Day 3 - part 1
(pictures in this episode can be viewed at better resolution here:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskzbfRuw)
In the morning Bertie and I broke the camp keen to get going, except Justin had different idea. Last evening he has patched the inner Tubeliss tube and was keen to put it in and try it out. Naturally Bertie and I were not crazy about the idea, as the current tube was working just fine so why change something that isn’t broken. But Justin persevered and claimed that it will be very quick (yeah, right), so Bertie not keen to argue decided to join in to get it done and over quickly.
I bitched a bit longer, but eventually let it go as I thought we should be able to make Opuwo comfortably even with another late start and on alternative route I haven’t done before. The only potential snag may have been Robbie’s pass we were to encounter. But I figured - if 4x4s occasionally make it and even some German D650s did, how difficult can it be on 500? It turns out - quite difficult…
Beautifull bodies in motion - pure poetry:
The idea of riding Robbie’s pass came from Hardy de Kock, who suggested it as an alternative to my original plan. Which was to ride over to Purros (already night before instead of stopping early in Ongongo as we did) and take Hoarusib river from there all the way to Opuwo. I have done the lower reaches of Hoarusib around Purros few times, but haven’t ridden the upper reaches heading up almost all the way to Opuwo. Hardy has done it in a 4x4 and said that the route is beautiful, but he also warned me off strongly as had two friends ride through there recently coincidentally also on 500s and one of them ended up falling into deep hole trap covered completely by fesh fesh, broke his collarbone and had to be evacuated. Apparently there is this phenomena happening every few years at the confluence of Hoarusib and its non-name tributary when I guess (complete speculation here) the flowing water - a rare occasion in this parts - creates whirls at the confluence of the two rivers which dig out deep holes in the riverbed and then covers them later on with soft sand that dries into fesh fesh. So Hardy’s friend was riding nice sandy riverbed same like dozen others in Kaokoland, when the ground let go from underneath, and he hit the hidden hole ending up to his neck in fesh fesh and with broken collarbone.
That was definitely something to take note of, but to be honest on it’s own wouldn’t dissuade me from riding there - now that I knew about the hazard, we should be able to avoid it. But Hardy suggested alternative (understanding that the main C43 dirth highway is not an option for us) - riding from Sesfontein over the Robbie’s pass to Kaoko Otavi and from there on D3707 to Opuwo. He called it very technical which naturally tickled my interest, so I found a video on Youtube of couple of Germans doing it on DR650, and was converted. Here is that video:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/eUCKGNRsB5w[/youtube]
So the plan for the day was to make it to Opuwo riding the tracks over Robbie’s pass. Here is the route we did and as you will notice, we made it to Robbie’s pass, but not Opuwo - you will see why by the end of this episode.
Back to Ongongo and the Tubeliss experiment, once the other two got the inner tube finally installed, we packed up and set-off - as usually past 9 am. First we had to do short 20 or so km dash on C43 highway to Sesfontein and I led the way. About 15 km in I stopped at the crossing where C43 turned north towards Opuwo, waiting for the other two to make sure they take the right turn. Bertie arrived soon after, but no sight of Justin.
It didn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out what happened. And sure enough much later Justin crawled in on flat front tyre. On the upside - in scientific experiment even negative result is good, because the rest of humanity (that includes Justin - not completely sure about that though) can avoid the mistake of trying to patch 7 bar tube. On the downside - we were going to lose more time.
As Justin was able to ride the bike, there was no point trying to fix it on the side of the road, so we pushed on the last 5 km to Sesfontein, where we first stopped at the supermarket to stock up on goodies we have used up last night like Spam and most importantly sweetened condensed milk, and then we drove another few hundred meters to the petrol station adjacent to the Sesfontein Fort lodge. Where we were told that they are out or petrol (unexpected funeral sucked them dry). They were expecting petrol truck sometimes later that day from Otjiwarongo 450 km (half of it dirt) away.
Leaving Ongongo camp:
Sesfontein street life:
We rode back to the town enquiring if there may be somebody selling petrol from drum, but while that is now widely available even in very remote villages in Kaokoland (as we were to find out later on), there was no point selling drum petrol here - at the end of the day they were a proper town (speaking in relative terms here) and had a petrol station.
We (or rather Justin) still had to deal with flat front tyre, so we retreated to the Sesfontein Fort lodge, where we had proper breakfast after which Justin proceeded to put in the tube he took out 2 hours ago.
Waiting for Justin to finish I became suddenly acutely aware of the grave danger we were in and the other two were completely oblivious to. Beautifully maintained palm tree shaded courtyard with blue pool and virtually unlimited supply of cooked food and drinks and most importantly - WIFI - stirred one of my worst demons - the inner gastro tourist. Cloaked by the fog that has settled over my brain, his claw reaching from my guts got a good grip on the brain. His voice whispering things like ‘there is nothing we can do - we have to wait for the petrol here, which will probably only arrive tomorrow, so we may as well settle into one of the air conditioned rooms right now’. I have lost this fight many times before - indeed 2 or 3 times in this very same establishment.
On the brink of another crushing defeat, I jumped into the action with whatever little willpower I have left and called for a conference. Luckily, Justin was just about done with the tyre so we sat down and pondered our options. We knew this is Africa and the truck would be there at best in the evening (‘I told you’ said gastro tourist in my head smiling, his golden tooth glistering brightly). Theoretically we should have enough petrol to make it to Opuwo 170 - 180 km away (we’ve done so far about 180 since last refill), as we should be able to make 400 km on a tank. But we didn’t know how much our consumption was affected by all the sand and rock riding. Our best guess was that we will either just make it, or just not make it. But we figured, we might be able to get petrol in Kaoko Otavi about 40 km short of Opuwo and even if not, as a last resort - should we see we are running low - we would just get all the remaining petrol into one of our bikes, and one of us will then shoot up to Opuwo and bring petrol back to the other two left behind.
With that settled (and gastro tourist positively pissed off), we had one more Coke for the road, geared up and set-off again. By now it was past noon and we had about 180 km of unknown terrain to cover. I have investigated two routes up to Robbie’s pass - the preferred one following up the Ganamub riverbed, and the back up D3705. With such a delay, I settled for the D3705, which was shorter and headed up north straight out of Sesfontein - while the Ganamub required ride out west towards Puros.
D3705 turned out to be much better than expected. None of tha nicely maintained D road stuff like D3707 (which to be perfectly honest I like as well), but rather almost abandoned rocky double tracks with few tricky climbs thrown in to keep it entertaining even on 500, while still enabling us to keep pretty steady pace covering good distance in decent time. These will give you an idea:
We were making good progress and made it to the last village before Robbie’s pass, about half-way through to Kaoko Otavi, at about 14:00. At this pace it looked like we may still be able to make it to Opuwo for the night, so the inner gastro tourist started to visualise medium rare steak straight away.