Elands Bay & Komsberg with the Gogga

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tok-tokkie

Race Dog
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
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Location
Cape Town
Bike
Yamaha TW200
My son Anton & I went on a two day trip north of Cape Town this past weekend.  I call my bike the Gogga

Saturday    Cape Town to Elands Bay.  284 km    5h38m

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Our only plan was to ride up the dead-end road along the foot of the Olifantsrivierberge which starts just north of Porterville.  Slingsby (Cederbeg â?? the map. Peter Slingsby) shows this road ending with a No Entry symbol & my old Engen South African road atlas also shows it as being a dead-end so we were prepared to go up, turn around & come back down.  That would make it a really local road & it could be interesting.  Turns out they are both wrong & you can easily get through to the N7.

We had a leasurly start at 11h00 with the wind howling but we expected it to be less along the foot of the mountains & that is how it turned out.  The standard Malanâ??s hoogte & wind generators route to Riebeek-Kasteel route out of town.  All three wind turbines were standing still even though there was a really strong wind blowing & I have only ever seen one working in the last year.  Presumably the things are paid for so it would be almost free electricity if Eskom could just get them to work and yet next day we went past the massive gas turbine plant in Atlantis which was burning really expensive diesel to make really expensive electricity. I have done a little research on them; the wind turbines are 0,66 0,75 & 1,75 MW whereas each (of 6) steam turbine at one of the big coal stations is 600MW to 660MW.  In total the wind turbines amount to 0,01% of peak power capacity.  The four gas turbines at Atlantis are 150MW each.  If you look when you are there you will see that there are no big power lines joining the wind turbines to the grid.

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Had a beer and â??bitterbolleâ?? at the hotel in Riebeek Kasteel  then on to Zonquasdrift to cross the Berg river. Zonquasdrift is an interesting name; it turns out to be the Koi-San (Bushmen) who raided these parts when the Dutch first settled thereabouts.  The gravel ends just after that & we had a short slog on tar up to Gouda and then 37 kms of tar up to Porterville.  Just north of Porterville we branched off onto the gravel road that leads to the Dasklip pass and Beaverlac and on to our expected dead-end.  Anton used to work in Johannesburg but came down for a long weekend in August last year.  I hired a KLR and the two of use went on two day rides in the Swartland.  He has ridden for many years and was a courier in London for a while but he had not done the gravel roads thing before this.  We went up Dasklip Pass then when I took this photo.

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The photo shows the turn off to Dasklip with the road we went along continuing to the right all along the foot of the Olifantsrivierberge.  In the background is the Piketberg which we also went up (Versveld Pass) that day and we were to go past it later today just to the north and again the following day but then behind it (west).  Right in the distance are the mountains which have the Olifants River, Citrusdal and Clanwilliam on the other side.  We came along the top of those and down Piekernierâ??s pass the following day.  The fields were all green in August but they were bare brown earth this last weekend.

We followed the road right up to the end.  It was a bit bumpy in places & my Zumo kept switching off which made me think of the problems Ratrap has been having with his.  Because of his report I greased the connections on mine with dielectric grease before we left and got this problem for the first time except for one very wet day during winter.  It cut out about four times so I left it until we reached the end & it started automatically when I started the bike & has continued trouble free since then. 

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Here is Anton at the dead-end.  Just a few meters back there was a road leading west in the direction of the N7.  This was a surprise so we looked at the 1:250 000 map & it showed a dashed red road going there which connects through to the N7.  Slingsby marks it as a â??private road â?? no entryâ? but it turned out to be a bigger & better road than the one we had come on.  We joined the N7 then turned off west a few kms later to Eendekuil.  There did not seem to be any old buildings in Eendekuil with the church representative of most of the buildings.

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We decided to go to the coast at Elands Bay and spend the night there.  We had brought a change of clothes with this option in mind. We took the gravel road between the railway and river towards Elands Bay.

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After about 20 km you join the main Piketberg to Elands Bay road which is tarred in places.  It runs alongside the Verlorenvlei  river

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Here is the Verlorenvlei.  I was pleased to see it had so much water as I heard it was suffering from all the water being pumped onto the pivot irrigation schemes â?? this is a major potato growing region now.  That must make many DS riders quake because potatoes like sandy soil and DS riders of my skill hate sandy roads.  I am scared of the Sandveld & the Sandveld starts once you cross the Berg river but I knew that this road is a hard gravel road.  Little did I know that the next day I would be right in serious Sandveldt  roads.

Elands Bay is at the mouth of the vlei.  I am a lapsed surfer.  This is a place I came to on a few day trips.  In surfing someone who surfs with his right foot forward is said to be  Goofy footed (similar to boxing where the less common right foot forward stance is called south-paw).  Jeffryâ??s Bay is the best right break in the country but it is back-hand for Goofys (wave is breaking over their shoulder) whereas Elands is forehand for a Goofy (it is a left break) which means a Goofy is facing the wave while he surfs which is much nicer.  Elands is the best left in the country.  I actually did a niche type of surfing called kneeboarding which is half way between squirming like a baby on a body-board and standing like a walking adult; kinda like crawling I suppose.  Thing is we donâ??t have forehand or backhand problems.  Anton is a Goofy footer.  We rode around looking for the two self catering/B & B places but they were both locked up.  I suspect they are open during the December holiday period & through winter for the surfers (surfing is a winter sport; you canâ??t surf if there are no waves & that is pretty much the case during summer).

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That may look like a wave but it is just the shore break as this is a bit of a telephoto picture.  The surf ride starts at the kelp just below the sun & runs all along the shore  along the upper edge of the water in the picture.  This was a summer day & there was no swell running so you canâ??t see any waves there.  On a good day this place is perfection â?? but crowded as it is an easy day trip from Cape Town.

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This is looking the other way; you can see here that the waves were small.  Still it is a lovely piece of unspoiled beach looking this way.  We ended up in the hotel which was fine.  Had some beers & a bottle of wine with supper.

 
I thought there was something Goofy about the pass picture - looked a bit green for this time of the year.

I suspect there is a continuation on the way.......

at least I hope there is ???
 
Great reporting as always ...super stuff to read !!
 
Spoggerig,sommer spoggerig. Volgende keer hou so bietjie langer aan na Doringbaai. Die einaar(George) van die pub Midons (net 2 pubs op die dorp) het `n fris pony in die garage en is `n groot bike fanatic.
 
Sunday.    Elands Bay to Cape Town  426 km  7h31m

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After breakfast we got going at 9h45.  I had seen on the Slingsby map a road running along the crest of the mountains that form the southern side of the Olifants river valley which I wanted to explore.  Last night we had decided to go and do that & had programmed it into the Zumo.  It was the first time I had managed to program a route with via points directly into the Zumo (it is easy to do on a computer with Mapsource but I had not been able to do it directly into the Zumo before; you just need a bit of time & no rush to get the hang of it & that is what we had done the previous evening while drinking beers at the hotel.)

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Elandâ??s bay from the hotel with the camping site in the foreground.  Those windbreak trees are interesting.  I for years thought they were a variation on a melkhout but later found out they are an Australian tree.  Very hardy and about the only trees to do well in these tough conditions.

First place was to be Lambertâ??s Bay. The Sishen/Saldanha railway line runs down the coast here; there is a very good service road alongside this line which I used when I went surfing in Elands but so many vehicles were using it that the Railways have erected booms & you have to buy a permit to use it now.  We gave that road a miss and took the slightly longer good gravel route via Leopoldtville (road just misses the village so I canâ??t tell you anything about it).  We filled up in Lambertâ??s Bay.

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Lambertâ??s Bay is a commercial fishing port devoid of character.  There is Bird Island where thousands of Gannets breed but we did not check it out this time.  I did like the old brick chimney of the canning factory; largely hidden in this photo.

Out to Graafwater but I donâ??t remember if it was tar or gravel â?? tar I think.  Did a turn around Graafwater just as the few people were walking home from the church.  Mostly 50â??s & 60â??s buildings.  The main route is Lambertâ??s Bay to Clanwilliam but we branched off northwards on a good gravel road leading to Vredendal.  After 12 km we turned left to get onto the start of the mountain ridge we wanted to ride along.

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At the start there was a thin covering of sand on the road before we got onto the ridge itself.  On top of the ridge we met the road running to Skurfkop to the north but we went south.  This was the start of the road I was interested in.  It turned out to be a really good road running all along the top of the ridge right down to the N7 at Piekeniers Pass, along the way it crosses the Clanwilliam/Lambertâ??s Bay tar road and later on the Citrusdal/Elandâ??s Bay road.  Almost all of it is gravel but they are busy tarring a section towards the Piekeniers Kloof Pass.

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Anton on the Skurfkop section.

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Further along the Skurfkop road with the Cederberg on the other side of the Olifants river.

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Panorama of the Cederberg.

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Where the gravel road joins the Clanwilliam/Lambertâ??s road.  We saw not a single vehicle on the whole of the run along the ridge to Piekenierâ??s Kloof except at this tar road.

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On the Komsberg road.  The mountain after the tar road is labeled Komsberg so I called this bit of road that.

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A bit further along.

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More further.

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Zooming in a bit.

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Panorama.

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Along the way you cross a shallow valley with a citrus farm.  Up until then it had been rooibos fields with a lovely smell of rooibos as we passed one of the farmsteads.  This valley is the headwaters of the river that goes to Lambertâ??s Bay.  This is the section that is being tarred.  The owner of the farm, Elandsfontein, was probably some local potentate as the road had obviously been tarred in front of the farm many years ago & now it is being extended down to the N7 at Marcuskraal.

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Here the road splits; we carry straight on towards Piekenierskloof on the road less travelled.

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After a while it turns to tar just before the N7 at the top of Piekenierskloof pass.  In the background are the mountains we rode alongside yesterday.

 
We went to the new big lodge for a beer and a bite to eat.  Despite it being quite a â??fancyâ?? place & us being two dusty bikers we were made very welcome.  Piekeniers is an odd name; I assumed something to do with a picnic but my wife tells me it is from the Dutch for a pikeman.

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Statue to an English pikeman.  Many wore armour; the stabbing/scything/hooking weapon is the pike.  You would need armour to protect against a poisoned arrow from a little concealed local but it would be impossible to walk around this area in armour.  I wonder what happened.

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This is Piketberg from the top of Piekeniers Pass.  Eendekuil is at the left foreground somewhere.  We went to Eendekuil then west along the same road as yesterday but soon turned south to pass on the west of Piketberg â?? on the right in the picture.

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It is a good hard gravel road across the flats then there is a surprising little pass â?? Kapteinskloof â?? where the road goes over the ridge behind the telegraph pole in the photo.

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The descent is loose in places and there are some sandy patches on the far side.  You soon join the Veldrif/Piketberg road.  We turned & rode 6km towards Veldrif then turned south again on a 25km sandy road leading to the bridge at Bergriver railway siding.

Anton & I are new to this Adventure bike riding & sand is a real monster for us but we just turned up the wick & ran those 25kms in the 90s all the way.  My gps has a max of 101kph and a min of86kph except when I stopped half way to be certain Anton was still following.  We were pretty excited to have done that.  This is not deep sand like that in which Camelman sunk to his axle the day before on a different ride but it was much more than a light covering on a firm gravel base.  This is the Berg River flood plain after all.

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This is the bridge over the Berg at Kersfontein (the local farm).  Picture taken on an earlier trip.  The Berg is still tidal this far up from the coast.  This is the second last bridge over the Berg; the last being in Veldrif. 

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A bit more gravel leads to Hopefield with this smart church.  Hopefield is an odd sort of name for the area:  the town originated as a â??kerkdorpâ?? in 1852 when it was called Zoute Rivier, it was soon renamed after the two government officials, Maj. William Hope (auditor-general) and the surveyor Mr. Field, who were involved in its foundation.  Although it was established as a church town (separate from Malmsbury) it took until 1879 to raise the money and build the church.  The church was much enlarged and altered in 1911.

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From there we went towards Malmsbury for 14 km on tar then turned towards Darling on a gravel/sand road.  This road runs alongside the railway most of the way.

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We had tried to go down this road in August when Anton first rode a DS bike (hired KLR)  and had a lot of fun in the mud â?? very different conditions this time.  The lovely variety of seasons here in the Cape.

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We were unable to get through then because this bridge was deep under water & we watched a farm truck go over with the water level to the upper part of the wheel rims.  Today it was all different & there was more sand in several places.  We filled up in Darling and went home via Mamre with the wind about half as strong as it had been when we left.


 
Stunning trip report, brings back great memories of a trip I did in that area. I remember paying R5 at the boom on that particular dirt road that runs next to the railway track en route to Elands Bay. And Scheryl, the skinny but huge boobed owner of the local bush pub in Elands Bay that bought a bottle of Captain Morgan from me as she had run out, who then proceeded to sell it back to me in tots with lots of ice.  And the Crayfish was R7.50 and half a beer each from Johan, the local crayfish thief, sold from across the road from the Paternoster Panties bar, so named as the first guests were a wedding couple and the bride traded her g-string for the night's accomodation. OMG i sound like a whenwe.
 
Excellent report Tok-tokkie.Drop me a line if you need company on exploring roads overnighting somewhere .Its what I enjoy most about DS riding,Especially if there is a little history behind the places we vissit.!
Funny u should do this trip , as I had it planned 3 weeks earlier,well the Hopefield Elandsbaai part of it anyway
 
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