Lesotho Tour - a picture & video story

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Day 3
Barkley East to Matatiele (320km)


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From our bedroom window we can see our bikes standing in the garden under a willow tree. All green.
Yes, we both have KLR’s.

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This trip was one of the things that motivated us to buy similar adventure touring bikes. John does also
have a ZX14 and a Blade for stunt riding at home.

John had his own little adventure yesterday as he rode from Bloemfontein to meet up with me.
Fiddling with his GPS he went off the road and smashed into a rock bending the crash bar.
Nothing serious but as it now rubs against the fairing he is adamant on bending it back before we head off.

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I also still have to sort out my bike. She still runs but because the engine stutters at higher refs.
I’m worried the problem might worsen and leave me stranded in the middle of Lesotho.

John is the 1st to realize the problem lies with the air intake. Investigating we find a totally clogged filter!
I recently learnt that one has to treat a sponge filter with a special oil but being new to the procedure I
overdone it and because of the more than 800km’s of gravel road I’ve done so far the whole thing became
just one big dust magnet.

Wallace, being a professional quad racer, came to the rescue with cleaner and new filter oil. Sorted!
Using tools from the farm, a hammer and block of wood, John also manage to bend back the crash bar.
He recently fitted GPS but there seems to be a problem with the electrical connections. Long last the bikes
are sorted.

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Wallace treated us to a well made breakfast, see my dad on the left.

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Thanks to Wallace, a hug to my dad and we’re off.

A quick visit to see a unusual barn in the cavity of a natural rock overhang and we’re off again.

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At Rhodes we decide to go see the location of the Tiffendale Ski Resort. This takes up a lot of time but the
ride is definitely worth it.

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John positioned the ol KLR right in the stream to make for dramatic effect.

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From here we are starting to be challenged by steep climbs and descents one after the other. Nothing we can’t
handle but the road surface is covered in millions of small ball bearing like stones that makes sudden deceleration
impossible. Inevitably I am caught out by a sharp turn with a camber to the wrong side and end up skidding off
the road, planting the KLR between some boulders. I come off lightly with only my confidence dented.

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Stopping to appreciate the romance of this farm that is nestled between river and mountain, John comments
that he won't mind doing hard labor if he could work on this farm.

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The area is alive with water flowing all around.

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Right on top of the Naude's Nek Pass we came upon a 5 Star hotel. The luxury is unreal, the building
beautifully built. They have to run of a generator but the whole system is self sustainable, given you put in
some diesel of course.

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Over the Naudesnek Pass, what a stunner of a view.

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Riding the foothills down the other side, countless tiny purple flowers decorate the valley.

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It is here where we meet the Fourie family, also on a trip of discovery.

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Time is not on our side and we make speed on bigger roads towards Matatiele. We thought we’d ride all the
way to Molumong in Lesotho today but given the sun is already setting again I can only laugh at my optimism.
We will have to make an unscheduled stop and stay over in Matatiele.

Just outside of Matatiele, as we stop to take a picture of a rainbow and use John’s GPS to find the contact details
of local B&B’s. Technology really make our world small, within two phone calls I arranged beds for the night.

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While hanging around by the roadside I noticed a bike approaching. With no shame I flag the rider down and
to our delight we cross paths with a fellow adventurer. Bosman Spaarwater from Gauteng on his Dakar on his
way to Cape Town!

Bosman’s Dakkie appears to be groaning under the weight of all his luggage. He explains that he’s got his full
diving suit on board as he wants to test the waters once in Cape Town.

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The internet shop, video shop and fast food restaurant combo, Fernando’s, made delicious pizzas for dinner.

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Having full stomachs we retired to our accommodation for the night. Right in the centre of town the Resthaven
B&B provided hot showers and comfortable beds. The owner also has a job with a local security company.
As he knows Lesotho very well I use the opportunity to enquire about our route for the next day.

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Here is the video corresponding to Day 3.








 
One fine report Michiel. You certainly have movie making talent!
Damn glad you did not connect a car going round the corners one handed.
 
Day 4
Matatiele to Molumong (339km)


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For breakfast we have what was left of the Fernando's pizza from last night. Having stocked up with food & drink
at the local Shoprite we head for the Qacha’s Nek Border Post.

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Some quick paperwork and for a minimal fee we are finally in the Mountain Kingdom!
Check out the aids awareness note.

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All along the road, which is still tarred, people stand seemingly with no other task than to look at everything
that comes past. I can’t help wondering if they really have nothing better to do. This is a weird place.
Nobody seems to be in a hurry to do anything. Here they still plough with oxen.

Riding along John uses every opportunity to entertain the onlookers with a splendid display of wheelies.
He recently started training to be a stunt riding artist and just can’t get enough. I am worried though that
this sort of risk taking could turn nasty. Following him I don’t concentrate on the map in front of me.
He has GPS. Eventually we realize we’re on the wrong road. While popping a wheelie he missed a turn.
Backtracking, we decide to play it safe and top up with fuel at the petrol station we passed just after
crossing the border. This mistake ended up costing an hour of the day but at least the bikes are filled to the brim.

Riding now on dirt the B45 road winds along the Tsoelike river with villages dotting the slopes. This road is
a big artery into this part of Lesotho and big vehicles, like a truck with a Caterpillar on the back, still use it.
All be it at a very slow pace.

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Reaching Seshlabathebe or some place nearby we find some petrol pumps but quickly realize these haven’t
pumped fuel of any sort in a long time.

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From here we start to slowly climb up towards the bigger mountains crossing the streams that flow from their flanks.

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By early afternoon we are in what must be the most beautiful part of Lesotho, crossing the Matebeng Pass we
are in exceptionally good spirit. Thunderstorms rolling in doesn’t even dampen the spirit!

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From where we came...

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Where we are going...

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John climbing higher up for an areal shot.

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Navigating the decent on the other side in the rain makes for some interesting riding.
All along the road are water crossings with streams flowing across pebble bed.

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Approaching Sehong Hong we are challenged for the 1st time with some serious steep and rocky road.
At one of the streams John flags me down. We just passed a taxi loaded to the roof and he would like
to see it navigate the rough terrain through the stream and up the embankment. The taxi don’t seem to
be in a hurry and just cruise at a donkey’s pace but it was worth the wait. Calmly as if an everyday event
it scales the embankment with front wheels lifting off the ground, smoke bellowing from the rear!

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Donkies on their way home after having done some shopping.

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Farther down the road one can see attempts of upgrading the road. Big earth moving has scarred the side of
the mountain. This must be where the truck is heading… would be fun to see it navigate that stream! At this
point we pass a 4x4 with what must be some tourists. A elderly man with presumably his wife. They are going
in the opposite direction. We don’t stop to chat but as he passes me he shouts from an open window: “good luck!”
He must recon we will have trouble riding where he just drove…

A couple of k’s on all is revealed. A steep climb on a narrow road with rock, dongas and a near sheer drop
to the bottom of the valley.

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As we crest the top of this climb John loses momentum and topple over. Funny how quick the spectators gather.
Nobody hurt and no damage done we hand out some of those Chappies and Nikkerballs I bought in Klipplaat and plough on.

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By now we are on top of the mountains and here the road evens out. Some fast riding to make up time but
eventually we are on smaller roads again.

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This place is just so picturesque. I noticed a beautiful scene and want to turn around to take a picture but for
no reason end up toppling over as well. John recons we’re tired and don’t concentrate well enough anymore.
That may just as well be the case.

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The sun sitting low again John is getting worried we won’t make our destination before nightfall.

How far still? I have been in Molumong before and will recognize the road but it still evades us.
Just one more hill but by the time we get to the top another steep valley unveils.

As the sun leaves the day and night fall we finally reach the Backpacker’s Lodge in Molumong.
To my surprise and great delight an old acquaintance, Tom, is also here. Tom used to be the care
taker but has since moved on and is working at the University in Maseru. He explains that it is a
pure co-incidence that we see each other again because he is also just staying for the night passing
through. Worn-out and desperately tired I brave a cold shower and after playing around with our
cameras we settle in for a deep sleep.

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Here are the videos corresponding to Day 4. I had to split it up because Photobucket only allow 5min at a time.







 
:thumleft:

excellent, entertaining and enjoyable RR

:thumleft:
 
if this continuous like this it must go to hall off fame!!!!

best report i have read yet
 
Day 5
Molumong to Hilton, PMB (231km)


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Molumong is a small village not too far from Mokhotlong. The Backpackers Lodge used to be a trading post
belonging to some Scottish guy but that was a long time ago. A travel magazine would refer to the accommodation
as rustic, that basically just mean single beds, water from a stream, no electricity and everything that comes with
a lack of such privilege. There is though some atmosphere of calm and timelessness here. The people are friendly
and kind as well. You can buy what amounts to a fully stuffed bankie for only R10!

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More maintenance to be done before we head off.

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The village as seen from the road to Mokhotlong.

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Today we ride down Sani Pass and all the way to Hilton near Pietermaritzburg where we will be staying with my aunt.
Having had a exhausting ride the day before John is the last to get out of bed but in good time the wheels are rolling again.

From Molumong it is just a couple of km’s to Mokhotlong where we should be able to find petrol. After filling up at the
Qacha’s Nek Border Post yesterday we haven’t had another opportunity. With an 400km (easy ride) range on the KLR
we could try to make for Himeville just under the Sani Pass but decide to visit the town anyway.

Although I’ve been in Mokhotlong before I had no luck finding a garage with petrol but as we explore deeper into the
town we do find a legitimate station. It is run by a Chinese guy. Funny how they’ve infiltrated even this, what must be
to them, a desolate and alienating place. They also sell cooking gas. All along little stalls selling food, clothes and other
merchandise hug the road, donkeys strolling past.

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The road from Mokhotlong to Sani is a pleasure to ride.

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We don’t have a long way to go today and take things easy stopping at what must be a landmark waterfall to take
some pictures. With three shepherds approaching us we use the opportunity to sample some local portraits.

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After having climbed to the very top of the mountains passing nearby Thabana–Ntlenyana, the highest point in
Southern Africa, we descend through long open valleys reaching Sani Pass Border Post in no time.

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The usual picture taking at the Sani sign precedes our descend. I am surprised by how washed-away the pass
has become in the last 2 years. Warily we negotiate steep downhill on lose rock. The pass separates the Lesotho
border post from the South African one.

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We found this guy taking a rest about half way up Sani Pass. Probably to give the poor bike a chance to cool down as well.

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As we make fast progress, now within South African territory, one can  clearly see the road works in preparation for the
tarring of the pass. I recon though it will take a good few years before they get to the difficult bit.

I’ve always hated riding in someone else’s dust and whilst John and I keep a good riding distance one can’t plan for
other vehicles. As my luck would have it a police van has caught up with us, having already passed John, throwing
up a moerse amount of dust! Not wanting to be enveloped I speed up and end up being chased at over 120km/h for
the last 15km’s of dirt.

Making a stop to regroup at the intersection with our 1st tarmac on SA soil I am met by a very moody John.
Coming down Sani he smashed into another rock, again bending the crash bar right close to the fairing.
Nothing serious I’m thinking but he’s not a happy bunny… Climbing off he neglects to put the bike in gear
and as it rolls forward and off the side stand I grab it just in time… With this I also notice the front wheel is flat…
Now John is REALLY not a happy bunny!

While I warm a canister tire-fix against my body we engage in some motivational talk.

I’ve always had satisfactory results from tire-fix but firmly believe in warming it up first. In fact, they say one
must fix the tube properly once in the nearest town but my old DR500S have been running on such fix on
both tires for years.

Tire-fixed we have an uneventful ride on tar all the way reaching my aunt’s in Hilton by midday. The idea was
to have a sort of a chill out rest day in the middle of the trip. After unloading the bikes and having lunch with
my aunt and her husband (Oom Tony and Tannie Annalé) we set about trying to bend the crash bar back.

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I felt that, since the metal isn’t actually touching the fairing plastics having only bent 1cm inwards,
it’s unnecessary to make an issue of it and rather not scratch where it’s not itching. John felt the bike
didn’t look like that and he won’t have it any other way…

With the exception of being invited to a 3hour Christmas dinner the rest of the day until midnight was
spent stripping the bike, bending, fitting, bending, fitting, bending, now it doesn’t fit the bolts, bending,
it still doesn’t fit, more bending and so on…

We have much to thank them, while Oom Tony helped with the bike providing tools and all, Tannie Annale
washed all our dirty clothes. Being a keen photographer she also burned to disc our images and video
captured so far thus allowing us to free up space on the memory cards for the 2nd part of the trip.

Here are the videos corresponding to Day 5




 
Great RR and fantastic photos as always, Michiel.  Your RR is a pleasure to read.  Well done and thank you.
 
Great work Michiel.........I've been on the road with you for 5 days now..........can't wait to see what you've got dished up for us tomorrow. :thumleft:
 
Operator said:
Great work Michiel.........I've been on the road with you for 5 days now..........can't wait to see what you've got dished up for us tomorrow. :thumleft:

+1 words escape me...
 
Dit is 'n baie lekker lees so vêr en baie mooi fotos!  Excellent RR!
 
Very nice report man, iv'e stayed in that RUSTIC backpackers place before, it was -10 degrees, water pipes froze, no electricity so we had one big fire with lots of Sherry , oh and i camped outside so i could get my money's worth out of the tent i bought. Lovely place Lesotho.
 
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