Namibia Adventure 101
- Thread starter jburger
- Start date
jburger
Race Dog
Day 5-6 - Fish River Canyon - Luderitz
There are few things as special as sunrise and sunset and Namibia is no exception. We woke up before sunrise as our body clocks had not yet adapted to the time zone difference, but it was worth watching the sunrise.
Sunrise from Canon Roadhouse
Horses only - I wonder if our "Ysterperde" would qualify?
We saw this sticker on the fuel pump at Canon Roadhouse. Adventure motorcyclists from afar had been here...
The road to Seeheim was in great condition and we made good time. We stopped for coffee at the Seeheim Hotel.
The Seeheim Hotel. They are expanding so it seems like business is good.
While we were having coffee a local farmer stopped there with two guests. They brought a Oryx (Gemsbok) head to be stuffed and mounted by the local taxidermist.
The farmer, Arnoldus, chatted to us and he said he hosted Jan Staal, Prof Johan Bakkes and some bikers for a trip similar to the "Dorsland Expedition". We were promptly offered accommodation on his farm should we be in the area. What amazingly friendly people.
An inhabitant of the bar
and two Springbuck making asses of themselves at the bar.
The view of the Seeheim Hotel from the top of the hill. You can see the where they are expanding the hotel.
From Seeheim it was back on tar all the way to Luderitz. At Aus we stopped again for fuel and something to drink. It was lunchtime and the crumbed, deep fried ice cream looked like an balanced meal - sugar, fat and starch.
The view of Aus as you enter the town.
Just outside of Aus we slowed down to look for the wild horses. We turned off and it it was just about 200m when we got the first sand. TG decided to wait while I rode out to take some photos. It wasn't too far before I stopped. I was still busy taking photo's when I heard the 650 approaching - TG changed her mind and followed after all. She made it through the sand without incident.
So far the change in landscape was quite subtle. However from Aus to Luderitz the change was more distinct. Dessert grassland, vast flat sandy stretches, dune fields and finally rocky landscape.
Getting to Luderitz, our first order of business was to get some accommodation. On the main road into Luderitz I saw a sign for KratzPlatz Accomodation and remembered reading about it.
We decided to give it a try. When the owner opened the door he was quite surprised to see us. He expected bikers for the rally but we were a day early. We certainly didn't know we were expected. Turns out he was under the impression that we were there for the rally he had organised.
KratzPlatz
After a beer and a shower (in that order) we felt human again. We decided to take it easy as TG had been nursing a cold for the last 2 days.
The next morning we went sightseeing at Kolmankuppe. According to www.addictedtotravel.com
"Kolmanskuppe, Namibiaâ??s most famous ghost town, sprang up in 1908 after diamonds were found. During the following years the little town was the centre of a veritable diamond rush â?? which filled it with life. The town reached its pinnacle in the twenties when it was home to 300 Germans and 800 Owambo contract workers. Large elegant house were built and its hospital even boasted Southern Africaâ??s first X-ray machine. However when richer diamond deposits were found further south operations moved to Oranjemund and Kolmanskuppe was soon abandoned."
Amazing how a town once so successful can end up like this...
The Ghost town
The old "Taxi"
"Deterioration"
Some old mining equipment
During the day bikes started arriving from all over. There was also a group that decided to make a trip of the rally. They took two weeks off and rode all the way from Port Elizabeth on dirt to attend the 2-day rally.
A Repsol KTM 640
KLR - no sidestand needed here...
There were 3 x KTM 640's, 2 x 990/950, a KLR and as 1200GS.
There are few things as special as sunrise and sunset and Namibia is no exception. We woke up before sunrise as our body clocks had not yet adapted to the time zone difference, but it was worth watching the sunrise.
Sunrise from Canon Roadhouse
Horses only - I wonder if our "Ysterperde" would qualify?
We saw this sticker on the fuel pump at Canon Roadhouse. Adventure motorcyclists from afar had been here...
The road to Seeheim was in great condition and we made good time. We stopped for coffee at the Seeheim Hotel.
The Seeheim Hotel. They are expanding so it seems like business is good.
While we were having coffee a local farmer stopped there with two guests. They brought a Oryx (Gemsbok) head to be stuffed and mounted by the local taxidermist.
The farmer, Arnoldus, chatted to us and he said he hosted Jan Staal, Prof Johan Bakkes and some bikers for a trip similar to the "Dorsland Expedition". We were promptly offered accommodation on his farm should we be in the area. What amazingly friendly people.
An inhabitant of the bar
and two Springbuck making asses of themselves at the bar.
The view of the Seeheim Hotel from the top of the hill. You can see the where they are expanding the hotel.
From Seeheim it was back on tar all the way to Luderitz. At Aus we stopped again for fuel and something to drink. It was lunchtime and the crumbed, deep fried ice cream looked like an balanced meal - sugar, fat and starch.
The view of Aus as you enter the town.
Just outside of Aus we slowed down to look for the wild horses. We turned off and it it was just about 200m when we got the first sand. TG decided to wait while I rode out to take some photos. It wasn't too far before I stopped. I was still busy taking photo's when I heard the 650 approaching - TG changed her mind and followed after all. She made it through the sand without incident.
So far the change in landscape was quite subtle. However from Aus to Luderitz the change was more distinct. Dessert grassland, vast flat sandy stretches, dune fields and finally rocky landscape.
Getting to Luderitz, our first order of business was to get some accommodation. On the main road into Luderitz I saw a sign for KratzPlatz Accomodation and remembered reading about it.
We decided to give it a try. When the owner opened the door he was quite surprised to see us. He expected bikers for the rally but we were a day early. We certainly didn't know we were expected. Turns out he was under the impression that we were there for the rally he had organised.
KratzPlatz
After a beer and a shower (in that order) we felt human again. We decided to take it easy as TG had been nursing a cold for the last 2 days.
The next morning we went sightseeing at Kolmankuppe. According to www.addictedtotravel.com
"Kolmanskuppe, Namibiaâ??s most famous ghost town, sprang up in 1908 after diamonds were found. During the following years the little town was the centre of a veritable diamond rush â?? which filled it with life. The town reached its pinnacle in the twenties when it was home to 300 Germans and 800 Owambo contract workers. Large elegant house were built and its hospital even boasted Southern Africaâ??s first X-ray machine. However when richer diamond deposits were found further south operations moved to Oranjemund and Kolmanskuppe was soon abandoned."
Amazing how a town once so successful can end up like this...
The Ghost town
The old "Taxi"
"Deterioration"
Some old mining equipment
During the day bikes started arriving from all over. There was also a group that decided to make a trip of the rally. They took two weeks off and rode all the way from Port Elizabeth on dirt to attend the 2-day rally.
A Repsol KTM 640
KLR - no sidestand needed here...
There were 3 x KTM 640's, 2 x 990/950, a KLR and as 1200GS.
Adventurer
Gentleman Dog
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Is this report going to be finished before the end of winter? 
ot:
ot:jburger
Race Dog
Day 7-8 Luderitz - Aus - Helmeringhausen - Betta - Sesriem
So it's off to some more dirt. The tar to Aus was boring and windy and after a quick drink at Aus we were off towards Helmeringhausen.
It wasn't long before we hit our second swarm of grasshoppers for the trip. Yellow splatter everywhere...
As we crested a hill, we saw something in the road down in the dip. As we got closer we realized that there were 3 bikers blocking the road. As we stopped we got offered a beer. It was a 1150GS, an old 650 and a quad on their way from Walvis Bay to the rally in Luderitz. After chatting and having a drink we went our own ways.
The ride was going well, good roads, beautiful scenery and soon we got to Helmeringhausen. We stopped to fill up both human and machine.
We were still enjoying a drink when three bikes pulled up. It seemed like all bikers in Namibia were going to the Kratzplatz rally They were Hedley from BMW Namibia on an F800GS, a friend on a KTM 990 and another friend and pillion on a 1200GS.
After chatting a while, we were invited to pop in when passing through Windhoek and we all left but not before TG, not used to her "big ass" panniers, ripped off the number plate off the 800. Luckily no damage other than the number plate but that would earn TG the nickname "Number plate killer" when we got to Windhoek.
Some amazing scenery
Namibia had quite a bit of rain earlier the year and it was visible by the amount of grass we saw on the plains. We also found two of these splashes of water.
I've mentioned before that, besides it's incredible beauty, the size (or lack thereof) of the towns and villages was the biggest surprise of Namibia. In fact when we got to Windhoek we only realized how much we enjoyed the small villages.
Looking at the map by now I realized that Spes Bona and Betta would be pretty small. When we got to the junction that is supposed to be Spes Bona we found that there was one farmhouse and that was all. It did make us wonder about what we would find at Betta....
Up to now we really haven't run into any deep sand - one sandpit on the C13 near the Fish River Canyon and that was all. It was about 8km from Betta when we hit a nasty piece of sand. Stand up, weight back and gently open the throttle.... At this point TG was slightly in front of me. At first there was firmer patches in between and she was doing well hopping from one to the other. Then as the hard patches disappeared the sand monster took control and the next moment she was down.
That must be one of the worst feelings ever, seeing that someone is going to go down, it happening in slow motion and being unable to do anything to prevent it.
After checking that she was ok I lifted the bike to release the pinned foot. The foot was hurting a bit but she could get along. A dutch couple in a 4x4 stopped asking if they could help - not much to do, no serious injuries so they're off again.
After picking up the bike and tying the left pannier - the one strap got ripped off, we left for Betta... slowly. TG couldn't change gears normally so she had to hook the lever with her heel.
There's so many things that goes through your mind when something like this happens. I decided to get to Betta and decide what to to from there.
Need I say more
The road ahead...
After a long 8km we reached Betta and as it was already late afternoon I decided to stay over. We filled up and arranged a room. Betta has some campsites and chalets, very nice and clean after a dusty day.
The campsite, accommodation and small shop is run by two Nama women, Engela and Sharleen. They were not only very efficient but also very friendly and it wasn't long before we had a few Tafels, a fire going and a two "braaipaks". This little shop sells almost everything you can dream of out here in the dessert - even ice cream.
Our home for the night
When we arrived at the camp the Dutch couple from before were camping there and their toddler was very interested in the bikes. After he sat on the bikes we all went off to make supper, agreeing to meet up afterwards for a drink around the fire.
We had a careful look at TG's foot for swelling and any signs that may indicate that there was more serious damage, but there was nothing of concern. We were both glad the TG spent the money on proper boots for the trip.
Sunset
Reception and Accommodation at Betta
Sunrise at Betta
Next it was off to Sesriem and Sossusvlei. TG's foot was feeling better after a night's rest, some Voltaren and painkillers.
After many kilometers we got to "Wereldend" (End of the world).
And tomorrow's lunch will be..... almost seeing into the future.
We stopped occasionally for a "blink break", This time we also had coffee. As Gunda says "location, location, location". That's one of the benefits of being self sufficient, you can stop anywhere, have coffee, a small meal or even stay over if needed.
It also must have been one of very few trees on that road.
We saw this huge herd of springbok along the road. There must have been in excess of 400. It was also some of the first red dunes that we would see.
TG's birthday co-coincided with our departure so I decided to spoil her a bit by staying at the Sossusvlei lodge. Initially I planned to book but was advised against it. We pitched up tired, dusty and with TG still hobbling around with her sore foot and we got a very good price. This was a very luxurious oasis in the middle of the dessert.
So it's off to some more dirt. The tar to Aus was boring and windy and after a quick drink at Aus we were off towards Helmeringhausen.
It wasn't long before we hit our second swarm of grasshoppers for the trip. Yellow splatter everywhere...
As we crested a hill, we saw something in the road down in the dip. As we got closer we realized that there were 3 bikers blocking the road. As we stopped we got offered a beer. It was a 1150GS, an old 650 and a quad on their way from Walvis Bay to the rally in Luderitz. After chatting and having a drink we went our own ways.
The ride was going well, good roads, beautiful scenery and soon we got to Helmeringhausen. We stopped to fill up both human and machine.
We were still enjoying a drink when three bikes pulled up. It seemed like all bikers in Namibia were going to the Kratzplatz rally
They were Hedley from BMW Namibia on an F800GS, a friend on a KTM 990 and another friend and pillion on a 1200GS.After chatting a while, we were invited to pop in when passing through Windhoek and we all left but not before TG, not used to her "big ass" panniers, ripped off the number plate off the 800. Luckily no damage other than the number plate but that would earn TG the nickname "Number plate killer" when we got to Windhoek.
Some amazing scenery
Namibia had quite a bit of rain earlier the year and it was visible by the amount of grass we saw on the plains. We also found two of these splashes of water.
I've mentioned before that, besides it's incredible beauty, the size (or lack thereof) of the towns and villages was the biggest surprise of Namibia. In fact when we got to Windhoek we only realized how much we enjoyed the small villages.
Looking at the map by now I realized that Spes Bona and Betta would be pretty small. When we got to the junction that is supposed to be Spes Bona we found that there was one farmhouse and that was all. It did make us wonder about what we would find at Betta....
Up to now we really haven't run into any deep sand - one sandpit on the C13 near the Fish River Canyon and that was all. It was about 8km from Betta when we hit a nasty piece of sand. Stand up, weight back and gently open the throttle.... At this point TG was slightly in front of me. At first there was firmer patches in between and she was doing well hopping from one to the other. Then as the hard patches disappeared the sand monster took control and the next moment she was down.
That must be one of the worst feelings ever, seeing that someone is going to go down, it happening in slow motion and being unable to do anything to prevent it.
After checking that she was ok I lifted the bike to release the pinned foot. The foot was hurting a bit but she could get along. A dutch couple in a 4x4 stopped asking if they could help - not much to do, no serious injuries so they're off again.
After picking up the bike and tying the left pannier - the one strap got ripped off, we left for Betta... slowly. TG couldn't change gears normally so she had to hook the lever with her heel.
There's so many things that goes through your mind when something like this happens. I decided to get to Betta and decide what to to from there.
Need I say more
The road ahead...
After a long 8km we reached Betta and as it was already late afternoon I decided to stay over. We filled up and arranged a room. Betta has some campsites and chalets, very nice and clean after a dusty day.
The campsite, accommodation and small shop is run by two Nama women, Engela and Sharleen. They were not only very efficient but also very friendly and it wasn't long before we had a few Tafels, a fire going and a two "braaipaks". This little shop sells almost everything you can dream of out here in the dessert - even ice cream.
Our home for the night
When we arrived at the camp the Dutch couple from before were camping there and their toddler was very interested in the bikes. After he sat on the bikes we all went off to make supper, agreeing to meet up afterwards for a drink around the fire.
We had a careful look at TG's foot for swelling and any signs that may indicate that there was more serious damage, but there was nothing of concern. We were both glad the TG spent the money on proper boots for the trip.
Sunset
Reception and Accommodation at Betta
Sunrise at Betta
Next it was off to Sesriem and Sossusvlei. TG's foot was feeling better after a night's rest, some Voltaren and painkillers.
After many kilometers we got to "Wereldend" (End of the world).
And tomorrow's lunch will be..... almost seeing into the future.
We stopped occasionally for a "blink break", This time we also had coffee. As Gunda says "location, location, location". That's one of the benefits of being self sufficient, you can stop anywhere, have coffee, a small meal or even stay over if needed.
It also must have been one of very few trees on that road.
We saw this huge herd of springbok along the road. There must have been in excess of 400. It was also some of the first red dunes that we would see.
TG's birthday co-coincided with our departure so I decided to spoil her a bit by staying at the Sossusvlei lodge. Initially I planned to book but was advised against it. We pitched up tired, dusty and with TG still hobbling around with her sore foot and we got a very good price. This was a very luxurious oasis in the middle of the dessert.
Great report and pictures :thumleft:
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing
Adventurer
Gentleman Dog
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Wereldend......memories.... truly 200km from ANYWHERE.
Namibia has stopped calling me....now it's SHOUTING!!! ;D
Namibia has stopped calling me....now it's SHOUTING!!! ;D
jburger
Race Dog
Adventurer said:
You're telling me.... this was our first visit and we're hardly back but I'm ready to go back anytime - in fact it feels like I have unfinished business there...
So when are we going?
ot: ;D
Adventurer
Gentleman Dog
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JustBiking said:Adventurer said:
You're telling me.... this was our first visit and we're hardly back but I'm ready to go back anytime - in fact it feels like I have unfinished business there...
So when are we going?
September is starting to look good.....
ot:
Tonteldoos
Race Dog
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Nice !! well done you 2, Will have start making a plan.. ot:
ot:TravelGravel
Pack Dog
Ag die heimwee .... Can't we just go back tomorrow? If memory serves I never did get around to the Amarula Cheesecake.
BTW .... I need to post an errata. I did not fall off my bike (contrary to pictorial evidence) I suffered an illegal dismount. The difference between the two is a matter of respect. If you say that you fell off your bike because of evil sand, people think that your are a twit. When you say you suffered an illegal dismount people respect you 'cos it sounds more difficult to do.... :imaposer:
BTW .... I need to post an errata. I did not fall off my bike (contrary to pictorial evidence) I suffered an illegal dismount. The difference between the two is a matter of respect. If you say that you fell off your bike because of evil sand, people think that your are a twit. When you say you suffered an illegal dismount people respect you 'cos it sounds more difficult to do.... :imaposer:
Adventurer
Gentleman Dog
- Joined
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- 17,108
- Reaction score
- 4
- Location
- Kempen Germany
- Bike
- KTM 1290 Super Adventure
Did you guys have apple pie at Solitaire? If not, good enough excuse to go back, if you did, good enough excuse to go back for more..... :biggrin: ot:
ot:jburger
Race Dog
Adventurer said:Did you guys have apple pie at Solitaire? If not, good enough excuse to go back, if you did, good enough excuse to go back for more..... :biggrin:
We did - can't do a trip without it. However I must be getting old - can't remember how it tastes anymore
jburger
Race Dog
Day 9 - 10 - Sesriem - Solitaire - Walvisbay - Swakopmund
It was time to go and visit the dunes and the "vleie" (Deadvlei and Sossusvlei). We were up early and after a hearty breakfast out on the patio we were off to Sossusvlei.
The sunrise from the breakfast patio
We heard a lot of reports that the 60km of tar to Sossusvlei was in really bad condition. There's a sign in Sesriem indicating NWR is busy with some upgrades and the road was definitely on their list as it was not bad.
One of the great things of Namibia is how the wild animals seems almost tame. On the road to Sossusvlei we saw a Jackal next to the road, as we passed he looked up at us and just carried on with his business. Pity I didn't get a picture...
From the parking we took an URI to Deadvlei. There's some serious sand here - only for the very brave Even URI's sometimes get stuck here.
The views near Deadvlei
Deadvlei - unreal
It's amazing that this is all located in the middle of a dessert.
When we were negotiating the rate the previous day they also offered us a room in the Sossusvlei Dessert Camp for significantly less - well to be precise just N$200 more that a campsite at Sesriem.
For N$200 more than a Sesriem campsite you get a place like this. Our dutch friends from Betta didn't even get hot water for their N$600 campsite.
Sunset in the dessert...
And sunrise the next morning....
A lone springbok having an early morning drink at the water hole.
After everything we heard about the apple pie at Solitaire, this was to be the day.
"On the road again..." It was a perfect morning. Not a breeze, the downside was that whenever a car would come past, the dust would just in the air for ages.
In order to keep out of each other's dust, we decided to each ride our own tempo. I would go ahead and just make sure I could still see TG's headlight in the distance.
As some others reported I also found a springbok running ahead in the road, I slowed down and it crossed the road to return the other way.
It happened a second time, however this time it tried to escape through the fence and momentarily got stuck.
Before we knew it, we made it to Solitaire. We refueled, had some apple pie and coffee and it was time to continue.
The compulsory Tropic of Capricorn photos
TravelGravel
me
The most unlikely place to put an advertisement for catamaran cruses - in the middle of the dessert
TG approaching with the stunning Namibia dessert in the background.
Kuiseb Pass
The road from Solitaire goes north and then turns west over the mountains to cross the dessert to Walvis bay. This is where you'll find the Kuiseb pass. Here we also found a few kilometers of tar winding through the mountains.
After Kuiseb pass it was into the dessert again. It was so flat that you could see for miles in all directions. About three quarters of the way we had a quick stop. We had a drink, a snack and a 15min rest in the shade of the bikes. It was the only shade available.
For the last 60 kilometers into Walvis was as hard and smooth as tar.
We made it to Walvisbay but didn't even stop. It was time to find a place to stay so we made for Swakopmund. It was overcast and wet although not raining and was in general miserable.
In Swakopmund TG got us some pizza while I got us some Wimpy coffee. We found a nice B&B close to the beach run by an Italian couple - we even got a garage for the bikes.
In Luderitz TG had the flu. It was my turn now coughing, sneezing and feeling miserable.
The next day we took it easy. There were a ton of things we wanted to do but between the weather and me feeling sick we, we not in a very active mood. We were lazy and eventually just saw the museum and walked around the promenade.
It seems like it was not only South Africa suffering from a lack of electricity. There were a number of power failures and some of the restaurants even had special menus with the dishes that could be made without electricity.
We spent the evening at the Swakopmund Brauhaus having some German beer and food. The food was good and there was quite a lekker atmosphere.
We've planned the trip up to Swakopmund leaving the rest flexible. Due to a number circumstances it took us longer to get here than originally planned but we had good times and met good people. We were however now reaching the turning point and soon we'd be going southwards, home...
We did however still had some business in Windhoek, Hedley, the BMW dealer invited us to pop in.
It was time to go and visit the dunes and the "vleie" (Deadvlei and Sossusvlei). We were up early and after a hearty breakfast out on the patio we were off to Sossusvlei.
The sunrise from the breakfast patio
We heard a lot of reports that the 60km of tar to Sossusvlei was in really bad condition. There's a sign in Sesriem indicating NWR is busy with some upgrades and the road was definitely on their list as it was not bad.
One of the great things of Namibia is how the wild animals seems almost tame. On the road to Sossusvlei we saw a Jackal next to the road, as we passed he looked up at us and just carried on with his business. Pity I didn't get a picture...
From the parking we took an URI to Deadvlei. There's some serious sand here - only for the very brave
Even URI's sometimes get stuck here.
The views near Deadvlei
Deadvlei - unreal
It's amazing that this is all located in the middle of a dessert.
When we were negotiating the rate the previous day they also offered us a room in the Sossusvlei Dessert Camp for significantly less - well to be precise just N$200 more that a campsite at Sesriem.
For N$200 more than a Sesriem campsite you get a place like this. Our dutch friends from Betta didn't even get hot water for their N$600 campsite.
Sunset in the dessert...
And sunrise the next morning....
A lone springbok having an early morning drink at the water hole.
After everything we heard about the apple pie at Solitaire, this was to be the day.
"On the road again..." It was a perfect morning. Not a breeze, the downside was that whenever a car would come past, the dust would just in the air for ages.
In order to keep out of each other's dust, we decided to each ride our own tempo. I would go ahead and just make sure I could still see TG's headlight in the distance.
As some others reported I also found a springbok running ahead in the road, I slowed down and it crossed the road to return the other way.
It happened a second time, however this time it tried to escape through the fence and momentarily got stuck.
Before we knew it, we made it to Solitaire. We refueled, had some apple pie and coffee and it was time to continue.
The compulsory Tropic of Capricorn photos
TravelGravel
me
The most unlikely place to put an advertisement for catamaran cruses - in the middle of the dessert
TG approaching with the stunning Namibia dessert in the background.
Kuiseb Pass
The road from Solitaire goes north and then turns west over the mountains to cross the dessert to Walvis bay. This is where you'll find the Kuiseb pass. Here we also found a few kilometers of tar winding through the mountains.
After Kuiseb pass it was into the dessert again. It was so flat that you could see for miles in all directions. About three quarters of the way we had a quick stop. We had a drink, a snack and a 15min rest in the shade of the bikes. It was the only shade available.
For the last 60 kilometers into Walvis was as hard and smooth as tar.
We made it to Walvisbay but didn't even stop. It was time to find a place to stay so we made for Swakopmund. It was overcast and wet although not raining and was in general miserable.
In Swakopmund TG got us some pizza while I got us some Wimpy coffee. We found a nice B&B close to the beach run by an Italian couple - we even got a garage for the bikes.
In Luderitz TG had the flu. It was my turn now coughing, sneezing and feeling miserable.
The next day we took it easy. There were a ton of things we wanted to do but between the weather and me feeling sick we, we not in a very active mood. We were lazy and eventually just saw the museum and walked around the promenade.
It seems like it was not only South Africa suffering from a lack of electricity. There were a number of power failures and some of the restaurants even had special menus with the dishes that could be made without electricity.
We spent the evening at the Swakopmund Brauhaus having some German beer and food. The food was good and there was quite a lekker atmosphere.
We've planned the trip up to Swakopmund leaving the rest flexible. Due to a number circumstances it took us longer to get here than originally planned but we had good times and met good people. We were however now reaching the turning point and soon we'd be going southwards, home...
We did however still had some business in Windhoek, Hedley, the BMW dealer invited us to pop in.
jburger
Race Dog
Day 11 - 12 Swakopmund - Windhoek - Rehoboth - Keetmanshoop
I really wanted to ride the C28 to Windhoek over the Khomas Hochland but I was still a bit concerned about TG's foot. We also had a bit of "target fixation", forgetting about the journey and focused on the destination, so we decided to take the B2 (tar) to Windhoek. Well it does mean that we definitely have to go back.
Outside Usakos we got a glimpse of Spitzkoppe and I started regretting not having more time to see all the sights in this area too. I also started adding destinations to my mental list for the next trip.
At Usakos we filled up and stopped at Namib Wuste for a snack and a hot drink. From there we high-tailed to Windhoek stopping only in Okahandja to fill up.
We made good time to Windhoek and unlike the dessert we've seen so far Windhoek is located on the northern side of the Khomas Hochland - very mountainous and incredibly scenic.
I am blaming the incredible lack of photos on our target fixation.
The Lonely Planet listed a number of places to stay, but one attracted TG's attention, the Chameleon B&B and Backpackers. Apparently they had two pet Meerkats that sealed the deal. Needless to say the meerkats were long gone by the time we got there....
While checking in, trying to adapt to the very distinct way that backpackers are run, two more bikers pitched up. It was no other than Red and Stephan. We exchanged contact details before they left as we had taken the last room (sorry Red & Stephan).
After visiting with Hedley at BMW we headed for Joe's Beerhouse. Stephan called and they joined us for dinner. We spent an enjoyable evening with Red & Stephan.
Next morning we headed off towards Mariental. Outside Rehoboth we stopped for coffee. This restaurant had a young baboon on a leash.
From there it was on to Mariental. They coffee stop seemed to have help our target fixation and although we we were headed home some of the holiday spirit was back.
Outside Mariental we decided to check out the Hardap dam and have lunch there. It was then off to Keetmanshoop.
We reached Keetmanshoop at sunset finding a good B&B. The B&B ordered dinner in for and and we had an early evening.
The next morning it was off to the quiver tree forest and giants playground. We stopped at reception to buy tickets and TG immediately took to a 6 month old puppy dog. As she was paying attention to the puppy she saw another dog approaching from the corner of her eye - as it got to her she put out her hand and looked up at it and was very surprised to see that that it was a pet warthog rather than a dog.
The quiver tree forest. Some of these trees (actually they're aloes) are 200 years old. They only start producing flowers when they're 20-30 yars old.
Giants playground
and the people's toys
This was the last of the sights and we were on the road to Upington.
Pitstop for coffee
We got to Upington after dark opting for a self catering room we saw advertised at the border.
The next day we headed straight home from Upington. Our timing was impeccable as we came across more tahn 10 groups of 4x4 apparently on their way to Namibia. At least we beat the rush of the South African school holidays.
The closer we got the busier the traffic, coming from Namibia where you see the dust of an approching car and 30 min later it passes you to the rush of Gauteng. We realized that it was going to take time to adapt to the Gauteng rush.
We stopped at the Pinehaven Sasol for a drink and discovered that coffee/hot chocolate is free for bikers.
Finally we were home and glad to be back but sad to have left...
I really wanted to ride the C28 to Windhoek over the Khomas Hochland but I was still a bit concerned about TG's foot. We also had a bit of "target fixation", forgetting about the journey and focused on the destination, so we decided to take the B2 (tar) to Windhoek. Well it does mean that we definitely have to go back.
Outside Usakos we got a glimpse of Spitzkoppe and I started regretting not having more time to see all the sights in this area too. I also started adding destinations to my mental list for the next trip.
At Usakos we filled up and stopped at Namib Wuste for a snack and a hot drink. From there we high-tailed to Windhoek stopping only in Okahandja to fill up.
We made good time to Windhoek and unlike the dessert we've seen so far Windhoek is located on the northern side of the Khomas Hochland - very mountainous and incredibly scenic.
I am blaming the incredible lack of photos on our target fixation.
The Lonely Planet listed a number of places to stay, but one attracted TG's attention, the Chameleon B&B and Backpackers. Apparently they had two pet Meerkats that sealed the deal
. Needless to say the meerkats were long gone by the time we got there....While checking in, trying to adapt to the very distinct way that backpackers are run, two more bikers pitched up. It was no other than Red and Stephan. We exchanged contact details before they left as we had taken the last room (sorry Red & Stephan).
After visiting with Hedley at BMW we headed for Joe's Beerhouse. Stephan called and they joined us for dinner. We spent an enjoyable evening with Red & Stephan.
Next morning we headed off towards Mariental. Outside Rehoboth we stopped for coffee. This restaurant had a young baboon on a leash.
From there it was on to Mariental. They coffee stop seemed to have help our target fixation and although we we were headed home some of the holiday spirit was back.
Outside Mariental we decided to check out the Hardap dam and have lunch there. It was then off to Keetmanshoop.
We reached Keetmanshoop at sunset finding a good B&B. The B&B ordered dinner in for and and we had an early evening.
The next morning it was off to the quiver tree forest and giants playground. We stopped at reception to buy tickets and TG immediately took to a 6 month old puppy dog. As she was paying attention to the puppy she saw another dog approaching from the corner of her eye - as it got to her she put out her hand and looked up at it and was very surprised to see that that it was a pet warthog rather than a dog.
The quiver tree forest. Some of these trees (actually they're aloes) are 200 years old. They only start producing flowers when they're 20-30 yars old.
Giants playground
and the people's toys
This was the last of the sights and we were on the road to Upington.
Pitstop for coffee
We got to Upington after dark opting for a self catering room we saw advertised at the border.
The next day we headed straight home from Upington. Our timing was impeccable as we came across more tahn 10 groups of 4x4 apparently on their way to Namibia. At least we beat the rush of the South African school holidays.
The closer we got the busier the traffic, coming from Namibia where you see the dust of an approching car and 30 min later it passes you to the rush of Gauteng. We realized that it was going to take time to adapt to the Gauteng rush.
We stopped at the Pinehaven Sasol for a drink and discovered that coffee/hot chocolate is free for bikers.
Finally we were home and glad to be back but sad to have left...
Great report, great pics, thanks very much. We are looking to do maybe a similar trip in two weeks, maybe come back down through Botswana wanna come with?
Plothond
Race Dog
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2006
- Messages
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- Location
- Pretoria East - Home of Jameson
- Bike
- KTM 1090 Adventure R
Well done
Lovely report and thanks for completing it
Lovely report and thanks for completing it
SGB
Race Dog
Nice, thanks for sharing
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