Day 4 - Part 1
Today was the big day! Riding the Doodsakker has been on my biking bucket list since I read MetalJockey's Angola Report so many years ago. After doing Van Zyl's that was the one big thing I still wanted to do in Southern Africa. We did our prep work before the trip, ensuring that we'd take enough fuel to last from Ruacana to Tombua. We double-checked the tide time-tables. Last but not least, I had full faith in my riding partner and in our combined ability to take care of and handle whatever the day can throw at us. All that was left now was to do it.
Low-tide was gojng to be at 8:30, and we needed to be at the southern entrance of the Doodsakker at 07:30. Being there one hour before absolute low gives you the maximum window to make a successful pass. The tide is obviously the major factor, but there were two more. The first is navigation, especially if you do South to North, as there are two false routes you can take. This is a problem because it means wasted fuel and the possibility of getting stuck in a sand tongue. The second issue is the two major rocky sections that lies in the Northern part of the Doodsakker. The recommended way is going North to South, the rocks are about 10 km's in, so if they prove to be impassable on the day you turn around without issue. If you're coming from the south, as we were, then you're a little bit screwed, because you would have to either turn around or have a 12 hour wait on the dune slopes. No use worrying about the unknowns, we were prepared to take things as it come.
Anyhow, we got up bright and early at 5'ish, seeing as we were still 40 km away from the southern entrance of the Doodsakker. As was becoming customary, we broke camp and Heiko sorted us out with coffee. Nuno also woke up in the camp next door and ambled over. Because Nuno is such an awesome guy we kind of lost track of how long we were talking for and before we knew it, it was 7 'o clock and we had to get a serious move one! We were a bit unsure of how the beach would ride. I did a lot of beach riding growing up in Swakop, and I knew there it was lekker, with the sand being quite hard if you stay close to the waterline. I am delighted to report that it is no different in Angola. It's not many rides that start of like this:
Just look at how light the bikes were treading on the sand:
I am not sure how it would be with a heavier (990 / 1200 class) bike. I do know that on the 500 that first section of beach was an absolute joyride. At this point we didn't have the 20L's fuel cans in the back anymore, so they were handling like an absolute dream. Cracking open the throttle, front wheel lifting over every little bump on the beach, fresh sea breeze in your helmet, sun rising over the horizon contributed to this being one of those rides where you laugh like an idiot in your helmet with the sheer joy of living and riding.
We reached the entrance to the Doodsakker in no time at all and we quickly stopped to get our bearings and also to see exactly where the sand tongues were on my GPS. And like that we set off. It felt almost surreal to be riding the fabled and often feared Doodsakker. If you get the tides right you mostly have plenty of space
Not long before we hit the GPS point for the first sandbar. On the pic below you can see how difficult it would be to judge if you were not on the lookout for it - if you carry on straight you're on the sandbar, you need to go right to the dunes:
It didn't take us long to realise that there was little reason for us to stick to the beach on the 500's. Petrol situation was looking great, so we decided to ride up the dunes a bit. On this dune you can easily the sandbar I referenced earlier. The pic doesn’t give good height reference, but this was a massive dune, with the Doodsakker way down below.
Another dune pic:
A bit further on and you can see another sandbar in the distance:
We hit some rocky bits:
Even had time for a nice photo opportunity
I guess with all our playing we didn't keep a 100% tab on the time, but as it turns out it was now past absolute low and the tide was beginning to push up, nothing serious but also no reason to tempt fate and dally too long. I was thinking that we'll have to start getting a hurry-up in certain sections:
I told Heiko this and I could see he didn't share my concern, he reckoned we still had more than enough time. Who was I to argue? We only live once, might as well have some fun despite the risk.
My words weren't even cold when the Doodsakker started opening up nicely. We were still up and down the dunes, the bikes were so willing and combined with the nice firm surface dunes typically have in the morning it was so much fun zig-zagging up and down.
We carried on a couple of km's past the point where the above photo was taken. I was so taken by the riding that I realised with a bit of a shock that we were out of the Doodsakker. Part of me was absolutely elated that I managed to do this and in doing so made a big dream of mine reality. This may sound weird, but the other part of me was a bit disappointed in that after all the horror stories and ride reports full of drama, it was just so easy. Kind of felt that a bit of a prize was taken away from me. I know I should be thankful that it was so easy, but I was really looking forward to measuring myself against the fabled Doodsakker. I was there, the challenge just never came. That said - I can absolutely see how one misstep or mechanical issue can quickly escelate and put you in a very tough position.
The stars of the show: