Africa our way !! ( Complete...... or is it? )

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With Martins 12 year relationship back home on a knives edge and my temper high after having to unpack the bike and replace the tube in 35 degree heat we head off into the Mikumi National Park and like a magnet we were drawn towards Dar and the acceptance that that lake Victoria would have to be conquered another day.. It was disappointing but part of what the trip was throwing at us. There is nothing you can do, accept it as part of the experience.

Riding through the park towards Morogoro was a great experience and within an hour we were all smiles again. It is strange how these long trips do that. We were not allowed to take our bikes into the main entrance of the park, as the guide pointed out to us the real threat of being eaten by lions, we tried to explain to him that we had no intention of riding through the park, we only intended to visit the restaurant about 300m away for a drink.. “ no sir, you cannot go in by bike..” but you can walk’ now, ordinarily this would be funny, I think we have a better chance on a bike against lions than walking, but in 30 degree heat and having to carry all our gear, we were not that impressed with the young lad at the gate who was keen to follow policy loud and proud.

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We reached Morogoro a bit late in the day so decided to have a look around, grab some cash at a bank and find a place to camp for the night, without sugar coating it, Morogoro is busy, bustling and at times quite a dirty town. Finding a place to stay proved almost impossible as we rejected place after place. I refused to even stay in the campsite it was so over run and offered no security.

We did at one point enquire at the Morogoro hotel, but it was simply way over our budget, that being said, after a few frustrating hours riding around and after much discussion and debate we found ourselves tucked away in an airconditioned room at the hotel, bikes secure, ahh, it hurt to fork out the moola but in hindsight it was worth it. I picked up my 50th puncture and Martin had picked up a bit of an oil leak which he was keeping an eye on. While unpacking our bikes we noticed the hotel was swarming with police, apparently there was a conference of some sort going on, we were approached by a stern looking fellow escorted by very official looking lads, he was interested in where we were coming from and going to as almost every official seems to be. He turned out to be the minister of police for Tanzania including traffic.. I wasted no time in complaining about the lack of control he seemed to have on the busses that make our taxi’s at home seem asleep. As we relayed our experiences of being forced off the road and dodging overloaded busses overtaking on blind rises ( true story ) we noticed the official looking chap behind the minister ( who turned out to be the traffic chief ) catching a sweat and rightly so. The minister was clearly not impressed that tourists like us were giving his department a red card.

 
The hotel was awesome...

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The next morning I woke up more than a bit broken, the days of riding were tanking it out of me and stiffness was the order of the day. there was nothing like doing some stretched to the local morning fitness show which looked like it was from the 80's

Next stop.. Dar !!

 
FM, sorry, but I have to ask you this...what on earth posessed you to leave home without maps???
No GPS I can understand, but no maps.... ???
 
In reality it not a decision we made upfront. It was just the way it worked out. We made the effort during planning to buy some maps and to try and plan routes but it just did'nt work for us. The maps either did not give us the detail we wanted, they did not show the reality of what was on the ground so I found working with maps proved frustrating.

Some of the guys we met along the way were glued to maps like they were the Bible and I am sure they ended up in better positions than we did at times. We wanted to be directed by local information and to decide on a route as we went. This meant that it was almost impossble to plan more than a day or so in advance and it really did cause some problems with regard to getting fuel etc, it also caused a lot of conflicting information regarding road conditions and security alerts, but for me it was also about interacting with the locals. Whenever we would catch up to some tourists we would look at their map and see where we were and where we were possibly heading so it was not like we never looked at a map. Especially in Northern Mozambique where it became a nightmare.

If we really felt insecure we would take photos of their maps and reference them if need be. The problem with going over such a long distance is detail in maps. Travelling with google maps would have been the best thing ever.
 
That's a fair enough answer - I'm pleased it worked out for you  :thumleft:
But I still would have liked a map just to show the relative locations of towns if a decision needed to be made on which direction to go.
If you were to do a similar trip, would you take maps?
 
Respect!

Leaving home without maps, cell phone etc.. wanting to travel further north when time was against you says one thing, you weren't in a hurry to come home.

Bring it on....

 
letsgofishing said:
That's a fair enough answer - I'm pleased it worked out for you  :thumleft:
But I still would have liked a map just to show the relative locations of towns if a decision needed to be made on which direction to go.
If you were to do a similar trip, would you take maps?

Dude, if I had to do a similar trip I am sure I would do quite a bit differently. I am not sure I would take maps,  like I said there are so many people travelling through Africa, and they all have maps so it is easy to reference if need be. Don't expect to buy maps on route, they just do not exist.

If I had to do a trip like this again I would take lonely planet books, they provide you with source information like health risks, food information, town maps, history and culture information which makes interacting with locals so much easier. I did take the East Africa lonely planet but it covered most of the countries we never got to visit like Uganda and Kenya.. they are well worth the money and the weight.

I will finish up the rr over these holidays, and will post again on the 5th or there about.

Muz


 
Fuzzy Muzzy said:
letsgofishing said:
That's a fair enough answer - I'm pleased it worked out for you  :thumleft:
But I still would have liked a map just to show the relative locations of towns if a decision needed to be made on which direction to go.
If you were to do a similar trip, would you take maps?

Dude, if I had to do a similar trip I am sure I would do quite a bit differently. I am not sure I would take maps,  like I said there are so many people travelling through Africa, and they all have maps so it is easy to reference if need be. Don't expect to buy maps on route, they just do not exist.

If I had to do a trip like this again I would take lonely planet books, they provide you with source information like health risks, food information, town maps, history and culture information which makes interacting with locals so much easier. I did take the East Africa lonely planet but it covered most of the countries we never got to visit like Uganda and Kenya.. they are well worth the money and the weight.

I will finish up the rr over these holidays, and will post again on the 5th or there about.

Muz

Cool FM - looking very forward to the rest!  :thumleft:
 
Just skimmed through it and epic! Will read it later and then talk to you guys about my route up to Malawi! cheers
 
flatty said:
Brilliant rr, looking forward to your next installment.
BTW, looks like you foot/ankle healed OK?

Yeah, it took a while to heal, mainly because I did not really treat it as well as I should have early on, also leaving before it had healed just delayed the healing process. It took about 3 months before I thought it felt ok. Sorry for the delay with this rr, family were down for holidays but I will start it up again from tomorrow.

Muz
 

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