To the East and to the West, don’t ask what was best! COMPLETE!

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Tuesday morning and we had to be back by Friday evening, or my darling Mom would not be amused, so, Swaziland sounded just right.  We had packed the bikes, and lubed the chains, carefully stored the chunk of Christmas Cake my gran had baked and set off.  Filling up in Barberton, I popped into a shop for some coffee, and was approached by a lady “Excuse me, but I have to ask, are you guys riding through Africa”, while a group of others press closer to hear the answer.   I WISH!  Guess our new grey Pimp Suits really must look the business!  I was almost embarrassed to disappoint her, so said we were covering Africa from East to West.  That appeared to satisfy her.  
Now it’s 42 odd kilo’s to Belembu from Barberton, and it’s one of the best roads for twisties I’ve ever ridden… so, I grinned a rather evil smile at my love, and took off.  I had new tyres, and chicken strips have to be removed as soon as possible, so I tried to get my knee down on my little bike as often as possible.  The sensation of powering up these hills cannot be described easily, and only having sand drifts over the road from recent rains and no cows was a real blessing. I reached the SA border with a daft grin, every now and again emitting a rather maniacal giggle. Dirt rules, but tar can be fun every now and again!

The border crossing was quick and smooth, with very friendly staff on both sides.  We were soon on the road into Swaziland.  We wound up through the mountains, towards Piggs Peak, enjoying the stunning views, avoiding the road damage done by the storms, and generally appreciating the morning.  Suddenly, in front of Mark appeared a huge logging truck, loaded to the top, and obviously realizing he was moving too fast for the descent, as indicated by the sudden show of the whites of his eyes.  Mark somehow flattened his bike along the edge of the steep slope, being missed by the truck by mere inches.  I believe he also had a similar eye experience.  Thereafter, we were a little more aware of the difficulties there trucks would have on these steep rock-broken roads, damp from the rain and the tree canopy maintaining these wet levels.  I would not like to see anyone ejecting from the narrow roads down the extraordinary steep slopes in some parts of the area.  

We crossed at Josefsdal /Belembu Border Control. I have heard horror stories about the larger border control post so will definitely use the smaller ones after the fast and friendly service we received.
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Our bikes were inspected on the SA side only……all documents were in order so again no worries.
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Wooohhhoooo into Swaziland we go and what tar there is ends. The ride to Piggs Peak is full of tight twisties, downhill, uphill, ruts, loose rock….perfect. What a good start to the days riding.
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African speed control…herds of wondering cattle. Not that we were in any rush to get anywhere. As a matter of fact I don’t think our speeds were ever higher than 120km/h. For most of the trip we cruised at 100/110km/h.
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Malibu …. What a happy young lady.
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My control station….most of the time the GPS was on the blink and the map was….mmmm helpful , sometimes. But hey that is the way I like it. Have a general idea where you are going and follow what ever road that travels in that direction.
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Enjoying the Biltong
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Another artsie fartie pic
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Never mind Caltex oil saving you petrol…Malibu’s 640 sips petrol so I thought it quite apt to call Malibu the petrol saving device on this trip
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And what’s up with the petrol price…….R1 cheaper than SA.
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We opted for riding the MR2, it was a gravel road.  The beauty of these mountains really is extraordinary.  Rolling green assaults your eye, capped with blue, softened by white cotton-moist clouds!  We slowly descended from the high areas to a vast region reminding me of Northern Natal.  The free-roaming cattle was our only concern, till a mentally deranged white chicken played ‘chicken’ with Mark.  They both lost, or is that won… Pretty damn funny from my seat, Mark was not amused.  Could not get his tongue around “Chicken-a-bunga”.  

We had no real fixed route in mind but just wanted to be close to Seteki by the end of the day. The map we had showed a gravel road nearly all the way there (MR2) so that was the route we will follow
But first it was a fuel stop in Piggs Peak where we say this sign…..good name for a road that has cars traveling in both directions. Just got to love Africa

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Like Malibu I was reminded very much of the roads in Zululand, at times I felt like I was back there.
We stop at a high point to take in the spectacular view of the valley we were about to descend into.

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That big white road is the MR2
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Saw an old bridge from the road later, so we wound our way down to it, only to meet the most delightful old guy.  He dubbed Mark “Madala” as they both shared white beards.  He went off with a crenellated smile and a recently acquired cigarette leaving Mark, thoughtfully, stroking his beard.

The bridge where we met the Madala
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And the Madala, I always wonder what they think of us bike riders with all our luggage, riding around the country side.
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Right so, later again, we found ourselves riding through another conservancy area.  Swaziland has a lot of land set aside for game and it appears to be well monitored.  To our right, the signboard indicated camping available, Hlane Royal Game Reserve.  Well, if you never ask…  We rode down the dirt road, parked at the thatched entrance and was welcomed by the most delightful girl.  Her smile lit the room and her bubbly personality included us into her world instantly.  Yes, we can camp, yes, bikes are welcome.  Well, we were out of South Africa where the Parks Board is renowned for their anti for bikes, but this was amazing.  We putted down to the main camp, received a second warm welcome and moved off to find our perfect camping spot, a little taken back by the friendliness.  Nothing was rehearsed, it was a genuine welcome.  We set up our tent, washed our few items of laundry and went for a stroll around the camp fence.  I do not ever remember seeing so many birds in one place.  The very air was alive with a myriad of species.  A Drongo continually flew ahead of us, appearing to pose for every photograph.  We eventually got rid of him after we became absorbed with hordes of other creatures.  Rhino, a very proud male and four females with calves owned the waterhole, sharing only with the 3 resident hippo.  Gliding through the background, a multitude of antelope and buck paused for their fill of water before moving off again, allowing place for others.  The young hippo apparently has an identity crises, unsure whether he be hippo or rhino, and this was displayed by his rather peculiar behavior to the rhino.

The welcome we received at the Hlane Game Reserve was mind blowing. Every other time I have tried to camp at a Game reserve I was turned away with disdain and told in no uncertain terms that bikes are not allowed or welcome. In we went, found a spot and set up camp.
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Here’s a couple of pics of the camp site and main buildings
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After setting up camp we went for a walk around the camp site and boy were we in for a surprise. So much wild life about and the bird life is plentiful. Glen Hall, the reserve manager, told us that they do a bird count very month and within an hour and half they have counted at least 200 different species. I can well believe that.
Here a couple I was able to photograph

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We all so saw snake, well actually a tree full of snakes.
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And this beautiful lizard
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Then it was down to the waterhole. Here again we saw plenty of game.
The rhino and Hippo were giving us their best sides so what was I to do but try to capture it.

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I am sure these two hippos in the pic above were having a good old chat about the cocky rhino that were laying in their water hole because what happened after this was quite hilarious. I’ll try to tell the story as I saw it.

A game-plan of intimidation was put into the works.  One Hippo took a flying leap into the pond while the other stealthily tip-toed up to the sleeping Rhino.
 
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He did a covert water entry without too much of a splash.
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While keeping a close eye on the Rhino making sure they do not wake. 
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Then it was a leopard-crawl into position to start the intimidation.
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He maintained eye-contact for minutes, staring the rhino into submission.  The first too falter was the baby. 
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Then the mother trundled up, feeling the vibes.
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This was fascinating to watch, and quite a privilege to see this interaction between different species. 

Here are a couple of pictures of the father who tried the same tactics with us.
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But thankfully we had an electric fence between us and them.
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When we got back to the camp site there were a couple of Impala grazing.
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While sitting watching all this, Mark suggests a swim.  In the Indian Ocean.  In the next country.  Tomorrow.  We are Adventure Riders after all.  So after a terrific dinner, we slept early.

End of a good day
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Awesome pics guys!  :thumleft:
But there's no ways that little fence - electric or not - is going to stop a pissed off rhino or hippo  ;D
 
letsgofishing said:
Awesome pics guys!  :thumleft:
But there's no ways that little fence - electric or not - is going to stop a pissed off rhino or hippo  ;D

;D

at the other game reserve in SA there was very little left of the fence......it had been trampled by rhino, Buffalo or something.
 
:salut: :salut: :salut: :salut: :salut: Awesome!!!
 
cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezussssssssss
lovely stuff you 2

and MALIBU ,,,,,, you on a KTM now ... youve had more bikes than i have undies .................. uhmmmm ... ok ... not a good analigy ... but dang woman ... slow the fork down ... i need to catch up 
demmit
 
Great stuff --so far  :thumleft:Keep it coming Judes and Mark ---
 
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