Kalahari: I get it now!

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Stofstreep

Race Dog
Joined
Nov 28, 2006
Messages
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Location
Pretoria
Bike
NER-A-CAR
I've long wondered about the fascination that the Kalahari have with people.
I've seen sunning photos and great images, but have not there myself. It all seemed a bit Over popularized to me.

Well the first week of October saw me in Botswana on very short notice, but luckily I was able to take the bike with.
Therefore:
1. This is NOT a ride report per say, as a lot of kilometres was done with the bakkie too.
2. Work was the primary focus and sight seeing came second, and thus not a lot of pics were taken.

I will add the tracks of all the days on to this topic.

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I had to visit 62 sites that are spread across the entire southern half of Botswana, to check the condition of the roads and location on site for the dropping of Telecommunication containers.
The total distance travel in 8 days was about 5000km of which I did about 1200km with the bike.

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The trip was quite eventful as I needed to get a site about 80km south-west of Hukuntsi, but the road was under construction and the track being used was in such a bad shape, as the Calcrete rock formed potholes filled with Fesh-fesh type dust. I got stuck twice in 5km and struggled 1,5h each time to get it out. Luckily there was people that came to my rescue the second time otherwise I might still be there.

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From Hukuntsi I needed to get to Tsabong for an overnight stop then on to Bokspits the next day.
Looking at the GPS I saw a road from Logwabe right past the Kgalagadi National Park to Tsabong that is about 250k and might be a bit sandy. The other alternative was to go back to Kang then to Khakkhea and onto Tsabong which is most lightly a good gravel or tar road, but is a 500km trip. As it was 12:00 already, I decided for the shorter distance.
The road soon turned into thick sand with several tracks. The bakkie wasn't doing to bad, but was working very hard with the bike on the back aswell. About 80km into the trip the sand started to form whoops that quickly threw the bike around on the back. one off these dislodged the Fork-saver, and I stopped to re-strap the bike. As I switched off the bakkie, my eye caught the heat gauge. :eek: It was way over the max!!!! Popped the bonnet, but luckily nothing has yet boiled from the radiator. As I stood there stressing, the water started coming out! :eek:  OH NO!!!!! quickly started the Bakkie and put the fan on full and heater at high. Strapped the bike and got moving again. Achingly slowly the temperature started dropping, and I had to drive a lot more conservatively to not labour the engine to much. AND I STILL HAVE TO DO ABOUT 130km OF THIS!!! :eek:
To cut a long story short, I made it, but I have not had so much stress and concentration in one day. Needless to say I slept like a babe that evening.

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Although Botswana is a very beautiful country, about 80% of the place look all the same. You really have to get the out-of-the-way places to really get the most out of your trip. I therefore recommend the road from Middelputs to Tweereviere all along the RSA/Botswana border as a route to be taken. The road is under construction but is nearly completed and only portions still have detours. I still need to check but for a long way there is a road right on the border on the SA side looks like a good gravel road.

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At Middelputs I left my Bakkie at the Police station and took the bike to a village called Khawa, about 80km North-west of Middelputs.
MAN! What an awesome experience. Midnight Oil's - Bullroarer will always remind me of this road. The road runs North, parallel between the Grass covered dunes and later turns west and crosses the dunes. This results in a road that have these long, yet steepish undulations that makes the front wheel lift in 5th with just a little bit of throttle.

Gradually the grass thinned out and relieved the red sand dunes underneath. Coming around this one big dune, Khawa stretched out before me all along the dune. Oh! What a sight!
After I checked the site, I just had to ride up the dune. Approaching the dune I checked and decided on a line and gunned the bike up. About half way up the ground suddenly just dropped away in front of me :0. No time to slow down or take alternate action. Sh1t, Weight back, open up. Did about a 1.5m dropped. :eek:

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From Middelputs, I went to Bokspits and onto Tweereviere where I pitched a tent for the night.
The most amazing thing of this area is the contrasts the is evident all around you. Gray white rock on the one side, and then red sand on the other.
And I think that is the whole wonder of the Kalahari:
It's a place of contrasts, Rocks and sand, White and red, ragged vs soft lines. This area is a open air art Gallery. Every dune is a sculpture on it's own

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I've done a lot of thinking during my time in Botswana, and I came to realize a few things:
1. The people of Botswana is very friendly and helpful.
2. Botswana is not a province of RSA, it is huge!
3. I love sand, with the bike.
4. I hate Sand, with the bakkie.
5. 2x4 Bakkie can get through some amazing places.
6. 2x4 Bakkie can get stuck quickly.
7. Suspension set-up on a bike is difficult.
8. Handling and comfort is mutually exclusive where suspension is concerned.
9. I love my bike!
10. Botswana is a country of contrasts.
11. I love SA! ;D

 

Attachments

  • Botswana Site surveys 10-09 Tracks.gdb
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Nice pics S, been planning a trip there myself! was supposed to go two months ago but got caught up in the ratrace
 
Interesting one - I like the 11 realizations you came to while in Bots
 
I love Botswana, and the people as you say are very friendly and helpful!

And goodness what good pics!
 
Thanks all! ;D
A lekker report from my side was long over due.

Ps:
I've added the tracks now.
 
Ur pics are stunning and I can share ur sentiments. I have done several of the same places.

After living here for over 11 years now, I do unfortunately have a slightly different point of view about the locals, hehe.  :lamer:
But yes, in general very leka country to live in!
 
Stunning fotos Stofstreep. Op n ligter noot. Dit lyk na n Isuzu 2.5 waarmee jy ry. Ek het 4 van hulle in n ry gehad. Ek sou ook die bike as backup gevat het as ek jy was!!!! :imaposer: :imaposer:
 
Stofstreep, what tyre pressures were you running with the bakkie in the sandy bits?
 
Stunning pics!
Be glad it was dry, a few months ago I believe it was a real mission to move about when those roads/tracks got waterlogged.
 
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