someone special, because it really is very pretty. But I must admit Grootriverpoort was a far “better” ride because of the roughness of the road and the rain, snotty mud and rocks, but Baviaans is much more beautiful.
The rest of the day to follow soon......