Panne
Race Dog
Ok, here goes:
Iâ??m not the worldâ??s greatest DIY guy unless DIYâ??s the acronym for Destroy It Yourself. The oil seals on my 950â??s forks had to be replaced and I decided to tackle this myself. With some advice from Lito and a tool acquired from Runner, it actually went swimmingly in the end.
This is what you would need to do:
Step 1
You will need a bench vice to clamp the fork. I do not have one, thus I used my old triple clamp like so:
Step 2
Fork inserted and pinch bolts tightened. Ready to loosen fork cap.
Step 3
Now, you will need the tool pictured below. Got mine from Runner. You can also fashion a similar tool but please DO NOT use a punch and hammer to loosen the fork cap.
Step 4
Unscrew the fork cap.
Step 5
Compress the front spring and insert a thin 22mm open-end spanner to hold the damper rod in position. Remove the fork cap using a 24mm spanner as depicted.
Step 6
Remove the preload spacer and then the fork spring
Step 7
Remove the adjustment tube.
Step 8
Turn the fork upside down over a suitable container to allow old oil to drain. You can also move the damper rod up and down a few times which will help it drain faster. I left mine overnight to ensure it drained properly.
Step 9
Using a 19mm socket, remove the compression piston. If it turns with the fork cartridge, bend the damper rod a bit to the side to prevent this. Patience is the keyword here, it took me a while and a few curses to remove it.
Second instalment to follow. :ricky:
Iâ??m not the worldâ??s greatest DIY guy unless DIYâ??s the acronym for Destroy It Yourself. The oil seals on my 950â??s forks had to be replaced and I decided to tackle this myself. With some advice from Lito and a tool acquired from Runner, it actually went swimmingly in the end.
This is what you would need to do:
Step 1
You will need a bench vice to clamp the fork. I do not have one, thus I used my old triple clamp like so:
![009.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/53f/53f1b507062ff0b56254039af4a074dc.jpg)
Step 2
Fork inserted and pinch bolts tightened. Ready to loosen fork cap.
![010.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/111/111733f75686745c0b1489c8ecf36adc.jpg)
Step 3
Now, you will need the tool pictured below. Got mine from Runner. You can also fashion a similar tool but please DO NOT use a punch and hammer to loosen the fork cap.
![011.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/ebd/ebd45db4d23b502cfce121954c217278.jpg)
Step 4
Unscrew the fork cap.
![012.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/50f/50fd946e4c18ad7e18e7facb41d517d1.jpg)
Step 5
Compress the front spring and insert a thin 22mm open-end spanner to hold the damper rod in position. Remove the fork cap using a 24mm spanner as depicted.
![013.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/5da/5da060ae9f77de233e23ad82670a7930.jpg)
Step 6
Remove the preload spacer and then the fork spring
![014.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/9b6/9b6c44557c2db6d8906dc7493bb307d3.jpg)
Step 7
Remove the adjustment tube.
![016.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/2d5/2d50f3ed6705da550e850a1bc8166378.jpg)
Step 8
Turn the fork upside down over a suitable container to allow old oil to drain. You can also move the damper rod up and down a few times which will help it drain faster. I left mine overnight to ensure it drained properly.
![017.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/a94/a94f91d3de0ea629d280a0db65adf417.jpg)
Step 9
Using a 19mm socket, remove the compression piston. If it turns with the fork cartridge, bend the damper rod a bit to the side to prevent this. Patience is the keyword here, it took me a while and a few curses to remove it.
![018.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/7a7/7a71c37ffe00c182f9a4ea3a0faeb857.jpg)
Second instalment to follow. :ricky: