BACK TO BOTS ~ KUBU ISLAND @ High Tide !

[wildside]

For a lot of the way the tracks were narrow and the left leg often got whacked by bushes while the left hand, if not quick enough to pull it away, always got grabbed by the long gnarly thorns. But, despite these complaints it still turned out to be enjoyable riding. Eventually, in the distance, we could see the welcoming sight of the rooves belonging to the Makgadikgadi Adventure camp. What a relief!!! But, in between us and the comfort of the camp was yet another huge swampy area challenging us. This time we opted to go through the marshy grassland area instead of what looked like a main route but this was equally as challenging. Once again Roxy impressed me with her good riding skills and led the way up to the sign post for a brief ‘high five’…we had made it…with our sense of humour intact.











It was after 5.5 hours of continuous riding, slip sliding and falling into water that we threw anchor at Makgadikgadi Adventure Camp. We arrived hot, exhausted and thirsty at about 3.30pm to the welcoming knowledge that ice cold cokes and beer were available. We promptly rewarded ourselves with a couple of these before deciding to make use of one of their tents sporting two beds. It would cost the same amount for the three of us to share one tent as it would to have the schlepp of pitching our tents i.e P100 each!









The ablutions were spotless and boasted hot showers. At this time of the day and after hectic riding one overlooks the bit of shabbiness and the pleasantness of the friendly staff makes up for anything that is lacking. It was a perfect spot for recovery and being at the gated intersection, any wary traveler could stop and enjoy something cold to drink before heading off again or deciding to spend the night.







Much to Roxy’s horror dinner consisted of one packet of rice, a sachet of tuna, a tin of mussles and  ciabata bread. To wrap up our day we were treated to a beautiful Botswana sunset. With the dark come the scorpions and we were instructed to wear shoes at all times.





Of course it was early to bed only to be woken up at about 10pm by vehicles driving into camp and then driving out shortly afterwards. Where could they be off to at this time of the night?
It was nice knowing that we had ended our day safely and we were all fed, warm and comfortable. 

 

[OOOOMS]

:salut: :salut: :salut:

 

[zacapa]

Nice one guys and great story-telling and pics :thumleft:  Looking forward to the next chapter...

This reminds me that a water cooled bike is best experienced by taking an XR across some Botswana wetlands.

 

[popipants]

Wow, nice report.
Good on you doing Bots in the wet!!

 

[wildside]

Nice one guys and great story-telling and pics :thumleft:  Looking forward to the next chapter...

This reminds me that a water cooled bike is best experienced by taking an XR across some Botswana wetlands.

Hi Zacapa,  good to hear from you....been a long time. Those bikes of ours never missed a beat....were very impressed.
Next chapter coming up shortly.

 

[wildside]

MAKGADIKGADI ADVENTURE CAMP to KUBU ISLAND.


We were all looking forward to today’s short ride to KUBU ISLAND. Joseph, the guy in charge of the camp, warned us that the tide was up and there was a lot of water on the way to the Island. Apparently two motorbikes and two vehicles had got stuck on the pans as they had approached from the southern side that Jon had warned us about, forcing them to spend the evening out on the pans.

It was 9.30 am when we said our goodbyes and passed through the gates in search of Kubu Island. We were all looking forward to this part of the ride despite feeling cheated that we couldn’t stick to our original route. We knew we were in for an eventful day but time was on our side as it was only 19 km’s which left us a lot of time to overcome any problems we might encounter and take time out to enjoy the experience.

As promised there was plenty of water about and I took a few unplanned dips, which was no problem except for the heavy pickups, drowned equipment and dented pride (the score board was running!). On one long stretch of water Roxy was cruising, or should I say sailing, so nicely when suddenly her front wheel connected something and she managed a graceful face plant, lowering her score. It certainly provided for brief entertainment.











At some stage we came to a river crossing that looked a little deeper than we were used to. Roxy and I prudently let Kingsley reach the far bank before we committed ourselves to the depth and current that was strong enough to get ones attention as it veered us slightly off course but we made it across without any hassles. We were both so proud of ourselves.


We eventually came out of the bush and onto clearing and there in front of us was just one huge expanse of water with tracks heading into it and far on the other side we could make out the tracks leading out of the water. Land ahoy…. there in the distance we could make out Kubu Island jutting up out of the horizon.













While we were negotiating this crossing and taking photos we noticed a vehicle approaching from the left. The first we had seen since leaving Nata. As they got nearer Kingsley went to chat to them to get advice about directions. He convinced us that there was a better crossing further to the left. We just needed to follow the tracks from where he had come. Great stuff…this was going to be easy.

We soon approached this quagmire of muddy tracks that had been created by many bad decisions, stretching out into acres of shallow sludge. Which line to choose now?? We decided to stick to what we thought was the main route through. I watched in admiration as Kingsley and Roxy worked their way successfully through this mess leaving me to nervously get myself across as I was always a bit more cautious and thus slower. I was doing just fine and then suddenly I hit a wobble and gravity won the day (damn that score!). Roxy bravely turned around and rode back to assist me with the ‘heev-ho.’






Kingsley, who had walked back to me, kindly offered to take the bike across the rest of the way. With great relief Roxy and I slipped and slid our way back to her bike. At one stage she was actually skating across this snot-like mud….she was in her element.












KUBU ISLAND IN THE BACKGROUND

 

[Mr G (David)]

Wow....well done Offside and family....greatt stuff out in the wet....bikes looking good too.....listen Kingsley....u got to sort that hair out man... :ricky:

Was this still without a Garmin? 

Some off those water sections looked seriously chalenging. Great story....lekka pics  :thumleft:

 

[Mr G (David)]

Duplicated....sorry...working off a phone

 

[wildside]

It was with great relief, and a feeling of satisfaction, that the three of us rode onto Kubu Island…. this much sort after place in the middle of the Makgadkgadi Pans. It was certainly a great achievement for two girls, one a newbie, to undertake this trip in flooded conditions and very brave of Kingsley to put up with us.
There were already two crowds of campers spread out in the bush and we soon found a lovely shady spot at the picnic site. One has to be totally self sufficient on this Island as there is No Water, No ablutions and No food available. We thought that we had arrived fully prepared with our full hydration packs and an extra 2L of water each but it was extremely hot and we were desperately thirsty and our supply was already running low.








THERE WERE PLENTY OF CATERPILLARS AROUND THAT WE HAD TO AVOID SQUASHING


We set up our camp, put on cooler clothes, picked up our cameras and went for a walk to check out the baobabs. The pans were very soft in places and you could see the vehicle tracks sinking deep into the darker and softer areas. It was an incredible feeling looking up at theses huge rocky outcrops and majestic baobabs. Due to all the rains the baobab branches were covered in bright green foliage adding to the prettiness of them. In our planning this was merely a speck on the map, a picture in a magazine and now here we were walking around this magical Island. As we walked around the rocky corner there was just this huge expanse of nothingness with a topping of mirage and nothing to interfere with the flat horizon….just one awesome salt pan! It was quite spectacular.

 

[Xpat]

Well done, we were too wasted to contemplate Kubu visit this time.

 

[wildside]

With a bit of complaining from Rox we managed to walk around the Island. We had great fun with the GoPro and found more baobabs on the other side. We walked until we came across another track that led onto the island where one can find a plaque and a write up about the history of the island. After following this track we found our way back at our campsite after a super 1.5 hr walk.
It’s strange how the mind works…as soon as one know there’s a shortage of water one just has the need to drink more and more and I just couldn’t satisfy my thirst.  Sitting under the shade of the tree we decided to play cards and the loser of the first game, which was me, had to go and ask the other campers for water.









The first group of campers were very friendly and helpful and parted with 3L of water offering us more in the morning if we needed. These were the same people who had driven into the Adventure Camp late the previous night in hope of finding free accommodation. They had miscalculated the time and ended up driving late into the night. Fortunately they had eventually arrived safely.

As the sun started dipping we set off on the bikes to the far side of the island to take some photos. We rode around a bit on the pans ever so cautious trying to avoid the wet patches but of course I ended up on my side yet again much to Roxy and Kingsley’s amusement.


























We had great fun posing for photos in the setting sun as the colours were clear and crisp. We then moved around to the other side of the Island where we could watch the sun set. It was simply magical just sitting on the Makgadikgadi Pans watching the disappearing sun bringing an end to yet another beautiful Botswana day.

































We headed back to our camp in the dark where we quickly ate some dinner before climbing into our tents. Lying in our tent with all the flaps open revealed a beautiful full moon which moved across the star studded sky as it shone down on us like a big bright torch.

 

[wildside]

Just a few more photos....been having trouble with photobucket







GOODNIGHT :sleepy1:

 

[Mr G (David)]

Thank you Wildside.....great rr....those last sunset pics are tops and Lekhubu definitely a place to visit.

 

[wildside]

KUBU ISLAND to PLANET BAOBAB.

An early morning wake was necessary as we wanted to be back on the salt pans for sunrise. It was just getting light when we head off on our bikes to round the northern corner of Kubu Island, once again giving me this feeling of disbelief as the three of us rode out towards the eastern horizon. Unfortunately there was a bank of clouds low on the horizon and it blocked the first phase of the sunrise. It wasn’t as spectacular as the sunset but it was still great to be out experiencing the vastness at beginning of a new day.















We were keen to get moving as early as possible as we had 190km ahead of us and it we had some hard riding ahead of us. After a cup of coffee and a rusk it was a quick pack up and by 7.30 am we departed Kubu Island. We decided to avoid the stretch of watery sludge and mess that we had crossed on arrival and head off in the direction of the big lake-like expanse of water. Kingsley, being the gentleman that he is, went first. Once he got to the other side he gave us the thumbs up and we tried as best we could to follow his line. The water was fairly deep but we had good traction and made it across with no surprises.























We experienced a few more offs and yet these bikes of ours never missed a beat and after each fall – in sand or water they have started up again without any hassles at all.












ROXY WAS ALWAYS READY WITH THE CAMERA WHEN WE HAD OUR OFFS. :

 

[JonW]

Great pics Karen, thanks for sharing.

 

[dawie louw]

Respect :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy: 

 

[wildside]

On arriving at the river crossing we came across a Landrover that had got itself into some trouble and was stationary about two thirds of the way through the river and was blocking the road out. The river had subsided a bit and we all made it across to the other side. We then stopped and walked back through the river to help these two guys push their vehicle out. We managed to get it half out the water and the front wheel dropped into a hole. Well that was it …it wouldn’t budge. We informed them that if they just waited a while there were some vehicles passing through shortly and they would assist them.












Once again we passed by a small area around a kraal and nearby hut which was surrounded by lush green plants and pretty bright yellow flowers. It looked like something out of a picture book.






It was an enjoyable ride back to Makgadikgadi Adventure Camp where we stopped once again for some refreshments. We all took advantage of the ablutions and cleaned ourselves up as best we could.  Joseph informed us that the two bikers that had got stuck on the pans the previous night had eventually arrived and spent the night. They had set off in a northerly direction earlier this morning. As this was the only way in and out we followed the same route. Kingsley tried his best to get us to up the pace a bit as he wanted to get to Planet Baobab early afternoon.
To cut a long story short. We all had our fair share of offs…some for stupid reasons…like the bike not leaning over enough once the stand is out and Kingsley connected the ‘middlemannetjie’ at  quite a speed and took a mean tumble and because he hadn’t taken his own advice about jumping clear he got trapped underneath.








. Another time he fell in one of the long stretches of water and as I stopped to assist my left foot ended up in a hole and over I went. It was actually quite comical and it generated a fare amount laughter and ridicule. At this stage Roxy was handling these hectic roads with such confidence and better than us despite having hit the deck again in the same spot she fell a couple of days ago. It was great riding behind her and seeing all the pretty bright colours of her yellow, pink, green, and blue clothing on her back and strapped to her luggage and her snazzy colourful helmet also added to the cheerfulness of this image.






Believe it or not we made some good progress once we were on dry ground and managed to up our speed.


Roxy up front following some wild horses.

After about 4.5 hrs I started to tire and what was wet and compacted sand two days ago was now dry, loose and sandy. Once again the shrub growing out onto the now narrow sandy track and having that ‘middlemannetjie’ left no room for error. With about 20 kms to go I kept loosing concentration and really battled through the sandy sections. I was now so tired and was stopping about every 5km to rest and drink and convince myself that I could do this. Kingsley and Roxy were both so patient and encouraging. On the last long stretch of water, (which I preferred to the sand) which continued around corner after corner Kingsley and I both dropped our bikes again but thank goodness the vehicles approaching didn’t witness this. We had to keep our pride intact. We managed to get our bikes off the road, or should I say river, as we didn’t want to interrupt their momentum as they came past at a hectic speed, spraying water everywhere.  Once on dry land they stopped to check if we were okay and filled us in on how they helped the Landrover out the water as well as two other 4x4 vehicles that had got themselves stuck in the same river.















I couldn’t believe it when a few kilometers later we popped out through the hedge at the tarred Maun road. I could have kissed that tar. What a relief.

 

[wildside]

What confused me a bit was that it wasn’t the same track we took to go south. Somewhere further back the road must have split without us even realizing it.  But we were now all so exhausted and keen to get to Planet Baobab. The only dilemma now was no fuel. Kingsley seemed to think it was a good idea to top up Roxy’s and my bike, which would get us to Planet Baobab and refuel in Gweta the next day, leaving himself enough to get to Nata, instead of all three of us going back to Nata. As Roxy’s maximum speed was only about 80km/hr we were getting a head start and Kingsley was convinced he would catch us up. I had a feeling that this wasn’t a good plan and we were breaking our own rule ‘never to separate’, but we turned left and he turned right for the 12 km ride back to Nata.

It was a long straight road and just seemed endless and we were both feeling quite wary. A quick stop, a hunt for a shady tree and something to drink and snack on revived us a bit. It was at this stage that we had expected Kingsley to catch up with us.




By now I had also gone onto reserve but knew that I could reach Planet Baobab. As we arrived at the huge anthill with a planet on top indicating the turn off to Planet Baobab Roxy’s bike spluttered and ran out of fuel. She was now so fed up and wasn’t prepared to wait for her dad to arrive with more fuel. The sign indicated 1km to the Lodge so she decided that pushing her bike was a better option. She was so determined but what angered her more was that the 1 km turned out to be what felt like about 2kms. She wouldn’t let me help her so I just chugged slowly next to her offering her lots of irritating encouragement. We arrived at reception with her huffing, puffing, hot and sweaty. We were fortunate enough to get a campsite. On arrival at our site we realized that someone else had already set up camp so had to go in search of another site.



NO FUEL!!!










By now we were really worried about Kingsley being so late but there was nothing we could do and for some reason the phones didn’t work. We were also sure that he might have found himself a cozy pub and was rehydrating with a few beers. So we thought it a good idea for us to celebrate our Kubu Island visit with cocktails in the lovely funky bar and await Kingsley’s arrival.

When he eventually did arrive he was rather stressed and regretted the decision to part ways. He ran out of fuel about 5km from Nata. Foolishly we had miscalculated the distance as we had popped out of the Kubu track further away from Nata than where we had turned off the other day. But somehow he kept draining fuel into the carb and limped in to Nata to refuel. As luck would have it he punctured his front wheel a short distance from Nata on returning to Planet Baobab…and guess what….the puncture repair kit and spare tube were on my bike. Fortunately two other guys on motorbikes stopped and helped him out with a repair patch. We since discovered that they were also WD's, 'pienaarj' & Stein who had also bumped into 'Xpat' & 'Straatkat'.  Apparently they had all come from the south after getting stuck on the pans.

Kingsley's story is verified by this photo below supplied by 'pienaarj' ,for which he is most grateful,l as he was accused of lingering in a Nata pub!! :tongue3:  Thanks for saving the day guys :thumleft:





We promptly set up camp and got ourselves comfortable for a two night stay. It was relaxing time. It was good to be back here and the place has been well maintained over the years and just as popular but sadly the food was not up to scratch.
We had a comfy campsite with a thatched lapa, electrical point and retro ablutions and it only cost us P75 each. We crashed very soon after dinner as by now we were all complaining of various aches and pains.

 

[Keith Barbier]

Fantastic  :thumleft:  :thumleft: Awesome

 

[Xpat]

Nice riding!

You must have made it out pretty soon after us  (we had quite long stop at that river as Straatkat had to do and then undo the Husky waterproofing) as you clearly made it out between us and Jacques with Stein. Did you meet them in MAC? If not you must have passed them somewhere along the way - they got lost (they didn't have GPS) and ended up crossing Botswanian army fire range somewhere along the way.