Day 11 - part 1
(pictures in this episodes can be viewed at higher resolution here:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmhKKvFT)
I had two days of riding left before I was to meet Bertie back in Uis. The plan for today was to get to the beginning of the Valley of Desolation track off the main dirt highways as much as possible. Ideal route that would eliminate need to ride again some of the tracks we have already done on this trip would be backtracking down the Hoanib river and take Crowther trail down to Palmwag. Unfortunately that track and the whole area west of C43 is part of Palmwag conservancy and definitely is - and was for a long time - off limits to the bikes. So the only option left was area east of C43 - i.e. Khowarib gorge and Little Serengeti, that we have done on the way up on Day 2. So I would be backtracking, but at least on the track that I wasn’t very familiar with yet (first time I’ve done it on this trip). And to mix things up, I would get out of Little Serengeti using different route following the track MaxThePanda & the gang did that connected with C40 at Erwee.
Route for the day:
I woke up early and packed up still in the dark to set-off straight after breakfast. It was a special morning as there was short, but intense shower earlier that night - first rain in the area for the past either 2 or 5 years (can’t remember which) I was told by the ranges in the lodge. Hence the air was uncharacteristically fresh and cool.
After fill-up at the lodge petrol station I gunned it down the dirt highway 30 km to the turn-off to the Khowarib gorge, where I turned east and hit the gorge.
The rain earlier made for pleasant riding and even the fesh fesh section we battled through on day 2 was noticeably easier. Which lasted up until I hit the Hoanib river crossing, which now held quite a bit water. If there is a slightest chance, I always avoid water crossings religiously, so I stopped and went to scout the route across on foot. It took a while, but eventually I found line through the reefs that I was sufficiently happy with, with only about 2 meter long puddle at the other side of the river. Which I didn’t walk through as it looked pretty harmless. I cruised through the 30 meters of the riverbed without glitch, but as soon as I hit the puddle ready to wheelie over the bottom gave way and I fell through into a deep hole. Taken completely by surprise I got thrown left and found myself totally submerged in the muck under the bike which was balancing at precarious angle keen to go for swim as well. There were few tense seconds - that felt more like hours - when I watched with horror tank cap getting to within few mm of the water surface right in front of my face while trying desperately do keep the bike upright while with one legged squat neck deep in the water. Eventually, using everly little bit of strength left I prevailed and managed to get the bike back up again. But there was no time to relax - I was painfully aware that my iPhone and camera were floating in a pool of water in my waterproof jacket pockets - which now worked as perfect scoops holding the water in rather than letting it drain out.
I had to get out of the water as quick as possible, but wasn’t sure if starting the bike was the best idea, as during the ju jitsu the airbox and seat ended up under water for quite a while. I stalled the bike as soon as I fell through so hoping no water made it into the engine I hit the starter button and to my great relief the bike fired up and I was able to gun the front wheel up the river bank and dig the rear one into the bottom. Not ideal, but stable enough to jump off the bike without risk of it falling over and start get all the electronics out of my pockets and wet backpack.
The camera seemed to handle the bath fine, but the iPhone started acting straight away, with touch screen behaving erratically and water clearly visible in the phone camera lens. For next few days it took quite a bit of sophisticated fingering to get the phone do what i wanted, as sections of touchscreen worked fine, while others didn’t so I found myself looking for creative ways to for example start the phone. But to Apple’s credit, the water eventually dried out and the phone went back to normal.
Luckily there were two guys from the nearby kraal collecting water, who helped me to push the bike out of the hole and up on the river bank. I gave them beer money for the trouble and then settled in for half and hour or so waiting for the electronics to dry out sufficiently before setting off again.
With that sorted I rode up the Khowarib canyon without further drama, just wet from toe to the top of my head which made for pretty chilly ride:
Once out of the gorge, I hit the Ombonde river bed for next 15 km, encountering quite a bit of game that came out to enjoy aftermath of the precious rain.