Scuba Steve Gets Married- The 6 Province Tour.

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rrichardson86

Race Dog
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
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Bike
BMW R80GS
In January my older brother Steve (also known as Scuba Steve) decided to get married in the Western Cape. It had been a while since my last big trip on the old girl so I decided to take some leave from work and do a little trip around South Africa on the way to this awesome occasion.

The Bike: 1982 BMW R80 G/S

Distance Covered: +- 4500km (distances may vary due to a lack of a working tripmeter)

Amount of fuel used: F&% knows.

Amount of oil used: More than the amount of petrol used.

Awesomeness Level: EPIC!

The route:

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The bike:
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The rider:

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I'll let the pictures speak mainly for themselves.

Day 1: Melville to Wepener- Distance 465km

This was a relatively boring day riding the black snake down to Wepener. Why Wepener you ask? Well there's an amazing guest house there called the Lord Frasers which transports one back to the days of yesterday. It is owned by "someone"who I met many years who runs prime beef into Lesotho. This place therefore has amazing steak, their fillet you can pretty much cut with a spoon. Any way the owners were away this time which meant that the service was a bit disappointing but all in all a good stop over if you're in the evening. I met up with a fellow Wilddog named Ryno and his lovely missus and a great many beers and bottles of wine were had. A good start to the trip!

All packed and ready to roll:

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A few pics from the road:

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A Free State storm which resulted in me needing my bright yellow BMW Minion rain suit

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Lord Fraser Guest House

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A few beers after a long day on the stoep

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Day Two: Wepener to Cathcart- 350km

There is not much to write about this leg. Afternoon waking up a little bit tender and saying cheers to Ryno I headed for home Wanting to get there and see the folks I just took the N6 and gunned it. The old girl performed well and got me there in one peace!.

Days in Cathcart and surrounds.

A lot of people have a look of disbelief when I say I love going back to Cathcart. This is usually after they go: "Where the f%$# is that?!" This small farming town and the surrounds has some of the best riding I've come across in South Africa (and Ive done a fair amount). The terrain varies from the highlands around the Hogsback area to lowveld areas of the Kei River valley. The roads are not maintained very well, which to some is a problem, but to me simply adds to the riding pleasure. Having ridden almost every road in the district in the last 12 years or so, I can honestly say that each ride is enjoyable and provides a new experience. If you are looking for a completely different riding area, I suggest giving this area a go. There is accommodation in the town but  I would recommend staying in on one of the numerous guest farms in the area. You wont regret it.

Below is a day trip I did whilst I was there. This is my favorite route in the area as it gives you a massive amount of diverse terrain and the roads are a bit challenging. If you arent comfortable on the dirt I would suggest going with someone. The route takes you from Cathcart down the Nico Malan pass, through Seymour (a town which is dying to be restored to its former glory) up Mitchells Pass (do not ever be tricked by your GPS into going up or down this pass with anything but a 4x4 or DS you will be stuffed!) through Hogsback, down the Keikammahoek Pass through lush rainforests and then through to Stutterheim or King Williams Town via a few passes the names which now escape me.

Total distance: +-250 kms of heaven on earth.
Awesomeness Level: Total
Number of breakdowns: 1 due to charging issues
Number of friendly helpful locals found: Plenty!

The route

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The old hotel in Seymour hinting at a glorious past. Interestingly people used to travel from all the surrounds to this hotel as their breakfast and Sunday lunch was legendary. Now it is derelict, except for a few rats and nesting dinosaurs

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Signs of a once extremely wealthy and productive citrus region.

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They're being serious. Give yourself about an hour or so to do the route. It can be tricky especially if there has been rain:

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See! 1km of axle twisters, dongas and massive rocks followed this. At the end I met a little guy coming down in a Toyota Runx as his GPS had said this was the quickest way to Grahamstown. Let's just say I told him to turn around in no uncertain terms.

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Lunch break under a tree at a dam

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Hogsback mountain in the background- named for its resemblance to the mohawk on the back of a wild pig.

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My sandwich got buggered! Lots of places in Hogsback to grab a tasty morsel though.

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View out towards Fort Beaufort and Grahamstown. If you're in the area do yourself and favour and visit The Edge which has a spectacular view of the valley and looks down onto Mitchell's Pass.

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After traversing the commercial pine forests  you are greeted by lush indigenous rain forests and waterfalls. A welcome treat on a hot December's day. The water is drinkable and makes for a refreshing stop.

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Sandile Dam- a local water supply to the region.

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If you have a opportunity head to St Matthew's Mission. This old Catholic mission station was, I believe, one the schooling grounds for former President Nelson Mandela.

A few snaps from another trip to Seymour Dam with my parents. Very privileged to share my passion for motorbikes with my parents.

My folks- always happy to give some traveling advice  for riding in the area if you're there. Just ask for Dr Richardson.

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Messing around with my old man.

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Sharing a coke  and laugh with me mum. Firm advocate of keeping beers for a after ride treat! (call me a prude if you wish!)

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Seymour dam- The life line of the once productive Katberg/Ciskei citrus region. Millions are being spent though to restore this lucrative farming region.

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Stage 4: Cathcart to Calitzdorp- 698km

This was probably the second longest day of the trip distance wise. I generally try to keep my distances to the 550km max. This distance I ve found gives you a nice day ride and gives you time to stop and see things along the way, which forms the essence of touring in my mind. I have done the iron butt challenge (1200 kms in one day) and wouldnt recommend doing this. Its painful and dangerous.

Right after that side note back to the trip! Having spent a great few relaxing days with my folks in Cathcart, it was time to head down to the Western Cape for the Scuba Steve's wedding festivities. My Dad decided to join me on the 1150 whilst my Mom followed in the Hilux with things we needed for the wedding. Normally my Mom goes pillion as she loves touring but on this occasion we needed to bring down about 200 jam jars for the wedding.

This day's route was to take us from Cathcart down the Nico Malan Pass and through to Calitzdorp via Somerset East, Graaf Reniet, Willowmore. An alternative route and a much nicer route in my opinion is to go via Kirkwood, Steytlerville and Uniondale This takes you via the Langkloof and in December is much cooler. It also has less traffic.

This day was quite eventful as I ran out of petrol about 10 kms from Uniondale. We had realised after Willowmore on our the way to Oudtshoorn that we had miscalculated the distances. Fortunately my old man and mom had enough fuel and rode into the town to grab me some. On a side note if you do ride a BMW R80gs and run out of petrol detach the tank and turn it upside down. It should get you about an extra 500mls which will help a bit.

With that event over we carried on through to Calitzdorp. We stayed in a lovely self catering joint about 5kms outside Calitzdorp. The name escapes me now but there is a backpackers on the right hand side. I always use Safari Now when booking accomodation as it provides a useful guide and shows reviews of the places. Nothing worse than a long day of riding and arriving to a sh&% hole! Thats of course if you're not camping which is always best for an adventure.

I also made use of my BMW cooling jacket this day. If you're going to be doing any December trips through the Karoo area I recommend getting one.

Some photos from the day.

On the road

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My pops getting some shade from the heat

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No petrol- Uniondale
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The road is comfortable outside Uniondale

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Helmet hair selfie whilst waiting for petrol. Fortunately it wasnt too hot.

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A braai to end the day. Great accomodation.

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The desolation and colours of the Klein Karoo always intrigue me

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My Pops testing out his new Gorrilla Pod. These are great tripods for motorcycle touring.

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The Karoo in the morning

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Messing around (my dad's on the bog)

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Stage 5: Calitzdorp to Langebaan- 550kms

After a great nights rest in Calitzdorp it was time to head towards Langebaan. We decided to take the R62, which is in my opinion one of the best routes to go if you're in this area. Whilst the Garden Route does have its perks, I always find it a bit too busy during December and it is inevitably full of trucks. Another thing I find with the Garden Route is that it is almost always windy, with gusts coming off the ocean. On the R62 you are usually sheltered from this.  Some nice places to stop for a bit along route include Ronnie's Sex Shop (which to be perfectly honest is highly over-rated in my opinion but a necessary stop at least once), Barrydale which has some good places to eat and Montague. Just outside Montague there is an interesting fort that you can stop at if its not too hot.


On this day we decided to do a bit of a detour and ride Baine's Kloof which is a must if you're in the Wellington area. The pools there are amazing if they are not over-crowded. (Not advisable on a public holiday)

Any way a few pictures from the day.

Breakfast in Barrydale

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Baines Kloof

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Coke coloured pool in Baines Kloof

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The rentals

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Bels and I

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Me mum

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A braai to end the day as usual

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More to follow





 
Langebaan to Williston- 469km

After a few days down in Langebaan and one wedding later, it was time to start the trip back to The Big Smoke. I decided to head through the Karoo as it was a section of SA I havent actually done much travel in. I had read somewhere about a place called The Williston Mall in the middle of nowhere and having no real plans decided to head there.

Bels had developed a charging problem which made for some interesting riding. It turned out later that this was a result of an amazing bit of German engineering which means that if your charging bulb doesnt come on your entire charging system doesnt work. She had also developed an amazing oil leak which meant that I was putting in almost as much oil as I was petrol! But these bikes are indestructible so its just a case of carrying on and living with the niggles until you sort them out. My route for the day took me to Clanwilliam where I decided to try get a new battery, as I thought it might be that After cruising around for a bit and chatting to some locals it appeared I was going to be successful in this department. Fortunately this bike is easy to push start!

I headed out out of Clanwilliam and decided to take the R364 as opposed to heading up to Vanrhysdorp. The reason for this being that I saw the name Pakhuispas on the map and anything that has the word "pas" in it must be explored! I was not disappointed! The Pakhuis Pass takes you up into the surrounding mountains and you wind your way through some amazing black rock formations. At the top you reach the turnoff to Wupertaal and then its gravel (something the road map did not mention!) Coming down the other side you are treated to an amazing view of the Karoo landscape. The road continues for about 150kms of good gravel but there's NO ONE around (good idea to let someone you know you're going through this route) and no cell signal. I loved the desolation and isolation of the road and stopped a few times to just take it all in. Theres another nice little pass you go through called Botterkloof Pass.  It was about 40 degrees on the day and I was very thankful for the cooling vest I had bought as a Christmas present to myself. Get yourself one if you're doing any serious long distance travelling in December.

The road then meets up with the R27 and it was a case of following the black mamba to Williston.

The Williston Mall is one place that I would recommend to anyone. It has to be one of the most unique guesthouses in the country with amazing attention to detail. I forget the names of the owners but they are an epic couple who decided to pack it all in and move from PE to this one horse town. Both of them are artists and they have spent years combing the local veld collecting interesting artefacts. The food at the place is also very homely and I had an awesome dinner of local boerewors and chops. The night carried on for quite sometime and I got to meet quite a few of the locals who were very welcoming.

Pakhuis Pas looking back towards Clanwilliam

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Lookout into the Karoo Pashuis Pas- it was gravel here on

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My favorite photo of the trip. I love this bike.

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Coming down Pakhuis- Didnt see anyone for 150km but saw a lizard and loads of sheep

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Botterkloof Pass- A nice break from straight roads

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A moment to sit and take in the surrounds and grab some water- Make sure you have plenty!

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Back onto the black mamba- I somehow managed to lose an indicator light somewhere in the Karoo-if found please return it :D

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The Ark- Williston Mall- Williston

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A old Italian hulp my trap found in the local surrounds

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The Town Swimming Pool

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One of the local inhabitants- this guy could knock them back like no one's business

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Final Stages Williston to Kimberley to Johannesburg- 1010 kms

After saying cheers to the whole population of Williston (approximately three people) it was time to head off on the last leg of the journey which would take me to Kimberley for the night and then on to Johannesburg. In hindsight I think there were probably more interesting spots to go to and I could have got a little more sight seeing done in Kimberley if I had got going earlier but ce la vie. I suppose when you get to the end of an epic trip like this its important not to let the thought of going back to work or reality get you down but rather to keep living the dream until you ride that bike into your garage and hit the kill switch. I think I was certainly guilty of just wanting to get home and therefore this section wasn't particularly enjoyable. Any way I headed off to Kimberley and again I was very thankful to the cooling vest I had bought myself as a Christmas present as it was hitting temperatures of 40 degrees.

On a side note: My advice for travelling in Northern Cape in summer, get going early in the morning, dont overdo it on the drinks the night before (cotton mouth in 40 degree heat is a bitch), find a lekker spot to chill out for an hour or so in the shade around lunchtime and hit it again around 2.30 when its starting to cool down. Ideally if you can find a reservoir, wet all of your kit then you'll be golden for about 15 mins until it dries from the wind! Another little trick I found really helps is to wrap your camel pak sack (the plastic thing) in a few layers of tin foil and add some ice, it keeps your water cooler for much longer. Some tips, take it or leave it :D

The road from Williston to Kimberley was pretty much riding the black mamba the whole way so not too much to write home about. Likewise the N6 from Kimberley to Johannesburg made me want to tear my eyes out from boredom at stages. I wouldnt advise doin this route in December traffic, its busy, there are lots of trucks and idiots just gunning it home. I would suggest looking for some alternative side roads that will take you into the surrounding areas.

In Kimberley I stayed at a guest house called the Jungnickel. I wasn't entirely happy with the accomodation, it was pretty pricer and there was a shit smell litterally emanating from the toilet due to a blaockage. Unfortunately they were booked up so I just had to deal with it. Not great at R650 per night. I've actually decided that when doing these types of trips that I'll stick to backpackers as they provide you with far more entertainment and you meet more people which adds to the experience of travelling solo.

Anyway that brings this trip report to an end, I hope you found the info helpful and the content entertaining.

Safe riding and get out there and seek the horizon!

Over and out

HS

Some of the last photos of the trip

I somehow managed to lose the cap for the inspection hole on my gearbox (as below). Fearing that dust and sand and half the Northern Cape vegetation was going to get in there and bugger it up I decided it was time to go MacGyver! I found a piece of tyre rubber on the road (which is plentiful on the highway due to blowouts from trucks) and carved a make shift plug to fit the hole more or less. THis was held in place by a spot of superglue and then sealed off completely with a spare wax ear plug. Looks gross but it works!

The inspection hole sans cap

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My MacGyver make shift plug

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Jungnickel Accomodation- nice but a bit overpriced and a bit of a let down

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Salt pans

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Final shot of the trip

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Thanks for reading!
 
:sip: Lyk na n lekker trippie op n legend fiets so op my stoep(Fort Beaufort) verby
Ek ry saam... :thumleft:
 
Hell man this brings back some cool memories. Hope youre doing great! We must go for a beer sometime again! Awesome bike!
 
RaynoBert said:
Hell man this brings back some cool memories. Hope youre doing great! We must go for a beer sometime again! Awesome bike!

Rayno! Good to hear from you bud! We must definitely organise a little ride soon!
 
This is a lekker report, the info is very useful, because I'm planning to take the wife to certain areas on this route :thumleft:
 
Thks for RR.Beautiful part of the world.Going to Hogsback 1st week Oct.Will do Mitchells pass/Katberg pass etc.I will be in a Jeep wrangler with my wife.

regards
 
Horizon Seeker said:
RaynoBert said:
Hell man this brings back some cool memories. Hope youre doing great! We must go for a beer sometime again! Awesome bike!

Rayno! Good to hear from you bud! We must definitely organise a little ride soon!

Absolutely!! Ill pm my nr
 
awesome report great pic,s thank u for sharing
 
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