The "D" in DS - Great Brak to the Kruger, via Rhodes.

[Ian in Great Brak River]

This was a trip that Charlotte and I had been talking about for far to long - and I had been planning in secret for far longer than she was aware of...

We have such a magnificent country and although she has seen a great deal of it from the pillion of the Varadero having done over 25 000km two up touring on that bike, we've also managed about 10 000km on the '82 Eddie Lawson Rep years ago untill the subframe understandably called time on bearing loads it was never meant to see never mind carry, this was all mostly in the East and South with a little quick taste of the beautiful Karoo to Priesca some years back.

This however was to be a wildlife trip first and foremost, in October when the weather is just right and more importantly, the grass is short in the Kruger... so needless to say this time on the STen, with some slight modifications to ensure greater comfort for what would ultimately be a 5300km trip in 3 weeks taking in Cape Town too ... and my best chinas farm in Gaansbaai.

Here then are a couple teasers of the trip...



Very rare African Python.



The magnificent Buffelsdrift Lodge outside Oudtshoorn.



Jaccaranda on the road to Sabie.



Khanya on Uncle Ian's bike, look at that smile !

     

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

This is a comparison shot of the "DS" form from my trip to Namibia...usual amount of extras that was not necessary and just added weight but then a successful trip is one where one does not use all that's dragged along.



This is the "D" version: a Givi topbox with backrest was a very good investment even though I had to have the mounting bracket brought in from the US in my luggage as it was not available in SA at the time when planning this became serious. Our jobs are not ones that allow long term planning ... we take time off when it suits someone else's schedule.

I also fitted a 20mm taller tinted screen that worked well, as there was little wind noise to interfere with the intercom system ... however only untill about 100kmh, then it gets a bit difficult to communicate.  



Tweedledum and Tweedledee don't you think

 

[Buks]

:thumleft: Subscribed.......
This is going to be a goodie!

 

[Casting from Turd]

Oh yess
Sub :thumleft: :thumleft:

 

[throttle jockey]

Bring it on bud.  :thumleft:

 

[Brandt]

sub...

 

[Jakkals]

Subscribed ............
:thumleft:

 

[Frannarossi]

Kom gooi die res.Ekt niks om te doen nie!

 

[Dusty Rusty]

Groot Brak is darm maar 'n mooi dorpie. 

Het nogals baie die vakansie daardie grondpassie en pad vanaf Spar tot by Blanco gery.

Sien uit na die res van die RR

 

[Oom Foe-rie]

Laat ek my lekkerlees brille opsit ................  :thumleft:

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

So we set off, nice and slow, it's colder than we expect and this was going to be the case for the next 3 weeks, but we're home and on holiday so have immunity from the weather and all else we don't particularly like. First quick stop is on the other side of the Outeniquas to close up all the holes letting in cooler air.









Somewhere else on this fine forum I had read about some dogs staying at the Buffelsdrift Lodge just outside Oudtshoorn on the Cango Caves road, so this was a surprise stop for Charlotte as I had all along played on the "let's see where we get to today" side of things. It's a perfect stop over to chill as there are 25 tented accommodation spots with outside shower, lekker little stoep that juts out over the water and best of all no cars ...anywhere. One is driven out to the tent in a golf cart and is encouraged to walk to and from the restaurant, pool etc... passing about 4 "No Swimming in the Dam, Hippo's Live Here" signs. Just lekker !!



We had #: 7, way down the bottom .. peace and quiet just what we need to be as far removed from what we all do from 8 to 5...(in our case 7am to 9pm most days)...





It was a short ride so far, just 160 odd km from Great Brak and we arrived early enough to have a nice look around and organize a sunset drive. In hindsight one night is not enough and at least two should be planned for because the sunrises in the Klein Karoo are spectacular. Early morning are best in SA ..period!







The interior of the tents are really comfy, the view out onto the water is just at the right height to remind us of the sail boats we worked on for 10 years.









It was moerse chilly to say the least but it's a nice kind of cold. Charlotte's from Denmark and I survived 7 years of Danish winters ... that's cold ! ... but there is no place better than Christmas in Denmark if you are lucky enough to have snow ... it's how it should be I've always thought.



The sunset drive takes you up into the koppies to the West; on the way we see Hippo's, Reedbuck, Giraffe, Kudu, Waterbuck, but the Eland stayed well hidden.



We met an English couple who had been here for 5 days, they used it as a base to explore the Klein Karoo... good idea.

I must add that it's a restaurant inclusive deal .. 3 course dinner is part of the daily costs, then there are the extras of hand feeding the 3 orphaned Kruger Elephants, the game drives or the horse back trips into the 4000 odd hectare reserve ...(I think the guide said 4000..?)







There had been some good rains in the area in Sept. just before we arrived and it was clear to see how the world comes to life so quickly again.





 





 

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

So the next day up early, too early as we head for Rhodes today ... a quick check of Mr. Garmins calculations confirms it's 826km from here ... Shit! ... damn that box of tricks ... so I was not pissed last night when I came to the same conclusion ... don't worry I say, the STen has a far better seat than the Varadero for such long trips ... little did I know. I love the 'Dero I do, it's an excellent two up full pannier tourer but it's a vibby bastard of a V-Twin (for me that is) that gets me in the coccyx after about 3 hours .. infact, I came close to selling it before it was rescued by the purchase of an Airhawk cushion.  

On the way we pass this oke ... "what's that ?" comes over the intercom ... "well....ah... it's a long story..." say I.  Where does one even begin to explain I ask you??



It's a long day this, just on 8 hrs and we do 90% blacktop ... the Rhodes turn off eventually arrives and it's in pretty good shape ... all 60km of it.



On the way to Rhodes we are passed by at least 872 311 BMW's all kitted out for war ... "shit", think I aloud, "are we being invaded...have I missed something serious just 'cause we had no TV in our tent last night." Turns out it's the annual BM jol in Clocolan. And yes, of course I do a bike count of those that greet ... been pre-programed to do so if anything by numerous posts on the forum: well I stopped counting after the 50th BM had passed... 9 greeted ... 'nough said about that then.





It's a beautiful part of the country and one I have never been to before .. another best mate was a forester in Ugie and I had seen plenty photo's about this part of the world ... it has a mysticism about it that's for sure.





On the way we stop often, just to listen to the silence ... not one cage or bike passes us ... wow, do we really have the place all to our selves I think?







It's lekker sunny, about 16'C and wind still .. perfect day other than seriously sore arses !



"I can dance, I can dance if I want too ..." or should that be "...and you see your gypsy..."



Rhodes materializes out from under wisps of veld brand, I had expected all 16 year round inhabitants to be in the hotel of course, to cast a calculating eye over all the foreigners on their bloody motor bikes as more and more arrive, most though head off deeper into town to a B&B or somesuch. We're shown to our 100 year old room with the thickest duvet on the bed I have yet seen by a perfect hostess who "escaped" to Rhodes 8 years ago. Soon 4 dusty, seriously moeg dudes arrive in a cloud of dust ... throw themselves down outside the pub and I'm convinced they all died on the spot ... just like that!

I'm not too worried because I have a nurse with me that also doubles as a long suffering wife ...of ah, ...19 or 20 years now I'm constantly reminded .. so we can easily revive one of two of them if push comes to shove. Turns out it's Buks, Rider 392, Skola and BakedBeans ... and the stories these oke's have about an epic Lesotho trip (reported on this forum) is astounding ... not least of which is a 4 man team hauling a GSA over the Drankensberg with ropes ... RESPECT guys !




 





 

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Need to get this RR done before the forum maintenance close down tonight.

As we leave Rhodes the mood sinks somewhat ... it really is a nice spot to spend some time but the Kruger awaits, and it's also about 800km away but we will overnight in Bethlehem. My intention was to head East of Lesotho and stay in Ladysmith or somewhere but it's now becoming clear that we have perhaps bitten off more than we can chew distance wise if we are to spend good time in the Kruger and head for Gaansbaai via CT ... so the shorter route wins out in the end ...



With another "we'll see where we get to" I keep tonight's surprise accommodation secret too, it's the perfectly placed Sabie River Bush Lodge, just 16km from the Kruger Gate entrance and the best place for a base to see this lovely part of the world.

Another quiet room way off to the left.



Sabie River Bush Lodge is small, has super friendly staff and another of those all meals included in the daily rates that just makes sense nowadays as one gets pissed off at all the extras added to the final account in other places.



It's right on the river so everything on the other side is the Kruger and they have a pod of resident hippo's in the river pools right in front of the Lodge, a large raised swimming pool with a great game viewing deck has flood lights on at night and is the best part of the place as the hippo's come out at night to graze .. sorry I only have video footage of that so no photo's





There are few places that I am up at 5am to see the sunrise, Great Brak is one and this was well worth the effort. The sounds are spectacular; nowhere have I heard so many frogs at night, infact one is woken when they all go silent for 2 minutes somewhere during the night.







We arrived in time to be offered a quick afternoon drive so we jumped at the chance. It makes a world of difference to have a expert local guide with you who is a wealth of knowledge. The gates close at 6pm sharp and are strictly enforced.





The park has 250 000 Impala or Rooibokkies ... also known as the McDonalds of Kruger as they are the first course for all that hunts here and have a remarkably short memory so will be back in the exact spot that one of them has just been taken by a Leopard again within 3 hrs.

Giraffe are more of a challenge it seems...



This youngster is a left handed fellow as the tusk has been damaged at some point ... apparently.







 

   

 

[Frannarossi]

Nice Ian :thumleft:

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments.

The next morning dawned real early .. for Charlotte that is as I had been awake as any 8 year old would be when promised a trip into the Kruger for a sunrise and breakfast drive... did I mention the 400 000 frogs as a welcome to the night serenade ?

Patrick our guide was especially keen to get going ... it was 5.15am by now, did he know something special ?

Turns out The King was doing His Thing with his hareem to ensure the future of his species on earth ... and the jungle drums had been sounding early on so we knew exactly where to go.





Can you see Mrs. Lion in the foreground bottom right, (in the triangle made by the yellow bossies) just the black tips of her ears are visible ... as nature intended so the following cubs can keep an eye on mom in the long grass.

It's quite something when this guy gives you the beady eye all of 12m from us ... and we're in a Bakkie with a lappie on it ...  



There are 3 Lion in this shot, the female in foreground bottom right lying on her back on RHS and another female just to the left of the male.



We moved on as there were other vehicles keen to view and it's Africa, so within 600m there's another group of 12 Impala...completely oblivious to any danger in the area.

Also seen was plenty Vervets.



This is a male as he has no tufts of hair on the horns.



Another rare bird, the African Red Hornbill, mostly a ground dweller and will only fly when it absolutely has to.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

There is plenty to see in the park, and a recent fire had made it easier still ... here a mother and baby close up.





You try carry a ton on two feet...



5000 muscles in the trunk I believe.





We were lucky enough to see the Big 5, here is a shot of 4 Rhino lying down. The Leopard had just killed an Impala but it was to far away for a clear photo.

The efforts that SAN Parks are doing to ensure the safety of the Rhino should be commended as it's very difficult to patrol 20 000 square km of area, I strongly believe poachers should serve a minimum of 20 years as our wildlife is a national treasure and needs to be protected at all costs.



This little guy probably see's 100 cars a day so is not fazed by it all... 



All along after a great hot breakfast at a river side stop Patrick had been saying to keep an eye out on the left hand side of the bakkie as there was a large Tortoise there and we should try to spot it. Of course he knew it was the African Python that had been here for 2 days as it had recently caught something and was chilling in a culvert under the roadway. We were extremely fortunate to see them as they are so rare and endangered.



Hippo and Cape Buffalo.



This old guy was not impressed with all the traffic and showed us all what he thought about the matter...



... and soon headed off...



African symbiosis.



Spot the croc...



Ever seen a 5 legged Tusker...neither had I.

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

We were lucky to see plenty Lion and here were the juniors doing what all kids do .. sleep.



...and then look for something to chew on ...



A quick stop in Skukuza.





The night before this shot we had done a night drive and had gotten out of the bakkie at 9pm at the main gate to walk to our car that was to take us back to Sabie Lodge.. here are two male Lions (difficult to see I know) but they are not 200m from the gate entrance where we were last night.... makes you think.



We had spent 3 great days in and around the Kruger and had seen the big 5, a Leopard kill, plus 3 Hyena and 7 Rhino on the night drive ... again the Eland eluded us..

It was time to head South to CT, 2450km away...I thought it was a 3 day trip ... more like 4 as that road was long and boring but we were on holiday so it must be a pleasant trip if anything. Sabie has changed plenty since I was there 10 years ago...it always was a nice place and still is...but we were rolling South.



The Jaccarandas were fantastic...even though an invasive species.





On the lekker roads out here...





Sabie in the distance.







And so we entered the Klein Karoo again, the weather had changed again and near Graaf Reinet it was cloudy and cool.





Interesting cloud formations

 

[DirtRebell]

Blerrie nice report Ian - thanks for sharing!

 

[Ian in Great Brak River]

And so Cape Town came and went ... suffice to say it used to be home ... but I am just a tourist there like many others, however I actually enjoyed it this time. Charlotte could move there tomorrow quite easily ... ons sal maar sien wat gebeur.

One place I do like to go to with the Slaapstad family is Boschendal for lunch.





Gaansbaai called and the Dumont family ... a crazy household of kids, horses, goats, chickens, pigs, sheep, snakes, fish, tractors ..etc you get the picture no doubt.







Last year Dani, on the right here, went for a ride but was not keen this time...



When all's said and done, this is the photo of the trip...Mother and Daughter..



Steven was his usual camera shy self...



And so this trip comes to a close, 5300 km in 3 weeks...far to far and I will not attempt it again in such a short time but the intention was to show my dear wife the Northern part of this beautiful strange place and to annoy the usual suspects with our presence for 2011. They will now get a chance to recuperate untill our next uninvited invasion ... a fitting sunset shot taken by Charlotte at Botlierskop in Klein Brak.





That was the "D" in DS...

Thanks for your time and I'll thank you for mine. (Rodrigues)



 



 

 

[Buks]

eepwall: Great RR Ian!!! Was great meeting you and  Charlotte!
By the way, I'm clean and alive........till next time in Rhodes....!!