I use the KLR mainly around town with Pillion Pup. It is more or less our town bike. While chugging along Witkoppen Road in peak traffic last week (hardly ever do this) it struck me that I should put on the 14T front sprocked I have had lying around for some time. The idea to use less clutch and chug a bit slower.
I took off the cover and flattened the splined lock washer, took 1/2in drive socket and 500mm extension and with Pillion Pup standing on the foot brake gave it a heave - nothing. I rejected the notion of an impact driver, as most of the force would be along the shaft and may damage a bearing or thrust washer. I then took a hefty cold chistle and 4lb hammer. After several good whacks, just before permanent damage to the nut I tried the 500mm extension again - nothing. Got Pillion Pup off the brake and turned the nut through 180 degrees and gave it several more hefty whacks with the 4lb hammer, stopping just before permanent nut damage - nothing. Double-checked that it was not a left Hand thread, no. Tried the 500mm extension again and bingo, it let go.
But now the problems had just begun. The sprocket would not pull straight off because the frame was too close to the chain to allow this. OK I would allow the wheel to move forward so the chain would lift off the sprocket first before removal. The 12mm open jaw spanner will just not quite fit in over the axel adjusting bolt and lock-nut, so I ground the sides down a bit. This spanner will now stay with the KLR. Now, even with the wheel right forward, and chain slack, but not slack enought to come clear of the sprocket, I still had to force (slightly) the sprocket off the end of the shaft. The new smaller 14T went on easier, but still slightly forced. With the specially ground 12mm spanner it still took quite a while to wind the adjusting bolts back to their new position and measure alignment etc. Then of course it is not a lock-nut on the solid axel, but has to be tightened just right to alloe the split pin to line up and drop in. Then I had to call Pillion Pup to come and stand on the brake again while I tighten the sorocket nut with the 500mm extension. Job still not done. I had to get my multi-grips to bend over a flat on the lock-washer again. About 1h 45m.
On my DR650 and DR350 and KDX this job takes 4 minutes, I have done it dozens of times. One spanner and one pair circlip pliers, and one person. Snail adjusters are great.
In conclusion: Old sprocket noticably wavey after 10k km. Looks like it could be reversed, but not looked closely at this aspect yet. New 14T sprocket perfect for town riding and better than OK for freeway riding with pillion. I would change back again for longer, say one day in the country rides, if, and only if, someone tells me an easier way to do it.
Cheers.
I took off the cover and flattened the splined lock washer, took 1/2in drive socket and 500mm extension and with Pillion Pup standing on the foot brake gave it a heave - nothing. I rejected the notion of an impact driver, as most of the force would be along the shaft and may damage a bearing or thrust washer. I then took a hefty cold chistle and 4lb hammer. After several good whacks, just before permanent damage to the nut I tried the 500mm extension again - nothing. Got Pillion Pup off the brake and turned the nut through 180 degrees and gave it several more hefty whacks with the 4lb hammer, stopping just before permanent nut damage - nothing. Double-checked that it was not a left Hand thread, no. Tried the 500mm extension again and bingo, it let go.
But now the problems had just begun. The sprocket would not pull straight off because the frame was too close to the chain to allow this. OK I would allow the wheel to move forward so the chain would lift off the sprocket first before removal. The 12mm open jaw spanner will just not quite fit in over the axel adjusting bolt and lock-nut, so I ground the sides down a bit. This spanner will now stay with the KLR. Now, even with the wheel right forward, and chain slack, but not slack enought to come clear of the sprocket, I still had to force (slightly) the sprocket off the end of the shaft. The new smaller 14T went on easier, but still slightly forced. With the specially ground 12mm spanner it still took quite a while to wind the adjusting bolts back to their new position and measure alignment etc. Then of course it is not a lock-nut on the solid axel, but has to be tightened just right to alloe the split pin to line up and drop in. Then I had to call Pillion Pup to come and stand on the brake again while I tighten the sorocket nut with the 500mm extension. Job still not done. I had to get my multi-grips to bend over a flat on the lock-washer again. About 1h 45m.
On my DR650 and DR350 and KDX this job takes 4 minutes, I have done it dozens of times. One spanner and one pair circlip pliers, and one person. Snail adjusters are great.
In conclusion: Old sprocket noticably wavey after 10k km. Looks like it could be reversed, but not looked closely at this aspect yet. New 14T sprocket perfect for town riding and better than OK for freeway riding with pillion. I would change back again for longer, say one day in the country rides, if, and only if, someone tells me an easier way to do it.
Cheers.
