Namibia - Ruacana to Epupa Falls via Damaraland and Kunene - My first RR
- Thread starter Damaraland
- Start date
Gasman
Pack Dog
subscribed :thumleft:
Damaraland
Race Dog
Day 3 - 18 December (318km - Gravel)
Ruacana - Opuwo: 140
Opuwo - Epupa: 178
Overnight: Epupa Camp
Righto, so day 2 saw the 3 mousecateers over-nighting at Hippo Pools campsite in Ruacana. We spent the morning seeing the sights and then we were off again, going back on our tracks to Opuwo. I really wanted to do the trial going along the river to Epupa, but was advised against it by a couple of grizzly characters. I implicitly trust anyone with a beard driving an old Landcruiser - must be a Namibian thing - so it was the long way round for us. Anyways, it was funny how good the horrible road from the day before felt today. Really makes a difference when you're feeling fresh and have a bike underneath you that you trust. I was really giving it the beans - didn't want to take any chances with the sidestand so I don't have a lot of pics handy, but I'll share what we took.
We got to Opuwo without any major mishaps, and filled up the bikes and Jerry cans. Note that there is no fuel available in Epupa so you need to take enough for the return journey to Opuwo (360km's give or take). Now for the hilarious part. My two cousins are Freddie and Ryno van der Merwe, right. So at the service station this dodgy berk walks up to us and tunes us he's a trained helicopter pilot AND a priest. For good measure then proceeds to offer me N$10 for my fiancée (so she could have the honor of becoming his second wife). I reckon OK, a deal's a deal and ask him for his name, he replies that he is Lungu van der Merwe. Seeeee-riiiiii-aaaaaas. I verified this by asking him for his ID - will be a long time before my cousins live this down.
The joy of discovering a long lost relative:
We then set off to the local Supermarket (really nice place, the butchery is especially awesome - fresh beef cold beer and ice!) to resupply. We left Opuwo and immediately ran into Namibia's finest at the roadblock. Now I only have a learners license, which should not be a problem. In Namibia it's valid for 18 months and you can travel freely on the highways. Anyways this character then wanted to fine me because I didn't have a pillion on board with a license. After about 5 minutes I dropped the attitude and did my best to appear remorseful and apologetic. Butter could not melt, I even called him Sargeant. This did the trick and we were let go. Lesson learned. Arguing with African officialdom is like wrestling with a pig in the mud - after a while you realise the pig enjoys it.
The gravel road was OK, lots of rocks in the road and lots of cattle, nothing too bad as long as you kept your eyes open. I was about halfway there when it started to rain, and not drip-drip, no, it was like some giant emptying buckets on your head. Remember I'm from Swakopmund in the Namib desert, rain is something I see on National Geographic or Discovery channel. Long story short I don't remember too much about this part of the road. Just wanted to keep the bike upright and get to Epupa. We all arrived safely and once again I was shattered - just amazing how draining it is when you ride and you are focused 100% on not wiping out. I guess with experience will come a more relaxed style.
That said, you can be tired, dirty, cold and wet, it's amazing how much better a fire lets you feel. Ten minutes and we were all sound as a pound! The Germans here have a nice word for a fire, they call it a Bush Kino, which translates to Bush Cinema, and it's true.
Of course it was still raining lekker, so the two bros had to pitch their tents in the rain. Let me tell you there were some choice words thrown about!
It carried on raining, fortunately BMW's are water resistant and / or their owners to dense to remember to bring their covers.
Once it stopped raining we had a lovely view of the kunene. At this stage we were just chilling and soaking it in - awed by the beauty and peace a motorcycle and a sense of adventure can bring you. Life is good.
We concluded the evening with a wonderful braai and beers. Seeing as we were the only campers around we said goodbye to the evening with a nice beer buzz and Pink Floyd, courtesy of my ipod and little shox speaker. The location, music and ambiance made for an almost spiritual experience. We slept like babies...and oh boy as it turns out we needed all the rest we could get...more on that tomorrow
On the practical side of things, Epupa Camp has running warm and cold water, flush toilets and showers. Nice place, awesome view, just forget about eating there (or anywhere else at Epupa, cheapest meal is about N$250).
Ruacana - Opuwo: 140
Opuwo - Epupa: 178
Overnight: Epupa Camp
Righto, so day 2 saw the 3 mousecateers over-nighting at Hippo Pools campsite in Ruacana. We spent the morning seeing the sights and then we were off again, going back on our tracks to Opuwo. I really wanted to do the trial going along the river to Epupa, but was advised against it by a couple of grizzly characters. I implicitly trust anyone with a beard driving an old Landcruiser - must be a Namibian thing - so it was the long way round for us. Anyways, it was funny how good the horrible road from the day before felt today. Really makes a difference when you're feeling fresh and have a bike underneath you that you trust. I was really giving it the beans - didn't want to take any chances with the sidestand so I don't have a lot of pics handy, but I'll share what we took.
We got to Opuwo without any major mishaps, and filled up the bikes and Jerry cans. Note that there is no fuel available in Epupa so you need to take enough for the return journey to Opuwo (360km's give or take). Now for the hilarious part. My two cousins are Freddie and Ryno van der Merwe, right. So at the service station this dodgy berk walks up to us and tunes us he's a trained helicopter pilot AND a priest. For good measure then proceeds to offer me N$10 for my fiancée (so she could have the honor of becoming his second wife). I reckon OK, a deal's a deal and ask him for his name, he replies that he is Lungu van der Merwe. Seeeee-riiiiii-aaaaaas. I verified this by asking him for his ID - will be a long time before my cousins live this down.
The joy of discovering a long lost relative:
We then set off to the local Supermarket (really nice place, the butchery is especially awesome - fresh beef cold beer and ice!) to resupply. We left Opuwo and immediately ran into Namibia's finest at the roadblock. Now I only have a learners license, which should not be a problem. In Namibia it's valid for 18 months and you can travel freely on the highways. Anyways this character then wanted to fine me because I didn't have a pillion on board with a license. After about 5 minutes I dropped the attitude and did my best to appear remorseful and apologetic. Butter could not melt, I even called him Sargeant. This did the trick and we were let go. Lesson learned. Arguing with African officialdom is like wrestling with a pig in the mud - after a while you realise the pig enjoys it.
The gravel road was OK, lots of rocks in the road and lots of cattle, nothing too bad as long as you kept your eyes open. I was about halfway there when it started to rain, and not drip-drip, no, it was like some giant emptying buckets on your head. Remember I'm from Swakopmund in the Namib desert, rain is something I see on National Geographic or Discovery channel. Long story short I don't remember too much about this part of the road. Just wanted to keep the bike upright and get to Epupa. We all arrived safely and once again I was shattered - just amazing how draining it is when you ride and you are focused 100% on not wiping out. I guess with experience will come a more relaxed style.
That said, you can be tired, dirty, cold and wet, it's amazing how much better a fire lets you feel. Ten minutes and we were all sound as a pound! The Germans here have a nice word for a fire, they call it a Bush Kino, which translates to Bush Cinema, and it's true.
Of course it was still raining lekker, so the two bros had to pitch their tents in the rain. Let me tell you there were some choice words thrown about!
It carried on raining, fortunately BMW's are water resistant and / or their owners to dense to remember to bring their covers.
Once it stopped raining we had a lovely view of the kunene. At this stage we were just chilling and soaking it in - awed by the beauty and peace a motorcycle and a sense of adventure can bring you. Life is good.
We concluded the evening with a wonderful braai and beers. Seeing as we were the only campers around we said goodbye to the evening with a nice beer buzz and Pink Floyd, courtesy of my ipod and little shox speaker. The location, music and ambiance made for an almost spiritual experience. We slept like babies...and oh boy as it turns out we needed all the rest we could get...more on that tomorrow
On the practical side of things, Epupa Camp has running warm and cold water, flush toilets and showers. Nice place, awesome view, just forget about eating there (or anywhere else at Epupa, cheapest meal is about N$250).
Damaraland
Race Dog
Dis 'n jammerte - as man so moeg gery is gee dit jou sommer 'n goeie gevoel om te gesels met iemand wat dieselfde doen. Jy ken mekaar nie maar tog op daai oomblik is daai samesyn kosbaar!Road Hog said:
Damaraland
Race Dog
Deal :thumleft:Wheelman said:"This was taken about 30km before Uis, with the Brandberg in the background. And if I ever hear another one you fancy Souff Effricans referring to it as the fire mountain I will kick you in the goons"
We promise.... :imaposer: just keep posting. Very nice RR thank you
Damaraland
Race Dog
Haha ChinaPete ons is groot rugbymanne, maar is nou maar liewer vir bier en tjops as vir energade so daai loopbaan was nie vir ons nie!ChinaPete said:
Great RR :thumleft:
Damaraland
Race Dog
Ouman said:
Dit sal net 'n plesier wees Ouman! Daar's iets in die grond en die lug en die water hier wat in jou binneste gaan sit. As ek in die buiteland is en ek kom terug is dit altyd met 'n knop in die keel. Namibia is dalk nie lief vir my nie, maar ek is baie lief vir haar!
Epupa falls is n spesiale plek.
Jou van der Merwe "familielid" laat my dink aan n kompaniebevelvoerder wat ek gehad het. Tom Ferreira.
Hy het het n Ovambo seun gered uit n kraal wat heeltemal plat geskiet was deur SWAPO.
Hy het hom toe grootgemaak in Ondangwa tussen al die 101 Bataljon troepe.
Sy naam was Norrefok Ferreira!!!!!!!!!! Ek het dit in sy ID boek gesien. :deal:
Baie baie skerp soldaat geword en laaste wat ek van hom gehoor het was hy by n sekuriteirsmaatskappy
in Windhoek.
Tom Ferreira sy "Pa" is in Afganistan by die UN as soldaat.
Sorry vir die highjack KW.
Jou van der Merwe "familielid" laat my dink aan n kompaniebevelvoerder wat ek gehad het. Tom Ferreira.
Hy het het n Ovambo seun gered uit n kraal wat heeltemal plat geskiet was deur SWAPO.
Hy het hom toe grootgemaak in Ondangwa tussen al die 101 Bataljon troepe.
Sy naam was Norrefok Ferreira!!!!!!!!!! Ek het dit in sy ID boek gesien. :deal:
Baie baie skerp soldaat geword en laaste wat ek van hom gehoor het was hy by n sekuriteirsmaatskappy
in Windhoek.
Tom Ferreira sy "Pa" is in Afganistan by die UN as soldaat.
Sorry vir die highjack KW.
Damaraland
Race Dog
Day 4 - 19 December (325km - Gravel)
Epupa - Opuwo: 178
Opuwo - Sesfontein: 147
Booking: Ongongo Camp Site at Sesfontein
Slept over at Camp Aussicht
The next morning we woke up bright and early to go check out Epupa falls. The usual way is to go up this hill (you'll know when you get there) and pay N$50 for the privilege of a birds eye view. The view is OK-ish, but nothing special in my opinion. What you need to do is go through the little stream and over the rocks just to the left of the main lodge.
Here is a view from the N$50 pp hill
And here is the free view, only cost is getting your feet a bit wet
This is a beautiful view and awe-inspiring experience, what with all the noise and mist. Sometimes you just feel so little when compared to the power of nature, you also realise just how insignificant we are in the big scheme of things - that the falls was there long before you and will still be there long after you're gone.
Then it started drizzling again and we realised we had to get out of there. Yesterday was bad enough in the rain, we need to try and get out before the roads were completely soaked. And that was the beginning of one of the best days I never want to have again. Maybe it's a bit like how you graybeards feel about the army? Not that a bit of rain will ever compare to your sacrifices! It really started pissing down now, and we hit our first little river crossing. Now keep in mind that on the road between Epupa and Opuwo there is a little river crossing about every 5 - km's, I kid you not. Anyway, here is us feeling very Long Way Round after our first crossing:
That triumphant feeling was soon to disappear. Once again it was just a mission keeping the bike upright. It's a really funny kind of inconsistent mud that forms on the roads there. You have this slick layer (slick as in it's even slippery when you walk on it) and below it a slightly more hard and less slippery layer. This photo shows it a bit:
Now the going was getting tough. We were getting drenched from head to toe, visors misting up and if you open the visors the rain hits you so hard that it hurts your eyes. And the river crossings were getting worse. We couldn't risk just charging in with the bikes so we had to try wade through to gauge the depth. This meant getting (what felt like litres) of water in your boots and we were now really drenched from head to toe. The flow was so strong that even walking arm in arm we almost got washed away. So that is that, we will now have to wait for the waterlevel to drop...
...Which it did after about an hour. It's funny there were a couple of big 4x4's also waiting to cross, and these people just looked at us with with this weird mixture of what seemed like schadenfreude and pity. What do some people have against bikers. I don't understand this. This just made my resolve stronger. Fuck them and fuck their cages and fuck the rain, I will pass through. I apologise for the language but this was my state of mind. The water then dropped slightly and we could now push the bikes through, two pushing at a time. We had to press because the locals brought news of more rain higher up so we knew the rivers were going to rise.
Had to get my little soft-roader Kia through. There was this oom in his Cruiser who told me "Moenie woggie nie bgoeg, as jy vassit kom haal ek jou uit". There is still some good people left on this earth, and they somehow always appear in a time of need. Maybe that's how guardian angels work?
Gradually things started looking up, it was still raining but we managed to be able to ride the bikes through the water without mishap.
We arrived in Opuwo, never thought I would be so happy to see that place. It was now about 18:00 and it took us about 8 hours to do 180km. 8 Hours of being cold, wet, tired and frustrated. Then we made a big mistake. Instead of taking our medicine and and just staying over in Opuwo we decided to try and stick to our schedule and make it to Sesfontein. In our defence it looked like it was clearing up, but never try and judge the weather of a place you've never been to. Lesson learned.
Anyway we headed of South and the going was good for a while but then all hell broke loose. It started raining again and to make things worse there was this funny low mist hanging about. My cousins tells me I'm a pissy, but I'm sure I was developing 1st level hypothermia at this stage. I realised I was in trouble when I heard my phone ringing. a phone that was in a car about 20km's behind me. I pulled off under a tree, and just the act of not riding made me warmer again. My cousins caught up to me and we all sat under the tree sheltering from the rain, waiting for the car, feeling pretty sorry for ourselves. a Couple of kids came over to inspect and we asked them if there's a place to stay. "Ja meneer", they said, "net om die draai". We made a swift and unanimous decision there and then that even if this place cost thousands of dollars per night we will sleep there.
The lodge was about 10km off the main road on a rocky, technical mountain type road. I dropped the bike here, my fingers were just to cold to do the whole clutch and brake thing. We finally got there, the place was called Camp Aussicht and it is run by a German gentleman called Marius Steiner. He is a good man. He gave us rooms for N$150 p/p and Jagermeister. It's a very small and basic place so we had to sort ourselves out with dinner. Now let me tell you, no meal prepared by a 5 star chef could taste better than the scrambled eggs, bacon and Bully Beef we made on the cadac that night. Dessert was a chocolate and orange juice.
It was bliss sleeping in a warm bed with a roof overhead. For the first time in a long time I thanked the Big Man for watching over me. It carried on raining through the night...my heart was in my stomach, surely we couldn't have another day like today? We could only hope tomorrow would go better....
Epupa - Opuwo: 178
Opuwo - Sesfontein: 147
Booking: Ongongo Camp Site at Sesfontein
Slept over at Camp Aussicht
The next morning we woke up bright and early to go check out Epupa falls. The usual way is to go up this hill (you'll know when you get there) and pay N$50 for the privilege of a birds eye view. The view is OK-ish, but nothing special in my opinion. What you need to do is go through the little stream and over the rocks just to the left of the main lodge.
Here is a view from the N$50 pp hill
And here is the free view, only cost is getting your feet a bit wet
This is a beautiful view and awe-inspiring experience, what with all the noise and mist. Sometimes you just feel so little when compared to the power of nature, you also realise just how insignificant we are in the big scheme of things - that the falls was there long before you and will still be there long after you're gone.
Then it started drizzling again and we realised we had to get out of there. Yesterday was bad enough in the rain, we need to try and get out before the roads were completely soaked. And that was the beginning of one of the best days I never want to have again. Maybe it's a bit like how you graybeards feel about the army? Not that a bit of rain will ever compare to your sacrifices! It really started pissing down now, and we hit our first little river crossing. Now keep in mind that on the road between Epupa and Opuwo there is a little river crossing about every 5 - km's, I kid you not. Anyway, here is us feeling very Long Way Round after our first crossing:
That triumphant feeling was soon to disappear. Once again it was just a mission keeping the bike upright. It's a really funny kind of inconsistent mud that forms on the roads there. You have this slick layer (slick as in it's even slippery when you walk on it) and below it a slightly more hard and less slippery layer. This photo shows it a bit:
Now the going was getting tough. We were getting drenched from head to toe, visors misting up and if you open the visors the rain hits you so hard that it hurts your eyes. And the river crossings were getting worse. We couldn't risk just charging in with the bikes so we had to try wade through to gauge the depth. This meant getting (what felt like litres) of water in your boots and we were now really drenched from head to toe. The flow was so strong that even walking arm in arm we almost got washed away. So that is that, we will now have to wait for the waterlevel to drop...
...Which it did after about an hour. It's funny there were a couple of big 4x4's also waiting to cross, and these people just looked at us with with this weird mixture of what seemed like schadenfreude and pity. What do some people have against bikers. I don't understand this. This just made my resolve stronger. Fuck them and fuck their cages and fuck the rain, I will pass through. I apologise for the language but this was my state of mind. The water then dropped slightly and we could now push the bikes through, two pushing at a time. We had to press because the locals brought news of more rain higher up so we knew the rivers were going to rise.
Had to get my little soft-roader Kia through. There was this oom in his Cruiser who told me "Moenie woggie nie bgoeg, as jy vassit kom haal ek jou uit". There is still some good people left on this earth, and they somehow always appear in a time of need. Maybe that's how guardian angels work?
Gradually things started looking up, it was still raining but we managed to be able to ride the bikes through the water without mishap.
We arrived in Opuwo, never thought I would be so happy to see that place. It was now about 18:00 and it took us about 8 hours to do 180km. 8 Hours of being cold, wet, tired and frustrated. Then we made a big mistake. Instead of taking our medicine and and just staying over in Opuwo we decided to try and stick to our schedule and make it to Sesfontein. In our defence it looked like it was clearing up, but never try and judge the weather of a place you've never been to. Lesson learned.
Anyway we headed of South and the going was good for a while but then all hell broke loose. It started raining again and to make things worse there was this funny low mist hanging about. My cousins tells me I'm a pissy, but I'm sure I was developing 1st level hypothermia at this stage. I realised I was in trouble when I heard my phone ringing. a phone that was in a car about 20km's behind me. I pulled off under a tree, and just the act of not riding made me warmer again. My cousins caught up to me and we all sat under the tree sheltering from the rain, waiting for the car, feeling pretty sorry for ourselves. a Couple of kids came over to inspect and we asked them if there's a place to stay. "Ja meneer", they said, "net om die draai". We made a swift and unanimous decision there and then that even if this place cost thousands of dollars per night we will sleep there.
The lodge was about 10km off the main road on a rocky, technical mountain type road. I dropped the bike here, my fingers were just to cold to do the whole clutch and brake thing. We finally got there, the place was called Camp Aussicht and it is run by a German gentleman called Marius Steiner. He is a good man. He gave us rooms for N$150 p/p and Jagermeister. It's a very small and basic place so we had to sort ourselves out with dinner. Now let me tell you, no meal prepared by a 5 star chef could taste better than the scrambled eggs, bacon and Bully Beef we made on the cadac that night. Dessert was a chocolate and orange juice.
It was bliss sleeping in a warm bed with a roof overhead. For the first time in a long time I thanked the Big Man for watching over me. It carried on raining through the night...my heart was in my stomach, surely we couldn't have another day like today? We could only hope tomorrow would go better....
weskus
Race Dog
Kaokoland(naas Angola) is seker die mees spesiale plek waar ek nog getoer het en is verseker weer op my lys vir die toekoms. Sien uit na die res van die RR..
Damaraland
Race Dog
Om Angola te doen is een van my drome, en ek haal my hoed af vir julle manne wat dit al aangepak het. Ek het op advrider 'n RR gelees wat my hoendervleis gegee het, Angola - It's not like they said was die naam dink ek.weskus said:
Wheelman
Race Dog
I'm enjoying this immensely.... Thanks :thumleft:. Adventure always starts with a plan or schedule going haywire.....but when you're in it you gotta do what you gotta do! Lots of memories and stories for the future. :biggrin: :thumleft:
Laban
Race Dog
ChinaPete said:
Hierdie manne was skrumskakels gewees, jy wil nie die voorrye sien nie!! :mwink:
Lekker een kw!! :thumleft:
Pietcoke
Race Dog
- Joined
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Ek kan my indink waardeer julle moes gaan, maar daai water in die woestyn is darem net so spesiaal.
Kan nie wag vir die res.
Kan nie wag vir die res.
Damaraland
Race Dog
Kan mos net lekker wees, my e-mail is op my profile, kontak my asb. dan maak ons 'n plan!wimpie said:
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knaterwater said:
Ja ons moet almal bymekaar kry en n Nambash reel.
Talk is cheap....................ons wag geduldig!!! :deal: :mwink:Road Hog said:
