Long Way Home

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Literally 20 metres past the cemetery entrance a statue caught my eye, and for the XXth time on the trip I turned around to check it out. I'm not sure what my problem is - anything concerning race cars, bikes, aeroplanes and boats seem to jump out at me as I go past, no matter what speed I'm doing, and I just HAVE to stop. Obsessive-compulsive, maybe? Who cares?


It was interesting, and the oke's name sounded vaguely familiar. I later researched him and found out that his hometown was on top of the hill above the lake, and there is a nice museum there. Blast and bugger. I would have liked to see it, it's so out-of-the-way that it would take a lot of effort to get there again. Piero Taruffi was quite the boykie - he won numerous important bike and car races and championships back in the day, including the Mille Miglia. Kind of like an Italian Mike Hailwood.

This is Piero on his BSA (WTF??) at Monza


I didn't know it then, but that wouldn't be the last I'd see of Piero Taruffi on the trip. Stay tuned.

Tuscany is extremely scenic, and even more so in late summer, when everything is shades of brown. I travelled on SS and SR 2, which runs north parallel to the autostrada a bit further inland. I'd had enough of trying to pay tolls and besides, this route is absolutely spectacular, if slower. SR 2 passes through scenic places with names like Acquapendente, Buonconvento, and the beautiful city of Siena. Not that I explored Siena - I was on a different mission, and I've since been told by several people that I'm an uncultured baboon for not doing so. Next time  :ricky:  

Typical springtime scenery in Tuscany





At a place called Poggibonsi, where I also had THE best sarmie I've ever eaten - at some random petrol station nogal -  I split off onto SR 429 and later SR 436 to MONTECATINI TERME, which is about 40 k's northeast of Pisa. When I rode south in 2008 I had spent a few days with friends who lived maybe one k from he leaning tower. We'd gone there on bicycles after dinner ie after 9 pm, and it was spectacular. I had been to Montecatini on that trip too, and picked it as my overnight spot because....I could, I suppose.  
Montecatini is bisected by a railway line, and I wandered around like a non-GPS equipped fool (I prefer to call it hard-core navigational boffin) for a while until I found a crossing. Two blocks later I found a small family owned hotel and checked in. Very reasonable, E35 for a single room that was clean, with balcony and ensuite bathroom.
The front desk was covered with all kinds of foreign money under glass, and I added a R50 note with the lion's head  to the non-English speaking owner's collection. He was very chuffed, made growling noises at me and smiled from ear to ear.  Friendly oke.
The hotel at right:


At this hotel I gained some more travel wisdom: the size of the bathroom is DIRECTLY related to the price. Back at Cassino, where I'd paid E75 for the night's stay, the bathroom looked like this:


Very nice, and spacious. You could call old mum or order a pizza while taking care of business too, which struck me as sheer luxury.

In Montecatini, E35 worth of bathroom looked like this:


Don't get me wrong - they were both spotless, with all the hot water a weary traveller could want. It's just that in Montecatini, shall we say, you could.....accomplish two of the three S'es simultaneously. (If you're not familiar with old SADF slang, that means SHIT-SHAVE-N-SHAMPOO. )

And if you're STILL not catching my drift - you could take a shit and a shower at the same time in this one  :evil6:
Not that I did, you understand,  but I had a sit-down shower just to prove the point. I did NOT  use the drinking-fountain next to the toilet in either one. Too much effort and a bit stupid, frankly, having to bend over that far to get your mouth to the tap. Besides - it sprays, and most of it goes up your nose. A k*k design, if you ask me.

My old Ovamboland landmine-dodging habits of never riding the same route twice are still ingrained, but I HAD to go ride route SS 12 again. In 2008 it was the best piece of road I did all trip. It didn't disappoint this time, either. On the initial climb into the foothills I stopped for petrol at the same time as some FIAT 500 club, from the looks of it. I saw about a dozen before the petrol station,  some with four people in them, and a few getting petrol and 2-stroke oil. Very cool little cars, but I wouldn't be accepted as a member. There is NO way I'd fit in the bloody thing. It comes up to barely above my hip, FFS.


Various views along route SS 12:







As I said, things jump up and wave when I go by, and this MX track across a valley caught my eye:



Then this kid on a KTM 350 EXC rocks up. Nice bike, with number plate. I asked him in Swahili if he rode there - might as well have, for all the English he spoke - and he smiled very broadly and said "...SI".


He was impressed by the mighty 950, and I was very impressed by his tricked-out two stroke with a number plate.

Some time later I stopped and watched a bunch of people launch gliders from an incredibly scenic little airstrip in the mountains:


I started talking, or rather HE started talking to me, to the oke in the red shirt. His name was Adriano, and when I told him where I'm from he said"...oh yes....I have been to Gariep many times...." I didn't know it, but apparently Gariep is gliding central in SA.


Through the mountains, I passed through MODENA, and as if by PFM, as I was wondering where the Ferrari factory was, I went by it at 130. What to do? Grab a handful of brakes, pull an illegal U-ie of course,  and two minutes later there I was:


I'd lost track of the days, and thought it was Monday. I wondered what was going on, the roads were practically deserted once out of the mountains, I thought it must be some kind of public holiday because clearly NOBODY was working at Ferrari that day.


 
Moer interesting, moer cool. Thanks. Subscribed
 
No. Just feel a bit guilty that it's not on dirt roads in Nambabwe.

And been too busy travelling  :ricky:
 
Stuck in one spot for now......slowly going crazy, but looks like i may wear a towel on my head soon....

After Modena, I turned north-west on a secondary road that parallels the autostrada to MILANO. Lovely road, very quiet, I was still thinking it's Monday and some religious holiday because the roads were deserted. Around 2 pm I started getting a bit concerned, it was so quiet....hadn't figured out yet that it was Sunday O0

Then I noticed police standing at bigger intersections, obviously waiting for something....waved at a few, with sinking heart. Sure enough - twenty k's up the road, STRADA SCHIUSTO. Turned out the Gyro D'Italia was coming the opposite way.  At some small crossroad, the policia were IN the road, halting all traffic, so I figured the bicycles must be close. I stopped, took off some gear to get comfortable, and chatted with a British couple who were driving through Italy in an open sports car. Probably the only nicer trip than what I was doing......depending on who you dragged along  :biggrin:

The police told us the race was still 90 minutes away, and I wanted to get to Milano before dark, so reluctantly decided to backtrack and get on the autostrada, bypassing the race. I'd never seen anything like that and was keen, but couldn't wait 2+ hours until the bicycles all went by.

Luckily the nearest on-ramp was only a few k's back so within 15 minutes I was on the autostrada, doing 140. Maybe 20 minutes later I saw some helicopters low down, ahead and to my left. The road I'd been on was only about 500m south of the autostrada, and soon I saw the peloton and the pack go past in the opposite direction. They were MOVING  :eek:

I didn't find out till two days later that right about the time I passed them, a Belgian rider crashed and died.....

Somewhere near MILANO I exited the toll road. The signs said "Somalia East" and "Somalia West"   ??? confused me for a minute....I'd spent too much  time in Mogadishu and Kismayo and Beletweyn to be fooled...this was NOT Somalia  O0


Being a firm believer in the "7 P's" philosophy, I found the cemetery in Milan where a friend of mine's uncle is buried fairly easily. The young man had flown Liberators just like his peer Pat had, except Pat had lived to 80. This oke and 5 other aircraft flew into mountains one stormy night in 1944 because of bad weather reports, trying to drop supplies to partisans. The crew of 7 were buried in one grave....not enough left to even fill that....

I'd had another of my bright ideas that morning, when I looked at the map ad saw that MONZA is just north of Milan. I planned on sleeping at or near the track that night, and go nose around a bit....maybe do a lap like at Nurburgring  :blob1:
 
Hmmmm - now have the time to finish, but experiencing severe internet access issues....will finish asap
 
Wow! I am really enjoying this RR. Keep it coming, I am not missing any of it! :thumleft: ;D
 
Time and internet both available.....so allow me to lie a few more stories.....

You think eToll in Joburg is bad news? In Italy, ALL motorways are toll roads, with tollgates like this one, just south of Milano - 23 lanes  :eek7:



After leaving the cemetery on the west side of Milan I took the ring road around the city  - was going clockwise, had to get from about 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock for the turnoff to Monza, which is just north of the city. I had maybe 30 k's to go.....but the deserted roads from that morning were now PACKED. It seems the Wops either get up at dawn and go places and then go home around 5 pm, or else they don't get out till 5....with the (southern) Euro lifestyle of dinner at 9 pm and hit the disco at 1 am, I'd say it's scenario two.  

Either way, I was FUCKED. Traffic on the ring road was stopped. Bikes were lane-splitting, but a KTM 950 with panniers is wider than many Italian cars, so I wasn't going anywhere fast. Before the 950 (and I) overheated, I took the first offramp into the city, stopped as soon as I could, got my map out and planned a flanking manoeuvre. I headed northwest, away from the city on an empty autostrada and stopped at a tollgate-slash-petrol station for some fluids. It was 31 degrees C and I was running in the red.

After slamming a litre of water and a Red Bull, some oke on a BMW GS 1200 started talking to me. He spoke excellent English - obviously had spent time in the UK or US - and was extremely fastidiously dressed.....not that there's anything wrong with that, even for an oke on a GS  :ricky:

He was very helpful, gave me direcions to Monza, then offered me some chocolate. It wasn't a TEX or other plebian shite either - fine Italian stuf. I am normally quite obtuse, but the way he did it started small bells tinkling in the left rear quadrant of my skull. I wasn't lus for anything that sweet, and when I declined and started rigging up to ride, he suggested that I skip Monza - there was no racing going on, plus it was a dreadfully dreary place - or words to that effect - and go north to Lake (Lago) Como. He said it was a beautiful area, very romantic and there were some wonderful lookout spots at the lake. He also had a house nearby..... :imaposer:

By now my usually worthless gay-dar was setting off seriaas alarm bells, and I politely declined the unspoken invitation, got on the 950 and fucked off. I had to laugh in my helmet - if he thought I was pretty he was seriously twisted - I looked like .....well. someone who'd ridden all day, and smelled like a buffalo.

Twenty minutes later:


Monza is in a city park, the track was built in 1922 as I recall. So you ride along, as if cruising down Brakpan's main street, and BELISSIMA!  there's the gate to one of the great racetracks of the world.

The gate was open and the booth empty. Not a soul in sight, so after taking a photo or two I got bold and decided to just keep going until someone stopped me. A k or so up the tree-lined road was an intersection with a boom across and two okes in day-glo lime green vests and walkie-talkies. As I quickly thought up some bullshit story about why I had to go further (under pressure I can talk k@k like nobody) and slowed down to stop, they smiled and waved and pulled the boom aside for me.

I waved and blipped the throttle, and kept going  :biggrin: Went through a tunnel, obviously under the track, and popped out right in the Pit area.
Two minutes later:


Well - to make a long story short, I noticed a lot of activity - okes breaking down tents, loading bikes, stowing huge toolboxes - and when I saw the names on the big 18-wheeler lorries I realised that I HAD MISSED THE F***KING WORLD SUPERBIKES BY A FEW HOURS!!! AAAAAAAH  :angry9: :angryfire: :BangHead: :angry9:
 
I'd had a long day in the KTM's deluxe seat and soon found the track's campsite. It is just north of the pits, on the outside right where the old banking splits off from the track and right next to the first chicane. It seemed full, but they had a few campsites open. Already I could see and hear numerous post-race parties gathering momentum.
E17 later I found a nice spot and set up my tent for the first time on the trip:




Walking around trying to find the ablution block, I bumped into four little Brit kids of 3 or 4 - three boys, a little red-headed Viking girl, and a Shit-zu following them around, The little girl was the gang leader. She was powerfully built - all muscle, no fat - with sturdy little legs, long red braided hair, and a kilt. Yes, a kilt - it looked like one anyways. These four were running around having the time of their lives - hunting in the forest (in their minds) probably - and as they passed me, she looked waaaay up at me and said:..."hello!"    

Then she resumed ordering the troops around.  
My kind of kid  :imaposer:

In the very nice shower block, some Brit oke warned me not to use the last toilet stall "...it's just a fooking hole in the fooking ground mate....fooking barbarians..."  :imaposer:

After a hot shower I rigged myself out in clean shorts and T-shirt and went over to the office, where a very jolly braai and beer sales were going on. Three cold beers and an Italian boerie roll - tasty, as can be expected - later, it was bed time. I rolled out my ThermaRest mattress (it's only about 3cm thick when inflated but sleeps like a Sealy Posturepedic) and discovered that I'd left my sleeping bag in Greece.

Oh well - make do - put on fleece jacket, wrap legs in riding jacket....no problem. As I drifted off, a SERIAAS party about 50m away was hitting fourth gear. These okes were organised....some kind of flat-bed truck with a canopy on the side, and speakers the size of fridges at the corners. They were playing all the old classic lullaby's....Black Sabbath, Metallica, Ozzy, Van Halen, Rammstein...lekker LOUD, and pissing it up like there's no tomorrow....and NOBODY was complaining or calling the police.  My kinda place  :biggrin: In the "Land of Freedom" across the pond, such a scenario would have all those cool people you see on TV  .....can't name even one....you know, the heroes  :bootyshake: of all those fucking mindless yank TV shows....CIS (is it?) ....etc etc etc - all over you, screaming and shoving guns in your face.  

Anyways - I was being lulled to sleep by Ozzie, thinking it's a bunch of Brits letting their hair down. Just before I crawled  into the tent, I saw one running in a circle in his rods with his arms held up like a messiah, yelling "...whiiiite pusseee....WHIIIITE PUSSEEEE..." whie the rest threw bottles and beer cans at him. One could SURELY  be excused for assuming they were a bunch of Poms  :laughing4:

Until the music selection suddenly morphed into Rammstein and German Country  :imaposer: :imaposer: If you really want to piss yourself. listen to German shit-kicker music....I couldn't go to sleep, lay there laughing for half an hour. Then the wind really started howling and I thought it would blow the 950 over onto me, so I got out and checked on it. The party next door was slowing down - okes passing out and sitting with girls, trying to score points  

Next morning, I enquired at the office about doing a lap around the track. My luck was out - normally you can do it just about anytime, but it being the day after the big races, there were forklifts and trucks and tractors and shit on the track, taking down various banners and scaffolds. So no go. But at E60 for a lap, I can't say I was too disappointed.

At check out, I discovered that I didn't have enough cash on me, so walked to an ATM just outside the track - park - and saw some typical Italian things - stylish and artistic - just outside the west gate.
The gate is to the left at this small roundabout. Check the sculpture on top:




The shiny wall next to the open pavement section just before the roundabout was one of the coolest things i'd ever seen at any racetrack: a gallery of photos of the winners of each and every GP ever held there, F1 and bikes.
From the early days:


To the last F1 GP a few years ago:


Same for the bikes:



Some noteworthy winners:


The mighty AutoUnion, which I had seen in the museum in Munich on the previous ride south:


And, of course:

 
Awesome stuff - really glad you came back and are finishing this. Love you writing style. :thumleft:
 
this is awesome!!keep it coming please :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
For some reason, this is the most beautiful F1 car ever built to me....suspect it's so because I built a big model of it when I was 10 or 11 - about half a metre long, with real soft rubber tyres. I saw them at Kyalami too, in the GP in 1972 (my first) when we sat just down the slope from Crowthorne and saw the huge accident caused by Dave Charlton - Clay Regazzoni in one of these Ferrari 312's was trapped in his burning car, and Mike Hailwood, whose Surtees had been involved in the accident too, went into the massive fireball and pulled him out. Jacky Ickx's Ferrari (same model, number 4) spun violently across the track end ended up right in front of us, he jumped out and ran to the fire as well.

I can still see it like a HD video - made a big impression on me, literally a week or two after I'd turned ten....


There is also a photo of the track under construction in 1922. These photos are on ceramic tiles mounted to the wall, btw.



The longest part of the wall is tiled with signatures of notables in Monza history


The poison dwarf is there....


So are many old-time F1 drivers, many killed on racetracks around the world:








I had dreamt that Francois Cevert was killed in a racing accident shortly before he died at Watkins Glen in 1973 - a real mindfuck for an 11 year old....



Eerily, both the Shadow drivers killed at Kyalami are here too....




Revson died during practice in 1974, I went to the GP on the weekend.....also to the 1977 GP when Tom Pryce hit the marshal running across the track with a fire extinguisher and was killed by the fire extinguisher hitting him in the head.....a school chum of mine named James was sitting on top of a van parked against the fence, across from the pits, between the old main grandstand and the bridge....the fire exringuisher went whirrrring in between him and the oke sitting on the van's roof next to him.....they were too pissed to realise what it was at the time.

And remember Piero Taruffi?


This is the west gate. The  yellow house on the left is literally 150m from the track - you can see the barriers in the background between the trees....that is just past the pits, right before the first chicane. Whomever lives there best be motorsport fans.....
The campsite entrance is behind the wall, to the left of the white post.

 
While I was breaking down my tent, this oke was watching the action from his VIP seat....


After paying for the camping spot, I went exploring. Nobody stopped me, yelled at me, or said I couldn't go somewhere....very nice.


I could see why track day was cancelled. This was the chicane on the back straight


I didn't get these shots off the internet..... :biggrin:


I was determined to check out the old banking, and found this trail leading towards it


Didn't work out too well - had to take the panniers off and manhandle the 950 around  :dontknow:


Then left the bike on the trail and bundu-bashed until I got to a fence:


The banking is STEEP. And ROUGH. I don't care what the angle is....had to crawl the last bit, and didn't even get to the top....thinking of old cars and bikes doing 250 or 280 here made the hair on my neck stand up....that took some minerals, I can tell you.


The back side of the banking:


This is the spot where Jean-Pierre, or whatever the oke's name is in "Grand Prix", goes flying off the track and dies:



 
After tea-time it was time to go....on the way out I went by this magnificent sculpture.....any true F1 fan will know who the oke is...he was as old as I am now when he won the world championship. That means there's still hope for me..... :evil6: Vettel can kiss my hairy.....


Heading north from Monza, I had to go up the east side of Lake Como, where the GS rider at the petrol station who thought I was a hot bitch tried to get me to go. Problem is, the lake is shaped like an upside down Y, and I ended up on the east side of the west leg. Make sense? :biggrin:
Traffic in this area is hectic, it's very densely populated.

Forgot to mention how much the Ities LOVE their roundabouts.....which is good, because it lets traffic flow. Somewhere along this stretch up to Lake Como I went through FIVE in less than one k  :ricky:
The road up the east shore of the east leg of Lago Como is at the base of a vertical mountain, and as can be expected was infested with tunnels - I specifically counted them, forget how many...wrote it down somewhere.... but want to say 22 just in that 30-odd km stretch from LECCO north to where the road swings east down a valley.

Heading east towards TIRANO, where I planned on turning north to cross the Alps. It was 9 May, and flatlander me thought an Alpine crossing at that early date was a smashing idea.  
Regardless, things were getting very scenic....




At said TIRANO I did turn north, and the road started climbing steeply. At one point there were roadworks and traffic was diverted onto the old, twisting road, which passed under this new, slightly pornographic tunnel:


It wasn't long before the switchbacks, be they gentle ones at first, started, and I could feel my pulse picking up....


I only saw TWO other 950/990's the entire trip....this was at a petrol station on the way up the mountain. The oke came out of the cafe and gave me the mother of all dirty looks.... I had NO idea what his main complaint was....maybe my dirty, well-travelled bike made him look like the poser twat he was....
Either that, or MY Acra's without the baffles made his sound like a Vespa  :dontknow:


As he left a 1000 k's off his rear Scorpion on the concrete launching out of the garage,  I gave him the old reverse V-for-Victory just to show there were no hard feelings  :evil6:
 
You are back on air . . .Hell yeah!

Always a good read and thanks for sharing  :thumleft:

Were are you currently now, Still somewhere in Africa, Namibia if I remember correctly?
 

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