West to East across the USA [“Portland to Maryland”]: September 2015 (links to the pictures fixed)

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Jabus

Pack Dog
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Bike
BMW R1200GS Adventure
NOTE: While publishing my 2022 report (https://wilddog.net.za/threads/american-southwest-loop.283789/post-5208621), I noticed that the URLs to the pictures in this ride report are no longer working. I find the report a bit lame without images...almost like looking at an old Scope magazine 😊. After adding photos to this thread, I will ask the moderators to delete the previous one.


My route planning for this trip was minimal and I only booked the first night (Portland, Oregon) and last night (Baltimore, Maryland) in advance. The rest of the trip was planned on a day-to-day basis. There were only three places that I really wanted to see or visit:
• Mt Rainier

  • Yellowstone National Park, and
  • Mt Rushmore.
The rest would be a bonus… and there were plenty of surprises along the way!
September/October was chosen for two reasons:

1. The daily temperatures would be ideal for me when it comes to full ATGATT motorcycle riding, meaning temperatures of 15 degrees Celsius or lower. Going over the higher mountain peaks, the temperature occasionally dropped to about 3 degrees Celsius (37°F) but it was never uncomfortable (thanks to heated grips, of course…)

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2. “Fall” with the associated change in colours in the forests, was something that I always wanted to experience. On a bike trip, of course, you do not only see, you also experience with all the senses: sounds, smell, changes in temperature, etc. To quote a Dog on this forum: “When you do a motorcycle trip, you are not watching the movie, you are in the movie”. The fall col
ours did not disappoint, especially towards the Eastern side of the US….

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I made the decision to fly with my helmet, boots, jacket, and GPS just in case my luggage went in a different direction. Since I would be travelling alone for most of the trip, I also carried some basic tools, such as a tyre repair kit, a compressor, duct tape, etc. This made packing and staying within the airline’s baggage weight limitations quite a challenge.

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Trip Overview and basic stats:

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According to Google maps the most direct route from Portland to Maryland is 4,520km long. But my thinking was almost as primitive as a student that argues that “the more beer he drinks while it is on special, the more he saves”. Thus my (primitive?) biker mind argued: “The longer the route, the better my R/km rental metric will be…”.

The actual GPS route that I followed was plotted onto Google earth and in the end, I managed to stretch the 4,530km to 7,986km….

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As a general disclaimer to this ride report I must say that this was by no means a “tough adventure riding trip”, but rather a “scenic trip”. I did take the occasional dirt road but 99% of the trip was on good quality tarred roads.

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The pictures were taken with my trusted Olympus TG2 compact camera. (This is the type of camera that Johan Bakkes refers to as a “Kiekiekakker”). A small number of pictures were taken with my iPhone but I found the Olympus to be perfect. Most of the shots were taken from the seat of my bike and I now have a tremendous amount of respect for guys willing to travel with a proper SLR and tripod!
I saw some familiar faces along the way…

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And met some really interesting people….

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Introduction: (Continued)

Confirmed that Elvis is still alive (for those non-believers out there!!!)

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Experienced some great motorcycle passes….

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And what is a trip without taking plenty of selfies….

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Day-by-Day detail:
Days 7 and 8 (Missoula to West Yellowstone and on to Cody) were the two longest consecutive rides in terms of time on the road. Day 8 was 100km shorter than Day 7 but took an hour longer, resulting in almost 10 hours in the saddle. The reasons for this I will explain later, but suffice to say that if I never, never-never-ever see a Bison again in my life, it will be too soon….

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Day 0: Cape Town–London-Washington DC-Chicago-Portland

Travelling with my IXS bike jacket, helmet and boots (and a hefty supply of Karoo Foot Powder :) it can get a bit uncomfortable. Especially when leaving Cape Town with temperatures close to 30 degrees Celsius. I chose my SIDI Adventure boots for two reasons: 1. They are very comfortable, and 2. the Gore-Tex is waterproof, which I was sure I was going to need along the way. “Comfortable” is however, a relative concept when spending 39-hours in the air and on airports….


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I was really excited about the trip and my parting words to Elmarie were, “If this ‘plane falls before I get to Portland, you can tell everybody at the funeral that I will really be "de-moer-in…”
Transferring from London onto the Washington flight, there was a large group of students with sweaters and T-shirts that read, “Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups”. No-no, come on, Dogs…. the sweaters were blue, ….. no berets either

Crossing the Atlantic….

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The A-380 is a fantastic piece of machinery, but, oh, the transit between terminals on Washington Dulles has always been a pain for me. It took about two hours to get through customs and immigration, which is not unusual. However, stripping down your biker jacket and boots a couple of times can be a real test of character. J It was rather ironic that after all the commotion of checking in my luggage, going through security, and another bus ride, when I departed 3 hours later from the gate right next to where I got off the A380…

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Leaving Washington DC, on Southwest Airlines, I took a seat right in the back. My jacket and boots quickly occupied the empty seats next to me. The young family in the row in front of me had a great time before take-off. Through the window, I could see the thunderstorm brewing outside… Klein “Mary-Lou” wat voor my sit verloor haar sin vir humor soos die vlieenier ons deur die wolke beur. Sy hou duidelik nie baie van die turbulensie nie en kots ‘n sierlike boog.…. Ek wonder of ek nie maar liewer weer my Gore-Tex boots moet aantrek nie 😊

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Clearing the heavy clouds, and on the way, next stop: Chicago Midway….

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A bird’s eye view of the approach into Chicago….. I think to myself that any Free State farmer would be willing to donate a couple of Hilux bakkies (the bank has probably already claimed other parts of the anatomy as part of surety…) to get the rain that these guys are getting. Especially given the severe drought that we are experiencing leading into the Maize planting season of 2015…

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The day is starting to get very long and I am in desperate need of a caffeine fix. I have to stay awake for another couple of hours to ensure that I get my biological clock tuned onto Pacific Standard Time. It is getting hard though. When it comes to American coffee I always remember the warning that a French guy gave me many years ago. He reckoned that the danger of having sex on a small boat is similar to drinking American Coffee. According to him: “Both are f@cking too close to water…. “
Luckily a Starbucks is never too far away…

So when I order coffee at Starbucks or anywhere else, I use the alias "Floyd" since every time they ask my name, it goes something like this: What is your name? Jabus. They briefly touch the cup, then pause, consider for a bit, and then stare at me blankly. I repeat myself, and they begin writing "Ya…" before I stop them. Allow me to spell it for you. Then they go (squeak-squeek) Ya and look at me. Their eyes are slightly larger. I start J.A.B. No, not "V" , "B". Then they go, "Ya Jav... Jab..." So my cup usually looks like a botched tattoo, and I just say, "Fuckit, my name is Floyd, just write FLOYD like in Floyd Maywheather!!"

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There were lots of firefighting volunteers waiting for open seats on the plane to Portland. (Bushfires are running havoc on the west coast of the US). I’m tired and very relieved when several families volunteer to take up Southwest Airline’s offer for taking a later flight. Just before I get on the plane Elmarie sends a text message breaking the news of the Japanese Tsunami that hit South African Rugby. She must be trying to pull a fast one on me for leaving her at home for 3 weeks, is the only way I can make sense of the message….


The flight is filled to the max and I have to keep my boots on…… I’ll just have to use a heavy hand on the Karoo Foot Powder tonight, which is all that goes through my mind. I’ve now been awake for more than 30 hours and am struggling to keep my eyes open……

Getting off in Portland I’m happy to be re-united with my (overweight) luggage.

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While waiting for the hotel shuttle, a young guy and his girlfriend walked up to me…. “You are doing a bike trip?” As I explain my trip, he gets so excited and tells his girlfriend “We must do this…”. This would be a first of many encounters with fellow enthusiastic bikers….

Arriving at the hotel at 11pm, I’m tired but excited. First things first, I must unpack my big suitcase, phone FedEx to arrange for it to be collected and delivered to the Hotel in Baltimore. Then phone the hotel in Baltimore and tell them that my bags will arrive several days before I am in town… This takes some explaining and I make a point of getting the names of the people I’m talking to, as well as the name and e-mail address of the Hotel Manager.

Part of my evening routine is to check possible routes for the next day on Google Maps and then check the weather forecast for these routes on YR.no. YR predicts some rain clouds rolling north along the coastline. Okay that puts an end to my plans of heading straight for the West towards Seaside and then following 101 to Aberdeen, which looks like an easy enough ride for Day 1. I alter my plan and decide to go North on 5, then swing East on 30 and link up with 101 at Astoria. That way, I will miss most of the rain and only get some in the late afternoon. Great, now I only must charge all the electronics and hope that my trusted Garmin 276 GPS, a.k.a. “Putin” will get me to Astoria.
 
So when I order coffee at Starbucks or anywhere else, I use the alias "Floyd" since every time they ask my name, it goes something like this: What is your name? Jabus. They briefly touch the cup, then pause, consider for a bit, and then stare at me blankly. I repeat myself, and they begin writing "Ya…" before I stop them. Allow me to spell it for you. Then they go (squeak-squeek) Ya and look at me. Their eyes are slightly larger. I start J.A.B. No, not "V" , "B". Then they go, "Ya Jav... Jab..." So my cup usually looks like a botched tattoo, and I just say, "Fuckit, my name is Floyd, just write FLOYD like in Floyd Maywheather!!"

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Thanks Jabus I am enjoying your RR . I love America :love:

I relate to your name, no one could get my name so when my one English friend looked at me and shrieked you look just like our friend Sue, I became Sue. It didn't matter how many times I tried to change it the name stuck and my English friends still call me Sue to this day, 30 years later. And we still talk almost every day. 🤣🤣

It did make it easier when you play pool, as you have to write your name on the board , and Sue is just so easy.

Looking forward to the rest of your trip Floyd, regards, Sue. 😂
 
Thanks Jabus I am enjoying your RR . I love America :love:

I relate to your name, no one could get my name so when my one English friend looked at me and shrieked you look just like our friend Sue, I became Sue. It didn't matter how many times I tried to change it the name stuck and my English friends still call me Sue to this day, 30 years later. And we still talk almost every day. 🤣🤣

It did make it easier when you play pool, as you have to write your name on the board , and Sue is just so easy.

Looking forward to the rest of your trip Floyd, regards, Sue. 😂
Thanks for the comment Sue :) I can just imagine Elon Musk's son ordering a coffee and having to spell X Æ A-12
 
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Day 1: Portland to Aberdeen

Route:
Heading North on 5, West on 30 to Astoria and then follow 101 to Aberdeen.

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I’m ready to hit the bed when my biological clock starts to give signals that it is getting ready to wake up again…. Okay, for this I always carry enough Dormicums. Problem solved. When my alarm goes off at 6am I have no idea where I am…. I do some sleep walking and wake up midway through the 20-minute shower…
I head down to the lobby for a quick breakfast, deliver my bag with the FedEx instructions at reception, open the Uber App and within a couple of minutes I’m on my way to EagleRider to collect the rental bike. I’ve marked EagleRider as a waypoint on my GPS before I left SA and quickly confirm that the Uber driver is heading in the right direction.
A trip must start somewhere…. Portland is just not distinct enough for an epic trip like this. I explain to the Uber driver that my plan is to head North on 101 to Neah Bay. There is a puzzled look on his face when he said, “Why do you wanna go there?” This confirms that that this is a good plan because this kind of response normally tells me that it is not a tourist trap.

As I get out of the Uber car I immediately notice that the GS standing in front of the shop is an LC model. I am immediately irritated. One week before the trip, I double-checked with the third party through whom I arranged the rental to see whether or not it was an air cooled or liquid cooled model. They confirmed that it was indeed an AC model. The reason why I inquired about the model is simply because the Touratech bag full of tools that I brought with me fits neatly in the place of the AC’s pillion seat. This is not a big issue as long as my “FedEx bags” are still at the hotel,. Then I can repack my bags and change my packing configuration. No big deal I, try to calm myself.

I wait while another customer, Bob, finalizes all his paperwork and familiarises himself with a massive (>420kg) Indian Roadmaster. He takes the bike for a short drive through the parking area and unfortunately drops the bike. In his nervous frenzy, he doesn’t take his hand off the throttle and with the Indian lying on one of his crash bars, he makes a perfect donut on the tar! Bob’s ego and confidence are dented and he decides to take a smaller bike. His friend (John “Rowdy” Oxley) hands me his business card and says, “If you have any trouble or need some help on your trip, give me a call and I will ask one of my guys to assist….” This would be the first of many encounters with fellow bikers offering help or even a place to stay.
“Rowdy” and his friend, Bob, just before Bob made an impressive donut!

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The paperwork is finished very efficiently and I’m ready to head back to the hotel.
We rent dreams…. Indeed!

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The layout of the GS was familiar to me, the only real difference was the keyless ignition. I really got used to this and think it is a great feature. The cruise control is also new to me, but once you get used to it, it is very handy, not only on the open roads but especially when entering speed restricted areas in small towns.

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The GS has a slightly bigger aftermarket screen, which is a bit floppy, but it did the job perfectly. (Notice the Enduristan bag, @Chrisl ? :) )

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The GS is also fitted with crash bars and a footrest. The latter was handy to hang the helmet. 😊

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Switching from 5 onto 30 I crossed the Columbia River at the Lewis and Clark Bridge. A lot of the roads that I will take over the next two weeks follows the famous Lewis and Clark route.

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A Series I Landy is a rare sight in the US, so I just had to stop and pay my respects to the old lady.


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Day 1: Portland to Aberdeen (continued)

Astoria is a beautiful city at the mouth of the mighty Columbia River. The rain clouds are building fast and I obey my own “10 minute” motorbike rule by pulling over earlier rather than later to change into my rain gear.

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I cross the quaint wooden bridge at Pier 39 and start the cumbersome process to get into the one-piece rain suit. The Columbia River is massive, just look at the tanker in the background to get an idea of the scale. (Some free advertising for the Flying Brick bag, @zebra.


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The bike (or is it the bag? 😊) attracts a lot of attention…

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Just after crossing the equally impressive (6.6km long!!!) Astoria-Megler Bridge, it starts to rain. Motorcycle riding in the rain is great, and I enjoy it (provided that you have proper gear, of course).
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Checking into the hotel in Astoria early in the evening with a room on the ground floor (or “1st floor” in the US) I have the ideal parking spot in front of the room. This makes packing and unpacking a breeze.

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“Putin’s” trip computer summarizes the perfect first day of riding…

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As a way of sharing my experiences with my wife, I wrote her a couple of short stories while on the trip. Some are funny, some are sad, and others just describe what I saw on a particular day. Below is one that I wrote about checking into the Motel in Aberdeen on Day 1.

“Hmmm”

Ek glo mens kan in iemand se oë sien of daar intelligente lewe in die skedel skuil. Dit is vanaand maar net weer bevestig…
Die dalende rand (of kom ons wees positief, die sterker wordende dollar) het my angsvlakke laat begin styg en ek kies die goedkoopste hotel wat ek op Hotels.com kon kry. $45/nag klink vir my na ‘n winskoop. “Dit kan nie so sleg wees nie” praat ek myself moed in terwyl ek die cvv nommer van my kredietkaart intik…

Die neonteken voor die Motel toon tekens van ernstige verweer (sommige van die letters is weg, tensy die spesiale aanbod dalk net vir mense met disleksie is…… ). Die teken kondig ook met trots aan “NEW BEDS”. Nuwe (of nuwerige) beddens is min of meer wat mens van ‘n hotel verwag, dink ek by myself en sien dit dus nie as ‘n “unique selling point” nie.…

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Met die instrapslag by die Travellodge in Aberdeen word die ontvangsdame se oosterse ogies koelrond. Miskien is dit maar net my heldergeel reënpakkie wat haar verwar, maak ek dit af. Aberdeen is my pittstop oppad na Neah Bay. Die ontvangsdame is wat Cesar Milan sal beskryf as “a low energy dog”. Sy beweeg stadig. Sy dink stadig. Sy praat stadig. Sy begin elke sin met “Hmmm..”

“Good evening. I’m checking in. My surname is Wessels” begin ek.

“Hmmm…., Mr Veeesels” sê sy en sy kliek ‘n paar keer met haar muis terwyl sy na die rekenaarskerm kyk.

“That’s correct” sê ek.

“Hmmm… Single room. One bed. Smoking.”

“Non-smoking” Help ek haar reg.

“Hmmm…” sê sy, druk haar bril met die tweede kneukel van haar linker wysvinger hoër op haar neus. Daar is al ‘n vetterige blindekol op haar bril wat beteken dat sy dit gereeld doen.

“Hmmm… Single room. One bed. Non-Smoking.”

“Correct”.

”Hmmm…, would you prefer first floor or second floor?”

Ek kyk by die venster uit en sien dit is ‘n dubbelverdieping gebou. Ek sal graag op die grondvloer wil bly, dit maak die af- en opsaal net soveel makliker.

“Do you have something available on the ground floor?” probeer ek.

“Hmmm….” sê sy en begin voor. ”Would you prefer first floor or …” ek val haar in die rede.

“1st floor would be perfect, thanks.” Sy dring egter daarop aan om haar sin klaar te maak
“Hmmm…… would you prefer first floor or second floor?”

“1st”

“Hmmm…. Single room. One bed. Non-Smoking, First Floor”

Ten spyte van die lang dag en ‘n biologiese klok wat nog op Afrika tyd is behou ek my sin vir humor.

“That’s correct”

“Hmmm…. can I have your credit card and ID?”

“I can’t remember which credit card I used when I made the reservation. Can you perhaps see if it was a Visa or MasterCard?”

Die uitdrukking in haar oë herinner my aan my GPS wanneer hy die sein verloor… ‘n Tipe van ‘n “mental loadshedding”….
Sy beweeg haar muis vining heen en weer…

“Hmmm, I cannot see which card….”

Ek pluk my MasterCard uit en gee dit vir haar. Sy gee die kaart net ‘n vinnige kyk en gee dit terug.

Ek haal my SA lisensiekaart uit en gee dit vir haar.

Haar oosterse ogies vernou verder en hou die kaart amper teen haar neus. Sy bestudeer elke letter. “Hmmm….” Sê sy en draai die kaarttjie om. Selfde storie.

“Hmmm….” Sê sy
.
“Hummmmmmm..” antwoord ek

“Hmmm, I cannot see your address on the card” sê sy.

“I don’t think my address is on that card”

“Hmmmm…”

“I’m from Africa, we don’t have streets….” Toets ek haar.

[Beep-beep. Beep-beep….. Lost satellite reception… ] sê haar oë maar sy herstel na ‘n wyle..

“Hmmm…, you’re from Africa. Okay” en kliek haar muis ‘n paar keer en sit my ID kaartjie ingedagte in haar mond. Kliek nog ‘n paar keer met die muis…..

“Please don’t swallow my card” sê ek, maar sy ignoreer my.

“Hmmmm…. Single room. One bed. Non-Smoking, First Floor, Room #117” sê sy deur haar stywe lippe.

Ek knik net my kop. Ek hou my ID kaartjie dop soos sy dit op-en-af, op-en-af tussen haar lippe beweeg.

“Hmmmm….. Single room. One bed. Non-Smoking, First Floor, Room #117, $45/night” sê sy selfondaan en gee die kaartjie vir my terug. Ek vat hom versigtig en vryf hom teen my reënbaadjie skoon. Ek wil nog vra hoe laat ontbyt is, wat die WiFi kode is, maar ek bedink myself.

Die volgende oggend ry ek “Himm, Hmmm, Huummm, Huuuuum….” daar weg….
 
Day 2: Portland to Port Angeles (via Neah Bay)

Route:
101 North then onto 113 and west on 112 to Neah Bay. East along 112, joining 101 to Port Angeles. Hurricane Ridge Rd into Olympic National Park and back to Port Angeles.

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101 winds through the Olympic National forest and at times the trees are so dense that “Putin” loses his bearings.

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This was the only stretch of the route where I saw a lot of adventure type bikes. Mostly driving South on 101 which I assume is a popular route for touring bikes from Canada taking the coastal route down South…..

Kalaloch offers a beautiful view over the ocean. There are a couple of beautiful campgrounds along this route. However, most of them seemed to be closed for the winter period (starting in September?).

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Some interesting places to stop along the road (note the “Brutal” Basset on a chain guarding the yard). Are you a Chevy or a Ford man?

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Following 112 to Neah Bay with the forest on the left and the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the right which has several picnic sites (and not a lot of traffic).

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One of the secluded little beaches along 112 where you can sit, meditate, smoke a cigar... or just eat your bloody can of dry Tuna! 😊

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Neah Bay has a population of roughly 800 of which the majority is Native Americans.

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The Makah Museum is definitely worth a visit.

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The view from Neah Bay across the Strait of Juan de Fuca

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Day 2: Portland to Port Angeles (via Neah Bay) (continued)


A popular stop for bikers in Joyce is the Blackberry Café.

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And I can recommend the “Blackberry Barbeque Burger”

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Die middagskof se kelner meld aan vir diens toe ek so halfpad deur my burger is. Hy wil motorfietse gesels en vertel hoe hy onlangs sy Honda XR250 afgeskryf het. Hy vertel ook dat sy vriend, 'n brandweerman op die naburige dorp, ook 'n fiets het soos die een wat ek huur. Hy beaam dit met "Yes, those G-fives are mighty nice bikes". Ek grinnik en dink by myself "Boeta 'n G5 is nie 'n fiets nie, waar ek vandaan kom is dit 'n moerse groot kanon!" :)

After checking into the hotel in Port Angeles I decided to ride Hurricane Ridge Road into Olympic National Park. Wow, what a beautiful road which offers some exceptional scenery! The road is in excellent condition and passes through a series of tunnels to reach the top of the mountain.

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Eight hours and 276 miles for the day…..

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Day 3: Port Angeles-to-Mt Rainier/Ashford

Route: 101 East and then south 101.

Leaving 101 and joining 5 past Olympia before swinging onto 512 and then south onto 7. At Elbe take 706 towards Ashford, from where it is a short drive on Paradise Rd into Mt Rainier National Park.

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When planning my trip, I look at points of interest along the way. Boeing’s Everett Factory is north of Seattle and definitely worth a visit. I do, however, notice that China’s President Xi is in town and will also visit the factory tomorrow. … I reckon that a guy in a helmet and full body armor may just attract a little attention from the strong security presence….. Okay then I will give that one a miss…
This morning, I quickly realized the benefits of riding with an adventure helmet. Driving east (this is what I will do for most of my trip) with the early morning sun in the eyes can be a challenge and the peak definitely provides some protection.
Swinging south on 101 and entering the lake and channel areas, the road becomes quite misty and makes for slow and careful riding.

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Route 101 follows Hood Canal into Hoodsport. From Hoodsport I was tempted to take a detour on 119 to Lake Cushman but in the end, I decided to push on south.

By now, I am completely mesmerized by the beauty and vastness of the forests. I do not consider my sense of smell to be highly developed, but even for me, it is easy to pick up how it changes as I make my way through the forest. One section can be “musty” and “earthy”, and then it changes to “sweetish-maple-and-honey-ish” smell. And everything in-between…. Later in the trip, I would also learn to recognize the district smell of “pensmis” long before I reached the actual roadkill.

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Some of the properties had very traditional gates at their entrances. Others had very innovative ways of marking their territory…

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Hoodsport Coffee Company is worth a pit stop…

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National Park Highway (Hwy 7) passes Alder Lake and Elbe before passing Ashford. From here, you can see Mt Rainier as the road winds through the forested areas.

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Day 3: Port Angeles-to-Mt Rainier/Ashford (continued)

Mt Rainier plays hide-and-seek and every time I notice a good view and want to stop to take a picture, it disappears behind the trees… This just builds my excitement to see her in full glory!

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I stayed over at the Gateway Inn which is right at the entrance of Mt Rainier. Entrance fee to the Park is $10 and valid for 7 days.

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Along the way I noticed various different spellings of “Mt Rainier”, sometimes the different spellings (Ranier vs Rainier) appeared on the same sign. It seems as if “Rainier” is the correct one…

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There are several camping sites on Mt Rainier, and if I ever have the chance again, I will definitely stay in the park for a prolonged period of time. There are several hiking routes, and the scenery is magnificent.

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I took a late afternoon ride into the park, where 706 changes to an aptly named “Paradise Road.”

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Mt. Rainier is every bit as beautiful as I imagined it to be. Stopping at the Sunrise visitor center, I sit in awe as the low hanging clouds move in and out, constantly changing the view.

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The wildflowers and fall colors add to the spectacular view.

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Five hours 22 minutes and 235miles in the saddle… I buy a gallon of full cream milk (small containers of milk are expensive and hard to find), cheese and salami and go to bed knowing that I have ticked off the first of the items on my “To See” list. Mt Rainier did not disappoint, and I will have another chance tomorrow morning to see her in the early morning light….

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Day4: Ashford to Moses Lake

Route:
Paradise Road to Stevens Canyon Road past Lake Louise. North on 123 and then East on 410 linking up with 12 all the way to Yakima. Canyon Rd (821) north to 90E to Moses Lake.

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The temperature drops to 3 degrees Celsius as I head up Paradise Road but my early morning ride was rewarded with a totally different view of the mountain. I am alone in the parking area and for half an hour I have the mountain all to myself. Heaven!

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Passing Reflection Lakes and Lake Louise….

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Passing Reflection Lakes and Lake Louise….

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Hwy 410 (Chinnook pass)

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Any hunter will recognize the characteristic smell of “pensmis” and I quickly learned that one becomes aware of a roadkill long before you actually see the evidence….

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There was a dramatic change in scenery as I passed through Yakima and followed 821 (Valley Rd) North. The North American forest turned into an arid landscape within a couple of miles.

Was I abducted by aliens and dropped in Namibia?

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Day4: Ashford to Moses Lake (continued)

The I90 cross the Columbia River (Wanapum Lake) at Vantage and I stopped at the Wild Horse Monument. Namibia, Wild Horses, Aus? My body was in one part of the world and my mind and heart in another…..

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The brass plaque at the Wild Horse Monument disappeared. Not only in Africa do they pinch brass and copper. : The “gekke en dwase” has made their marks where the brass plate used to be. I make a mental note to pack my black permanent marker pen on the next trip…


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Awesome
Looking forward to the next installment

I have been to Mt Rainier and the Yakima surrounds every year for the last 10 (Business), this year might be a first to not go.
(Was in California in April instead)
 
Awesome
Looking forward to the next installment

I have been to Mt Rainier and the Yakima surrounds every year for the last 10 (Business), this year might be a first to not go.
(Was in California in April instead)
Yes Dieter, that Mountain has quite a special atmosphere
 
Day 5: Moses Lake to Walla Walla

Route:
Moses Lake to Warden on 17 and 170 to Lind to Washtucna on 261 to Palouse Falls, Starbuck on 261 to Dayton on 12 and on to Walla Walla.

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Tonight, I will meet up with an American friend, Vaughn, in Walla Walla. He will pick up a rental bike in Portland and take a short-cut to Walla Walla. We will ride together and meet his wife in Minneapolis.

This is farming area and I see several potato and onion carrying trucks on the way. There are several depots along the way where the massive trucks off-load/store their produce. The planting and harvesting process is fully mechanised and manual labour is a rare sight.


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I take a couple of dirt roads and meet a couple of the potato/onion trucks head-on; they are clearly not used to bikers…


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I devise a simple way of keeping my planned route (and later in the tour, also toll fees) within sight on the handle bars by using two Neodymium magnets. Even in the strongest crosswinds I didn’t lose my marbles… Patent pending 😊


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The road passed through wheat fields and scenery resembled the Swartland and at times I almost expected a “Welkom in Malmesbury” sign. The only real difference between these roads and the ones in SA is that you do not see pedestrians walking by the side of the road…


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The small agricultural communities and towns consisted mainly of grain silos (“grain elevators”). It could just as well be Groenebloem, Viljoenskroon or Bothaville!

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Het hulle die draad gesteel?

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Day 5: Moses Lake to Walla Walla (continued)


Harvested wheat fields….

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Not only did the scenery remind me of home, this deserted (clearly stolen) Mazda RX8 was driven until it ran out of gas (I assume) and then they took the wheels as souvenirs (I’m sure) 😊


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A short stretch of gravel road to Palouse Falls


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Palouse Falls reminds me of The Big Hole in Kimberley.

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Campsite at Palouse Falls.

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An impressive Railroad Bridge crossing at the confluence of the Palouse River and Snake Rivers.

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