Day 4 - the BIG day.
I have been having nightmares about what lay ahead for today. There's very few pics of the Kao mines road on the forum and Google Earth makes it look difficult to say the least. So far I only toppled over once and that was at the SA border post in the parking lot. Seker maar bietjie moeg gewees na die klim
The previous day's good riding upped my confidence levels quite a bit and I was ready for today. Or so I thought....
We were up early and had the coffee pot brewing quickly. We waited around for the sun to warm up a bit and checked out our surroundings.
Arriving so late the previous night, we never even saw the dam. Quite impressive and it will get more so during the day's ride around the dam.
I'll leave the facts about the dam out of my story, as facts only confuse matters. Suffice it to say it's F-ING BIG, no, HUGE, no, GI-f-ing-GANTIC. It really is a moerse groot dam. Geddit? (yes, it's the biggest dam I've ever seen)
So we ride around trying to find petrol, which there's none of around here and almost gladly leave the place. It really doesn't stick in my mind as place to visit again. Sure, if you haven't seen it, go check it out, but don't bother too much about the parts around the dam wall. It's the rest of it that makes it impressive.
You take a round-about way to get to the road on the other side and it leads you across the outflowing river below the dam wall. Now there's a place to camp.
Further up the road, as you climb higher, you get to a nice view point. A few quick piccies and we set off to find our usual breakfast.
In Ha Ntsooa we stop and I love Lesotho again. It's like day and night.The people here are the best.
Check the beer delivery trucks in this area
They don't have it easy and get treated quite harshly, but that's the way of life here, I suppose. D7 finds a mechanic to check his bike over quickly.
He's about as old as the twins and for the first time this trip, I really miss my family. But he's got his family around and Mom wants to try D7's bike out for size.
Brekkie done and we move off. Higher up in the mountains you get to see the sheer scale of this dam. I won't say it again, but it's ginormous.
We don't stop as often as the previous days and when we do, it's just a quick smoke and we're off again. As we come over the mountain, the bridge near the intake tower comes into view.
We stop here and have a Brandy & Coke. Dutch courage is called for today. The usaul bunch of youngsters come rushing over and there's about 15 of them, all giving us the Lesotho salute. But my mood is up and they don't distract from the scenery or bother us too much.
The water flowing into this tower eventually ends up in the Vaal dam.
A few k's further on, I find my holiday island. I wanna buy this piece of land and start a resort.
It's remarkable that nobody has started a holiday resort at the dam YET. There must be huge fish in there. You can see the turmoil they cause on the surface from miles away. There's also no boats on the water. At east we didn't see any.
We head up further down the dam and sheer size of it boggles the mind. There must be a few brazillion cubic meters of water in there. And the scenery just is stunning. Another bridge over the dam.
We reach Ha Lejone at 10:30 and buy juice from the local store. Lesotho style filling station and it it costs over R9 a liter.
They decant it from a larger container into a 5 liter one and fill you up from that.
As you leave Ha Lejone, you go down a steep, rocky descent and then up and down a few more. I was thinking that if this is what the start looks like, I don't even want to imagine the rest. Then you come to this bridge and the road levels out a bit and the climbs and descents are not as steep.
Just before 12 we reach Kao mine and the worries about the bad trails ahead are almost forgotten. Yes, it's rough, rocky and muddy, but nothing a KLR can't handle. And then you get to this!
Quite few times so far, I have wanted to say to D7 that we are biting off more than we can chew and was thinking of ways to try and get out of doing this particular piece of road, but here I stood in front of it and there was no going back. I was shit scared and had to force myself into taking this next step. With my confidence at the lowest level ever, I pulled off and promptly moered down in the mud and rocks 20 meters further. D7 was gracious enough not to take a pic before he came to help. We got the HEAVY bike upright again and I started up the rocks again. Only to moer down again 10 meters on. This time it was worse. I was lying head downhill and the bike had my leg pinned under the tank. Petrol was flowing out the fuel cap and D7 was all the way down the hill again. The first 10 km took us 50 minutes to complete. We were in KAK!
This is what the trail looks like just past my second farm (Courtesy D7) See the ROCKS? Well, there's actually thick mud hidden in there as well.
ROCKS? What rocks? The whole Lesotho is one huge pile of rocks with lots of mud patches scattered in between. 20 minutes later and 1.5 km further I almost moered down again. This becoming a bad habit. I actually just got stuck in the mud coming up the hill. (again, thanx D7 for the pic)
Our first stop for sake of stopping was only about 10 km from my first fall. It took us 50 minutes to get there. But what a ride! After the second fall, I decided to just twist that ear, even if I only seem to be getting stuck. The torque and the D606's came into their own on this section. I don't think we would have been able to do it without knobbies or on any bike bigger than a KLR. This was by far the worst section of the whole trip. The ciggie was one of the best as well.
Looking back at the way we just came.
From here the going was difficult, but manageable and little did we know, the worst was behind us. It's very difficult to get your speed up high enough to hook 2nd gear, but 1st is just to slooowwwww. Most of the riding up to the first 10 km was done in 1st, but whenever I got the chance I would hook 2nd and if at all possible, 3rd. The higher speed made the going a lot easier. You just flow over the obstacles and the bike isn't affected by them as much. My confidence was returning.
Today was a "dry" day, not many beers to be enjoyed, so we stuck to the smoke-break thing. The next stop was a longish one to rest a bit and recover. The clouds were rolling in again and I thought we were in for it A-f-en-GAIN...
(D7's pic)
There was a line of these piles of rocks and we went up to stack one on top for good luck. I think they mark the provincial boundary
We came from over there ....
... and were going that way. Although it's difficult terrain, we had our KLR's and nothing was going to stop us now. Except, but just maybe, the threatening rain.
Our water (yes, no beer on this section) was running low and we stopped at the river you can see in the previous pic, to refill. This is where D7 eventually dropped his scoot. Hehehe. Now don't feel so bad with my 2 and a half for the day.
See the rocks in the bottom of the pic? Why do you think I called the report Lesotho ROCKS? Here's 2 pics showing the typical road/track/trail surface were encountered.
This is downhill from the same spot.
We were really getting the hang of this enduro-style riding. Try to keep it in 3rd, drop to 2nd/1st as you encounter large obstacles and use the torque and grip to power over them and up through the gears. It was becoming more of a jol than an adventure. And then, all of a sudden, it was over....
We reached the tar in 2.5 hours. 60km of the worst and best trail I have ever ridden was behind me and I felt on top of the world. Well, I actually was and was going to the real "Highest Pub in Africa" for a cold one, NOW! We set off to the AfriSki lodge and ordered them to open their bar immediately. They complied and we spent a while there recovering our energy. Here's proof of my statement. Sani is only 2880m according to my GPS.
So, I'll be the first to post a pic of me and D7 having a dop at the REAL Highest Pub in Africa.
For now, this is enough. the rest is
here.