Explore Bali ride March 2017

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tifua

Race Dog
Joined
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Location
Johannesburg
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BMW R1200GS Adventure
Not your typical African adventure ride report...In Indonesia to pick up my order of Kopi Luwak and while its being ordered, decided to do some riding in one of my most favorite places to explore. The island of Bali. Came scouting some routes for future tours and took 3 days to explore some basic route with SWAMBO in car....now is the time to take bike and ride them and test them. I looked at renting big bikes but decided, this time I will go native and do it on a scooter. Several reasons for this including cost (R150 per day vs R1000); blend in more with locals (big bikes stand out and this is good and bad thing); big bike offers no advantage in these roads (maximum speeds you can do; places you can explore; parts and repairs in remote areas). I watched a local lady ride up a dirt path on a hill with 2 kids and a baby on a scooter following a steep footpath I would struggle to get a KDX up solo. There is a road I did in the Terios that I'm going to do on the scooter which is a winding road up from the inside of a volcano crater out over the rim and down a long winding road to the coast. Its the local "Sani Pass". I am looking to offer tours to Indonesia that includes bike tours and want to offer variety to cater for all budgets so this is why I have to eat my own dog food. This ride report will be the result of my scouting trip condensed and I hope you will enjoy it. If any of you are considering a trip to the Far East please contact me about Indonesia. Its an incredible beautiful and very affordable place for family friendly holidays. I have been lucky enough to travel a lot and keep coming back to Indonesia. I will add pictures as I go along and will, at the end of the report, include some mixed pictures of Indonesia for reference.
 
The hotel I will start from. Value for money here is great and their cost / currency is similar to us so its easier to convert. Their currency is Rupiah and around 13400 Rupiah to a USD. Similar to our R13 to the $1. So when you are here, just knock off 3 numbers to get the ZAR price. Below hotel is picture of my adventure machine. Honda Vario. Dont judge, as I said right tool for the right job
 

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I'm going to follow this one with great interest!!  I'm definitely looking forward to visiting Bali.  :sip:

Happy riding!
 
Also following this report with interest. Taking the family to Bali in May & want to do a little riding.
 
Lekker man. There are thousands of those scooters on the island and they are used for transporting everything ... and I mean everything.
My son lives in Bali and we did a week of riding there last year Septemberish. What a jol!
Looking foward to the rest of your RR
 
Ride report - day 1...

Ok so the right tool for the right job needed changing. Tried the scooter and bugger that. Kept looking for the footpegs, grabbing "clutch" showed me how sharp scooters can brake... auto gearbox kind of nice but for the "Sani" part i dont want to learn on the go. Called the rental company and arranged to get something a bit more "shifting spanner" than a size 10. Hour later I was on the road on a KLX150. Bit under powered but you cant find many places here where extra power or speed will serve you. I have seen many of the attractions here on previous trips so this one was focused on route scouting.

Hit the road and apart from the loud pipe (common on rental bikes...I asked them why and they give me the usual performance nonsense, eventually admitting it keeps riders from over revving or racing because as the exhaust gets louder and not having rev counter you ride more sedately.). Usual hidden 1 ways had me turn around and be followed by 100's of cars and bikes like a scene from "Asian Mad Max". Roads are almost perfect, hardly a pot hole and cars are 150% aware of you and all bikes. Indonesians grow up riding from toddlers so that carries over when they drive cars. You will be fine, they are infinitely patient and pulling up at robots doesn't draw any attention or unwelcome "smousing". Route was from Legian (main tourist area) through north Kuta and along the smaller roads to Tabanan then Selemadeg before turning inwards and heading north along back roads to the small town of Lorvina on the northen side of Bali. Weather was hot and humid (80%) but when you're moving its bearable and I timed it to hit the mountains around midday so the heat of the day would be less with mountain cool air and dense jungle foliage. The ride north started almost immediately to drawn you into the life in these small rice farming villages and towns. Sweeping rice terraces, small shops, beautiful decorated houses and the throngs of daily life with people moving up and down on scooters and trucks. Welcoming smiles and perfect roads with scenery that takes your breath away around every bend is why I love riding here. Smart phone ver heated in the pouch and I ended up missing my turn and as all of you know, the wrong roads are almost always the best way. Roads got narrower till they were almost only bike lanes and I found myself going deep into valley forrests with evergreen trees all around me almost seeming to follow the shape of the winding jungle roads. Trees that go up for what seems like miles and ending in a thick jungle canopy with small waterfalls running down moss covered rocks just adds to the feeling that you are alone with your bike and thoughts. Stopped to take in the views on the mountain tops and get some water in before carrying on. Found a road that would take me back onto the road I planned to be on... but then saw a road heading left. I went left and followed it through to a small village in a valley with rice fields on each side. Stunning. Stopped and just sat looking at the mountains and the laughter of kids playing in paddy fields.
 
Followed the hill side road leading out of the vlllage and road onwards towards the coast. As you get closer to the coastline and main roads, houses are less decorated, roads become more chaotic and you need to up your game to stay alert on the roads. Lots of traffic and activity. Hit the main coastal road and turned right heading to my stop over for the night. Arrived hot and sweaty and with an ass harder than Chinese Algebra, I checked in. Few min after unpacking, a shower, change of clothes, put devices on charge and off to dinner. After dinner I checked emails, made some notes on lessons learnt, traced my route so I can come back on it next time and then off to bed.

Now the part everybody skips over to get to.. the pics :)
 

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more pics
 

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some of the hotel...now leaving to ride day 2 route...more pics to follow
 

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Sailorman said:
Also following this report with interest. Taking the family to Bali in May & want to do a little riding.

Let me know if you need any help. SWAMBO is Indonesian Chinese and and drive mean bargains. Every cent saved helps
 
tifua said:
Sailorman said:
Also following this report with interest. Taking the family to Bali in May & want to do a little riding.

Let me know if you need any help. SWAMBO is Indonesian Chinese and and drive mean bargains. Every cent saved helps

Thanks for the offer Tifua sounds like a plan. We staying at Temple Lodge & then slumming it here https://www.villabatujimbar.com/the-locale/ for the 1st week & then moving on to Nusa Lembongan to surf Shipwrecks for a week. Want to get into the countryside & see the temples, forests, etc with my boys so will probably need 3 or 4 bikes for a couple of days just to do day trips. As far as I can determine there is no bike/scooter hire on Nusa Lembongan.
 
Sailorman said:
tifua said:
Sailorman said:
Also following this report with interest. Taking the family to Bali in May & want to do a little riding.

Let me know if you need any help. SWAMBO is Indonesian Chinese and and drive mean bargains. Every cent saved helps

Thanks for the offer Tifua sounds like a plan. We staying at Temple Lodge & then slumming it here https://www.villabatujimbar.com/the-locale/ for the 1st week & then moving on to Nusa Lembongan to surf Shipwrecks for a week. Want to get into the countryside & see the temples, forests, etc with my boys so will probably need 3 or 4 bikes for a couple of days just to do day trips. As far as I can determine there is no bike/scooter hire on Nusa Lembongan.

Will see what I can do. Dates? Any preference on bike ie scooter or KLX or road bike. How many bikes and how long you need them? Drop me email on [email protected]
 
Day 2: Woke up and headed to th breakfast. Good strong cup of Bali coffee and western breakfast saw me start the day. Wanted to keep my hands on the handle bars more I relied on my GoPro to take pics between video but results are mixed and a bit of a let down so not many pictures for this ride. Annoying. After breakfast I talked to the manager about his custom cafe racer before checking out and heading to petrol station to fill up the KLX. Took a small road going south away from the coast and heading straight towards the mountains. Almost immediately the scenery changed and I was again in the middle of rice terraces and small communities. Glance over my shoulder, after a few sharp bends and steep inclines, to see the ocean and town of Lorvina behind me. Stunning. A few adjustments on my route found me following a road to the 3 lakes area. This road should be called "road of a 1000 bends"... wow. This one road would make the whole trip worth it. Stunning roads, breathtaking views, villages, temples, shops, smiling people, roads the go down sharply into valleys with bridges and waterfalls. People at work, school children smiling as they walk home, old people sitting and talking. km after km, curve after jungle lined curve, going higher and higher. Through a welcome mist I broke through into clear cool air and either side of me the valleys seem to go on forever. At the top of a ride I am by the 3 lakes area and stop to stretch legs and take in the view.

Back on bike I head down to GitGit and onto small town called Singaraja where I will charge devices, get snack and take next break. Ride down the hill was a rush and real motard country. Sharp bends has you grabbing brakes and then accelerating out. Was a rush..scenery was just as beautiful in between over taking and going down through the mist band again. Arrived in Singaraja and the coffee shop I went to in March last year closed down so stopped at small bakery to ask for another coffee shop location. They went to the back, got kettle and made me coffee and plugged in my devices to charge. I spent hour there chatting to them all as they did stock takes and it was nice break to the ride. Back on the road through the traffic of a big town and you need to be aware. Again, turning off main road and heading inwards. Again, few km away and you are in mountains and jungles and rice fields. Words and pics dont convey...it has to be seen in person. Upwards and at the top through another mist band and I am riding on the rim of a volcano looking down into the crater below with small town in the middle. Light rain and lots of hussling as I drive through this small town before turning inwards and following road down into the crater. Nearly cooked a corner which would have helped me get to bottom in about 5 seconds instead of  5 min so eased off a bit. Road winds through old hardened lava fields with their big rocks and small quarries that cut it up into blocks like local marble. Fish farms, small farms and a section of mountain burnt away where you can see the the lava path from previous eruption. Warning signs all over... few turns and I am in middle of small town outskirts.

Stopped for fuel from hand cranked pump I start chatting to locals one of which is a local hiking guide. She offers to show me the way over the hill towards my next stop, Tulamben. I follow her and her cousin on an old scooter and the road starts to go up at such a steep angle I found myself shifting forward fearing my heavy backpack will cause me to flip over....and here they just cruise up on this beat up old scooter. Riding from age of 3 and passengers from baby makes them naturals on these bikes and terrain. Watched this one kid that is so small he pulls up slower and slower and then pushes down the stand and almost pivots bike onto it so he can get on and off. At the top of the hill I meet her uncle and group of people from the small villages around the hills. This dirt 4 way cross road is the end-of-the-day meeting point for people it seems. Some pics with the guide and her family and I begin my quick but incredible ride down the other side of the volcano on winding small roads with views that makes you stop and just stand there awe struck. Coast stretches out in front of me and after 15 min of amazing riding down where I got to really throw the little KLX around,found me back on the coast road. Turned right and headed to my hotel, checking in hot tired sweaty and completely alive. Shower, dinner then early night.
 
Pics from day 2
 

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Dammit. Here I'm sitting at work and I have to look at THIS!! It's disgusting!  :xxbah:

Well, I'm sold completely, will probably be your first customer, depending on time and cost, as I have a major expedition towards the end of the year to finance first.

That looks like a heck of a trip  :ricky:
 
Hell and I was looking at a Bali tour yesterday. This is awesome, following this thread.
 
tifua said:
Sailorman said:
tifua said:
Sailorman said:
Also following this report with interest. Taking the family to Bali in May & want to do a little riding.

Let me know if you need any help. SWAMBO is Indonesian Chinese and and drive mean bargains. Every cent saved helps

Thanks for the offer Tifua sounds like a plan. We staying at Temple Lodge & then slumming it here https://www.villabatujimbar.com/the-locale/ for the 1st week & then moving on to Nusa Lembongan to surf Shipwrecks for a week. Want to get into the countryside & see the temples, forests, etc with my boys so will probably need 3 or 4 bikes for a couple of days just to do day trips. As far as I can determine there is no bike/scooter hire on Nusa Lembongan.

Will see what I can do. Dates? Any preference on bike ie scooter or KLX or road bike. How many bikes and how long you need them? Drop me email on [email protected]
We getting there 26th May. Probably just a scooter as we'll probably just do day trips into the interior & only when there isn't any surf. It seems the norm just to get the Lodge or Villa to organize. Prices seem around R50-70 per day each. Does that seem about right? Also confirmed with the villa owner that we can hire on Nusa Lembongan.
Really enjoying your ride report. Makes me even more lus to get there
 
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