Damaraland & Kaokoland – Finally!

[Hardy de Kock]

Who is the weirdest guy you have ever met? Does that guy have the ability to crack you up without ever telling a joke?
Meet my friend Peter Siegling.

I met Peter a long time ago when I sold my brand new BMW suit. Unfortunately we lost touch after said sale but during the 2021 Honda Quest pre-qualifier event Peter showed up to show his skill and from what I understand the judges were very impressed.
Peter will be the first to tell you that too many people in the same room as him used to scare/intimidate him immensely. He has had treatment for this but it never really went away..
I was happy to see that Peter made the cut into the final 14 for the Honda Quest and I believe his life changed dramatically during the event. @hartebees and I had a chat the other day and we both agreed that if we do a trip again, Peter would be on our shortlist of invitees.
Fast forward to this tour. Peter and his XR650 R (one of the few ones that starts 1st kick hot or cold) traveled with us (the crew) to Namibia and we thoroughly enjoyed his company.

Peter has an innocence about him that makes you pay attention to what he says and does. I have one many occasion on this tour cracked a joke which did not immediately land. When it does Peter's eyes lights up and that is the part that I really enjoy.
Peter - you are one hell of a riding buddy and a hell of a friend. Your quirky way of doing things is refreshing and I can't wait to tour with you again

 

[Rooies]

Today the riding is going to be nothing less than epic. It’s got everything, from technical tweespoor routes, rocky hills to climb, even rockier descents to negotiate and lots of fun sand riding. I was thinking that Van Zyl’s was going to be the highlight, but it was all part of one, loong highlight.

We will be doing only about 70 km, but it will be one of the longest days per kilometre on the tour, our destination being Marble Camp. Putting it into perspective, we left camp at about 0830. A few kilometres into the route an hour had already passed when we encountered the first difficult section. We were all down Van Zyl’s just after 11:00. In total I don’t think this was more than 15km’s since we departed from camp that morning. Going through Marian Fluss and getting to Rooidrom took another hour. We had beers close to camp at 1300, taking into account we took many breaks along the way and also waited for everyone at the bottom of Van Zyl's to regroup.

As predicted by @Hardy de Kock the first section that will test your resolve is upon us shortly after leaving camp. @Gerryb , as mentioned earlier by someone the ride report, one of the nicest guys around, skillfully pilots his KTM through all obstacles, this one being no different. Gerry, however, is always there to help, and this is him climbing up the hill to come and assist some of the other riders.

Schalk had a minor spill here, but those rocks are unforgivable. As we got his bike up, I noticed a small patch of oil on the rocks. Aaaaargh, engine casing pierced. No worries, the Cruiser is just behind us and Hardy and co quickly patches up the bike.

Another peanut gallery moment. Patty, @P.K. , Schalk, @Gerryb & @Striggs.

We take it easy and appreciate the surrounding bush, @P.K. often found along the route meditating.

@Gerryb soaking up life.

@NIMMO & Rodger Dodger.

@Parkinoff

Johannes (wat is jou forumnaam?) and Fred. More lekker okes.

 

[Rooies]

Just before Van Zyl’s steps we regroup at a lookout, and what a lookout! Johannes points out to me that the red sand we see in the distance is in fact Marian Fluss, he is very excited for that part! But, before that, we need to take on the steps. Again, I am thinking how my phone camera cannot possibly capture the vastness and beauty of this special place. The phrase “Big Country” applies, for sure.

 

[Rooies]

As we reach the start of Van Zyl’s steps the more experienced riders traverse the descent and make it look easy. For other way more experienced guys, like Andries, the normal path isn’t enough, and he decides to descend next to the “official” tweespoor. With ease and elegance, he shows us amateurs what is possible on a bike. A super combination – skill, experience, and youth!

@Striggs pilots down the beast without much effort either. One by one the riders come down, with some having a spill, some taking it easy, others going for it, but all make it down in some way shape, or form. @hartebees coached me down this particular section, his instructions being clear and concise. I remember asking a question about a step and sort of suggesting an alternative approach. His prompt response was: “Nee ou, as jou gaan moet jy commit!”, meaning that if you are in you are in, you must commit, boy’tjie!

Here you can see vehicles that have been abandoned after rolling down the pass. Apparently, there are a few more scattered in the ravines below. We also passed an abandoned trailer on the way up. No speedy recovery from your local roadside-assist here, nee meneer.

The peanut gallery, as always, enjoying it when other peoples' lives flash before their eyes The support was great, every time. Thanks, you lekker people!

 

[Rooies]

This descent is surely more difficult with a car, but for the boys behind the wheels, this was not their first rodeo.

 

[BuRP]

Dit kom, dit kom! Ek skryf weer vanmiddag/vanaand, staan nou einde se kante toe.
Hoe lyk daardie gewrig?

Lekker, ek geniet jou skywery!
Pols weer amper reg om op n bike te klim

 

[petri oosthuizen]

BAIE BAIE nice Roux thanks!!!
Hardy, daai S/Cab Cruiser 'n V6/V8/1HZ?? Nice Bakkie!!

 

[Rooies]

We are all down safely and regroup under a tree in the company of a bunch of Himba kids, eyeing us and probably thinking we are stupid. I think they are correct.

Marian Fluss awaits. I knew I was going to encounter special places, and this was another one of them. Riding-wise, the entire trip eased you into each next phase. If I had had to encounter the previous day on day one, it would have been a disaster. If Marian Fluss was thrown at me on day one, yet another challenge. However, I was now finding my sand-feet properly. Yes, I did venture off the beaten track on a few of the bends, but the XR650L saved me. That, combined with @hartebees ‘s sage words to me of: “Let the suspension do its work…”. Now was that a revelation (rookie!)…

For perspective, the first image below shows Van Zyl’s pass and to the west you can see the red sand that is Marian Fluss. The second screen grab zooms out somewhat and reveals how close we are to the Atlantic Ocean and the Angolan border.

 

[frankmac]

@NIMMO & Rodger Dodger.

View attachment 776230

Ha, now there's another familiar South Coast face.

 

[Hardy de Kock]

BAIE BAIE nice Roux thanks!!!
Hardy, daai S/Cab Cruiser 'n V6/V8/1HZ?? Nice Bakkie!!

V8

 

[Rooies]

Next up, Marian Fluss, a quick stop at Rooidrom and then our destination, Marble Camp. The riding is fun and the views are breath-taking.

Andries enjoying himself:






Rooidrom

 

[Rooies]

It is quite noticeable that when you are able to find anything resembling a shop/shebeen that the only consistent product to be found is from SAB. Not even the WHO has been able to sort out health care logistics in that area, but you are sure to find a Zamalek. This was one of the better ones.

@ETS takes us to the old marble mine for some sight seeing:

My riverbed chalet for the night:

 

[bowmansharonlee]

Mmmmm- thank you Hardy. You flatter me--- but then, if you told the truth, we would end in court But, seriously. Thank you. Chantelle, Alan, Sharon Jaco (Hartebees) If anyone, ever, wants to do this trip, i would not hesitate to encourage them!

Was a pleasure meeting you ETS

 

[BuRP]

Was a pleasure meeting you ETS

Welcome here Sharon!

Now before Hardy will add his bits let me squeeze in mine, and now:
Hardy had told me that 'a' couple would join in their car to see what's what, not wanting to do this on a bike.
So I was expecting to meet a biking couple - of which I know a few. Not the Colours Tattood Pierced HT (Half Tractor) types mind, quite the opposite in fact, so let's see...
Well, opposites they were!
A beige cruiser bakkie (Petri: 1HZ ) rocks up with Allan in khaki shorts met altyd kamaste, and Sharon quite alike in fitting attire - that's a couple of normal boere for you, and naturally I immediately rattled in Afrikaans to them, in fact I think all did, dis mos lekker Vrystaters die!
Eh no, lekker Natallers they turned out, but laglag vlot Afrikaans ook, plus the nicest two people too.... so yeah, somewhere here that old adage of 'assume' applies here, the emphasis of ass & me definitely
They crewed, ever helpful - and, actually to my surprise, they drove the full route we did, Van Zyls & riverbeds & all - well done maatjies, sal beslis ook by julle draai as ek myself weer in Loxton vind!

 

[Rooies]

The 7th day of the tour will see us ride from Marble Camp to Purros, one of the most beautiful places on earth. Our ride will take us through the Othija plains and into the Khumib river for an extended distance where we follow the river, climbing in and out as we make our way towards Purros.

Up until this day you will see my bike has a fully functional and intact screen and two working mirrors. More on that a bit later…

Morning activity with crew efficiently stowing away the equipment and provisions that has us eating lekker breakfasts and dinners to hearts content. Welcome here, Alan & Sharon ( @bowmansharonlee ), it was great meeting and touring with you!

Today we will also encounter our first “Lone Men of Kaokoland”. These enigmatic stone sculptures are found here in this greater area, the artist remaining unknown. Read more about this mystery here: https://tasda.co.za/2019/12/08/lone-men-of-kaokoland/

This is the first time that we will ride for prolonged periods of time in a riverbed. This is a new experience for me. I have gotten more comfortable with shorter sections of deep riverbed sand, but now I am navigating turns and avoiding rocks and lurkers (see @hartebees , I’m picking up the lingo). After a bit of nerves, I find my rhythm and really start to enjoy the sand riding. I get the hang of plaining on top of the sand and revel in my new-found skill.

@BuRP

See the beautiful screen extension...

I exit the river at one stage and encounter a gulley with a fesh-fesh filled tweespoor. If I am to guess what happened next it is that I hit something under the fesh-fesh which turned my wheel into the side of the spoors’ rut. This sends me flying over the handlebars, hitting the earth with my shoulder, and in short, val ek my gat af . As I hit the ground the fesh-fesh explodes as if someone threw a hand grenade in a pit filled with cake flour. I try to sit up, I can’t see anything through my visor. I try to wipe off the sand, and still see nothing, only to realise the fesh-fesh has covered the inside of my helmet as well, it is everywhere! My shoulder is immediately sore, and I struggle to get the helmet off as I spit out sand from my mouth. As I do so, @hartebees arrives and immediately takes calm control of the situation. Johan is also there and makes sure I am okay.

You get a good skrik after a fall like this and you don’t necessarily think straight. I want to help get the bike up but Jaco makes me sit down, ensures that I get my hat on to protect against the sun and tells me to have some water and take a break. I hear him contacting Hardy on the radio and softly says: “Roux het HARD geval”. The Cruisers arrive soon afterwards, everyone is concerned and very helpful.

All in all I am okay. Sore, but not broken. I am, however, shaken. My screen is broken and Hardy calls it saying we need to see if the bike will start. It doesn’t. Again I want to help but Hardy, Alan and Jaco will have none of it. They want me to relax. They do some fault finding and establish that the fall dislodged one of the battery cables from the terminals. They fix it up and after some recuperation time Hardy insists that I not ride alone, I stay with the Cruiser. I gladly oblige as Sharon continuously health-checks me.

Thanks to all who helped me there!

Scene of the crime:

@Hardy de Kock , @hartebees & Alan (@bowmansharonlee 's husband). See the nice screen now...

 

[hartebees]

As I hit the ground the fesh-fesh explodes as if someone threw a hand grenade in a pit filled with cake flour.

Very good description! Johan, who was riding behind you, said that he saw you going into the dust cloud but you never came out again!

Roux, toe ek jou sien was jy asvaal. Vaal van die stof en vaal geskrik. Hierdie fesh-fesh ruts kan jou laat val op 'n manier dat jy glad nie weet hoe dit gebeur het nie.

 

[OomD]

fesh-fesh = fine sand?

 

[hartebees]

I gladly oblige as Sharon continuously health-checks me.

Another shout-out to @bowmansharonlee and her care. I struggled on this day due to successive exhausting days and whenever I saw her she checked in to see how I was doing and offering sweets, rehidrats and cooldrinks to keep me going. I was very thankful for her help. She was the REAL sweeper.

At this point of the trip it becomes essential to look out for any signs of exhaustion in yourself or fellow riders because you can start making bad decisions when this sets in. Everybody is tired to a greater or lesser degree after a week of riding in these hot conditions. There are some tell tale signs that should never be ignored - Hardy has taught me a lot in this regard. On this day I was mumbling into the radio and that immediately put me on the special care list for the day, and rightfully so.

 

[Hardy de Kock]

fesh-fesh = fine sand?

Dink aan dit as 'n hinderlaag van 'n hele paar ton sement poeier met diep gate (lees grafte) voor jou in die pad.

 

[BuRP]

fesh-fesh = fine sand?

Lyk soos sand maar is bruin talcum-powder!
Dis die boonste laag modder in n rivier wat laaste droog word, en kan net n muskiet dra - eene wat nog nie bloed gesuig het nie, want anderste sak hy weg in daai goed