LLTHB
Pack Dog
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2010
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- KTM 890 Adventure
Ride Report – Section 3
Trip: Durban to Namibia, Namibia to Durban via Caprivi Strip and Botswana
Bike: 2009 BMW 1200 GS Adventure – “Sylvia” or the “Pig” or the “Donkey”
Accessories: Handle bar raisers, Oil and light guards, Throttle locker – MOST IMPORTANT
Tyres: Metzler Tourance – 2.4 & 2.6 on tar – 1.8 & 1.8 on dirt
Clothing: Santiago Boots, BMW Rally 2 Suit, Richa Summer Gloves
Safety: BMW System 6 Helmet, Leatt Brace, Noise Clipper Ear Plugs
The author of this article is new to Adventure Riding, but has owned bikes since the age of 14, now aged 46 so that makes 32 years of riding. Throw in a few races for Suzuki years back and quite a bit of off road riding, the author admits to being a newbie to this game, but not a total novice.
Certain rules need to be applied when one is a long ride like this, 7000ks planned, but you should always be flexible to what arises around you unless you are on a strict time budget. Rules such as doing your laundry every day, shaving when you can, trying to avoid breaking into a sweat, not riding at night, reducing speed on dirt or in bad riding areas should always be taken into account. But, you can do what you want, you have the right to risk. A fellow biker – Double Diamond – did a solo trip to Namibia last year and all said to him – You are mad to go on your own. I don’t agree – He would still be at home if he didn’t just do it alone. Yes, it is better to go in a small group, no argument – but you show me someone else who wanted to leave Durban when I did, has 3 weeks to ride a bike, wants to stay mainly in chalets with a few nights camping etc etc and certainly I will ride with him. Not many people are lucky enough to take such a long break, certainly I give thanks for all my blessings that allow me to undertake such a trip.
Saturday 13th Feb 2010 – Sossusvlei Desert Camp to Walvis Bay, Municipal Chalets, Walvis Bay – R330 per person
Plan for today was to head for Sossuvlei area, look at the dunes and then take a gentle ride to Solitare guest house, which all talk about as being awesome and a compulsory place to stay, except that when I walked in I didn’t see the DSTV dish for the rugby. Saw beautiful rooms, great pool, great bar – but no TV, and with the Sharks and the Stormers playing, TV was needed. Made the big decision to press onto Walvis Bay.
The road from Sesriem to Sossusvlei is tarred, a nice easy ride of 60ks each way, beautiful scenery. Dunes are awesome. Tried to set up a hot air balloon ride, not operational at present, so that did not work, helicopter flips also a problem. Rode into Sossusvlei, parked the bike in the parking area and for R110 you get a shuttle that takes you right into the vlei itself. Really is great.
Headed back on the tar road to Sesriem and took the C19 to Solitare, planning to stay over here. C19 is good, sandy patches in areas that snatch at your front wheel, but generally good. The roadside slaughter continues with the poor buck bolting into the fences. Solitare guest house looks great, camping and rooms, just no DSTV. Then took the C14 to Walvis Bay. Man, parts of this road are really bad from soft sandy patches point of view. Front wheel grabber, get your pulse up a bit type of road.
In one area I just knew we were going down, doing about 70, the front wheel was at about a 45 degree angle, I opened up as usual but had to stamp my foot down to prevent going down. All well and good on a normal bike to stamp your foot down, however, not so clever when you have panniers. My calf hit the pannier so hard I thought the leg had broken. A “lamie” of note. Leg went numb, totally useless almost immediately. Stopped to check things out, leg OK if you don’t need feeling in it, just totally numb, cant feel your ankle, foot etc. Carried on with the C14, but be warned, this is not a happy road. You cannot for a moment relax, you need to stand all the time, really was draining. Came across the The Rostock Ritz, a really fancy B&B right in the desert, leg was sore as hell, had only planned a days ride of 200ks, was already on 350ks of hard riding and Walvis was still 110ks away.
Pulled into the Ritz, really steep arrival area as it is on hill, turned Sylvia on the slope, and then let her down by dropping her. She was OK, but the leg took another blow as I went over. Well at least I was in the parking lot of the hotel, could see the pool, could see the bar, but no DSTV dish. Just my luck, no TV. Back on Sylvia, vasbyt, and finished the last 110ks to Walvis. So a total of 460ks covered, of which 120 were on good tar – 60ks into the Vlei area, 60ks out and the rest all soft dirt roads.
Stayed in the Municipal Chalets on Walvis, clean, spacious, self catering place. 1 Star. Supper and rugby at the Pier, a “floating” type restaurant bar. Of course, now that I am on the West Coast, about as far as you can get from the East Coast where I live, my phone rings with a job offer, needed offshore ASAP.
So, maybe the ride ends sooner than planned, hoping to stall them for a few weeks.
Sunday 14th Feb 2010 – Walvis Bay to Swakopmund, Hansa Hotel – R1100 per person
Needed pampering. Only rode 30ks today, all on tar, chose a good hotel, needed internet to work on the job offer, need good meals, lie in a bath. Leg was still numb, decided to go for a run as cant skip, keep tripping on the rope. Shambles. Got 20 minutes away from the lodge and the leg just went all wooden again. Hobbled home, did some serious stretching and it looks like it will improve. Try run again tonight. Enough reporting, time to drink beer, eat Eisbein, chase German chicks. Tomorrow is Monday, onto Windhoek to service Sylvia on Tuesday morning.
The phone rings again. Needed to return immediately to Durban. In Swakopmund. Distance is about 3100 kilometers, a fair way to go when one is in a hurry. But, must be done.
Plan to leave Swakop early morning, ride to Windhoek, cross Nambia, enter Botswansa and head for Kang. Overnight in Kang which is roughly half way, then head for SA and home.
Leave the Hansa hotel at 05h00, plan to do about 1400 ks today, so a long haul. Icy cold sea mist to see me off, freezing cold when you move through it. Only extends for about 10ks, but still you can get cold in those 10ks. Hit the sun, good tar road all the way, climb the escarpment and into Windhoek. Stop for a meal and a stretch. Cut straight across Nambia and enter Botswana, no worries at border crossing, had all the right paperwork. Good tar all the way, no potholes, no cops, light traffic. Sylivia content at 165ks, comfortable.
Missed the small hotel at Kang, has changed name a few times, was a Shell, now an Excel petrol station I think. Small comfortable room, about R500, awesome swimming pool to cool off in. Food not to bad, safe clean place. Head down the Trans Kalahari highway, keep a good look out for game on either side of the road. Leave Botswana, no problems, enter South Africa – wow, what a difference – surly staff, poor service, you name it, they got it all. Shocking.
Platinum Highway – Toll road – goats, cows, pedestrians, at times single lane – madness, how can they call this a toll road. Came into Pretoria and found that I had set GPS to shortest route – it kept forcing me through the center of town so in the middle of the day I went right thru Pretoria, past the prison, into town square. Just a hell hole, cant believe it looks like Point area in Durban or Hillbrow in Jhb. Litter all over, hawkers, no tourist would ever go there.
Through Pta, down the Ben Schoeman onto the N3 to Durban. Massive storm blowing behind me just past Van Reenens. Huge thunderstorms, but I was ahead of them all the way. Stayed dry.
Into Durban after 3000ks in 2 days, went dancing. Iron Butt.
Summary of the trip:
• Awesome, will do again soon, but make sure I head to Angola way. Come home via Caprivi.
• The 1200 BMW Adventure to me was the best choice for this trip, but she is heavy. Very heavy. You plan around the weight though, learn to stop on level ground, no downhills etc.
• Awesome riding position, comfortable and the big screen is a must. The protection afforded the rider is really great.
• The ABS does work, and it does work well on gravel, but I turn it off for the technical sections, when you want a wheel to stop, you want it to stop. You cannot stop on a steep uphill and have the brakes not work. You will simply slide back until you fall.
• Adjusting the suspension on the move is also a feature that was used a lot. You continually change the setting on such long trips, helps your butt.
• BMW system 6 helmet is good, but my face got burnt all the time. Did help to ride with the dark visor down to reduce sun burn, would prefer a helmet with a peak.
• BMW Rallye Suit 2 was great, even in the heat. Use a camelbak all the time, helps with concentration.
• Don’t take so much clothing, you don’t need it.
• Under the riding suit I found the Falke underwear shorts were awesome. No seams to irritate you and they stay dry. Nearly 10 000ks, no monkey butt, no itching at all. Wash at night, they dry in a few hours.
• Socks – best were MX Fox type long socks – wool, wash at night, dry real quick.
• Tools and spares – took air compressor and 2 puncture kits, also took a spare tube that could fit both front and back tire in case of massive side wall tear – sort of a limp home type deal, tire levers as well.
• Don’t put your leg down on the dirt when you have panniers. ( I would re think hard panniers, may go soft panniers next time.)
• Tank bag is great – you stop at Wimpy, just unhook it and take it with you, all your valuables safe.
• Spare key must be hidden on the bike, you lose your key, you will not start your BMW.
• Throttle locker – without it I would not have made the ride as safely as I did. Takes away all the tiredness you get in your right hand from holding on.
• 2 sets of gloves is cool – change them often, changes your grip position slightly
• That’s it, Ride safe.
Trip: Durban to Namibia, Namibia to Durban via Caprivi Strip and Botswana
Bike: 2009 BMW 1200 GS Adventure – “Sylvia” or the “Pig” or the “Donkey”
Accessories: Handle bar raisers, Oil and light guards, Throttle locker – MOST IMPORTANT
Tyres: Metzler Tourance – 2.4 & 2.6 on tar – 1.8 & 1.8 on dirt
Clothing: Santiago Boots, BMW Rally 2 Suit, Richa Summer Gloves
Safety: BMW System 6 Helmet, Leatt Brace, Noise Clipper Ear Plugs
The author of this article is new to Adventure Riding, but has owned bikes since the age of 14, now aged 46 so that makes 32 years of riding. Throw in a few races for Suzuki years back and quite a bit of off road riding, the author admits to being a newbie to this game, but not a total novice.
Certain rules need to be applied when one is a long ride like this, 7000ks planned, but you should always be flexible to what arises around you unless you are on a strict time budget. Rules such as doing your laundry every day, shaving when you can, trying to avoid breaking into a sweat, not riding at night, reducing speed on dirt or in bad riding areas should always be taken into account. But, you can do what you want, you have the right to risk. A fellow biker – Double Diamond – did a solo trip to Namibia last year and all said to him – You are mad to go on your own. I don’t agree – He would still be at home if he didn’t just do it alone. Yes, it is better to go in a small group, no argument – but you show me someone else who wanted to leave Durban when I did, has 3 weeks to ride a bike, wants to stay mainly in chalets with a few nights camping etc etc and certainly I will ride with him. Not many people are lucky enough to take such a long break, certainly I give thanks for all my blessings that allow me to undertake such a trip.
Saturday 13th Feb 2010 – Sossusvlei Desert Camp to Walvis Bay, Municipal Chalets, Walvis Bay – R330 per person
Plan for today was to head for Sossuvlei area, look at the dunes and then take a gentle ride to Solitare guest house, which all talk about as being awesome and a compulsory place to stay, except that when I walked in I didn’t see the DSTV dish for the rugby. Saw beautiful rooms, great pool, great bar – but no TV, and with the Sharks and the Stormers playing, TV was needed. Made the big decision to press onto Walvis Bay.
The road from Sesriem to Sossusvlei is tarred, a nice easy ride of 60ks each way, beautiful scenery. Dunes are awesome. Tried to set up a hot air balloon ride, not operational at present, so that did not work, helicopter flips also a problem. Rode into Sossusvlei, parked the bike in the parking area and for R110 you get a shuttle that takes you right into the vlei itself. Really is great.
Headed back on the tar road to Sesriem and took the C19 to Solitare, planning to stay over here. C19 is good, sandy patches in areas that snatch at your front wheel, but generally good. The roadside slaughter continues with the poor buck bolting into the fences. Solitare guest house looks great, camping and rooms, just no DSTV. Then took the C14 to Walvis Bay. Man, parts of this road are really bad from soft sandy patches point of view. Front wheel grabber, get your pulse up a bit type of road.
In one area I just knew we were going down, doing about 70, the front wheel was at about a 45 degree angle, I opened up as usual but had to stamp my foot down to prevent going down. All well and good on a normal bike to stamp your foot down, however, not so clever when you have panniers. My calf hit the pannier so hard I thought the leg had broken. A “lamie” of note. Leg went numb, totally useless almost immediately. Stopped to check things out, leg OK if you don’t need feeling in it, just totally numb, cant feel your ankle, foot etc. Carried on with the C14, but be warned, this is not a happy road. You cannot for a moment relax, you need to stand all the time, really was draining. Came across the The Rostock Ritz, a really fancy B&B right in the desert, leg was sore as hell, had only planned a days ride of 200ks, was already on 350ks of hard riding and Walvis was still 110ks away.
Pulled into the Ritz, really steep arrival area as it is on hill, turned Sylvia on the slope, and then let her down by dropping her. She was OK, but the leg took another blow as I went over. Well at least I was in the parking lot of the hotel, could see the pool, could see the bar, but no DSTV dish. Just my luck, no TV. Back on Sylvia, vasbyt, and finished the last 110ks to Walvis. So a total of 460ks covered, of which 120 were on good tar – 60ks into the Vlei area, 60ks out and the rest all soft dirt roads.
Stayed in the Municipal Chalets on Walvis, clean, spacious, self catering place. 1 Star. Supper and rugby at the Pier, a “floating” type restaurant bar. Of course, now that I am on the West Coast, about as far as you can get from the East Coast where I live, my phone rings with a job offer, needed offshore ASAP.
So, maybe the ride ends sooner than planned, hoping to stall them for a few weeks.
Sunday 14th Feb 2010 – Walvis Bay to Swakopmund, Hansa Hotel – R1100 per person
Needed pampering. Only rode 30ks today, all on tar, chose a good hotel, needed internet to work on the job offer, need good meals, lie in a bath. Leg was still numb, decided to go for a run as cant skip, keep tripping on the rope. Shambles. Got 20 minutes away from the lodge and the leg just went all wooden again. Hobbled home, did some serious stretching and it looks like it will improve. Try run again tonight. Enough reporting, time to drink beer, eat Eisbein, chase German chicks. Tomorrow is Monday, onto Windhoek to service Sylvia on Tuesday morning.
The phone rings again. Needed to return immediately to Durban. In Swakopmund. Distance is about 3100 kilometers, a fair way to go when one is in a hurry. But, must be done.
Plan to leave Swakop early morning, ride to Windhoek, cross Nambia, enter Botswansa and head for Kang. Overnight in Kang which is roughly half way, then head for SA and home.
Leave the Hansa hotel at 05h00, plan to do about 1400 ks today, so a long haul. Icy cold sea mist to see me off, freezing cold when you move through it. Only extends for about 10ks, but still you can get cold in those 10ks. Hit the sun, good tar road all the way, climb the escarpment and into Windhoek. Stop for a meal and a stretch. Cut straight across Nambia and enter Botswana, no worries at border crossing, had all the right paperwork. Good tar all the way, no potholes, no cops, light traffic. Sylivia content at 165ks, comfortable.
Missed the small hotel at Kang, has changed name a few times, was a Shell, now an Excel petrol station I think. Small comfortable room, about R500, awesome swimming pool to cool off in. Food not to bad, safe clean place. Head down the Trans Kalahari highway, keep a good look out for game on either side of the road. Leave Botswana, no problems, enter South Africa – wow, what a difference – surly staff, poor service, you name it, they got it all. Shocking.
Platinum Highway – Toll road – goats, cows, pedestrians, at times single lane – madness, how can they call this a toll road. Came into Pretoria and found that I had set GPS to shortest route – it kept forcing me through the center of town so in the middle of the day I went right thru Pretoria, past the prison, into town square. Just a hell hole, cant believe it looks like Point area in Durban or Hillbrow in Jhb. Litter all over, hawkers, no tourist would ever go there.
Through Pta, down the Ben Schoeman onto the N3 to Durban. Massive storm blowing behind me just past Van Reenens. Huge thunderstorms, but I was ahead of them all the way. Stayed dry.
Into Durban after 3000ks in 2 days, went dancing. Iron Butt.
Summary of the trip:
• Awesome, will do again soon, but make sure I head to Angola way. Come home via Caprivi.
• The 1200 BMW Adventure to me was the best choice for this trip, but she is heavy. Very heavy. You plan around the weight though, learn to stop on level ground, no downhills etc.
• Awesome riding position, comfortable and the big screen is a must. The protection afforded the rider is really great.
• The ABS does work, and it does work well on gravel, but I turn it off for the technical sections, when you want a wheel to stop, you want it to stop. You cannot stop on a steep uphill and have the brakes not work. You will simply slide back until you fall.
• Adjusting the suspension on the move is also a feature that was used a lot. You continually change the setting on such long trips, helps your butt.
• BMW system 6 helmet is good, but my face got burnt all the time. Did help to ride with the dark visor down to reduce sun burn, would prefer a helmet with a peak.
• BMW Rallye Suit 2 was great, even in the heat. Use a camelbak all the time, helps with concentration.
• Don’t take so much clothing, you don’t need it.
• Under the riding suit I found the Falke underwear shorts were awesome. No seams to irritate you and they stay dry. Nearly 10 000ks, no monkey butt, no itching at all. Wash at night, they dry in a few hours.
• Socks – best were MX Fox type long socks – wool, wash at night, dry real quick.
• Tools and spares – took air compressor and 2 puncture kits, also took a spare tube that could fit both front and back tire in case of massive side wall tear – sort of a limp home type deal, tire levers as well.
• Don’t put your leg down on the dirt when you have panniers. ( I would re think hard panniers, may go soft panniers next time.)
• Tank bag is great – you stop at Wimpy, just unhook it and take it with you, all your valuables safe.
• Spare key must be hidden on the bike, you lose your key, you will not start your BMW.
• Throttle locker – without it I would not have made the ride as safely as I did. Takes away all the tiredness you get in your right hand from holding on.
• 2 sets of gloves is cool – change them often, changes your grip position slightly
• That’s it, Ride safe.
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