SA Trip by Leo & drinking mates with a riding problem

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Leo

Grey Hound
WD Supporter
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
5,166
Reaction score
352
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
Bike
BMW R1200GS HP2
Most SA citizens will agree that our government is doing a lot of things wrong, but have to agree that the committee that decides on the annual public holidays and on which dates& days they should fall have certainly got their act together. I am sure I’m not the only one who took 3 days leave to score 11 days in total – wonderful if you’re working for a boss, but not so great when you own your own business. Well my boss has been giving me serious trouble for taking my annual leave in “advance” for our annual long trip somewhere abroad, so after last year’ strip to Angola he assured me – no more leave in advance, you take them as you earn them every month, or accumulate them and then take long leave. So needless to say our plans of a long trip to some exotic place up in Africa flew out the door for 2011. However the 11 days one could have was sufficient to do a local trip and hence the planning started. After we had determined who was going and who was staying, we set about drawing up the pack list of who was to carry what, what should go along, etc and soon all fell into place like a well-oiled gearbox.

The Drinking Mates with a Riding Problem. FLTR Antonie, Excalibur, Jean, Werner, Leo, Basil en Shaun
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We left Gauteng on Friday morning, 22 Aril with our destination for the day the Red Sands Lodge just west of Kuruman. As will all other trips the first day everybody is eager, so progress was excellent and by mid-afternoon we had replenished our meat supply, coke and ice, etc in Kuruman and headed for Red Sands. Some cloud cover towards the west prompted me to suggest we sleep under the massive thatched structure they have on the premises and we set about talking nonsense and doing the braai thing. Not long after we had eaten the drops started falling and it soon turned into a massive downpour. We sat snugly and dry in our tents watching the rest of the packed campsite running about, hitting in tent pens, closing zips and all those things one generally neglect when camping in fine weather.

Camping in the best spot in Red Sands when it rains
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Eat here next time you pass Sannieshof – best Tramezinni’s in NW Province
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Saturday morning we rose to a cloudy day, but nothing could dampen our spirits so we packed and set our sails for the Verneukpan. Just outside Kathu I had an altercation with a damn Guinea fowl which left me covered in blood, guts and shit.

Not nice on day 2 of an 11 day trip
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Not exactly what one would want on the second day of an eleven day biking trip where you had to wear the same clothes every day? I had to replace a lens or two and we altered our route via Upington so I could visit the BMW dealer and fix the broken parts. Lots of Vaseline, mildly applied saw us heading for Keimoes where I had ordered 3 X “Flip se Ribs”, a deboned lamb rib, marinated and vacuum sealed to perfection by the Karoo Vleis mark. These we were going to braai on the Verneukpan, standing them upright as it is the best way to braai a lamb rib.

Keimoes famous watermill
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If you’ve never been to the Verneukpan, put it on your bucket list. Wide open spaces where one could let loose with all the horsepower a HP2 could muster.  I had pre-paid the camping so there was no need to report at reception and we headed north to where the sign indicated – campsite.

Nothern Cape Splendour
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Verneukpan
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Enroute we ran into him and settled the bill for all the extra amenities – firewood, coke & ice.  The idea was to sleep somewhere in the middle of the pan, but the area around the brass bell was already occupied with two families with kids, so we opted to stay away from there. As we were debating where to sleep, a mild breeze started to blow, and as I was in no mood to run after the coals with the grid in my hand we opted to braai in the boma which was made of Muisbos with a tin roof on the one side.

Groupie on Verneukpan
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Isn’t this a beaut
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Trouble
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At least the bikes were dry
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Doing the rib thing
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No sooner had we started the fire when a threatening storm moved in. Needless to say, the heavens opened up and the water came down, promising us a feast the next day to get out. The two families who camped near the bell, soon pulled in, Venter trailer in tow with the wheels clogging from the mud, refusing to turn and the 4X2 pickup hardly able to move forward. Later that evening the rain subsided, but walking around was a mess – you became taller with every step as the turf mud stuck to your boots like boerewors to a braai rooster. We all slept under the roof, packed in like sardines while the two families slept upright in the bakkies.  The caravan’s was occupied by some well-known actress and her family. At least we had a feast with the ribs and our wheel hubs were well and truly loosed so the B&C flowed like rain and our jests were adjusted to handle the extra volume. 

Famous people
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How to sleep on the Verneukpan after it rained
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………and how not too

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Sunday morning we got started while Basil and Antonie complained about how bad they had slept. Antonie slept in his riding gear on 3 chairs while Basil slept on a 6 foot folding table under my poncho. Details are a bit vague as to why they opted to do this. Yes space was at a premium, but I’m sure we could have fitted them in somewhere.
I suggested to the guys on the 1200’s to remove their front mudguards while we were still stationery, but as it turned out one had to remove the front wheel to do that, so that was not an option.  We would have to get our hand dirty to get the mud out from under the front mudguard.

Verneukpan shuffle
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Got my pic with the clock
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We set off at 7 am, Shaun and I heading for the brass bell as we both dearly wanted a photo, while the rest headed out towards the edge of the pan, ready to start the Verneukpan Shuffle. Within 10 meters the mud claimed its first victim. This was the first of many. We had to cover the 5 km back to the road and another 3 km’s to get to the edge – no need to cover the extra 10 km’s to the reception office as we had already settled our bill. Within walking distance from the bell Shaun’s 1150 dug into some serious mud which kept us busy for quite a while pulling the pig out of the slippery stuff. Eventually we got it out and Shaun set about removing all the mud from all the gaps and holes where it had penetrated while I commuted between the two groups to check on the progress. The HP was in its element although I had a few moments when the rear overtook the front, but I always managed to remain upright.
By 11 am the smokers were lighting a cigarette and we digested the events of the past 4 hours.  We were literally covered in mud but it was hilarious none the less. From here we headed west as our goal for the day was to ride the longest straight section of dirt road in SA (± 58km’s) on the R358 between Klipkrans and Heuningnes. Fuel was going to be a challenge so we had filled all the bikes to the brim in Kenhardt and we set about achieving our goal. First the HP, then Jean’s 800 and lastly Excalibur’s R1200GS had to be replenished from the 4 petrol bunkers and eventually we got to the point where all the bikes were so low on fuel we had to take things easy.

Excalibur relaxing by the roadside
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They don’t come much straighter than this
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Kalkrand Splendour
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…with its own version of Table Mountain
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I was riding a magnificent section of dirt road (on my bucket list) on one of the most powerful DS bikes and had to paddle along at a measly 80km/h.  Hell it was frustrating. Eventually the 800 ran dry and we could not syphon any more fuel from the other bikes so we had to tow Jean into Kliprand. Here we filled the bikes till the pump ran dry with Jean and Shaun each getting 10litres only. We had no option but to head for Bitterfontein as this was on the N7 and was sure to have fuel. With a full tank and only 70 km’s to cover to Bitterfontein I could put the HP through it passes – man heaven on earth. After filling all the bikes to the brim we headed for Strandfontein. 
In retrospect we should have turned north to Pofadder (± 80 km detour), refuelled and then tackled the longest section, but hey, not all plans can be without fault.
Strandfontein campsite was packed with people and we soon settled down on something chilly as well as biltong - the !@#$%^ rain was eminent and we were in no mood to braai in the rain yet again. Friendly fellow holiday goers gave us coke and ice as the local shop was already closed so we feasted on what we had.

Camping in Strandfontein
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After yet another downpour through the night and the next morning the sky suddenly opened up and we prepared breakfast and packed hoping the rain has finally subsided.
 
A quick stop at the local watering hole in Doringbay put us on the toll gravel section next to the railway line and soon we pulley into Lambertsbay to see all the sights and sounds of the quaint little west coast town.  I met up with my friend Bottervet and family and after introducing him to all my mates we sat down and talked about how great our holiday had been thus far. Bottervet, if you are reading this, it’s time to get that Tenere so you can join us.

Bottervet and Family posing with Leo & Excalibur
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Anyhow, while all this was happening the Muisbosskerm restaurant called me to confirm that our booking for lunch was confirmed. We had booked accommodation in Elandsbay, but at least we were flexible.  One never passes the opportunity to eat at Muisbosskerms – the finest open air restaurant in the world. 

Muisbosskerm
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A Double B&C in a wine glass was so good not even the moths could resist
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Needless to say after several bottles of the finest white wine, some B&C we sneaked in along with the most awesome seafood meal one could ever have, the booking in Elandsbay was cancelled and we pulled into the Muisbosskerm campsite, just across the dune from the restaurant. This was a good move as it was late afternoon, we had to leave the restaurant as they were preparing for the evening customers to arrive and we were in no condition to ride the distance to Elandsbay.
Do yourself a favour and go and stay here at Muisbosskerm campsite. It is the cleanest and neatest campsite I have EVER stayed in – the ablutions are absolutely amazing. At R50 a pop Ian who is the proprietor of this fine establishment will take care of your every need. He dropped off half a bakkie load of firewood  at an additional R80 (I think), sorry details are vague and we sat around the fire, majoring in talking kark and enjoyed the company and camaraderie of mates who had seen, experienced and talked about the most amazing places and events. Antonie thanks for the high jump entertainment.

The neatest & cleanest camp site I have ever stayed
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This machine was grinding the Sishen Saldanha track back into shape – done 3 times per year
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The next day saw us riding into Elandsbay with the rain pouring down, so we promptly decided to wait the storm out in the local hotel. After a hearty meal and a few sharpies we headed further south over Dwarskersbos, Laaiplek and Vellerif till we eventually settled down at Paternoster hotel. The Voorstrand restaurant later confirmed our reservation and we wined and dined on yet another sumptuous meal.

Paternoster – a real gem of theWestCcoast
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…with the famous panty bar
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Tietiesbaai was around the corner and several open campsites ensured us a sweet spot on the edge of the ocean. What an awesome experience to pitch your tent on the beach with the watermark a few metres away.  That night as we savoured the last of our braai the rain clouds moved in yet again and we bailed for our tents as the rain came down and the wind started gushing. This continued throughout the night and to say we had an unpleasant night would be putting it mildly. Next day with broken tent poles and wet gear we looked like wet chickens as we emerged from our tents. Well nothing a nice cuppa coffee and some rusks couldn’t fix along with a beautiful sunny day. We left Tietiesbaai and started our journey inland with the signs of the previous night’s downpour evident all along our route.

Tietiesbaai
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…braaiing as the rain started
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The storm had no mercy – check the time
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Our journey took us over Aurora to Redelinghuys. If it hadn’t rained the night before this road through the”Sandveld” of Western Cape could have been very interesting. A guy at the Redelinghuys bottle store described the Paleisheuwels road to Clainwilliam to us which left us in no doubt as to which road to follow. What a scenic stretch of road. There was depressing chill in the air and as we neared the mountains we could see evidence of a slight snowfall which explained the cold. After refuelling in Clainwilliam we headed for the Sederberg Mountains.  The Capetonians are truly blessed to have so many beautiful spots right on their doorstep. 

Paleisheuwels road
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Uitkyk Pass – Sederberge
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Assisting a fellow traveller
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In die Bos – Ceres
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….too lazy to braai
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Antonie Minnaar  found his routes on the corner of Minnaar and Olaf Berg Street
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The reason for the chill
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By 4pm with max 2 hours of daylight left we reached the turnoff to the Katbakkies pass.  Reaching Sutherland would require some serious riding and I wanted the guys to experience the Tankwa Karoo in all its glory, so I suggested we stay at “In die Bos” in Ceres. Hell the manager on duty was typically state employee, but after we insisted to speak to his manager we and more importantly our bikes were allowed into this place. We were allowed to pitch one tent per stand, we promptly took 2 stands as there was no way we could fit 7 guys into 1 tent. 
At the site we each pitched out own tent and no word was ever spoken about us unruly bikers braking all the rules. As the clouds were threatening we called on the local Debonair to deliver and we ate pizzas and waited for the rain to start but this never happened so we made a fire and talked nonsense till we were all too intoxicated to make sense and went to bed.

View from Katbakkies pass
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Tankwa Karoo
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From the top of the Ou Berg Pass
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Excalibur taking notes
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Sutherland recovery vehicle
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From Ceres we headed back into the “Koue Bokkeveld” – a place that was well and truly living up to its name.  Once over the Katbakkies pass we headed for the Tankwa Karoo on gravel roads that can only be described as dirt highways. This area must have seen heavy rains as the road had several nasty wash aways as we got closer to the Ouberg Pass. As I stood at the top of the Ouberg Pass I could only see one bike was pursuing – the rest all shining in their absence. Basil pulled in only to confirm that Antonie had hit one of those wash away sections with such velocity that the bottom shock mounting had snapped – the round section (ear) of the mounting had completely broken off.

Antonie vs BMW on Call
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The cause
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We continued towards Sutherland stopping at every farm to look for a farmer who was willing to ride back and collect Antonie and his bike and take them to Sutherland.  Needless to say, most farmers were somewhere at the coast or out farming as we rode from farmstead to farmstead with not a soul to be found. Eventually I pulled into the farm of Kobus and Anneline Theron who was willing to let me call George at the local garage in Sutherland who could do the recovery. After this was arranged we headed to Sutherland and waited for Antonie to arrive. By 2pm George had not send his recovery yet – I had called him at 11am, but anyhow, I guess time passes slowly in the bustling metropolis of Sutherland. By 2:30 Antonie and the rest of the gang pulled into Sutherland – amazing what one can do with a few tie downs and some straps. The GSA was low slung like a Harley, but it was going.

The White House in Sutherland – Adriaan will take good care of you
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Sutherland is not for sissies
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With no way of fixing the break except by fitting a new swing arm, BMW on call was put to the test. Antonie and his bike were collected by 6pm and we said farewell to our companion with a touch of sadness in our moods. The White House in Sutherland was apparently run by a biker for bikers and I was astonished to find Adriaan, an old riding companion now the proprietor of this establishment. He had been running the place for the past 2 – 3 years. We felt as welcome as could be and braaied, drank and then drank some more while the chill was slowly building up. It was -5 the morning so we knew we were in for a hop, skip and a jump.
Every bed was fitted with an electric blanket so we slept like babies, sorry I’m lying, a baby can’t snore like that. Next morning our bikes was in no mood to start and we had to jump start a few who had bad batteries before we were ready to go. As the HP was not fitted with heated grips, I had to settle for some plastic bags over my gloves as it was well and truly cold.
Our destination for the day was Baviaans. We had lost a day due to the broken shock so we had to forfeit our visit to “Die Hel” but we would ride that some other day. Most of us had been there anyhow, so it was not like we were losing out on a lot. From Sutherland we headed for Merweville past the Rammelkop pass. This was another highlight of the trip. Merweville had a lot more than petrol to offer – this place will definitely see me again. Beautiful, friendly folk who come to talk to you and all the splendour a small little Karoo dorp has to offer.  Prins Albert was a quick stop for lunch before we headed east on a scenic gravel road that brought us straight into Willowmore.

Rammelkop pass
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Interesting pedestrian
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Church in Merweville
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Interesting bikes in Prins Albert
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Our groceries were replenished and we headed for the Baviaans where The Doringkloof Bush camp is a certain Must Stay spot. Adele supplied the wood and ice and we settled down to yet another great evening of braaiing and talking non-sense.  Life was great. Shaun has left us in Prins Albert as he wanted to visit his dad in Hofmeyer, so our group was depleted to 5 souls.
Baviaans had plenty to offer – I was carrying the helmet cam and rode in front while being treated to Kudus crossing my past, along with Bosbok, duiker, Rooi Ribbok and several smaller antelope. This was my fourth time riding the Baviaans, but the first time I actually saw any form of wildlife.

Camping in Baviaans
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Baviaans, need I say more?
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Groot Rivier Poort
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In Patensie we refuelled before tackling the notorious Groot Rivier poort to Steytlerville. I heard this was a tricky section and I was not disappointed. We were passed by several other guys led by a man on a KTM, but they rode past us with not much more than a wave – I guess they were late for church or something. In Steytlerville we pulled into the local hotel where we were met with the finest specimen of the female species I have ever seen. Imagine something small light and nimble, probably not an ounce over 45 kg’s, fitted with 2 X 44 litre long range fuel tanks for extra creature comfort and durability.  Sorry guys no pics – girls like that have the personality to match.  Pardon to the ladies for being so graphic.

Chasing the setting sun on the way to Colesberg
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Horse & Mill in Colesberg
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Stop & go on the way to Bloem. Tintin is also in the pic somewhere
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Our journey was heading for the end, so after waiting a few hours for Basil who had turned back to fetch his camera which he had left on a rock as we crossed the Groot Rivier, we set our targets on Colesberg.  Colesberg was choc a block with travellers so after a few sharpies at the Horse and Mill we eventually found a place to stay. Our last day was a boring N1 made even worse by several stop and goes between Colesberg and Bloem.
Antonie, sorry about the trouble, next year we will carry something to fix as this cannot happen three years in a row. To the rest of the gang, thanks for all the hours of laughter, the camaraderie and the pleasant mood, no fuzz fashion in which you tackle everything. Thanks, till the ne
 
Jirre julle manne doen darem maar lekker trips !!!

Lekker Leo en maats, great stuff soos gewoonlik!!

:thumleft: :thumleft:

 
Dis nou 'n Kaapse draai om die land!!

Baie nice en lekker gelees

:thumleft:
 
what a lekker travel story leo and mates...reads well, great pics...what an adventure! thank you so much!
 
What is it with Sutherland and bikes breaking down???
Last year whe did a trip and Milkman's DRZ broke down in Sutherland. https://wilddog.net.za/forum/index.php?topic=59559.0


Very nice RR and nice pics :thumleft:, cant beleive verneukpan can get sooo wet.
 
great report... thanks for sharing..
what a super way to spend a couple of "long Weekends"
 
Awesome stuff Leo and Co  :thumleft:

SA is so diverse and interesting you do not have to leave its borders to have an amazing travel experience.

Thanks for sharing  :biggrin:
 
Bliksem Leon! another great trip you okes had. If I had known you would be in our bnack yard I would have met up for a dop or 10.
 
bmad said:
Awesome stuff Leo and Co  :thumleft:

SA is so diverse and interesting you do not have to leave its borders to have an amazing travel experience.

Thanks for sharing  :biggrin:

So true - we have so many places within SA on our to do list

Nice one Leo - we also have that riding problem
 
Nice one Leo

As usual your trip report is epic.

What is the story with the rear shock that broke like that, seem very strange.

And I must add that you guys helped the poor stranded chick, who wanted to pull laps there??????????????? :ricky:
 
Ai lekker manne!! :thumleft:
Ama ek dink hulle slyp alle ongelyk plekke uit.
Daai trein is een moerse grinder.
 
Lyk na 'n moerse lekker trip daai!Thanks for sharing :thumleft:
 
I had the opportunity and fine privelage to do this trip with Leo and the Lads, and enjoyed imensely - never a dull moment.
We did roads I've never been on before and if there was a choice between tar and dirt, dirt mostly won, even when distances for the day were long - fantastic
A trip that will bring back many a fine memory in years to come...
Thanks Guys
 
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