rrichardson86
Race Dog
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 1,013
- Reaction score
- 0
- Bike
- BMW R80GS
I told someone at work about my plan to ride 4500 kilometers through South Africa in two weeks. She looked at me and first said “You’re mad” and followed up by saying “A trip like that must change a person.” Yes, yes it does.
Whilst most people early Christmas Eve were preparing the last minute treats for Santa and the onslaught of long lost relatives, who squash your cheeks and are all too liberal with their comments on how you have grown both vertically and horizontally, I was stuffing in the last of my emergency kit into my panniers and making sure that the nuts on the front tyre of my 32 year old BMW R80 G/S, were firmly fastened (I have had the odd pleasure of experiencing a calliper divorce itself from my forks and into the spokes) The destination- Sani Backpackers Lodge- on the border of the Lesotho and nestled in the beautiful Drakensberg mountains. The route...well an unplanned combination of gravel and tar covering some 600 kilometers, an easy day to get into the trip.
I had recently purchased a Drift Cam from Action Gear and after doing the inaugural trip introduction to my imaginary viewers it was time to hit the road. As I hit the open road somewhere outside Deneysville I could feel the bike begin to twitch…she knew we were on holiday and without adieu I opened up to be greeted by 32 years of reliable German power. The trip had begun.
The day trip took me via some areas I had never been before, namely the road that passes by the resort of little Switzerland. Now if you haven’t done this road, I would recommend it, but with one qualification, the road that goes past the Sterkfontein Dam is a nightmare. The product of what I can only imagine is a combination of heavy trucks, poor maintenance and some evil plan of the Underworld, the road is neither tar more gravel but a playground full of marbles and terrifying drivers. But do not let that deter you, the view as you enter the Drakensburg is worth every bit of it.
The accommodation for the night was at the foot of the Sani Pass which I decided to access via the Lotheni Road. This road is the stuff of legends and should not be missed if you’re in the area. My ride was made slightly more interesting by a massive downpour and hail. I can only liken the experience to a paintball massage. The Sani Pass backpackers was a welcome sight after about 8 hours of riding and would recommend staying there if you’re looking for good accommodation within a budget. Good food, good bed, and an awesome view across into the Drakensburg.
Accommodation- Sani Backpackers 7/10
My equipment
All packed the night before
Little Switzerland entering the Drakensberg
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/847/847715538078d680034e764264113ee5)
Paintball Shower and Lotheni Road
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/22f/22f1c5678b2b4a7c7860e1258ead23f8)
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/16d/16d2811e27b8afce9da2fa2e5d50c3f8)
The result of a heavy load and corrugations
Eastern Cape
“You’re going where?”- This is the standard response I got when I told people of my initial destination in the East Cape. Cathcart. A town which holds a very special place in my heart. Home. Whilst the town does not offer much in the way of tourist attractions it does offer some of the best riding in the country. Unfortunately this year it was just to be a stay over whilst I picked up my folks and headed down to another magical part of this undiscovered province.
Have you been to Graaff-Reniet? If not, put it on your destination list for this year. This is the Stellenbosch of the Klein Karoo. A town which is steeped in history and is slowly growing into a premium tourist destination. A couple of the attractions I visited whilst here were the Camdeboo Nature Reserve and the Valley of Desolation. This Valley (actually nestled on top of a huge mountain) is a sight to be behold and allows you uninterrupted views of the Karoo. If you haven’t been to the Owl House in Nieu Bathesda then you can go. Personally I felt like I was walking in the mind of some very disturbed serial killer- but hey to each their own!
Accommodation: Profcon Self Catering Resort 8/10- comfortable and air-conditioned which welcomed in summer!
Recommended eatery: Artitude Café and Coffee Roastery
Valley of Desolation
Camdeboo National Parks
Owl House-Weird place of nightmares
After a bit of relaxing from riding in Graaf Reniet, we headed north east to Sutherland. This is where the trip started to get interesting!
We had decided that we would take the gravel road via Fraserburg to Sutherland in order to avoid the Xmas/New Years’s traffic, which had increased substantially with each day of the trip. There’s a certain feeling one gets (well I get when) when your front tyre first hits true gravel on a long trip. It’s the sort of feeling that makes your inner caveman roar and the hairs on your neck stand up. It is usually followed by the word F%#K as you hit your first sand patch or savage corrugation at speed! The road between Beaufort West and Fraserburg takes you through a combination of arid vast nothingness and one or two passes along the way. Make sure you do the Molteno Pass if you’re heading this way. I’ve always been hit by how beautiful the Karoo is and this was no exception. Some hints: If you are doing this route, first make sure that your bike is able to cover the distance. My old Airhead was chewing through petrol and thankfully we had spare 5 litre in the bakkie. Also if you going this way on a Sunday, be aware that Fraserburg’s petrol stations are often closed, especially during the festive season.
The accommodation in Sutherland was comfortable although a bit strange. Usually when one pays R1500 a night for a house you expect to at least have the place to yourself. The Kambro setup was one house with two rooms and a shared communal area and no braai area. Not ideal when you’ve been wanting to braai the whole day and also just relax on the couch. Anyway we headed up to the Sutherland hotel which was a step back into the 1970s with wooden wall panelling and the smell of mothballs. The food was good and well priced and it’s worth a visit if you just want to eat and crash afterwards.
Accommodation- Kambro- 6/10. Comfortable rooms but not keen on the sharing thing. Jurg and his wife were very friendly though and the breakfast was a true Karoo farmstyle treat. Camp site also looks well kept and clean.
Running out of petrol
Half the Karoo on my face
Old and new
On any long trip, you always have that “one” day. The day that is the most memorable, when the weather is perfect, the cares are few and the riding is just a dream. The day from Sutherland to Langebaan was that day. I had always read about the Tankwa Karoo and its amazing desolation and beauty. I’ve done many trips around South Africa but this region has got to be one of my top 5 favourite places. To begin with we didn’t actually have any intention of going to the Tankwa Karoo, it was the result of an early wrong turn and myself and my dad looking for two completely different landmarks. Him, one of those weird Karoo beehives and me, a white Karoo house. Both of which in hindsight were stupid, because there are literally tons of them everywhere! Anyway I will always be thankful for that wrong turn.
Now if you haven’t done any riding in the Karoo area, take a moment to clear your mind of every thought and image until there is nothingness. That’s the Tankwa Karoo. Nothing. One or two sheep, a lizard and a suspicious vulture who kept circling- most likely hoping for the chance to get its next meal. When one is able to actually see the curvature of the earth then you know there’s nothing out there! The roads were a dream, having been recently graded which allowed us to cruise happily at 100 to 110km/h. That being said, be very careful of the odd sandpit and pothole. An awesome stop along the way, well the only stop, is the Tankwa Karoo Padstal. This little oasis is run by a pleasant chap named Hein in his fifties with dreadlocks. Hein sits on his stoep, pipe in hand, waiting for company and enjoying the absolute silence of his surrounds. It was this fine gentleman who recommended that instead of going straight to Ceres, we turn off and take the Katbakkies Pass. This became my favourite pass in South Africa. If anyone sees him please shake his hand and say thank you from me.
The pass is a combination of tar and gravel with tar on the really epic twisties. The pass must have been made by a mad genius time machine future biker in the early 1900s (or whenever it was built) as it is truly a gift from above. After such an awesome thrilling experience even the pass down into Ceres was rather mundane. I certainly count myself lucky to have had this touch of the Tankwa.
The start, fuelling up at the local shell
People of Sutherland, ala 1950s
That feeling you get as you stand, look up and forget the world
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/228/228405015259c518568499f62581b620)
Best wrong turn ever
Follow the leader
Tankwa Karoo Padstal
Hein of the Karoo
Karretjie People of the Tankwa
Top of Katbakkies Pass
A braai to end the 7 hour day
After a few days spent relaxing in Langebaan, braaing up a storm and catching up with the whole family, it was time to head back up to the Eastern Cape for a few more days of relaxation and then the final leg to Johannesburg. The route was up the R62, a personal favourite of mine. There were a few highlights namely Baines Kloof Pass and trying to locate a fuel issue that kept stealing my bike's thunder. Fortunately with mechanical bikes such an Airhead, it is usually only an inline filter that needs replacing. After locating the problem and replacing the spark plugs and fuel filter we were off again. Our destination was the Red Stone Hills Valley outside Oudtshoorn. This valley is not really visible from the road but is well worth a visit, especially around sunset where the light turns hills into blood red temples. We stayed on a traditional Klein Karoo guest farm called Red Stone Hills Holiday Farm. This was my favourite accommodation spot of the trip and I will definitely be going back. The farm consists of 5 or 6 old white washed farm cottages with wooden floors and enormous stoeps. Whilst sipping on a cold beverage enjoying the sunset lighting up the surrounding hills, I could only think to myself what a beautiful country this is!
Accommodation: 10/10
Things to look out for in the Red Stone Hills: A natural red sandstone arc which catches the light at sunset. Don’t leave your viewing spot of the hills until the sun is completely gone, the lower the sun goes the more spectacular it gets.
Langebaan Lagoon Boardwalk
Lagoon
Baines Kloof
My pops and I (60 and still rocking)
The support crew
Red Stone Hills, Oudtshoorn
The last braai of the trip
The last day was a bit of a sad day, as the last of every long trip with your family is, I suppose. It really feels like a case of just putting the head down and getting to your destination. But as we pulled into the driveway of my home in Cathcart, I couldn’t stop but smile across at my pops, my mom and sister and be thankful to have been able to share yet an amazing adventure around our beautiful country with them.
Entering the Langkloof
Home safe
The final highlights.
By the time I had reached Cathcart I had covered roughly 3500kms in 10 days (7 of which were riding and 3 resting). I was pretty tired so I enjoyed just taking in the comforts of home. If you haven’t been to Cathcart, do yourself and chance it (you’re welcome to contact me for some accommodation advice). It’s a sleepy hollow with amazing riding in the surrounding areas. By the time it came for me to leave I had centred myself and was ready to head back to the Big Smoke., After the goodbyes, Bells and I hit the road and headed up to Clarens. The Eastern Free State is one of those areas that deserves a trip report all of its own, as the scenery is outstanding. My accommodation for the night was the Clarens Backpackers. This by far the best value for money accommodation I found on the trip (besides home!). For R199.00 I had my own beehive with a small kitchen, outside bathroom and on the local stream. As I relaxed nursing a dislocated shoulder (the result of a stupid petrol station fall) I had a true sense of serenity and calm. Whilst my trip had come to an end, it had been one of the greatest starts to the year I have ever experienced. Until this year that is
…to be continued in December 2015.
Accommodation- Clarens Backpackers 8/10. Try the Post House for a great T Bone steak.
My beehive for the night
Backpackers Garden
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/3b3/3b36b8a8076b9d3c57009ca747ca817f)
The required Free State sunflower photograph
Stats and Equipment:
Total Mileage: 4508kms
Fuel Used: A lot
Oil used: Twice as much as the fuel
Average riding competency required 4/10 (6/10 for gravel roads)
Iron Butt Rating: 11/10 (relieved by Airhawk seat, laugh all you want)
Camera: Drift Ghost HD and Nikon Coolpix (some photos taken by family used Nikon DSLR)
What I wouldnt have taken: Two heavy duty inner tubes (bit of an overkill)
The route:
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/ecd/ecd845cf3c46027efa38d3dcc0bc72cd)
The author
Whilst most people early Christmas Eve were preparing the last minute treats for Santa and the onslaught of long lost relatives, who squash your cheeks and are all too liberal with their comments on how you have grown both vertically and horizontally, I was stuffing in the last of my emergency kit into my panniers and making sure that the nuts on the front tyre of my 32 year old BMW R80 G/S, were firmly fastened (I have had the odd pleasure of experiencing a calliper divorce itself from my forks and into the spokes) The destination- Sani Backpackers Lodge- on the border of the Lesotho and nestled in the beautiful Drakensberg mountains. The route...well an unplanned combination of gravel and tar covering some 600 kilometers, an easy day to get into the trip.
I had recently purchased a Drift Cam from Action Gear and after doing the inaugural trip introduction to my imaginary viewers it was time to hit the road. As I hit the open road somewhere outside Deneysville I could feel the bike begin to twitch…she knew we were on holiday and without adieu I opened up to be greeted by 32 years of reliable German power. The trip had begun.
The day trip took me via some areas I had never been before, namely the road that passes by the resort of little Switzerland. Now if you haven’t done this road, I would recommend it, but with one qualification, the road that goes past the Sterkfontein Dam is a nightmare. The product of what I can only imagine is a combination of heavy trucks, poor maintenance and some evil plan of the Underworld, the road is neither tar more gravel but a playground full of marbles and terrifying drivers. But do not let that deter you, the view as you enter the Drakensburg is worth every bit of it.
The accommodation for the night was at the foot of the Sani Pass which I decided to access via the Lotheni Road. This road is the stuff of legends and should not be missed if you’re in the area. My ride was made slightly more interesting by a massive downpour and hail. I can only liken the experience to a paintball massage. The Sani Pass backpackers was a welcome sight after about 8 hours of riding and would recommend staying there if you’re looking for good accommodation within a budget. Good food, good bed, and an awesome view across into the Drakensburg.
Accommodation- Sani Backpackers 7/10
My equipment
All packed the night before
Little Switzerland entering the Drakensberg
Paintball Shower and Lotheni Road
The result of a heavy load and corrugations
Eastern Cape
“You’re going where?”- This is the standard response I got when I told people of my initial destination in the East Cape. Cathcart. A town which holds a very special place in my heart. Home. Whilst the town does not offer much in the way of tourist attractions it does offer some of the best riding in the country. Unfortunately this year it was just to be a stay over whilst I picked up my folks and headed down to another magical part of this undiscovered province.
Have you been to Graaff-Reniet? If not, put it on your destination list for this year. This is the Stellenbosch of the Klein Karoo. A town which is steeped in history and is slowly growing into a premium tourist destination. A couple of the attractions I visited whilst here were the Camdeboo Nature Reserve and the Valley of Desolation. This Valley (actually nestled on top of a huge mountain) is a sight to be behold and allows you uninterrupted views of the Karoo. If you haven’t been to the Owl House in Nieu Bathesda then you can go. Personally I felt like I was walking in the mind of some very disturbed serial killer- but hey to each their own!
Accommodation: Profcon Self Catering Resort 8/10- comfortable and air-conditioned which welcomed in summer!
Recommended eatery: Artitude Café and Coffee Roastery
Valley of Desolation
Camdeboo National Parks
Owl House-Weird place of nightmares
After a bit of relaxing from riding in Graaf Reniet, we headed north east to Sutherland. This is where the trip started to get interesting!
We had decided that we would take the gravel road via Fraserburg to Sutherland in order to avoid the Xmas/New Years’s traffic, which had increased substantially with each day of the trip. There’s a certain feeling one gets (well I get when) when your front tyre first hits true gravel on a long trip. It’s the sort of feeling that makes your inner caveman roar and the hairs on your neck stand up. It is usually followed by the word F%#K as you hit your first sand patch or savage corrugation at speed! The road between Beaufort West and Fraserburg takes you through a combination of arid vast nothingness and one or two passes along the way. Make sure you do the Molteno Pass if you’re heading this way. I’ve always been hit by how beautiful the Karoo is and this was no exception. Some hints: If you are doing this route, first make sure that your bike is able to cover the distance. My old Airhead was chewing through petrol and thankfully we had spare 5 litre in the bakkie. Also if you going this way on a Sunday, be aware that Fraserburg’s petrol stations are often closed, especially during the festive season.
The accommodation in Sutherland was comfortable although a bit strange. Usually when one pays R1500 a night for a house you expect to at least have the place to yourself. The Kambro setup was one house with two rooms and a shared communal area and no braai area. Not ideal when you’ve been wanting to braai the whole day and also just relax on the couch. Anyway we headed up to the Sutherland hotel which was a step back into the 1970s with wooden wall panelling and the smell of mothballs. The food was good and well priced and it’s worth a visit if you just want to eat and crash afterwards.
Accommodation- Kambro- 6/10. Comfortable rooms but not keen on the sharing thing. Jurg and his wife were very friendly though and the breakfast was a true Karoo farmstyle treat. Camp site also looks well kept and clean.
Running out of petrol
Half the Karoo on my face
Old and new
On any long trip, you always have that “one” day. The day that is the most memorable, when the weather is perfect, the cares are few and the riding is just a dream. The day from Sutherland to Langebaan was that day. I had always read about the Tankwa Karoo and its amazing desolation and beauty. I’ve done many trips around South Africa but this region has got to be one of my top 5 favourite places. To begin with we didn’t actually have any intention of going to the Tankwa Karoo, it was the result of an early wrong turn and myself and my dad looking for two completely different landmarks. Him, one of those weird Karoo beehives and me, a white Karoo house. Both of which in hindsight were stupid, because there are literally tons of them everywhere! Anyway I will always be thankful for that wrong turn.
Now if you haven’t done any riding in the Karoo area, take a moment to clear your mind of every thought and image until there is nothingness. That’s the Tankwa Karoo. Nothing. One or two sheep, a lizard and a suspicious vulture who kept circling- most likely hoping for the chance to get its next meal. When one is able to actually see the curvature of the earth then you know there’s nothing out there! The roads were a dream, having been recently graded which allowed us to cruise happily at 100 to 110km/h. That being said, be very careful of the odd sandpit and pothole. An awesome stop along the way, well the only stop, is the Tankwa Karoo Padstal. This little oasis is run by a pleasant chap named Hein in his fifties with dreadlocks. Hein sits on his stoep, pipe in hand, waiting for company and enjoying the absolute silence of his surrounds. It was this fine gentleman who recommended that instead of going straight to Ceres, we turn off and take the Katbakkies Pass. This became my favourite pass in South Africa. If anyone sees him please shake his hand and say thank you from me.
The pass is a combination of tar and gravel with tar on the really epic twisties. The pass must have been made by a mad genius time machine future biker in the early 1900s (or whenever it was built) as it is truly a gift from above. After such an awesome thrilling experience even the pass down into Ceres was rather mundane. I certainly count myself lucky to have had this touch of the Tankwa.
The start, fuelling up at the local shell
People of Sutherland, ala 1950s
That feeling you get as you stand, look up and forget the world
Best wrong turn ever
Follow the leader
Tankwa Karoo Padstal
Hein of the Karoo
Karretjie People of the Tankwa
Top of Katbakkies Pass
A braai to end the 7 hour day
After a few days spent relaxing in Langebaan, braaing up a storm and catching up with the whole family, it was time to head back up to the Eastern Cape for a few more days of relaxation and then the final leg to Johannesburg. The route was up the R62, a personal favourite of mine. There were a few highlights namely Baines Kloof Pass and trying to locate a fuel issue that kept stealing my bike's thunder. Fortunately with mechanical bikes such an Airhead, it is usually only an inline filter that needs replacing. After locating the problem and replacing the spark plugs and fuel filter we were off again. Our destination was the Red Stone Hills Valley outside Oudtshoorn. This valley is not really visible from the road but is well worth a visit, especially around sunset where the light turns hills into blood red temples. We stayed on a traditional Klein Karoo guest farm called Red Stone Hills Holiday Farm. This was my favourite accommodation spot of the trip and I will definitely be going back. The farm consists of 5 or 6 old white washed farm cottages with wooden floors and enormous stoeps. Whilst sipping on a cold beverage enjoying the sunset lighting up the surrounding hills, I could only think to myself what a beautiful country this is!
Accommodation: 10/10
Things to look out for in the Red Stone Hills: A natural red sandstone arc which catches the light at sunset. Don’t leave your viewing spot of the hills until the sun is completely gone, the lower the sun goes the more spectacular it gets.
Langebaan Lagoon Boardwalk
Lagoon
Baines Kloof
My pops and I (60 and still rocking)
The support crew
Red Stone Hills, Oudtshoorn
The last braai of the trip
The last day was a bit of a sad day, as the last of every long trip with your family is, I suppose. It really feels like a case of just putting the head down and getting to your destination. But as we pulled into the driveway of my home in Cathcart, I couldn’t stop but smile across at my pops, my mom and sister and be thankful to have been able to share yet an amazing adventure around our beautiful country with them.
Entering the Langkloof
Home safe
The final highlights.
By the time I had reached Cathcart I had covered roughly 3500kms in 10 days (7 of which were riding and 3 resting). I was pretty tired so I enjoyed just taking in the comforts of home. If you haven’t been to Cathcart, do yourself and chance it (you’re welcome to contact me for some accommodation advice). It’s a sleepy hollow with amazing riding in the surrounding areas. By the time it came for me to leave I had centred myself and was ready to head back to the Big Smoke., After the goodbyes, Bells and I hit the road and headed up to Clarens. The Eastern Free State is one of those areas that deserves a trip report all of its own, as the scenery is outstanding. My accommodation for the night was the Clarens Backpackers. This by far the best value for money accommodation I found on the trip (besides home!). For R199.00 I had my own beehive with a small kitchen, outside bathroom and on the local stream. As I relaxed nursing a dislocated shoulder (the result of a stupid petrol station fall) I had a true sense of serenity and calm. Whilst my trip had come to an end, it had been one of the greatest starts to the year I have ever experienced. Until this year that is
…to be continued in December 2015. Accommodation- Clarens Backpackers 8/10. Try the Post House for a great T Bone steak.
My beehive for the night
Backpackers Garden
The required Free State sunflower photograph
Stats and Equipment:
Total Mileage: 4508kms
Fuel Used: A lot
Oil used: Twice as much as the fuel
Average riding competency required 4/10 (6/10 for gravel roads)
Iron Butt Rating: 11/10 (relieved by Airhawk seat, laugh all you want)
Camera: Drift Ghost HD and Nikon Coolpix (some photos taken by family used Nikon DSLR)
What I wouldnt have taken: Two heavy duty inner tubes (bit of an overkill)
The route:
The author
