American Southwest loop

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Day 9: Moab to Bluff via Hanksville: (continued)

At the Tamarisk, I spotted an older gentleman with a fully kitted-out Yamaha T7, clearly a seasoned adventurer with stories to tell. He is a solo rider who has been on the road for more than 6 weeks already, wild camping as he go… (With good quality kit: Klim Badlands suit and the rest is Mosko Moto).

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Over breakfast Vaughn shares the reason for his grumpiness, he thinks he is developing a bout of pancreatitis. But don’t worry I have something for it in my bag he consoles me. I hope that the lavish breakfast will help with the cure but not long after we get onto Route 24 leading towards Hanksville we pull over. He pulls out the insulin syringe and gives himself a quadruple shot of insulin and takes another tablet or two. “I must hit this really hard and fast otherwise my trip will be over” he says while lifting his shirt for the injection. He clearly has done this before so I’m confident that he will pull through. “Oh, and there I was, thinking you were just your sarcastic and grumpy self” I say to him. He gives a wry smile and says “Snarky”. I shot him a puzzled look, to which he responded, "Snarky... the word you're searching for is “snarky”." I will have to wait until I get a Wi-Fi signal to look up the meaning this new addition to my vocabulary…

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I take a couple of pics of the desert flowers next to the road. You know he says, this road reminds me of the road between Keetmanshoop and Aus. Yeah, you are right. But there is one key ingredient missing I say. He gives me a puzzled look, and what would that be he asks? You remember when we left Keetmanshoop I pointed them out to you? The African flower you remember? Oh, you can keep your fucking plastic bags. But I keep going… I think I should arrange a container full of plastic bags to be shipped over here and we can come and “plant” them on our next trip. It will spice up the dull scenery a bit I try to convince him.

Just before Hanksville we start to see a couple of sandstone gorges. This would be sign of things to come.

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So, there we were, just about to cross the majestic Colorado River when something on the map caught my eye – Route 276 leading to Bullfrog. "Hey, this could be a fun little detour," I thought to myself, envisioning the extra bit of adventure it promised. The map showed that this detour would reconnect with Route 95 further down the road, towards Blanding. But what really sparked my excitement was the mention of a ferry ride across the Colorado River. "How cool would that be?" I mused, already sold on the idea.

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Eager to suggest this spontaneous change of plans, I was momentarily deflated to see a sign indicating that the ferry service was temporarily unavailable. "Ah well, adventure still calls," I said, as we decided to press on. Soon enough, we stumbled upon a breath-taking spot, adorned with some of the most stunning rock formations you can image. With a car parked a little way down the road, I took the opportunity to wander off and snap some pictures, immersing myself in the natural beauty of the place. We were passing through Canyonlands National Park on the left side and the Glen Canyon National recreational Area on our right.

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Upon my return, I noticed Vaughn chatting with someone. As I approached, Vaughn introduced me, and the topic of my being from Africa came up. The gentleman was immediately intrigued, sharing stories of how his sister and brother-in-law were practically aficionados of African adventures, having travelled extensively across South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania and Zambia. "They adore it, except for Nigeria; they're not keen on going back there," he mentioned, which didn't entirely surprise me. He then asked if I had ever visited his, now hometown, St. Louis, sparking a lively exchange of stories.

I recounted a memorable experience from the late '90s in St. Louis, involving a Cardinals baseball game. Just as I was settling into my seat, the atmosphere electrified, culminating in Mark McGwire hitting his record-breaking 62nd home run of the season, surpassing Sammy Sosa's previous record. The crowd's euphoria was contagious, even though I had barely grasped the significance of the moment at the time.

The gentleman, now visibly animated by my story, shared a fascinating anecdote of his own. Growing up in Pomona, California, in the late 1960s, he played ball with a “freckle-faced, red-haired kid” they called Little Markie-Mark. Little did he know, this kid would grow up to be none other than Mark McGwire himself. "It's amazing where life takes us," he reflected, marvelling at the unexpected journeys of people we once knew.

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An interesting aspect of our encounter was his adherence to a 3-meter social distance, a habit lingering from the days of the Covid pandemic. Observing this, I playfully moved around, pretending to capture photos from various angles, and noticed he maintained the distance, adjusting his position with every move I made. It felt like a dance of sorts, each of us maintaining our spots in a constantly shifting triangle, almost like magnets repelling each other. It was a subtle yet amusing reminder of the times we were living in, adding an extra layer of uniqueness to our chance meeting.

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After hitting the road south on Route 191, our next pit stop was a quaint little gas station at White Mesa. The petrol pump had a sign on the that read: "Stay on the trail. (Unless you've got hooves)." It was like stepping into a scene straight out of a western movie, especially when a couple of authentic cowboys – the real deal, not the pretend kind I encountered in Ely – sauntered in, each walking out with a six-pack of beers under their arm.

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Day 9: Moab to Bluff via Hanksville: (continued)

Paying for gas meant a trip inside the shop, and let me tell you, that was an eye-opener! Beyond the typical snacks and ice creams, you could pick up a saddle, a whip, and then there was the counter, a veritable treasure trove of cigarettes and ammunition. My curiosity got the better of me, and I couldn't help but ask the attendant if he had guns that were for sale too? "Not from me," he replied with a straight face, "but you can get them from the shop across the road." And sure enough, there on the counter was the banner, proudly displaying the Second Amendment, right in front of the sales counter, as if it were the most natural decor. (“A well-regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not
be infringed.")

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The attendant approached us to chat and inquired about our destination after noticing our bikes. We mentioned staying at the Kokopelli Inn in Bluff, and he was quick to recommend The Twin Rocks Café for dinner, mentioning his sister worked there and would take good care of us if we dropped his name. It's these small-town connections that really make a journey memorable, isn't it?

By the time we reached the Kokopelli Inn, Vaughn was looking much better, a good sign that his meds were doing their trick. He decided to skip dinner, aiming for a 24-hour fast to complement his treatment. On the other hand, I was eager to learn more about the area's culinary scene and headed to The Twin Rocks Café. As I got closer, I could see the famous twin rocks.

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Walking up to the entrance, I was met with a vibrant scene, a young girl handing me a cocktail as if she knew I was coming. I mused, feeling pleasantly surprised by everyone there, "Must be Mr. Gas Station Attendant's sister." It was all fun and games until I tried to snag a table, only to find out I had unknowingly crashed a private party. The hostess, ever so gracious, offered to let me stay, but I was on a quest for food, not gate-crashing. 😊

She pointed me toward Comb Ridge Eat and Dine, an open-air spot just down the road. The place was buzzing, but the hostess found a spot for me right at the entrance. Playing along with the lively atmosphere, I joked about expecting the long-legged-blond-Swedish twins (LLBTs), which turned into a real "be careful what you wish for" moment when, lo and behold, a family with teenage blonde twins walked in. The waitress and I shared a laugh over the coincidence – her giggling, me bewildered, and all I could do was mouth a bewildered "WTF?" as she passed by. "You're on your own with this one, bud," she chuckled and whispered to me.

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Settling into my room at the Kokopelli Inn, I couldn't help but chuckle at the name they chose for it: "The Flute Player." It's like they knew I'd appreciate a bit of character in my accommodations. The room came with a little sign inside, diving into the lore behind the Kokopelli flute player. It gave a rundown that felt like it was lifted straight from a Wikipedia page, detailing the symbolism and history of this figure known for fertility, joy, and trickery.

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The irony of the room wasn't lost on me. Here I was, staying in a room named after a deity associated with fertility and mischief, fresh from an evening where I unwittingly crashed a private party at a restaurant. If the folks back at that restaurant had any idea about the mythological company I was keeping, they might have found the mix-up even more amusing. The Kokopelli, with its rich cultural background as a trickster and harbinger of growth, certainly added an unexpected layer of depth to my stay. It was one of those moments where history, culture, and personal adventure intertwine, making for a memorable chapter in my journey. If only the two Swedish LLBTs knew about the fertility deity! 😊

Snippet from Wikipedia: “Kokopelli (/ˌkoʊkoʊˈpɛliː/[1]) is a fertility deity, usually depicted as a humpbacked flute player (often with feathers or antenna-like protrusions on his head), who is venerated by some Native American cultures in the Southwestern United States. Like most fertility deities, Kokopelli presides over both childbirth and agriculture. He is also a trickster god and represents the spirit of music.”
 
Day 9: Moab to Bluff via Hanksville: (continued)

The journey to Bluff was unbearably hot, and after halting next to the road, I rested beneath a tree and saw the "bokdrolle" in the vicinity. To make small-talk and lift his spirits, I explain to Vaighn about a popular Bushveld activity called "Bokdrol Spoeg"... He seems intrigued at first, until I translate it for him: "Kudu dung-spitting competition." He frowns, as he did when I once tried to explain the rules and regulations of a cricket match, and then loses interest quickly..... It appears I am on my own with this one...

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Crossing the Colorado River….

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A couple of random pics of the ride to Bluff through the Glenn Canyon..…

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Day 10: Bluff to Valle (via Monument Valley and Grand Canyon)

Yesterday was just one of those unexpectedly beautiful days that leave you yearning to hold onto the memory forever. (I'm not the kind to collect T-shirts or fridge magnets as souvenirs but the ride was special, and I wanted something to remind me of the day’s ride). So, with this urge for a keepsake, I decided to swing by the gas station shop, curious to find something unique to commemorate the day.

As I stepped outside, I couldn't help but notice a few new faces had joined our little biking community overnight. There was an African Twin, a GS, and, most notably, this fascinating sidecar-trailer hybrid that caught my eye. The sidecar was affectionately nicknamed “The Pig,” complete with a snout painted on the front of the sidecar, which I thought was quite amusing and creative.

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The shop turned out to be a treasure trove. Among the various items, I found these amazing, rounded rocks made from red sandstone that is harvested and produced from the red sandstone hills in the area. They had these beautiful, intricate layered patterns that just captivated me. It was the perfect memento I was looking for.

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To give you an idea of the size of the red-stone ball, I placed it next to the golf balls I retrieved from "Mr Sticky Stool's" crash site.

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When I got back, Vaughn was all geared up and as lively as ever. Just so you know, I did end up looking up the word 'snarky' just to be clear on its meaning. Yes that is indeed the base materials of Vaughn’s communication DNA. 😊

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Vaughn and I were set to embark on today’s journey, which promised to be breath-taking (again). Our route was taking us through Monument Valley, onto the Grand Canyon National Park, and ending in Valle. According to Google Maps, it was about a 400km ride, estimated to take around four and a half hours.

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Along the way, we passed by the iconic “Mexican Hat” rock formation. Unfortunately, with the sun positioned directly behind it, capturing a good photo proved challenging. (The picture below is “borrowed” from Google.)

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Day 10: Bluff to Valle (via Monument Valley and Grand Canyon) (continued)

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We also cruised past the spot where that famous Forrest Gump scene was filmed - you know the one, right?

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Then, at one point, I spotted a car parked with two people standing in the middle of the road. It turned out to be a guy taking photos of his girlfriend with Monument Valley in the background. It was only later that I discovered this spot is quite the hotspot for fashion shoots, reminiscent of “Thelma and Louise,” though they didn’t actually film there.

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At our next pit stop, Vaughn brought up the “Navajo Speak” signs we saw along the road. He explained how during World War II, the Navajo language was used as a code to prevent enemies from understanding intercepted messages. He mentioned a Nicolas Cage movie about it, but you know me, I’m not much of a movie watcher. Still, it was a fascinating bit of history.

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Entering an Indian Reserve, the sight of overgrazed fields and “African Flowers” clinging to wire fences painted a sombre picture. Stopping for a refill and a coffee at McDonald's, we were taken aback by the continued enforcement of mask-wearing and social distancing (tables cordoned off in crime-scene style!). It seemed out of step with the world moving past COVID. And to my surprise, the prices were significantly higher than any other McDonald's. Vaughn explained that within the reserves, gambling and expensive franchises are often the only means of generating income.

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As we edged closer to the Grand Canyon, the landscape around us began to shift dramatically. Our journey took us through Cameron for our last gas and coffee stop, right in the heart of a reserve where, to our surprise, masks were still a must. They even had a guard stationed at the store entrance to ensure compliance. Well, I decided right then and there that I wasn't too keen on going in (I hate wearing a mask, especially if it is so bloody hot!), so we hit the road once more. And guess what? We even spotted a Camel Toe in Arizona of all places!

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Day 10: Bluff to Valle (via Monument Valley and Grand Canyon) (continued)

I know it's getting a little much, but I have to say it again, it was hot, extremely hot.

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Entering the National Park, the speed limit dropped to 25mph, allowing us to really soak in the stunning vistas. Catching my first glimpse of the Grand Canyon was something else. Its vastness is almost overwhelming. After making a few stops at the lookout points, I resolved to come back at dawn the next morning. I wanted to experience the canyon bathed in the first light of day, hoping for a fresh perspective.

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Day 10: Bluff to Valle (via Monument Valley and Grand Canyon) (continued)

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Exiting the park, we grabbed coffee and found ourselves mulling over the paradox of the canyon – so majestic, yet somehow it left us wanting more. I wouldn’t say that disappointed or that I expected “more”. I mean, the canyon is impressive, it is just too big to visually take in by just standing on the edge or lookout point. Vaughn listened intently and then couldn't help but draw parallels to Chevy Chase's rapid visit to the Grand Canyon, complete with those comical, quick head nods. I’m not a movie junkie, but we quickly found the video clip on YouTube, and it hit the nail on the head, capturing the emotion of experiencing that fleeting awe and the rush to move on at the same time. Watch the clip…. and look at Checy's headshake response at around 29 seconds into the vid.

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Our next destination was the Grand Canyon Inn motel. Much like the accommodations near Moab and Yellowstone, staying close to the Grand Canyon can be prohibitively expensive due to the tourist influx. However, we struck gold with the Grand Canyon Inn on Booking.com – it was a steal. At check-in, we learned our rooms were a bit of a trek away, half a mile down the road. My room, marked with Dolly Parton's name on the tag, seemed promising enough. "If it's good enough for Dolly, it's good enough for me," I thought.

However, the first impression of the place wasn't great; it looked like it had been through a bit of a rough patch, with trash cans that seemed to have encountered baboons. But, the moment of truth came as I inspected my room. Aside from the dubious welcome of a rubber toilet plunger by the door, the interior was surprisingly tidy. Hot water checked, toilet flushed (a couple of times)—all systems go. The plush, Dolly-esque cushions on the bed sealed the deal. It was officially a bargain.

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Day 10: Bluff to Valle (via Monument Valley and Grand Canyon) (continued)

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Dinner was at the restaurant of what we dubbed the "Real Grand Canyon Inn." Over our meal, we pieced together that our budget-friendly accommodations likely fell under the Inn's wing after going bankrupt during COVID-19 and are now being rented out as part of their brand.

Vaughn had an early call scheduled for the next morning, which suited my plans perfectly. I intended to drive back into the park, about 50km away, to catch the sunrise over the canyon. This would time well with Vaughn's commitments, allowing us to regroup afterwards and set off for Vegas via interstate 40.

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The art and sculptures in Green River

On my way from Ely to Denver, I stayed over at the Motel 8 in Green River and had supper at the Tamarisk restaurant. On my way to the men's restroom, I noticed a sign on the wall regarding land art based on the Fibonacci sequence.

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I instantly think of the work of Strijdom van der Merwe, a Stellenbosch-based land artist. Strijdom's art is incredible, and examples from his website are below (https://www.strijdom.com/):

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When I ask the waitress about the sculptures, she says that they are just outside of town but require a short walk to get there. I'm divided between two options: I want to wake up early and get to Arches before sunrise. This means I have to leave Green River in the dark, and there's no point in trying to see the sculpture in the dark. Anyway, the narrative behind this is intriguing, and I've linked to a page that provides a thorough overview of the art and artist behind the sculpture which represents the Fibonacci numbers 0,1,1,2,3,5,8,13 by a series of blocks.

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https://www.podles.org/dialogue/green-river-utah-and-the-fibonacci-numbers-4035.htm

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Day 11: Valle to Las Vegas

It's interesting to note that if you enter the parks before sunrise, you don't have to pay an entry charge. I sit with a large group of tourists at the major viewpoint and watch the sun rise over the canyon. It was indeed a very beautiful and memorable occasion.

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I returned to some of the overlooks we visited yesterday, but my small camera made it difficult to capture the canyon's beauty.

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Looking back, visiting the canyon didn't quite hit the mark for me. Ever since I laid eyes on my dad's photos from his 1980 trip (snapped with one of those Kodak instant cameras - remember those?), I've been dreaming about seeing them for myself. He even took a small plane ride through it! Sadly, I neither have the time nor the cash for that kind of adventure, but I honestly believe if you really want to soak in the Grand Canyon in all its glory, you should totally go for a helicopter tour, or maybe even a kayak trip down the river, or how about horseback riding through it?

Including my ride this morning into Canyon Village, we're clocking in at a 500-kilometer journey. Leaving Valle, it's already starting to feel like an oven outside, and the forecast says it's only going to get hotter as we head towards Las Vegas.

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Day 11: Valle to Las Vegas (continued)

Thank goodness interstate I40 lets us zip along at 75mph. On Route 93, we stop for petrol and coffee before heading straight for Vegas, passing Lake Mead on our right, which is currently at record low levels, and then the spectacular Hoover Dam Wall.

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We make a stop at an Indian arts and crafts shop while we are travelling on Interstate 40.

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Next, make a quick visit at the Dunkin' Donuts that is located at the truck stop to get a cup of coffee.

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There is a nice shower and a laundry facility available at the truck stop. This is something that I notice as I am using the loo, and I think to myself, "Yes, everything is bigger and better in this part of the world...It is possible to take aim at a fly that has been printed on the porcelain of the urinals in Amsterdam, but in Vegas, they have a real insect in the urinal wall! Miskien ‘n "Nevada-oogpister?” En natuurlik die grootste-beste-sterkste-pister-in-die-we^reld! 😊

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Because of the heavy volume of traffic, it was difficult to locate the exit that would lead to the viewpoint that was located on top of the dam. We concluded that it would be best to postpone it and continue to Las Vegas instead. The only photographs I was able to take during the ride were those that I took over my right shoulder in an attempt to capture Hoover Dam as we passed it.

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Entering and exiting the city of Las Vegas, there are four lanes of traffic... Finding our hotel was a bit of a challenge for Putin and I ended up asking Vaughn to play navigator with Google Maps. By the time we got to the hotel, we were drenched in sweat.

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Man, Vegas hotels are something else, aren't they? With over 150,000 hotel rooms available…

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They're huge! I mean, five of the top nine largest hotels in the world are here. The thought of managing a 7,000-room hotel boggles my mind.

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Day 11: Valle to Las Vegas (continued)

We finally find our hotel and lug our bags from the parking garage to reception, all while still in our stifling biking gear. Standing in line, I'm painfully aware of how sweaty and grimy we must look - and probably smell. But at that point, I couldn't care less. I just wanted to get to our room and jump into the shower.

Vegas hotels are surprisingly affordable since they really want you to splurge in their casinos and on the entertainment they offer. Our hotel was no exception. From Denver to Durango, Valle, and now this - I gotta thank Vaughn for saving the best for last.

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We decide to take a quick shower and then meet in the lobby where we will head into town to grab something to eat and then as desert, we will go to the rock show...

Then there was my crash course in American fast food - we hit up IN-N-OUT Burger. Vaughn had tipped me off about their secret menu while we had dinner in Valle last night. So, I did my homework and decided on a 4x4 Animal Burger and Cheese Fries, with a chocolate shake to top it off.

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The "IN-N-OUT" is located right next to the "High Roller," which is experiencing a growing number of customers who are interested in watching the sunset from the big wheel.

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Vaughn got us tickets for Aerosmith. Can you believe those guys have been rocking out for over 50 years? And even after Steven Tyler's recent rehab stint, they absolutely killed it on stage for three solid hours without a single break. It's wild that they're in their 70s, rocking out three times a week as resident artists. Tyler and Joe Perry (or "Joe-fucking-Perry" as Tyler refers to him) put on an unforgettable show playing the leads.

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The performance that took place at the Dolby Theatre, which has a capacity of 5,000, was quite remarkable. It was a little odd when they played "Walk This Way," considering the number of wheelchairs that were present in the audience, and Vaughn pointed out the irony with his trademark snarkiness. (Is that a word?)

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After the show, we called an Uber, ready to crash. Meanwhile, Vegas was just coming to life. The streets and the hotel lobby were buzzing with energy.

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Before calling it a night, I took a moment to look out from my hotel window, already plotting our route for tomorrow and checking the weather forecast.

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What a day!
 
Day 12: Las Vegas to Joshua Tree.

Losing Vaughn in the whirlwind of Las Vegas traffic felt like a minor hiccup, considering we were both headed towards the iconic Joshua Tree. With my trusty sidekick, Putin (my GPS), MapsMe, and those handy route pointers attached to my handlebar, I was buzzing with confidence. I mean, really, what could possibly go wrong?

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In today's journey we'll be covering about 370 kilometers, and our route will take us right past the Mojave National Preserve.

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This area is known for its vast, desert landscapes and unique wildlife. It promises some incredible scenery, from sand dunes and volcanic formations to Joshua tree forests and rugged mountains.

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Our destination is the iconic Joshua Tree National Park. This place is famous for its surreal, otherworldly landscape dotted with the distinctive Joshua trees, dramatic rock formations, and wide-open skies that are perfect for stargazing. It's going to be a memorable day full of natural beauty and wonder.

Leaving Vegas behind, I was mesmerized by vast fields of solar panels—an eco-friendly sight amidst the desert backdrop.

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Lots of solar panels…

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About an hour and a half into our journey, I decided to pull over at a gas station for a quick refuel and a much-needed coffee break at McDonald's. Imagine my utter surprise when I found Vaughn there, casually sitting inside, even though his bike was conspicuously absent from the parking lot. We immediately dove back into our discussions from the previous night, reminiscing about that amazing Aerosmith show...

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Crossing from Nevada into California.

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As fate would have it, we hit the legendary Route 66…

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