Snakes in the sand, snakes on the road. CABC 2009

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Dustdevil

Race Dog
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
1,781
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Location
Middelburg
Bike
BMW R80GS
I lift my leg from the footpeg as the yellow line laying one and a half meters across the middle of the gravel road suddenly became alive and grew a head on one side. The Cape cobra is known to not back of from a fight and is the most deadly snake in the Cape area, killing more people than any other.
The snakes head is rearing up in the attack position as I drove past in front of it missing it with centimetres, The only thing between me and certain death is the 100km an hour speed I am carrying and the relatively large target the motorcycle imposes making it hard for the snake to find the exact position of my leg. This does not stop it from trying though as it strikes the moment I was lined up with the front of its hooded head.
We were still more than 100km away from Ceres somewhere on the desolate R355 from Calvinia.

The weekend is running to a close with the sun casting long shadows as the two of us is gliding over the harsh Karoo landscape riding side by side. At that moment there is a certain sense of camaraderie felt that does not often come into ones life and normally always accompany some hardship and disaster.
Not that the weekend past have been a disaster, in fact the more disaster one can found on the way the more adventurous the journey turns out to be. We ran out of water, got lost, dropped our bikes numerous times in tough terrain, ran out of fuel and were plagued by flat tires, but none of these mishaps could dampen our spirit. We were looking forward to this weekend for far to long.

The start of the weekend found Myself and Michiel at half past three on Friday morning making our way out of the sleeping city while everyone else was still in dreamland and some suffering from the nightmares of unpaid bills and overdrafts.
When I pack my bags this commercial part of my life stays behind in the city, my cell phone is switched of and my mind as well.
Driving through Bianskloof with only the narrow beam of the HID headlamp dancing across cliff and scrub it feels like a video game with a flat two-dimensional frame in front of your face. The reality is that one small mistake and it is game over… for real.

Gydo pass rapidly transfer us from the warm low laying Ceres valley to the crisp chill of the “Koue Bokeveld”. Wisps of fog are being backlit by the glowing light above the horizon as the night enters into daylight.

Sunrise in the Cederberg
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We were set to make it in time for the start of the red route on the first day of the CABC and were making good time as a stiff pace was set on the relatively technical section past Eselbank. By the time we entered Wupperthal the pace became perhaps a bit to stiff as I overcooked the turn after crossing the Tra-Tra River.  I was faced with a patch of soft sand with a pile of building rubble in the middle, large stones and pieces of concrete ready to deform my rims, as the only thing left to do was to apply power at the last moment, floating the front across only to come back down into soft sand that grabbed the front and bury it deep sending me tumbling coming to a standstill on my shoulders and neck with my ass and legs pointing up in the air. Some locals were grinning at me from the next-door field they were working; they must have seen the whole spectacle unfold in front of them highlighting their day. No harm was done to body or machine so soon we were on our way again.

The turnoff to the “jeugkamp” where the event was held is just over 10km north out of Wupperthal on the left.
Dropping down into the small valley along the winding, sandy road I had to focus not to make another mistake as the sand became quite think at times. All the bike tracks were indicating there’s something happening here this weekend.
From the elevated position of the ridge the campsite looked like an oasis nestled in the valley surrounded by harsh mountain ranges.

After a quick registration we whipped up our tents and lighten our bikes by dropping all the gear and reported promptly and just in time to join the small group going on the red outride of the day. Dan the Man was the red route leader and anyone that has seen that man ride will tell you that you must crazy following him anywhere he is prepared to take that blue 1200GS of his. The day promises to be a lot of fun and excitement with only 35km to cover.

Red route ride to follow...

 
Hurry up please , I want to see more pics of my favorite supermodel....YOUR HPN ! :imaposer: :drif:
 
i also was attacked by a mosam. spitting cobra in pta about a year ago , just not as fast as dustdevil.
that is scary shit!

we want more story asb
 
Great so far Dust ( Dare ) Devil  , thanks ,  can't wait for the rest of your and Michiel's exploits  ;)
 
shoo, for a moment I thought I read something about leaving at 3.30AM!!!  :eek7:

looks lekker

 
So there have been a lot of talk about the red routes and what shade of red they will be. Michiel got very exited when he recognised a photo of the proposed routes where we were forced to turn around on one of our weekend excursions by one particularly gnarly section that was clearly plastic bike country, at least for the way up.
After reading Dan’s ride report Michiel decided that it sounds like it will contain some technical sections but will mostly be a scenic drive trough areas not normally accessible on your own. Light orange was what he was thinking, I mean how difficult can it be if the routes were scouted on a 1200GS!!

Atlantis sand was mentioned but then Atlantis is practically Michiel’s backyard, so sand does not intimidate the man. I mean he takes pillions into the dunes.
For me though sand is still a real challenge, so when we took the first turnoff into a small two track road and the yellow F800GS in front of me goes completely sideways, I knew we were going to be in for a real job today.
As I snaked past the yellow GS, I noticed it was fitted with Anakees?? It somehow put my mind at ease, but the relieve was short-lived because in less than half a km it was apparent that the guys up front was digging up a storm. Some of us stopped to deflate tyres but this was not enough to stop me from coming of three times, the second dislocating a rib or something that popped with a snap as my tucked in elbow forces the air from my lungs when I connected with the sand.
There was a lot of waiting for the other guys to clear the road and finally it was my turn.
The narrow two track was filled with deep sand and covered with the snakes left by the bunch that went in front.

I took a deep breath and moved cautiously down to the narrow drift needing a very slow entry and exit. Fortunately the soil here is still firm but as soon as you leave the drift the thick stuff is upon you with now real distance to get your speed up. I was in 1st gear and only just made it to the top of the rise before coming to an abrupt standstill almost going over the handlebar and screen.
Pulling away in first here was not going to do so I dropped the five-speed box down to 2nd, opened the throttle and let go of the clutch. The Michelin Desert is digging into the sand shooting a massive bow of sand out the back and slowly it pushes the bike forward until suddenly it lifts out of the sand like a hovercraft and takes of. I get on the pegs as soon as the speed is up but within moments it feels like I am breaking the sound barrier, I feel a desperate urge to slow down because if I come of here its gona hurt. The yellow F800GS has lost its composure again and has come to a standstill shooting up big billows of sand with the smooth Anakee across my path.

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Locking the back wheel graceful brings the big HPN to a rapid halt with the front still pointing in the right direction and the bike in the upright position, a great achievement as most rapid decelerations like this end up with the bike on it’s side and me crawling around in the sand somewhere.

All and all the real heavy sand was most likely less than quarter of a km although it felt like ten. By the end of that I was buggered and must have finished half of the water from my Camelbak. The red route was on and it was RED, real dark RED.

We followed the same route back except for one small turn of I did not even notice as I was still trying to catch my breath after the sand.  The next moment everything just suddenly got out of shape on a really steep and very loose uphill. It was a fight to get to the top in one piece and not to loose your form.
The surprised look on Michiel’s face at the top said a lot because he fearlessly goes up anything with that KLR650 of his and he is not easily intimidated. The individual handshake coming from Dan congratulating everyone that made it to the top was another indication that this is not your average bike ride. By this stage some have decided to return back camp.

The rest of the day continued to amaze in the shear beauty of the surrounding maintains and rocks. The route also posed some more challenging sections with each getting harder than the ones before as fatigue is setting in.
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photographer - Michiel
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photographer - Michiel
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photographer - Michiel

More than 90% of the entire route required being on the footpegs all the time. This was really hard work right up to the last insane and out of control decent just before entering the campsite.

A cold beer have never tasted this good before!!
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photography - Michiel
 
It was skills challenge time and although I usually never miss the opportunity to try and show of my skill on the HPN, I just don’t stand a chance. The beefy WP USD forks have reduced the steering angle and combined with the extra long wheelbase this bike just can’t turn in the same tight spaces as the 1200GS does.
The design of the HPN was spawned out of BMW’s desire to put their newly launched R80G/S on the map by winning the Paris to Dakar rally and HPN’s brief for building this bike was to design it for Africa. It needed to go fast and be stable in the soft desert sand of the Sahara. One way of doing this was to increase the wheelbase by more than 150mm from the standard G/S.
Below are some figures for comparison;
R80G/S - 1465mm
R1150GS - 1509mm
R1200GS - 1507mm
HP2 - 1610mm
HPN Paris Dakar - 1620mm

So needles to say, the HPN makes me look like a fool that have never been on a bike before and I could not even qualify for the final days event as only the 10 best riders are selected.
The bigger front wheel and awesome WP suspension with increased ground clearance makes any obstacle a breeze and I can get over and through the worst without a sweat. Only problem is that this track was laid out to weave your way trough the tightest turns with the steering right up on the steering lock and needing very good throttle and clutch control as well as near perfect counterbalancing of the weight of the bike to get it around the closely placed cones and poles.  
Halfway trough the coarse I have made so many mistakes being forced to put my feet down and often stalling the big Mahle motor as I struggle with clutch control.
This is hard on your body as it drains energy fast and by the time I am walking the log I am already so exhausted and half the coarse is still laying ahead. I never once dropped the bike but that is not going to be good enough.
Great respect for leftless though as he battles his HP2 into the top ten, a bike that is as difficult to handle on this kind of track as the HPN.

The red route on the following day ended up being a far more relaxing meander along some unused two-track farm roads, a thankful break from the previous days hard grind in the sand and rocks. We started the day on the steep and scenic little pass going up to the top of the Tra-Tra Mountain.
Dan led us across private farmland and through locked gates, permitted by the generous farmers from the area. The roads are washed out and full of gnarly ruts that often forces me to jump the big HPN across. You have to choose your line careful else you end up being closed out by a deep rut forcing you into the bushes on the side of the road. Although somewhat challenging and forcing one to be on the pegs most of the time the ride is less stressful allowing one to playfully throw the big machine around.

The surrounding area is getting more scenic by the minute with huge sandstone cliffs hovering, carved out over millennia by driving rain and wind leaving the most awesome formations and caverns.
Today’s challenge was to try and catch a glimpse of all this natural beauty and at the same time make sure you are not caught out by a deep rut or snaking through a sandy patch.

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At some point we were driving though some very small settlements perched on the rocky ridges. I always make it a point here of driving as slow and quiet as possible in spite of the young boys cheers and hand signals encouraging one to open up or even pop a wheelie.
It might impress them much but I am sure the elderly and more mature members of the community might see it very differently as I become aware some of the little ones hiding nervously behind their mothers dress.

I am surprised to see how many children there are in this small community and became very emotional for one moment when I stared into the curious face of an old lady standing content in the doorway of her simple abode. I am awestruck by the simplicity of life here as I think of the complicated mess my live have turned out to be with everyday SARS and Tax returns, admin, FICA, RICA, Traffic, customs, bills to pay, BEE compliance, insurance, bond applications, UFI submissions, internet connectivity, I mean do I really need all these things to make me happy, and then the SPAR around the corner wanting to charge me twelve Bucks for a cucumber. These people do not ever pay for a cucumber or even a lettuce head as it is grown in the dark rich soil of the narrow valley bellow.

At the end of the row of houses we started a decent down the gnarliest section of the day, it is a slip sliding down naked rock face with step-downs and loose rocks every yard of two. I reached a flat section in front of a house, a house down here? I was amazed, why would anyone build a dwelling were no car could even be parked out front? Although there was the wreck of an old Valiant that must have been air lifted by helicopter, as I do not see how it could have been brought down here on the track I just followed!!!

I stopped to wait for the others and the friendly farmer came out to see what the commotion was. I asked him if the road further down was worse.
He indicated that it was not, but later I would found out it did actually got worse but first I needed to attend to a flat rear wheel. The farmer pointed it out while standing in the gate in front of his simple but effective little cottage.  
This turned out to be a blessing as it gave us the time to connect with these friendly and helpful people.
William, the farmer replied when I asked for his name and it turned out that he does not own a cell phone or even a bank account but only a small patch of veg, nestled behind the cottage he proudly insisted to show me when the wheel was back on the bike.

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Now as far as the flat is concerned, a few lessons were learned. Although Michiel insist even to this day that his tire weld really works, he can only base that on one successful repair so far. Yesterdays flat was fixed with a patch later at the camp as the multiple inflations with the tyre weld still left the tyre slowly loosing air.
The patch also did not hold up and was the reason why we got stuck needing to do another tire repair at this unbelievable location.
The only real secure repair of a flat is to replace the inner tube with a new one, period!

We had some shade, local help and even a borrowed tire pump to get the wheel fixed in no time while children were playing around with Michiel keeping them entertained by taking pictures of them, showing it to them on the little screen of his digital camera.

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This short time with these people became very special as bikers and the local community members all get together to collectively solve a simple problem. What would normally be a grind for one guy on his own was done almost effortless and in the company of some amazing and caring people. William, family and community friends, I would just like to say thanks for a special moment, making me realize that there is more to life than bikes, money and fancy consumer goods.

Shortly after we are on our way only to be surprised again, can you believe, another small house further down an even worse section of the track. Here Michiel lost his way a bit and then also lost his footing when trying to find a way back to the non-existing track, laying his bike down for a short rest.
At some places it is hard to follow the original track as it became completely overgrown by fynbos being in un-use for a number of years. We caught up with the rest of the group waiting at an intersection with the track from the day before. Dan took the lead not giving us any time to catch our breath as I can feel my upper body taking a real workout wrestling the HPN over small steps and loose rocks.

A short distance backtracking  on yesterdays track brought us to one particular section I could clearly remember as I was crapping my self having to accelerate over a step-down hovering over one a half foot of a straight drop right into the middle of football size rocks. I cleared it with a racing heart and stopped to look back wondering how the other guys will handle this only to see a Yellow “gevaarte” tumbling over the side into the fynbos, it’s rider being thrown clear of the bike landing on his head.
Rider and bike turned out to be fine but now we are facing this thing going up!

In front every one was queuing as riders were taking it cautiously following a small but almost equally as difficult detour around the to the right.
I watch as another F800GS goes down as its rider looses faith halfway up and came to a near standstill with nowhere to put his feet down. It makes an ugly sound as plastic and alloy makes contact with quartzite and sandstone.
Michiel followed behind and passed the rider to get of to help and get the usual piece of photographic evidence.
The bike was rescued and with the riders ego laying shattered on the rocks he disappeared around the bend with Michiel chucking a few rocks to fill some of the worse holes following the same line as the one I came down on the day before.
I got going on the pegs with faith in Michiel’s call to go straight in spite of the fact that all the other guys opted out and went around instead.
Suddenly the carnage lay in clear view in front of me and it is to late to make any last minute changes, I am committed and it does not look very promising, there are large, loose rocks laying pilled on top of each other for almost two meters before getting to a vertical step up of about 400mm. Neither the rocks or the step-up is to great a challenge but the combination of the two together almost makes for a certain heart pounding moment.
I left the WP front suspension to deal with the loose rocks knowing that I only have one chance to blip the power to get the front wheel floating. Everything goes to plan and the big HPN performs like a well-trained jump horse and as I approach the big step, a slight twist of the throttle gets the powerful Mahle motor to jump into action as it takes the weight of the front and gracefully leaps up into the air bouncing of the step making it look like child’s play. I am chuffed with myself.

Leon Croukamp following close behind me on is HP2 was not so lucky as his front wheel comes crashing down into the step, bringing his bike to a immediate standstill forcing him to lay it down on the side. He does not waist time and before I could get of to help he lifted the bike and wrestled the back wheel over the step with stones rocketing of in all directions, this while walking next to it.
He sheepishly still insisted that it is’ the easier line, he should know, as they went up and down it a few times in the days before the event while they were scouting the areas to work out all the routes.

Good one Leon, this just to show that you worked out the red routes to be a real challenge even for the best of the best of riders. We loved it and really want some more so we will be looking out for this space next year.

The red route of the day was over but the adventure have not stopped yet as Michiel and myself have decided we want to go check out the crossing at the Doring Rivier on our way back the following day.
This crossing stopped some of the CABC participants on the way to the event and forced them the long way round as it was still to deep for a crossing.
We had other plans though and even if they do not work out I was really curious to see this river filled with water as it forced me the other way round so many times in the past but every time it was based on information from locals before even getting there.

Final skills challenge and the trip back to Cape Town to follow.

 

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