Malawi
That afternoon we went into Malawi, I was happy that they left my long hair un-cutted at the border post, we heard stories that men were not allowed to enter the country with long hair and that there are barbers at the borders that cut your hair just there and then, well it luckily didnt happened to us.
We drove on until Lilongwe and first went past the big market, we exchanged money and looked around and took a few photos before we booked in at the camping grounds at the Golf club at Lilongwe.
We met Eduard, he was 38 at the time and toured down from London with his bicycle, he gave us some info about the camping spots at Cape McClear.
A short story about Eduard: Nearly eight months later after I met Eduard in Lilongwe and my trip was over and I was working in an outdoor shop in Stellenbosch, Eduard walk into the shop. I recognized him immediately and we had an African reunion and shared many good memories. He then told me that after nearly 2 years on the road he still just want to cycle up the South and East coast of South Africa and then he will fly back to England from Durban. I am sorry to tell, but about 4 weeks later I saw the terrible news over the TV about a British adventurer that was murdered somewhere on the Wild Coast and I recognized his photo on the TV, that was sad that after his long trip through the whole Continent it had to come to its end here in our country. That brought tears in my eyes!!
Back in Lilongwe: That night at first we decided not to pitch the tents just for one evening, but we all woke up during the night from thousands of ants that were crawling all over us, so we were forced to pitch the tents quickly in the night to be able to sleep peacefully for the remainder of the night.
We drove now in the direction of Blantyre. After a while we got to Ngoma missionary station, Xander knew the pastor there, they were original from Stellenbosch, Ds Hennie van Deventer, so that night we camped on the lawn in front of there house and ate at the Van Deventers.
About 20 km after Dedsa we turned off the main road and took a beautiful road through the hills. We just stopped briefly at Monkey Bay and then headed on to Cape McClear. On the way to Monkey Bay Xander had his first fall, not serious at all and the only damage was his echo.
At Cape McClear we first stop at the local bar right there on the beach, u had a choice between Greens or Browns, it was the local made beer, both taste the same, it was just in different bottles. This little bar, Steve's Place, would become our entertainment place for the next 3 days.
We camped at Manuels Place, just 300 meters down the beach from Steves Place. It was amazing to just sleep there on the beach and swim in the clear fresh water of Lake Malawi. We paid R2-50 pppn for the camping.
Then next day, Patrick, a local took me and Xander over the lake in his makoro to a small island, we rented diving masks and fins from him and went snorkeling while he was preparing us a delicious meal, braaid fish and some stew from tomatoes. We also threw some pieces of fish to an Fish Eagle who gladly grab it. On the way back the wind came up and me and Xander were very concerned about our cameras on the slow sinking makoro, but eventually we made it safe back to the main land.
That evening an overland truck drove into the camp, they were well equipped and were playing some cool music over the big speakers from the truck. Me and Christo started chatting with two Dutch girls and they offered us some of there freshly baked Malawi Banana Cake and 45 minutes later all 4 of us were laughing our butts off, it was real good Banana Cake!!! The remainder of the evening were just one big party.
The next day we drove on until Salima, there we bought a 10 kg bag of grinded maize and divided it into 3 smaller bags, from then on we ate most of the time Mielie pap. Outside the little shop I saw a boy who were selling small braaid birds, he even offered u some salt and pepper with the braaid bird, but we rather skipped that.
Some rubber trees, all of them were been cut on the bark and had a small tin fastened to it to collect the dripping rubber liquid.
That night we slept at Livingstonia Beach Hotel at Senga Bay, a very beautiful place and again we were joined by an overland truck and some travelers. We now started making turns in the mornings to make mielie pap, I must admit that every morning we had a different texture of mielie pap.
The next day we drove until Nkata bay, one of the most beautiful places along Lake Malawi and we camped at Ngala camp for R2-50 pppn. That night I started getting fewer and immediately started drinking my malaria tablets, I remembered that I had 15 mosquito bite marks on my one hand at Lilongwe, so I reckoned it must be malaria. The night I was bitten I fell asleep while I was pulling the mosquito net over myself and my one hand was still outside, ready for the mozzys to attack. The next morning I still felt bad and still had a fewer but I was fine enough to drive on. The malaria tablets we bought in Zimbabwe worked like magic, thats the ones u drink when u already ill.
We stopped at Mzuzu for petrol and then went on to Livingstonia missionary station, it is on top of an 800 meter high platue and the road up there makes 21 u- bents and is 16 km long to the top, but a very nice view over the lake from the top. That night we slept in a Back Packers lodge and we had a nice cooked dinner. There were some Australians, Germans, Dutch and us sleeping at the Back Packers, it was an interesting dinner with interesting conversations. The next day at sunrise we took some nice photos and then went for a short hike to a very high waterfall and Christo took a quick swim.
We drove down the steep pass and headed north, towards the Tanzanian border. Some local boys in front of their house.
Tanzania will follow soon!!!!!!