It’s a trippy thing wrapping up a bike trip like this. Not that we were returning from an Arctic expedition or chartering a new path through the Amazon (although that sounds fun) but there had been a fair few unforeseen events, good and bad, delightful and disastrous. A lifetime ago at Ruacana we would never have predicted where we were now; freezing cold in the middle of the night about to drive down a road that might not exist.
I guess that’s the upside of loose planning – there’s an adventure around every corner. Nasty surprises are an inherent part of mad adventure; if they weren’t everyone would do them. Risk-averse folks prefer to zero the chances of a bad outcome, so they plan the bejezuz out of their trips. That works for them, cool. Personally, I find that a bit too predictable, which for me quickly becomes boring. Other folks like to deliberately put themselves in situations of near complete chaos, just to see if anyone dies. It’s exciting and hilarious to be around and wonderfully free…. and sometimes you end up missing a trip cause your bike breaks down. There’s a downside whichever way you roll. I’m sure many reading this have a firm preference, and that diversity is awesome. As long as no one tries to convince others of the superiority of a specific path, we’re all set for happy days. Relative to my special band of travel goons, I’m probably a little on the risk averse side. This trip definitely gave me a nudge to loosen up a bit and wing it. And wing it we did. Straight on into the Namibian night.
You’ll recall that the Panda had added some garments to his usual riding attire (and had mysteriously acquired a rifle)
The sleeping-bag-ensconced Midget was looking a touch more rotund than usual
Back on the campaign trail we came to a sign, a blessed sign, a sign like no other, a sign like a Noah finding 2000 umbrellas and some wood on his doorstep. The sign said, “go this way and you shall get to where you want to go – 230kms”. In choreographed cliché, we all raised a triumphant fist in the air and gave a big shout out to our guardian deities.
By this stage we were flying in pretty tight formation. Max’s headlights were bouncing off his origami-ed fairing so he was blinded by an orange sun right in front of his nose. I had my Darth Vader visor on so had a choice of either frostbite from an open visor or the visibility of a rectal probe. Buttercup has a bic lighter for a headlight and the Midget was near the end of his reserves by this point. Our genius plan was to pool resources; my headlight, Max’s eyes, and both of our taillights. I drove 30cm off the Panda’s back wheel (foot resting casually on his pannier), providing the light for Max (his was off). With my foot on his bag I could drive by feel so slipped into a meditative trance with my eyes closed, a technique I can highly recommend to restore inner balance. The Midge then had 2 taillights to target lock onto. The (blindingly obvious) downside to this arrangement was that if anything happened, it was going to happen to all of us, Lock, Stock, and 3 Shpangled Bikes. We were too cold, tired and stupid to think of a better solution, which would have been for Max and I to swap bikes or helmets, but then you wouldn’t have a story about 3 idiots to ridicule at your pleasure.
To be honest, this was the dumbest and most dangerous thing we did on the whole trip. If the infamous Donkey of Death had been chilling on the road it would have been catastrophic, but it wasn’t, and we were fine, and we’ll only do it once more. Max put in a champion effort. He was clearly in a fair bit of pain but he charged on at the front and took us with him – I’m very grateful to him for that.
And then, all of a sudden, without the remotest bit of fanfare, we were there. Back in Opuwo, whooping along the main road, high fives over speed humps, and back to the lodge to demand they reopen the bar and serve us champagne.
“Do you know who I am?” demanded the Camel
“No” said the sleepy security guard who’d been woken at 12:30am by 3 noisy bikes
“I need booze man, it’s my birthday” he squealed in half-panic.
“You’re in room 13.”
“But I’m Jeff Vader…” he pleaded to the back of the guard who was returning to slumber. “Death by tray” he thought...
Defeated and empty handed, we went to find Tom, who was also asleep but infinitely more receptive. We tried to replay the nutty events of the day’s travel and the entire trip in garbled half sentences, very excited but also acutely aware of how bleak he must be feeling. Bitter sweet indeed.
And then we went to sleep, woke up, packed vehicles, and settled in for a 3 day drive back home, with the Panda laid out like a vulnerable dolphin.