TTR-250: Swaziland Border & Verkykerskop.

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MAT250

Puppy
Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
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Location
Centurion
Bike
Honda CRF-250 Rally
So how do I start one of these again, have not done a long ride for quite some time. No one else to blame but myself for not maintaining that strange concept some refer to as a “Work-Life Balance”.

As an average rider I’ve got no obsession for dirt only or searching for serious technical riding, but one never knows what an unexplored road will bring to you. An innocent small tar road on a map that you find in reality heading off into the hills as you turn off some main road that soon become a dirt road and by the time you feel compelled by the scenery to stop for the second or third photo you are on a remote pass in the mountains sometimes sweating and testing your riding skills to new limits. In that I find the pleasure and adventure of duel-sport riding.

Packing as usual is a mission and I’ve been putting it off till the last moment but at last around 00:45 everything is packed and stacked in front of the bookcase as I sit there wide awake eyeing the somewhat large heap and wondering what I’ve forgotten or should have found space for. Time flies however when you do eventually fall asleep only to almost instantaneously hear the alarm clock do it’s thing.

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Packing the bike is without problems and just after 08:00 I’m out the gate. On the Delmas road and near Babsfontein many bikes pass the loaded TTR-250 on their way to the usual Sunday morning breakfast spots. I’m smiling inwardly as I will not be turning for home today, for the next few days the road and my tent will be my home.

Breakfast and the first of many fuel stops are in Bethal and from there I head through Hendrina to Carolina. Boring kilometers with mielie (maize) fields in every direction and in places as far as the eye can see but the road is not busy and not on the always busy N4 highway. Shortly after Carolina the mountains and scenery start at last as I go over the edge of the escarp descending to Badplaas where I will be camping tonight. Apart from stops where the road is closed off in a single lane for road works the road is in good condition and it is not long before I’m at the resort’s gate where there is a huge sign with “No Motorcycles Allowed”. The friendly guard however directs me to reception without a fuss where I’m signed in also without any questions.

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And so it is that an hour later and with expectations of a beautiful sunset I’m about to enjoy coffee and rusks with the tent and bike for company.

(Total Distance for the day - 323km)


Day 2
Today and after looking at the map should not be a long day. On a previous trip we discovered the abandoned Diepgezette Village on the Swaziland border but it was late in the day and we did not have time to really look around so it was placed on the “must visit again with more time” list.

After filling the bike up I’m on my way to the Oshoek border post between South Africa and Swaziland where I hope to find the dirt road heading down into the valley. Badplaas is at 1058m ASL and it was somewhat cool when I left, now after only 40km and back high on the escarp at 1600m ASL however it is cold and the wind is blowing. Not sure about where I’ll get fuel again and with the cold I’m more than happy to stop in Lochiel and fill the bike up to the brim.

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What you see on a map and find in reality is often not the same so I miss the first turnoff but about 5km before the border post I’m at last on the dirt road and descending down into the valley and a much more agreeable temperature at around 800m ASL.

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The road is steep in places with a lot of loose gravel sometimes covered with powdery stuff and to keep your attention just when you think you have figured it all out, there are gullies from rainwater erosion first running with the road and then suddenly diagonally across with no way of escaping it. Once down on the valley floor however the road is good and I realize how soaked with sweat I am as I open up the TTR and enjoy riding the bike at a faster but relaxed speed.

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All too soon it seems I’m at the control boom before Diepgezette Village where I’m let through without questions and start exploring around the abandoned village.

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Apart from the long grass slowly but surely reclaiming some parts of the village it is generally still in good condition although a little eerie walking around the place by yourself expecting to bump into someone at any moment. It is almost as if everyone disappeared into thin air overnight and it is not long before I start to wonder about aliens and abductions ....

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The shortcut past the school on the left down to the recreational facilities in the distance.

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Finding parking is no problem,.... perhaps I’m just early.  This ghost town was once the village for people working at the Diepgezette Asbestos Mine and is still maintained by the mining company.

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Down the slope from the building above there is this Ferris wheel and to the left out of the picture an empty swimming pool.

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The village is near the end of the valley and as I exit through the boomed gate at the northern end of the village I almost immediately start the climb to back high up in the mountains. The road after Diepgezette is also in good condition with amazing views so I can’t help but stop and take some more photos.

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After about 14km of great off-road riding and spectacular views I turn left onto the R40 to Baberton. This tar road is high in the mountains and the air is cold again, but with most of the 35km to Baberton in good condition it is a pleasure to ride the many twists and turns almost by myself. By the time I’m in Baberton I’ve passed one pedestrian, enjoyed fruit juice and a sandwich given to me by a couple touring through the country in a 4x4 at a lookout point and passed no more than three or four cars.

The longest cableway outside of Europe and apparently the only one crossing an international border can be seen along this road. Built in 1938 the aerial cableway links the now disused Havelock asbestos mine in Swaziland with Barberton. The 20,36km long cableway is supported by 52 pylons as it crosses the Makhonjwa Mountains with the longest unsupported span being 1207m and the highest point above the ground being 189m.

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From Baberton I head back to Badplaas on the R38 where I’ve left the tent, only 72km but seriously questioning why I did not take the time to re-fuel in Baberton. On the outskirts of Badplaas I’m smiling with relief as I’ve done more than 200km and is still not on reserve since filling up in Lochiel  .... normally the TTR will only go to 175-180km before telling me it is time to switch to reserve. I guess happiness is a full tank of petrol and celebrate it with a few beers while looking through the day’s photos !

(Total distance for the day 251km.)
 
Day 3:
I’m up early but slow in breaking camp and getting everything strapped back onto the bike. It is much nicer lounging around with a coffee and taking photos.

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But the sun waits for no one and eventually somewhere after 09:00 I’m on the bike but first go and look for a waterfall someone at the resort told me about. (When you travel on a bike by yourself people tend to come over and talk you.)

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It’s become a beautiful day to be out on the bike but the air is cold and once back high on the escarp it is around 17C and really cold as I’m riding into the wind on my way to Lothair where I re-fuel the bike and get something also for myself to fend off the cold.

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Lothair is a small and dusty place with a maize silo and a busy railway station due to the forestry and logging activities in the area. I ask the guy filling the bike up if there is anything else to see in the town to which he responds without hesitation, “uhmmm no, this is it”. So

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The day before I had quite a debate with myself on whether I should head north or south from Badplaas. The reason I’m standing here south of Badplaas looking at a map is simply due to the interesting and not typical African names of places in the area, Lochiel, Dondonnald, Fernie, Amsterdam ... that I’ve always wondered about.

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Today still the area is referred to as New-Scotland, this is all due to an eccentric Scotsman, Alexander McCorkindale, who fell in love with this area around 1856 because it reminded him so much of his home country and convinced the ZAR government to sell him 200 farms near the Swaziland border for 8000 pounds sterling that he raised by selling the mineral rights to the Glasgow & South African Company Limited that he established while in Scotland and Europe to recruit settlers to come to South Africa. He returned in 1866 and toured the area with President Pretorius to select possible sites for the capital of his “republic” to be called New Scotland.
The New Scotland area was divided into three parts, Industria in the northern part based near Lake Chrissie (today Chrissiesmeer), Roburnia in the middle that was renamed to New Amsterdam by President Kruger and Londina to the south that today is the Piet Retief district.
McCorkindale had many other ideas for this area but in 1871 he was struck down with malaria and died on the island of Inhaca in Mozambique while surveying the area for a possible harbour. With his death most of his dreams died also and apparently it took the ZAR government about 20 years to untangle the whole thing.

By the time I’ve finished my cider and before I could decide to have another one the map book is packed away and I simply head further south with Lüneburg, the original settlement of German Lutheran missionaries, the objective on the back roads between Piet Retief and Paulpietersburg.

But after a short spin trough Amsterdam wasting time and a late lunch in Piet Retief it is obvious that I will not make it to Lüneburg with enough time to look around and still make it to Paulpietersburg where I plan to camp tonight. While refueling in Paulpietersburg with the sun already low in the west I fish out the telephone number of Natal Spa that a camping neighbor gave to me in Badplaas. Booking confirmed and with the TTR filled to the brim again I enjoy the late afternoon light on the short ride to Natal Spa where I pitch my tent not too far from the pool.

While servicing the chain before it is completely dark a stranger walks up to me and starts talking about this and that while eyeing the bike, turns out his son has recently done a trip to Vic Falls on a F800GS. A short while later they are both back for more bike and bike touring talk and me enjoying a free dinner the wife of one of the guys flashed up for me.

(Total distance for the day 257km.)


Day 4:
It is cold and misty as I crawl out of the tent to flash up the gas stove for coffee and instant oats but then decide to treat myself with a proper breakfast at the spa and start packing till only the tent is left before I head for a long hot shower to drive out the cold.

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The buffet breakfast is a feast after the coffee and oats routine of the previous days. I’m the only one in the restaurant and it is not long before I’ve eaten my way through almost everything on offer. Munching on a last custard filled danish as I walk back to the bike I notice what a nice morning it has become

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From Natal Spa in brilliant morning light and crisp air I head back to Paupietersburg and turn left towards Vryheid on the R33. The plan was last night to travel through places like Vryheid, Bloedrivier, Glencoe, ....to end up in the Golden Gate area and camp at the Sterkfontein Dam. This route is however quite a dogleg and a lot of distance for one day especially after the extended breakfast feast.

From last night’s map studying session I remember a short cut through the mountains to Utrecht and as I pass the faded signboard to Kempslust I turn left without much debate. It is a small tar road and it is obvious that it does not see much traffic. Just over the horizon in the photo below it becomes a dirt road and I never found a place called Kempslust.

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Great off-road riding and beautiful scenery but no signboards indicating that this is actually the road to Utrecht, it just seems to get more remote as the km roll by and it is not long before I start to think about fuel again. I stop at some locals on their horses to ask them if the road actually goes to Utrecht. For awhile there is much talking and pointing going on but not a word is understood by either party. At least all the hands are indicating straight on.

A short distance on I stop again to ask a guy with his dog sitting in the sun on the side of the road watching his cattle graze in the distance. In quite good English he confirms that it is indeed straight on and Utrecht is basically on the other side of the mountain ahead of me.

And this is how I discovered Knights Pass with a lot of loose gravel on the ride down to Utrecht.

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Time also flies when you are having fun, it is midday and it has become quite hot by the time I arrive in Utrecht but I’m all smiles about the morning’s riding and down two Ciders almost in the same time it takes to re-refuel the bike.

From Utrecht I want to go to Memel but the map indicates that it will require a 33km dogleg dipping down through Newcastle to get on the R34 to Memel. I mention my dilemma to the garage owner who has been circling the dusty and loaded bike asking questions like how far does it go on a tank, where am I from, where have I been, where do I sleep, .... and he tells me about this shortcut from the N3 to the Memel road. It is only a short 13km dirt road but what a pleasure to ride. The hill to the front or perhaps the one I’m on in the photo below is where the Skuinshoogte Battle took place during the first Anglo-Boer War.

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On 8 February 1881 General Colley was determined to frighten off the raiding Boers with a show of force near Skuinshoogte (Ingongo).  As the British artillery opened fire on the Boer commando, the Boers made a direct charge while sustaining accurate rifle fire from the saddle causing the death of all the gunners. Military authors at the time commented with amazement that the Battle of Skuinshoogte had overturned conventional 19th Century military perception by showing that cavalry can overpower artillery. 6 Officers and 70 men were killed and 63 wounded in this action, against the Boer losses of 8 men killed and 6 wounded.  The first Anglo-Boer War was apparently the only war lost by the British Empire during the 19th Century.

On the road to Memel .... and amazed at the wide open spaces still in this area.

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In Memel I re-fuel again for the last stretch to Sterkfontein Dam via Verkykerskop but the day
is getting old again and I do not even bother to take my helmet off. Bit of a shame though as it seems the little town is worth a bit more than just a quick fuel stop.

The dirt road from Memel to Verkykerskop is possibly the rockiest road I’ve ever rode a bike on but it takes you through the scenic landscape of the Eastern Free State made even more dramatic and beautiful in the late afternoon light.

Small sections are tarred but it is a dirt road till shortly before Verkykerskop. Close to Memel the road is not that bad but as you ride further up this valley and once you are out and top of the hills above the valley it gets worse with a lot of loose gravel and rocks.

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Verkykerskop is a really small place and I nearly ride straight through it in the time it takes to blink twice. With the sun already low in the west I’m in a bit of a rush to get to Sterkfontein Dam with enough light to still set up camp before it is completely dark but turn around to have a quick look around anyway.

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Even though it is late I decide to actually get off the bike and take a look inside. Turning around and getting of the bike turns out to be the best impromptu decision of the trip. It is like stepping back in time and suddenly time and the setting sun is no longer chasing me. It is difficult to actually call the place by a single name as it is a shop, post office, restaurant and bar all rolled into one and everything in it is from a time other than present.  I’m the only one there but after looking through the menu I ask anyway if it is too late to order something. No problem is the friendly response and the bar is even opened with Rodriguez and Cat Stevens to keep me company while I wait for the food to arrive. 

Halfway through the pizza that I’ve covered with more that enough garlic and somewhere between opening another cider and taking this photo I realize I’ve already given up on the idea to ride any further today.

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I rent a little hut and start to service the chain with the gas stove going to make coffee as the sun disappears over the horizon. By the time the chain is done it has become the darkest night that I’ve experienced in a long time. Being this far away from any major towns there is no air or light pollution, only a zillion stars in every direction in an otherwise pitch-black night sky. It has also become icy cold but I linger around outside looking at the stars and getting absorbed in the utter silence as I reflect on an amazing day out on the bike and riding to nowhere in particular.

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(Total distance for the day - 229km.)


Day 5:
For awhile I contemplate heading further south as I page through the map book, perhaps going around Lesotho through the Eastern Cape and then north back home through the Free State. But going around Lesotho will have to wait for another trip, after breakfast I decide it is time to head home.

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At Warden I get off the busy N3 highway and stay on the back roads as much as possible. Boring distance but with no other options if I want to be back home before sunset. During lunch in Standerton I’m looking through the map book again searching for the shortest route to Centurion and notice the little town of Val. It is not on the shortest route but worth a visit so off I go to Val.

Just before Val there is this place on the side of the road, not sure what the story is but the road is boring and my butt is sore so I stop and take a photo anyway.

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And then a quick stop in Val. The traffic is hectic but persistence pays off and I finally find a place to park the bike. After tacking a few photos I’m out of there and chasing the sun again.

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Shortly after Val the afternoon had become strange due to road works that require detours in the wrong direction and just kept on getting stranger as the afternoon is getting older. In Delmas the late afternoon traffic is crazy but I need fuel again and reluctantly stop at the first garage I see, it feels like chaos as taxis and trucks are making up their own rules for what road space and space at the filling station is open.  At this point and knowing that there is nothing further to add to the trip, the only thing on my mind is to get home and out of the traffic.

Just before sunset I’m home at last and push the bike into the garage. Not quite sure what to do now without having to pitch the tent or organize the camp, I just sit there looking at the bike for quite awhile, the dust on the tires and rims, the gear still tied onto the back, the insects stuck to the goggles and helmet, the new tires that are now slightly worn .... I guess bike travel somehow takes you further than the places you have been to.

(Total distance for the day - 433km)

Total Trip Distance – 1493km
 
Very nice. Now tell me, how long have you had that tent of yours ?  :ricky:
 
TVB said:
jupiter said:
Very nice. Now tell me, how long have you had that tent of yours ?  :ricky:

I was having the same thought!

Myne hier so van die mid tagtigs af.  :biggrin: Was my eerste motor bike toer tent en hy is nog 100%
 
very nice ride you had and I really like that ghost town,anymore photos of it. :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
Awesome trip and well written RR, beautiful pics... and solo!  :thumleft:
 
I'm green with envy! 

;)

What a lovely trip! 
Your bike look's pretty neat too! :thumleft:
 
jupiter said:
Very nice. Now tell me, how long have you had that tent of yours ?  :ricky:

;D ..... yes that tent, actually looked at one of the photos and was wondering the same thing myself. Think I've had it from somewhere around 1990 or something. Still the lightest tent and easiest to pitch of all my tents though, so it usually goes with when I take the 250 for a spin.

The TTR has got just over 17,000km on it and is a great bike, will be riding this bike for a very long time still. 
 
DRAZIL said:
very nice ride you had and I really like that ghost town,anymore photos of it. :thumleft: :thumleft:

Sorry DRAZIL, I do not have any more photos of the village. Ran out of memory on my camera later on in the trip so had to delete some .... needles to say, more memory was promptly installed soon after this trip.
 
Very nice.

I kind of "grew up" with Badplaas. My family went there regularly during my childhood days.

Left of that waterfall is a pipe that received water from a damwall a couple of hundred metres upstream. The water in the pipe used to drive a turbine generator just below where you took the photograph. That was the only electricity for the city of Badplaas. One would frequently sit in the movie on a Saturday night and the power would fail - darkness like you cant believe.

Thanks for sharing.

 
MAT250 said:
jupiter said:
Very nice. Now tell me, how long have you had that tent of yours ?  :ricky:

;D ..... yes that tent, actually looked at one of the photos and was wondering the same thing myself. Think I've had it from somewhere around 1990 or something. Still the lightest tent and easiest to pitch of all my tents though, so it usually goes with when I take the 250 for a spin.

The TTR has got just over 17,000km on it and is a great bike, will be riding this bike for a very long time still. 

When on the open road what speed does the bike feel happy at.I like these bikes big time.
 
whitedelight said:
MAT250 said:
jupiter said:
Very nice. Now tell me, how long have you had that tent of yours ?  :ricky:

;D ..... yes that tent, actually looked at one of the photos and was wondering the same thing myself. Think I've had it from somewhere around 1990 or something. Still the lightest tent and easiest to pitch of all my tents though, so it usually goes with when I take the 250 for a spin.

The TTR has got just over 17,000km on it and is a great bike, will be riding this bike for a very long time still. 

When on the open road what speed does the bike feel happy at.I like these bikes big time.

Mine's got a smaller front sprocket which makes no difference to the top speed but makes for a slightly better first gear.

I think the answer you're looking for is probably 90km/h. It lets you know that it is not really happy at 110, even though it can get there.

You agree MAT?
 
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