The following morning it was time to visit the dentist and get rid of that problem. Carmen was worried about communication and they would just pull the tooth rather then fixing it. Where we in for a surprise. Obviously lots of Europeans travel to Turkey specifically to have their teeth fixed. The clinic was top modern, the dentist spoke English, albeit a touch limited and/or rusty but she could voice her concern and it took under an hour and she was done. I had a nice chat to the two ladies at the reception who wanted to know what we do and checked the bike with big eyes and said they would love to do a trip like that. They also brought me some lekker Turkish coffee, so my time there was no waste at all. Pity I had only space for one pillion... ;D
Here at the dentist:
After that we decided to go over the bridge at the Bosporus which separates Europe from the Middle East. Pointed the GPS right onto the bridge and went. But not onto the bridge. There were a few one way roads which were not marked as that on the GPS and we took an unwanted detour, following the rough direction to where we wanted to go. The traffic was getting thicker, thicker and thicker. I could smell the clutch, we could not or only hardly move, the traffic was completely gridlocked and it took us effectively half an hour to move like 20m. It was the first time since I ride adventures that the over heating warning light came on. We were also running low on fuel, so we decided to get off the bike for a while, let it cool down and check the next petrol station. Couldn't reach the one on the GPS as the traffic was directed by a cop who had different directions for us in mind than the GPS. Eventually we just followed the road and found a garage to fill up. The traffic was absolute chaos and we decided that the bridge is not a total necessity, so we rather wanted to carry on with the trip and made our way out of Istanbul, back towards Greece. In the evenings we had plenty of time to look at our options how to continue and the question came up if we should go to Athens or rather one of the Greek Islands which we had eyed during our planning stages. Athens lost out and we were on our way towards a greek island. Going back to Greece we followed the same route we came and stopped over night in Tekirdag, following the coast from there further down to Thessaloniki via a slightly different route. We found a cheap place in the middle of town, at ourselves silly at one restaurant, where a single portion would be sufficient for both of us. We had to round it off with some grappa. Walking back to the hotel it was the first time whilst travelling through Greece how bad the economic situation is down there. Every second shop or so was closed, but not for the day rather than barricaded for good. Sad story.
Two things that I remember came to mind. First of all the Garmin Europe Map has got speed restrictions built in. Whilst correct in Germany, Austria, Czech Republic, they became more and more unreliable in the more southern countries and you have to check the actual signage rather than trusting the GPS. It can become rather expensive in Europe... We have not received one ticket in Europe whilst riding, by now we received a police picture from Italy, doing 79 in a 50 zone, I have no idea yet, what and if anything will come at all. Our friend, in whose name the bike was registered, can prove that we was working in Germany on that date and the bike is not registered any more. Time will tell, we just don't want our friend to bear the consequences of our action, that is not on. You collect point s rather quickly and it may be expensive. Time will tell.
The second matter was general usage of ATGATT in Europe, which was prominent up to Austria, the further down south you go, the less they deem it necessary to care. A big factor will be the higher temperatures around the Mediterranean countries, I guess.
From Thessaloniki we followed the road south towards via Katerini, past the Olympus to Larissa, from there to Trikala and cut from there right through the middle of upper Greece direction Arta, which was our destination for the day. What a great decision, see for yourselves:
At the Olympus
into the mounains:
A seldom used road, rocks the size of helmets had to be doged:
An old brigde:
Where we came from:
The road varied from tar to more potholes to gravel and we only came across a few cars during the whole day, the scenery through the mountains, on top of them and back down to the coast was fantastic.
The day was reaching the end for riding, but we cold not find a camping site. A hotel, 4*, that looked better than budget, was eventually found. As it was off season, the were quite happty to reduce the rate to budget level, how nice. As we arrived, we were the only guests. Whilst having our first beer we were watching a Durch Tourist Bus arriving and the group provided us with the entertainment for the evening, which would have been somewhat dull without them. About enquiring with the guy at the reception, he provided us with a tip where to go and the next aim for the day became Lefkada, which was also recommended previously to us. The ride
was easy and via a little bridge/sleuth we arrived on the island. After a bit of searching, we found the campsite. But it was one km away from the beach, which we did not want and also closed!? We spoke to another German couple who toured with their bus and they told us about a campsite on the mainland, further down and we agreed to meet there again as we were somewhat faster on the bike than them. The first campsite we found was actually crappy and whilst having our first beer and checking it out, we didn't like it at all and left again. We found another one further down the road, slightly better but still questionable. But we stayed. The other couple did not come, so they must have found another place to stay. I got orders to go shopping for beer and onions for supper. Easier said than done. I got an 8-pack of beer, no problem. But onions? No chance. First I had problems to find the greek word for onions, secondly this dorpie was inhabited by locals, who hardly spoke any English at all, so it was a lekker game of guess what I'm saying with lots of gestures, drawings etc. Then I received a tip from a young man who spoke a little English and said, I am in the wrong dorpie for onions. I had to go to the next village. On the GPS that was like 10km away? I asked how far and he said: 200m! :imaposer:
They have a fruit and veggie shop. Which I could not find by means of the signage or trying to talk to locals there. I found a bakery (by the bread and cake pictures outside), which proved to be the veggie shop as well! Go figure? 5 Oranges were on display,three bananas, two aubergines, a few salads, NO ONIONS. I bought green peppers and decided, they had to do! I got back to the campsite quite late and swambo already was worried something had happened to me as it took such a long time. And I don't waste time when shopping!
ot:
eepwall:
She thought I had gone, with money, passports, telephone, i.e. everything she would need in an emergency. We laughed it off, tried the local beer and enjoyed our self made supper. The campsite was weird. I also noticed that they had big signs in the toilets not to throw the used toilet paper into the toilet but dispose of it in an open bucket. Really? Eish!
We followed the road north towards Igoumenitsa, where we wanted to board the ferry to Brindisi/Italy. The campsites we found along the coast did not impress us much and after a short discussion, we took the option to go to the island of Korfu instead, hoping it would be better as we had heard good feed back about Korfu. On the road to Igoumenitsa I spotted a 1200 Tenere and the rider sitting at a close coffee shop. The bike had Italian plates and we stopped to have a chat to the rider. What a good decision. He just came back from a trip to Teheran/Iran and had some good stories to tell. After learning that we were on our way to Italy, we took out our European map and he told us where to go and what to eat, always concentrating on things we were not aware about or simply did not know. All of it proved to be great advise and we have seen parts of Italy, which people don't visit often and tested local dishes and wines. Wunderbar!
En route to Igoumenitsa with our newest friend Luca, giving us fantastic tips:
Some roads on Lefkada came to an end, where they simply stopped and I had to turn around, no other way out.
At Mytikas, the second crappy campsite, at least right at the beach, my first swim in the Mediterranean sea:
Dinner, the cooker is crap!
Boarding for Corfu:
Our campsite at Dassia/Corfu (the owner wanted to keep our passports during the stay, we said, certainly not, we can pay cash, don't worry...we came across such request regularly!)
Corfu is a lekker island, it was really nice and quiet still being just before the holiday season started, they where just getting in shape for the tourist hordes, which we avoided.
We cruised the island, found nice restaurants at acceptable rates, including the campsite restaurant which was really good. The only thing, the Greeks don't make good wine. One afternoon we went for cocktails (about 7,50 EUR average), Carmen got a neck massage, in general life was good!
Transformer 3:
At a graveyard, a personal shrine with matters from live on display, this chap did aged 27, possibly on the bike?
This chap stopped, we had also stopped to take a picture, and asked, if we were alright or needed help with/for the bike! We really liked that, genuine fellow that!
We spent four lekker days on the island and it was time to move again. Leaving Corfu:
We had the ferry from Igoumenitsa to Brindisi booked at a travel agent on Corfu. They only leave after midnight and as we have never done this before, we did not want to take a chance. Corfu was left in the afternoon and we rode around Igoumenitsa's port/town a bit, took some photos and had a beer or two, rounding the day off with dinner not far from the dinner. So we thought. Then we went to the quayside were the ferry was leaving. 30 trucks and three bikes were waiting, more trucks arriving. I found some Turkish Lira in my pockets and we could not use them or change them any more. I went and joined a group of truck drivers and asked, which one the driver was from the Turkish truck. They did not know what I was after and I was met with some reluctant faces, one guy saying, me, why? So I gave him the money and said he should buy some beers for his friends... Their faces lit up and big smiles and thank you's came over. I went back to Carmen and the waiting game started. It became dark and we looked far into the sea, not seeing a thing. A boat came and the lights became bigger, yay, our ferry! Not so. It docked next to us. Another one came about half an hour later, at good last! It went past our anchorage. Cut a long story short, ours came around 1 in the morning, you just sit there and waste time. Nobody knew (or told us) when it would arrive. A touch frustrating. I'm used to that in Africa, but in Greece?
Trucks and bikes
Waiting, seeing, and again waiting....
Finally time to board
Since the ferry took 7 hours we took a cabin to catch some sleep, I did not want to continue riding totally tiered. Well invested money and we caught some sleep before entering Italy.