Ek ry saam! Weer. Die eerste keer was n moerse voorreg. Kannie wag vir die fotos nie. Eks sooooo bly jy doen n RR namens almal.
Damaraland & Kaokoland – Finally!
- Thread starter Rooies
- Start date
Today we head to Palmwag. We need to do some distance, over 300km, all on dirt highways with the occasional droeë driffie / dry riverbed to cross. The desert is sneaking up on us as we start to encounter a few more sandy patches as we progress northwards.
We stop and have a roadside lunch, prepared by the crew. And as they do, they even offer us filter coffee in the middle of the desert.
We arrive at Palmwag without incident, and the usual suspects move straight towards the nearest bar...
We stop and have a roadside lunch, prepared by the crew. And as they do, they even offer us filter coffee in the middle of the desert.
We arrive at Palmwag without incident, and the usual suspects move straight towards the nearest bar...
A very esteemed member of this forum, known for his immaculate Crocs and being a Prince of a certain Northern Cape dorpie, has, would you believe it, two amazing children, who both joined us on this tour. The brother and sister duo know their way around bikes. The brother, however, is an absolute anomaly on a bike. Bliksem, the guy can ride! And you will not find one windgat hair on his head, the humblest and nicest guy you will meet. Guess who he is in the videos below...
My room, laundry, cupboard, washing line & bed for the night.
The next morning we have our riders briefing, today we are heading for Kaoko Mopane Lodge, just outside of Opuwo. It is another day where we will be covering a lot of distance in order to get us closer to the Kunene river, where the real fun starts.
The next morning we have our riders briefing, today we are heading for Kaoko Mopane Lodge, just outside of Opuwo. It is another day where we will be covering a lot of distance in order to get us closer to the Kunene river, where the real fun starts.
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Another sort of excitement starts to build as you can feel civilisation slipping away behind you. Not sure if this was indeed planned, but gradually the roads are getting more and more technical. This provides us with lots of time to acclimatise to the area and the conditions as it gets more sandy and technical.
The promise of more wildlife is also hanging in the air. I am especially keen to see the desert elephants, which is becoming a possibility. Some of the group did indeed see the elephants, I was unfortunately not that lucky. Which of course means I will have to go again.
On the way to Opuwo we get refreshed at Khowarib Lodge. The mob descends on the bar!
This. Beer. Was. Amazing.
Again I wish my camera and photography skills could do the vistas justice. We rode through a valley littered with boababs, quite a surprise if you are not expecting it.
5km before Opuwo Johan runs out of petrol. We tilt his bike to salvage the last bit of petrol from the bottom of the lower one side of the petrol tank. As much as Johan nurses his bike into Opuwo, the inevitable happens and he runs out again as we enter the dorpie. @Parkinoff immediately makes a plan, salvages an old container of sorts from the side of the road, cleans it, and siphons off fuel from his bike for Johan. Problem swiftly solved.
The promise of more wildlife is also hanging in the air. I am especially keen to see the desert elephants, which is becoming a possibility. Some of the group did indeed see the elephants, I was unfortunately not that lucky. Which of course means I will have to go again.
On the way to Opuwo we get refreshed at Khowarib Lodge. The mob descends on the bar!
This. Beer. Was. Amazing.
Again I wish my camera and photography skills could do the vistas justice. We rode through a valley littered with boababs, quite a surprise if you are not expecting it.
5km before Opuwo Johan runs out of petrol. We tilt his bike to salvage the last bit of petrol from the bottom of the lower one side of the petrol tank. As much as Johan nurses his bike into Opuwo, the inevitable happens and he runs out again as we enter the dorpie. @Parkinoff immediately makes a plan, salvages an old container of sorts from the side of the road, cleans it, and siphons off fuel from his bike for Johan. Problem swiftly solved.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2014
- Messages
- 7,088
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- 3,068
- Location
- Loxton - Northern Cape
- Bike
- Yamaha T7
Five riders who did the tour with us in 2021 joined again this year.
One of them broke almost everything in his body in Divorce Pass on the last day in 2021 and was in hospital for almost a month. Johan Liebenberg was not born with the the natural skill some other riders have, but this guy has decided long ago that he was going to kick fear in the face and send self preservation to hell and back.
Watching Johan kit up is something to behold. Nothing rushes him.
Even though he rides with others from time to time, you always get the idea that Johan will ride out of and into camp on his own. He actually reminds me of an Aborigine on a walkabout. Brilliant guy that is loved by everyone on tour.
I will add a short story about every rider throughout this thread if it is ok with you Roux?
Great report so far.
As we arrive at the lodge some R&R is immediately indulged in. Many of the guys would jump with their riding suits into the pools as we got to them to have some semblance of cleanliness going! Others (insert name here) would scare unwitting foreign tourists by wading into the pools in their underwear...
A few days in and the group is getting to know each other. What a treat to get to know a bunch of such great people, each and everyone on the trip.
My lodgings for the evening. By now I am convinced that sleeping next to my motorcycle is the best thing ever.
Opuwo is the regional capitol of the Kunene region. This would be the last town we visit where you will find western-type shops. I popped into the local SPAR to pick up a few things, and stood behind this Himba lady. Opowo would be our first encounter with related, yet vastly differently dressed Himba and Herero tribes.
A few days in and the group is getting to know each other. What a treat to get to know a bunch of such great people, each and everyone on the trip.
My lodgings for the evening. By now I am convinced that sleeping next to my motorcycle is the best thing ever.
Opuwo is the regional capitol of the Kunene region. This would be the last town we visit where you will find western-type shops. I popped into the local SPAR to pick up a few things, and stood behind this Himba lady. Opowo would be our first encounter with related, yet vastly differently dressed Himba and Herero tribes.
That would be awesome, @Hardy de Kock .
And did he kick fears' face! I have got some nice photos and videos of Johan as he descended Divorce Pass which I will share.
Lekker Roux, bly jy het die writing-gauntlet opgevat die keer
Exploratio
Race Dog
Today the goal is to get to Epupa falls. The morning routine would become one of waking up at around 0600, while it is still pitch dark. The sun rises suddenly just before 0700 and then we break down camp. This means folding up your stretcher, putting away your sleeping bag, getting your kit on, packing the duffel bag that goes with the Unimog and checking your bike. After another, yet again, delicious campsite breakfast, we head off into the yonder.
Along the route I run into these guys taking a break under the tree.
On the way to Epupa falls we stop at Swartbooisdrift to visit the Dorsland Trekkers Monument. If you are not familiar with it, this is a prime example of Afrikaner “hardegatheid” / stubbornness. As quoted on the Wikipedia page (which I am not sure is all factually correct), this sentence sums up part of the reason this group chose to move: “Despite the lack of wealth or education, the average Transvaal Boer felt very independent. This easily escalated into stubbornness and the reluctance or inability to accept the authority of others.” Wiki
It also reminds me of the famous sir Arthur Conan Boyle quote: “Take a community of Dutchmen of the type of those who defended themselves for fifty years against all the power of Spain at a time when Spain was the greatest power in the World. Intermix with them a strain of those inflexible French Huguenots who gave up home and fortune and left their Country forever at the time of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The product must obviously be one of the most rugged, virile, unconquerable races ever seen upon Earth. Take this formidable people and train them for seven generations in constant warfare against savage men and ferocious beasts, in circumstances under which no weakling could survive, place them so that they acquire exceptional skills with weapons and in horsemanship, give them a Country which is eminently suited to the tactics of the huntsman, the marksman and the rider. Then, finally, put a fine temper upon their military qualities by a dour fatalistic Old Testament religion and an ardent and consuming patriotism. Combine all of these qualities and all these impulses in one individual, and you have the modern Boer. The most formidable antagonist who ever crossed the path of Imperial Britain.”
― Arthur Conan Doyle, The Great Boer War
@hartebees gave us a history lesson at the monument, which was very insightful. Thanks Jaco!
From the hill we were standing on at the monument, we could now see the Kunene river in the valley below. What a sight, and what a feeling. Some members of the party had some complicated emotions to deal with as they stood there looking out over into Angola. The last time they were here, it was to enter Angola without a passport in a different time. Respect to you all.
Along the route I run into these guys taking a break under the tree.
On the way to Epupa falls we stop at Swartbooisdrift to visit the Dorsland Trekkers Monument. If you are not familiar with it, this is a prime example of Afrikaner “hardegatheid” / stubbornness. As quoted on the Wikipedia page (which I am not sure is all factually correct), this sentence sums up part of the reason this group chose to move: “Despite the lack of wealth or education, the average Transvaal Boer felt very independent. This easily escalated into stubbornness and the reluctance or inability to accept the authority of others.” Wiki
It also reminds me of the famous sir Arthur Conan Boyle quote: “Take a community of Dutchmen of the type of those who defended themselves for fifty years against all the power of Spain at a time when Spain was the greatest power in the World. Intermix with them a strain of those inflexible French Huguenots who gave up home and fortune and left their Country forever at the time of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The product must obviously be one of the most rugged, virile, unconquerable races ever seen upon Earth. Take this formidable people and train them for seven generations in constant warfare against savage men and ferocious beasts, in circumstances under which no weakling could survive, place them so that they acquire exceptional skills with weapons and in horsemanship, give them a Country which is eminently suited to the tactics of the huntsman, the marksman and the rider. Then, finally, put a fine temper upon their military qualities by a dour fatalistic Old Testament religion and an ardent and consuming patriotism. Combine all of these qualities and all these impulses in one individual, and you have the modern Boer. The most formidable antagonist who ever crossed the path of Imperial Britain.”
― Arthur Conan Doyle, The Great Boer War
@hartebees gave us a history lesson at the monument, which was very insightful. Thanks Jaco!
From the hill we were standing on at the monument, we could now see the Kunene river in the valley below. What a sight, and what a feeling. Some members of the party had some complicated emotions to deal with as they stood there looking out over into Angola. The last time they were here, it was to enter Angola without a passport in a different time. Respect to you all.
From here we leave the gravel highways behind, we won’t be seeing them for a while. We follow the road hugging the Kunene river, often transitioning onto twee spoor tracks closer to the river, as we move westwards. The river is in full flow and the sight of that much water in such an arid land is amazing.
On this road we encounter a camp site sitting on the Kunene river (think it is called Camp Cornie) and everyone dutifully stops for some very welcome & ice-cold refreshments. The mood is an odd mixture of excitement, relaxation, anticipation and accomplishment.
Finally we get to Epupa Falls Lodge and camp site, an oasis next to the mighty Kunene. It's relatively early in the afternoon and everyone goes about doing their thing like setting up camp, taking swim, congregating at the bar and taking a walk to the falls.
On this road we encounter a camp site sitting on the Kunene river (think it is called Camp Cornie) and everyone dutifully stops for some very welcome & ice-cold refreshments. The mood is an odd mixture of excitement, relaxation, anticipation and accomplishment.
Finally we get to Epupa Falls Lodge and camp site, an oasis next to the mighty Kunene. It's relatively early in the afternoon and everyone goes about doing their thing like setting up camp, taking swim, congregating at the bar and taking a walk to the falls.
Epupa falls!
Delinquents. All of them.
A very accurate depiction of the local Himba people.
Every self-respecting motorcycle rider will pose for a photo with his/her bike at some point.
My childhood dreams keep on being realised - tonight I sleep amongst an entire gaggle of bikes.
Delinquents. All of them.
A very accurate depiction of the local Himba people.
Every self-respecting motorcycle rider will pose for a photo with his/her bike at some point.
My childhood dreams keep on being realised - tonight I sleep amongst an entire gaggle of bikes.
A bar with a view...
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and what a warm evening it was at Epupa ... never thought I could stare so longingly at a simple stretcher.. 
and what a warm evening it was at Epupa ... never thought I could stare so longingly at a simple stretcher..
Indeed
The one thing that surprised me was that this was the only night where we didn't have any mosquitoes. I was expecting a full-on assault from the dastardly spawns of satan next to the water, but none of that happened.
